Leon,? RE ?you should?CHECK AND INSPECT it from time to time

Check IT the neutral only ? or IT the local grounding only ?? … as far the neutral is concerned, ?how do you go about testing it ?

Your local ground might be easier to test.. but exactly what are you going to test ??? my guess would be that corroded connections are high on the list of potential failure points.

People in this general area might just LOOSE their ground rod connection? due to the midnight copper thieves..

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Thinking about? any disconnection to test, I am reminded of a ?“Mayday” episode where a big fancy plane crashed, primarily caused by tape put over the pitot tubes while they washed the plane or something, but the tape was not removed and was very hard to see from the ground.. so they were well up in the air before they knew the altitude gauges were wonky. ??

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weedeater operators should be required to have a license; they could take your fenders off too.

The guy next door it trying to fell our shared power pole with his weedeater

Sorry for all the extra gibberish ?

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Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR

Political Correctness is a Political Disease.

Politicians and Diapers should be changed
often and for the same reasons.

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On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 09:53:32 PM CST, Jim Whartenby via groups.io <old_radio@...> wrote:

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Isn't the neutral line grounded in the Edison split phase system at the pole mounted transformer and again at the service entrance of the residence?? Every house I have lived in had a copper clad steel rod driven into the ground just below the power meter and the main cutoff switch boxes.

Jim

Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence.? Murphy

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On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 02:57:23 PM CST, don Root <drootofallevil@...> wrote:

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Maynard, it was the connection at the pole in my case; anyhow as someone said, the so called “neutral” can not be guaranteed to be at ground level. ?

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Ya Jim, that or a close variation depending on where you live; the local grounding being variable with “soil” or rocks or sand. It was the neutral [grounded neutral] that was open ?so my neutral current had to go thru my ground to local earth and back 500 feet nominal to the transformer pole ground. Recall that the codes allow up to 25 ohms to local ground, so it is not much of a return wire even for a few amps.? Seeing the light bulb brightness and dim-ness was all I needed to know I had a neutral problem. Then I checked the main neutral bus? to determine that it was open somewhere outside and called the power Company.?? Of course all the outlet boxes ?washing machine, fridge, stove would ?be floating at some voltage above local mother earth too while testing one L-N load on the stove, and likely really bad if the A/C tried to start. ?

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Maynard, it was the connection at the pole in my case; anyhow as someone said, the so called “neutral” can not be guaranteed to be at ground level.

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James, I certainly was not the one to say any topic is stupid. That is like the idea of a stupid question. What would it take to make a topic stupid?

Now that you remind me, the neutral to my house went almost open, leaving 150 volts on one line when the other was loaded. There is something to think about.

Hi Jim, Sounds good; You can easily start another topic that we will also discuss to whatever length. We gotta do something to keep going,

Meanwhile, the 60Hz power has been going for 130 years? plus and has not been made obsolete.

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Hello Walt !

I still have the HT-46 that you used for a previous writeup – it’s been on a shelf ever since.

Would you like me to send it to you again!

Just let me know!

Mike/
K5MGR
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