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That happened to mine, too, some years ago. Measurements showed that the neutral lead coming from the power company via the service entrance had a loose connection which the power guys fixed quickly

James, I certainly was not the one to say any topic is stupid. That is like the idea of a stupid question. What would it take to make a topic stupid? Now that you remind me, the neutral to my house

Hi Don, I agree, it's a stupid topic.

Hi Jim, Sounds good; You can easily start another topic that we will also discuss to whatever length. We gotta do something to keep going, Meanwhile, the 60Hz power has been going for 130 years plus

Can we please move on to another topic? ?If you're worried about getting a "little tickle" from 120V, you have other issues. 73, Jim N9WW

Hello Walt ! I still have the HT-46 that you used for a previous writeup - it's been on a shelf ever since. Would you like me to send it to you again! Just let me

I am looking for an SX146/HT46 station. I would prefer a nonfunctioning but complete and unmodified set. I intend to write a repair manual for each.

Eric, that is another topic, but is very real concern, and requires a different test.. Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2025 9:58 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios]

I trust grounded (neutral and grounding) wires even less than "hot" ones. ? If the connections aren't solid, what was cold can, without warning, get "kinda warm" as the loads in the building switch

Since it tells you hot or netral, great. You can never trust what's there until you verify. You never know what someone in the past did. Everyone should check their receptacles to make sure they're

Hi Bob, Yes, that is exactly the function of the tool. It senses what wire/receptacle slot is hot/has potential on it and what wire/receptacle does not. It can do it even with the wire insulated. I

That tool looks good but the op wanted to know which wire is hot and which wire is neutral. Will it do that? Bob W4JFA [email protected]> wrote:

Hi Skip, What you need is a Non Contact Voltage sensing Tester. Specifically, a Klein Tools NCVT. They come in various configurations. I use an older version of the NCVT2P (Link here:

You can install a GFCI without using a bonded ground wire, see:https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/225370/is-it-safe-to-install-3-prong-gfci-with-only-a-hot-and-neutralRegards,Jim Logic: Method

Skip, that was me. At one time the code allowed a separate bare? ground wire to be run from a water pipe or whatever when having upgrading problems. Don’t quote my wording, but might that work for

Hi Skip, A Polarized, ungrounded, receptacle is readily available e.g. from Home

Thanks guys for the suggestions. One suggestion was: “You should most likely install a 3-wire cable.” But my home (downstairs) is a log home and the 2-conductor wire went in when the logs were

That's why I said temporarily wire it up. Bob W4JFA [email protected]> wrote:

You have to use an adapter or wire it direct. Bob W4JFA [email protected]> wrote:

If the GFCI disconnects a radio or similar appliance from the AC line voltage then there is a problem with a leakage current that is forming an alternate path for the line current.? A properly