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Looks like you have received good information and I think you will enjoy the TO keyer. It will key any radio. Boat Anchor or other. One difference is that it doesn’t have self completing dits and

Should work fine. Check the section on the protective circuit. Probably not really necessary but double check. On mine its mounted on the back of the octal plug. If you have used a keyer the TO is a

Thanks Richard, The input from the paddle I know but the manual isn't real specific on the out put.? I've been a CW op for over 42 years now but have never used an older vacuum tube keyer.? I'll use

Hi Don, “turns off the transmitter’s power ” means turns the original power switch CCW.? This cuts power to the SSR management circuit, but not to the SSR's themselves.? The SSR management

There is a good manual on BAMA. Paddles can be connected via a 1/4 inch TRS "Stereo" plug on the panel or via wires to the octal accessory plug on the back. Sleeve is common, dash is the ring, dot is

Halden, I don’t know what “turns off the transmitter’s power” means now; perhaps it means turns the reconnected power switch to OFF ? Below is some ideas based on what I think you are doing.

The TO keyer requires a stereo 1/4" plug to connect to an external paddle (tip - dot/ ring-dash/ground). Then you need to connect a MONO 1/4" plug to the TS-530's key jack? (the 530 manual states

Does not the TO require a 3 circuit "stereo" 1/4" plug. One side dit, other side dah? K3HVG

It's made to plug into the standard key jack common on rigs of that era, straight two conductor. Check your radios manual for wiring, tip usually the line to key and ground is the body of the plug.

I was given a TO keyed that is in great shape except for a broken knob. It appears to work too with? paddles plugged in and headphones it keys OK and sounds good.? But even though I found and

Well Halden , we are guessing, it might be an inrush adder that is not obvious, or maybe the rectifier tube[s] not quite “balanced” or whatever. I have not looked at the bias at all, but would not

Hi Don, Yeah, I noticed the asymmetry in current, too.? Thanks to your markup, it's clear that the current that goes through the rectifiers is about 0.4 A higher on one side than the other.? The

Halden, I admire your work on this project, but for now I am bypassing the design details of the new circuit. Img ..35 seems to show a very dominant resistive load [heaters and filaments] and a very

Here’s an update on the circuit I mentioned earlier for avoiding the occasional “thunggg” turn-on sound which is due to remanence-induced current surge. This circuit might reduce stress on the

I used a fixed value resistor, 2.5 megohm as I recall this eliminates the need for the dual pot. Easy to play with the resistor value to get the desired delay. Just my two bits. Mike W0FD

The original modification for break in cw will accomplish this but since the dual pot is hard to implement, requires two pots to duplicate. Still, it can be done. Transmitter still is in MOX but now

That's a much better idea! Bob W4JFA [email protected]> wrote:

There was a factory mod that was issued to make it a semi break in cw rig using the vox circuit. Seems like it is just a wire from the function switch to a high value resistor connected to the vox

Maybe you can build a transistor, FET, or opto-coupler switching circuit inside while leaving the original switch intact. It can be built on a very small perf board. Just a thought. Bob W4JFA

Does anyone know of a way to key the HT 37 on CW without having to switch the Operation switch from MOX to Standby at the end of a transmission?? I don't necessarily mind doing that but I don't want