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Image 1 looks like an S-27 (UHF [sic] receiver)... it used a 955 for the front end... there's a picture of one in the Manhattan Project images... think it was for monitoring the radar-altmeter device that produced the air burst. Tom - W?EAJ

https://shopgoodwill.com/item/196554053 -- Justin B. KI5GKD

Got the radio back in case and have noticed the frequency is different from rx to tx on LSB and USB. It's. 00 on RX and .97 on TX. I cant think what would fx this behavior. I have a freq counter on pin 11 on the socket. I can correct this with the RIT on. What did I miss? C

HAM techs Attached are pictures of Hallicrafter rigs from 1940-1950. May have been used on ships, land bases, recreationally or other. They are at an estate where the spouse of the op wants all ham radio gear gone. I took a Hammarlund HQ110A and HQ170 in pretty good cosmetic internal shape, but until I replace the 2 cond powers cords with 3 conductor, I have no plans of anything more than cleaning. The pictured gear is very heavy so it remains in NJ....MY QTH is 4 miles south of Nashua, NH. The single pic is of a S36 or S27 Ultra High Frequency Communication Radio Receiver...what lil I gathered from many searches yielded a 60lb recvr capable of vhf at 28-143 or 36-165 or 125-240 and maybe 108-137 air or 88-108 fm. Very confusing, conflicting info found. So-so cosmetics, hinged top; front edge rust but no internal penetration. The pic with 2 rigs is a S-76 on top at 46lbs with the right most large microvolt/S-meter glass removed and the mechanicals of the meter/indicator are totally shot. Cosmetically pretty beat; bottom front case rust, but no internal penetration. Perhaps was capable of 538-34 mhz in its day. The bottom rig is the HT-37 xmiter at 80 lbs and was capable of 100 watts cw/ssb and 25 am on 10,14,20,40,80....Ok cosmetics.... The 3 hallicrafter rigs all have frayed 2 cond power cords and are pretty dirty/dusty/grimy.....surprisingly all dial tuning/bedspread controls work smoothly as well as other pots, swts, toggles, etc.... Let know if I described them correctly and their specs correctly and In your honest opinion, any value, worth cleaning up? Feel free to pedal the pics around to others for opinions... I may just make them available for sale/pickup as I have a Drake twins line, amp, Heaths and the Hammarlund's to attend to. SO any takers with offers? PLEASE and TU! 73! STAY SAFE AND STAY WELL Respectfully, Thomas K. Lanieri, NU2W NJ Licensed EMT; PHTLS, AMLS, PHPEC B.A.A. EMS Support ARC N.E. BioMedical Services ARC N.E. Disaster Health Services DanaFarber-Am Cancer Society

NEW member entered... tom nu2w

Came home and fired the rig up. let it run for an hour. Found a 10 to 15 W carrier on Both side bands. Attempted to NULL the carrier. The POT works and did null it down to 3W. The Trimmer Cap only has an effect of maybe .5w. I clipped a counter to the test point of the carrier xtals and could not believe it. Both xtals had moved in the right direction! What the heck. They are both spot on now. 1648.550. I can adjust up and down from there. That xtal was best case 1648.4 I guess the trimmer failed??? I hate to have to change it. its riveted in. I have a replacement 5 to 25PF trimmer. Also new modern diodes. I guess I will rebuild this circuit now. C

Walt, Jim and others, I have run into a snag during the alignment. I must have made a mistake. I followed Walts paper and the manual and aligned the Filter L15 and L16 That seemed to go smooth. ONE of them needed adjustment. The other was about right. The issue is that I cannot peak T4. Or even set it to 80 %. If I do, I have 500W on Tune mode and a massive carrier. You cannot null this carrier out. If I back T4 off to just the point where LSB OSC stops running, then go a bit more for reliable startup, you CAN null the carrier out and the rig seems to work OK. The Null is nice and deep. The power in tune is up to 500W with drive control working. Low power SSB is 550w. High power is 1000w pep. The Carrier rocks are on freq. BOTH SR2000s behave this way. This rules out a bad single component. They behave Exactly the same. I suspect I have made a mistake somewhere. Prior to the alignment I could peak T4, Set it down a bit on the soft slope side. I can no longer do that. Did I botch the L15 and L16 alignment? What did I miss?? C

I thought I had this finished but went out to the shop, turned it on, and receiver dead! After poking and probing it seemed like the 18.5 MHz oscillator was running at about 21.6 MHz. I scrounged fleabay and couldn't find an 18.5 MHz crystal but did get some 18.463 MHz parts. I replaced the crystal and although I couldn't get the osc adjustment to tune in at 20.15 MHZ it did tune in at around 20.06 MHz. After this I was able to satisfactorily perform the rest of the adjustments and have the freq dead-on as far as signal input and dial reading. My question is whether the oscillator being just a bit off frequency will cause me receive issues! If so maybe I could tweak the value of C36 and/or C37 to dial in the frequency. Or, maybe this would be a nice test for one of QRP Labs ProgRock2 if they are ever back in stock! Any thoughts? I'm hoping this slight freq difference is small enough to not make any difference. 73, -- Justin B. KI5GKD

Heil Sound has a replacement kit for the D -104 you can use either the HC-4 or HC-5 Element. 73 Tony WA4JQS At 08:56 AM 4/18/2024 -0700, you wrote:

g'luck... most of the original elements have gone bad... a few still linger. Caveat Emptor Grasshopper... An article in ELECTRIC RADIO some time back showed the use of KOBITONE elements, which WORK SWELL. I did a D-104 and it actually sounds BETTER than the working ones I have. Sources tell me that the particular element specified in the article isn't available, BUT... KOBITONE is verry much around and many other elements will work. MOUSER used to carry them, but that may no longer be the case... so do your own diggin' Tom - W?EAJ

Making slow progress on the HT-44 but am now able to get very good carrier suppression but don't know what to expect for unwanted sideband suppression. I can get it down to 50-55 dB below the wanted sideband if optimizing for just LSB or USB, but when adjusting for close to equal suppression of LSB and USB, I'm seeing around 40 dB for both. Is that as good as I can expect with the HT-44? Still have a problem with the noise around 40-45 dB down, very visible on my receiver spectrum scope. Maybe not noticeable if actually transmitting using a mic. 73, Floyd - K8AC

Still working on trying to cleanup the noise in my SSB mode signal. I found one bad .001 cap in the audio chain before the balanced modulators with Walt's advice. But, that didn't fix my noise problem. Here's what I'm seeing: With no microphone connected and in SSB mode and watching an external wattmeter, if I run up the mic gain to 8 or past, enough noise is present in the audio chain to create a few watts of output on the wattmeter. In examining the path from mic connector to the grid of the first microphone amplifier (V12 - 12AX7A), I first notice that there are a couple of inches of unshielded wire (including a series cap) until the shield begins. The shielded coax runs the depth of the chassis in a cable bundle before arriving at V12, where that piece of coax has the shield bonded to the chassis. At the microphone end, the shield in no bonded to chassis - it's floating. So, now I'm wondering if all HT-44s might exhibit the mic gain noise that I'm seeing due to the length of unshielded mic lead behind the front panel. I'm aware of the arguments for and against bonding both ends of a signal carrying shielded cable. Does anyone else have the problem I'm seeing and has anyone tried bonding the mic end of the coax to ground to see what the effect is? I'm wondering if it would be worth the time and effort to install a different front panel mic connector that would allow the internal shielded cable to be grounded via a connector pin to the mic and then move the series capacitor (C78) to the tube end of the circuit. Thoughts? 73, Floyd - K8AC

For sentimental reasons, I've been on the lookout for an S20 R model, and decided to take a chance on an Ebay sale of an "as is" unit. The cosmetic appearance didn't look too bad, and the fact that it powers on with at least a hiss in the speaker, and that it was part of a ham estate, gave me just enough hope to make an offer that was accepted. But once I have it in hand I will need to lean heavily on the S20R experts here, since I have limited skills (truthfully, ZERO) with regard to troubleshooting and/or restoring tube radios of this type. I think I was about 12 years old when I first discovered that the "broken" old S20R in our basement just needed an antenna to pick up signals, when I touched a screwdriver to one of the antenna terminals and almost immediately heard the WWV buzzing/clicking format the predated the current tones. I was hooked.

I have the opportunity to acquire a cosmetically nice and apparently unmodified HT-9. I have two issues with this purchase. First issue, because of its weight it will require a 9 hour drive one way (18 hours total and an overnight motel stay). The second major issue is it has no coils or tuning units. This is a bigger issue since I’ve been unable to find anything available or even fabrication info to make my own. I would need at least 80m stuff. I think it would be great to put this transmitter back on the air but will require some really difficult to find stuff, otherwise it will be a heavy boat anchor unable to do anything but sit there and look pretty. :<} Tom N5AMA

Hello everyone, I’m in the process of getting a SX-140 back on the air. If anyone has an audio output transformer (T4) that you would like to sell, I would really appreciate it. Thanks. Tony N5DIM

I am now three caps in. None fit. This one fits but shafts do not line up. This must have Been a custom order cap for hallicrafters. Anyone got any ideas now? Looking for a cap is officially over. Now unfortunately we must modify the radio. If I use gears, knob rotation will be backwards.

Sounds like a simple problem, like a bad drive control pot needing major cleaning or replacement.

I have only one Masonite back panel for my PS 2000. I dropped it off to a print shop and contracted them to reproduce these. If anyone wants one, please let me know. I have no idea what they will cost. I dont care. Once I find out I will post it. C

This question mainly for Walt. Finally starting on the first of two radios here and question the voltage reading for V6. The original manual only calls for 7 volts but in your instructions, Walt, you call for peaking T4 for a 30V level. The initial reading on this rig was about 11-12 volts with my Boonton rf meter and frequencies were both dead on. So far so good. Next tested peaking T4 and could indeed get to 30V easily with a slight roll off to the correct side. Now wondering which is the level I need? Been a long time since I studied product detector theory and don't remember if the higher oscillator injection voltage was required. Can you clarify for me? TNX es 73 ... Ed, WA9GQK

I am looking for a Hallicrafters R274 parts radio, or individual parts, im looking for the entire tuning gear assembly, including the main dial showing the frequencies,,, let me know what you might have...Thanks...WV8KU