Yup, went back to this site: He does have reprints of the 120A. K2WH --- In HallicraftersRadios@..., "William P. Gerhold" <k2wh@o...> wrote:
I may have mislead you here. The S-120 and S-120A are two
different animals. My first thought, the "A" meant they were very similar.
Very wrong. The S-120 is a tube receiver and the 120A is all solid
state so, they are not similar at all. The S-120 is a 4 tube
receiver and the S-120A is a 9 transistor receiver.
I would ask the Radio Reprint guy if he has the manuals for the S-
120A. Good luck with your search, I'm sure you will find one.
K2WH
--- In HallicraftersRadios@..., "William P. Gerhold"
<k2wh@o...> wrote:
You can also go to this site and order a reprint of the manual.
I have ordered from these people before, and they do have a good
product.
K2WH
--- In HallicraftersRadios@..., "William P. Gerhold"
<k2wh@o...> wrote:
The BAMA site has the S-120 listed. Go to this site:
However, I have never been able to download anything from this
site.
It is very unreliable or constantly busy with downloads. Good luck.
K2WH
--- In HallicraftersRadios@..., "cpitre_01"
<cpitre_01@y...> wrote:
I have an s-120a in fairly good condition, just wondering if
anyone
can tell me more about it..... year of manufacture, price
(then and
now) where I can find a manual. Also it does not have an
antenna,
just 2 wires sticking out of the back, one is yellow the
other is
blue I was told that the antenna is supposed to attach to
these
wires. Please Help!!
Chris
VE3CTP
|
Christopher A. George KU4LV
Hi Bill,
?
Which Model Numbers do you still need? I have a few
Hallis sitting around and will be glad to take and send the photos, if I have
the specific ones you need.
?
Chris KU4LV
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 4:06
PM
Subject: [HallicraftersRadios]
Gentlemen,
?
Some of you may know that I have
been actively collecting images of the labels, tags or nameplates found on
Hallicrafters equipment.? I
estimate, in another 10 years, these labels especially the paper ones, will be
gone forever.? I have images of
Tube Layouts, Manufacturer Model Identification labels, Serial # tags,
etc.
?
I have a large library of this
stuff and it is available in JPG format to anyone who needs a specific labels
or tag for a restoration project.?
I also collected these seemingly innocuous pieces of history just for
histories sake for eventual placement on CD for distribution.?
?
Most of the images are not art
ready.? That is, they cannot be
printed directly to a printer for transfer to your restoration project without
editing or manipulation.? What I
have done in the past with some restoration projects, was to print the picture
of the label and in a graphics program, make a new label or a reasonable
facsimile from the hard copy or if the image is close to perfection (a lot of
them are), size it and print it for direct application to the project
radio.
?
To make a long story short, if any
of you have a radio or other Hallicrafters product with labels still intact,
could you please take a digital image of them in high resolution mode and
email same to me for inclusion into the archive of labels.? I have attached (2) images for your
curiosity to show you what I am saving or looking
for.
?
Thanks,
K2WH
This
site is dedicated to the free and open exchange of ideas, advice, technical
and general information about Hallicrafters transmitters, receivers, home
entertainment equipment, and all other Hallicrafters products. And more
importantly, this site is dedicated to the large number of fans, cheerleaders
and users of this wonderful equipment which utilized the technology of vacuum
tubes.
Hallicrafters equipment was on the front lines (literally)
during the early years with military communications radios. On the home front
with shortwave receivers, amateur transmitters and home entertainment
equipment. Truly an American company.
K2WH (Your Moderator)
|
Thanks for your reply. Since you have a "few", and I have a couple of hundred, it would be easier if you let me know what you have. I think you get my meaning. Hi Hi. K2WH --- In HallicraftersRadios@..., "Christopher A. George KU4LV" <ku4lv@c...> wrote: Hi Bill,
Which Model Numbers do you still need? I have a few Hallis sitting around and will be glad to take and send the photos, if I have the specific ones you need.
Chris KU4LV
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Gerhold
To: HallicraftersRadios@...
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 4:06 PM
Subject: [HallicraftersRadios]
Gentlemen,
Some of you may know that I have been actively collecting images
of the labels, tags or nameplates found on Hallicrafters equipment. I estimate, in another 10 years, these labels especially the paper ones, will be gone forever. I have images of Tube Layouts, Manufacturer Model Identification labels, Serial # tags, etc.
I have a large library of this stuff and it is available in JPG
format to anyone who needs a specific labels or tag for a restoration project. I also collected these seemingly innocuous pieces of history just for histories sake for eventual placement on CD for distribution.
Most of the images are not art ready. That is, they cannot be
printed directly to a printer for transfer to your restoration project without editing or manipulation. What I have done in the past with some restoration projects, was to print the picture of the label and in a graphics program, make a new label or a reasonable facsimile from the hard copy or if the image is close to perfection (a lot of them are), size it and print it for direct application to the project radio.
To make a long story short, if any of you have a radio or other
Hallicrafters product with labels still intact, could you please take a digital image of them in high resolution mode and email same to me for inclusion into the archive of labels. I have attached (2) images for your curiosity to show you what I am saving or looking for.
Thanks,
K2WH
This site is dedicated to the free and open exchange of ideas,
advice, technical and general information about Hallicrafters transmitters, receivers, home entertainment equipment, and all other Hallicrafters products. And more importantly, this site is dedicated to the large number of fans, cheerleaders and users of this wonderful equipment which utilized the technology of vacuum tubes.
Hallicrafters equipment was on the front lines (literally) during
the early years with military communications radios. On the home front with shortwave receivers, amateur transmitters and home entertainment equipment. Truly an American company.
K2WH (Your Moderator)
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
--------------------------------------------------------------------
---------- Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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|
Hi Chris,
The book by Chuck Dachis "Radios by hallicrafters" is a must for people interested in Hallicrafters radios. I recommend buying it.
But regarding the S-120A: It was produced 1967-69 and cost new $59.95. Dachis lists it's current value (1999) as $28-55. You might do a look at past eBay sales for the S-120A.
73, Skip Magnuson W7WGM
|
Locked
Re: Hallicrafters S-120
And,.... It is available on Amazon.com K2WH --- In HallicraftersRadios@..., Waldo Magnuson <magnuson@m...> wrote: Hi Chris,
The book by Chuck Dachis "Radios by hallicrafters" is a must for people interested in Hallicrafters radios. I recommend buying it.
But regarding the S-120A: It was produced 1967-69 and cost new
$59.95. Dachis lists it's current value (1999) as $28-55. You might do a look at past eBay sales for the S-120A.
73, Skip Magnuson W7WGM
|
Locked
S-85 Power Cord replacement
Greetings de Dave KB3EFS.
Group input requested please.
Among the Hallicrafter radios that I own is a S-85 that has the
original power cord still in use. It has aged, cracked in places, and
is in need of replacement. What I am wondering is should I stick with
a two wire cord (either polarized or non-polarized) or should I go all
out and upgrade to a three wire cord with the ground wire attached to
the chassis. I have no idea how this would impact the value (if any)
of the radio should I decide to sell it.
Thank You.
73
Dave
KB3EFS
|
Locked
Re: S-85 Power Cord replacement
For the sake of safety, I would definitely replace the old line cord with a three-wire cord. If you sell the radio someday, advertise it an an "upgrade", not a "modification". If the buyer is a so-called collector who is willing to pay more for a radio in original condition, charge an extra $100 and send the old cracked, frayed, dangerous line cord with the radio so he can reinstall it. :-)
73,
Craig
W3CRR
|
Hi every one I just purchased a s38d and a sw500. They both have ac
hum (expected. Are caps still available or is there a work around? I
have been repairing industrial printing equipment for the last 13
years and have retired and need something to play with.
Tom
|
Tom, Welcome to the group and you have nice toys to play with. There are many places where you can obtain replacement caps. One of the places I like is: www.tubesandmore.com Good luck with the restoration. K2WH --- In HallicraftersRadios@..., "Tom Zyniecki" <tomz3@m...> wrote:
Hi every one I just purchased a s38d and a sw500. They both have ac
hum (expected. Are caps still available or is there a work around?
I have been repairing industrial printing equipment for the last 13
years and have retired and need something to play with.
Tom
|
Hi Tom,
Yes, those capacitors are still available, but not in the form you have now.? You will have to make them out of single electrolytics of the proper value which is very easy to do. There are many good sources out there and you can go to a search engine to find them.
However, before you start playing inside those AC/DC sets, please do several things:
Get and use an isolation transformer.
Install a polarized or preferably a 3 wire cord set.
Spend a few minutes reading the following items of interest and safety:
roy.morgan@...
To: hallicrafters@...
Sent from the Internet (Details)
At 08:02 PM 3/6/2005, chandlerh2@... wrote:
>i am recapping my SX42 got a cap kit from just radios . i am also going to
>replace the power cord with a 3 prong my question is do i hook the ground on
>the? plug? right to the chassis.? also does it matter which way i hook
>up? the
>polarized plug to the transformer.
Hallicrafters restorers,
Here is my advice on line cords and bypass caps, including how you wife can
become a widow with a fuses line cord plug.? For those who don't want to
read the rest of this, which material may save your life, I summarize the
bypass cap installation here:
>RF Bypass caps should be installed as follows:
>
>One from Line to Neutral, after the fuse.
>One from neutral to chassis.
Roy's Diatribe on Fused Line Cord Plugs and Line Cords and RF Bypassing
powercordsandbypassing.txt
From k1LKY
Fused Line Cord Plugs:
Under no circumstances should you ever use a fused line cord plug,
period.? It can kill you in a variety of ways.? The Johnson company put
them on Rangers, Valiants, and other equipment.? I have a Heath VHF-1 6-
and 2-Meter transmitter with one on it.? These line cords and fused plugs
are the first thing to go when I start returning it to serviceable
condition. Note that there seem to be two applications for fused line cord
plugs: Electric fence energizers and decorative electric holiday candles
and light strings.? The electric fence situation is based on long history,
and safety may well rely on the idea that the case of the energizer is
grounded with a ground rod to make the fence work properly.? The window
candles and light strings have no chassis, no switch, no transformer, and
very little exposure of energized conductors to people.
Some time ago I wrote imaginative but quite serious descriptions of some of
the many ways fused line cords can make a widow out of your wife.? I want
to re-write that thing and put in back into circulation, but that will have
to wait for another day.
In summary, however, the way your wife gets to be a widow is as follows:
1) The equipment with the fused line cord plug suffers an internal short
such as in a transformer or RFI bypass capacitor, with the short circuit
more or less to the chassis.
2) ONE of the line cord plug fuses blows (almost never will both blow
unless the fault is a dead short.)
3) You unplug the thing, unhook the "good station ground" wire and antenna,
move it to a work bench to figure out what is wrong.? Notice that the
ground you *might* have had on the chassis is removed.
4) You plug it back in and haplessly insert the unpolarized plug so the
intact fuse puts line voltage on the chassis.
5) You reach for the power switch, the current kills you and your wife
becomes a widow.
This is a topic sure to generate much traffic on any radio mailing
list.? People's attitudes seem to fall into four groups:
1) "Problem?? What problem?? There's no problem here." Duuuhhhh!
2) "Originality forever."? To hell with the fact that it may kill me or
someone else, I will use the original fused line cord and my equipment is
authentic.
3) "Hmmm..."? I'm glad to know about all this (but I may not DO anything to
prevent my death or that of any other hapless and innocent person.)
4) "But of course!"?? Safety in line cords is easy to understand and worth
paying attention to.? I'm going to get busy and fix this situation now.
Be safe, live long. Do not use fused line cord plugs.
Install a three-wire grounded line cord, and make sure your outlets are
working right.
Line cords and how to install one safely:
(in US standard line cords):
GREEN is safety ground, and should be tied directly to the chassis.
In European (IEC) cords, the safety ground is Green/Yellow.
BLACK is "hot" or "line" - it goes directly to the rear of the fuse holder,
the terminal farthest from the outside of the fuse holder where the cap is
installed.? The terminal on the fuse holder nearer the chassis or panel
goes to the switch and should go nowhere else. (See info on bypass caps
below.)? If you use an open clip-style fuse holder under the chassis, use
either end of it.
WHITE is "neutral" and goes UN-fused to the system, e.g. power transformer
primary.? Do not put a fuse in both power cord lines. This can lead to a
dangerous situation, though it's less likely to be dangerous with a three
wire grounded line cord than with the deadly fused two-wire un-polarized
line cord plug.
On the line cord wall plug,
? - the round, longer pin is green
? - the larger flat pin is neutral
? - the narrower flat pin is line or hot.
Note that European color coded line cords have different colors..? Here
they are:
LINE? ? ? ? ? ? (US) Black? =? (EU)? Brown
COMMON?? (US)White? =? (EU)? Blue
GROUND? ? (US) Green? ?? (EU)? Green/Yellow.
(begin extract from message by Bob Nickels)
From: "Robert Nickels"
Subject: [Johnson] Fused Plugs
...
A good source of replacement 3-wire power cords are those used by computers
and peripherals, but most of them use the European color designations?? For
years, the colors of individual conductors in cords for use in North America
have been black for line, white for neutral, and green for earth (ground).
But in order to harmonize worldwide standards,? two major UL equipment
standards, UL 1950, Information Technology Equipment, and UL 2601, Medical
and Dental Equipment, started several years ago to require the more
traditional European conductor color coding: brown for line, light blue for
neutral, and a? combination of green and yellow for ground.
The color conversion is as follows:
LINE? ? ? ? ? ? (US) Black? =? (EU)? Brown
COMMON?? (US)White? =? (EU)? Blue
GROUND? ? (US) Green? ?? (EU)? Green/Yellow
(end extract from message by Bob Nickels)
Older HP and other test equipments were equipped with an oval line cord
connector and matching cord.? The Belden/Volex 17280 power cords are
apparently the normally-connected cord..? There is a version with reversed
line and neutral.? In all of them, the offset (center) pin is chassis
ground.? When working with these equipments and line cords, do take time to
sort out hot from neutral so you retain the safety aspects of the fuse
connection.
RF Bypass caps should be installed as follows:
One from Line to Neutral, after the fuse.
One from neutral to chassis.
When our boatanchor equipment was made, it was common to use both a
two-wire, ungrounded line cord and two bypass caps, one from each side of
the line to the chassis.? Do not re-create this situation when you install
the three wire grounded line cord.? This causes a danger of fire should the
line to chassis cap short but not draw enough current to blow the circuit
breaker, and this arrangement also causes the chassis to be at half the
line voltage if the safety ground is not present (such as in a two-wire
outlet used with an adapter, or in an outlet improperly wired or faulty.)
There are currently available "Safety" capacitors meant for line bypass
applications. You can tell them from normal caps in the catalogs because
they cost about 5 times as much as normal caps.? If you take apart computer
power supplies or junk TV sets, you will wind up with one or two from each
unit.
A reasonable review and discussion of caps used in older radios and line
bypassing is at:
http://www.justradios.com/safetytips.html
ABC's of SAFETY Capacitors for Tube Radios
They do fail, however, to discuss the method of installation above.? The
authors are in Canada and offer a number of services for old radios,
including technical information, and capacitors.
Fuses:
The topic of fuse installation and choice of fuse type and rating is a
complicated one, but here are some points to consider:
? 1) For normal equipment, put one fuse only, in the Hot wire of the line
cord as near as practicable to the point where the line cord enters the
equipment.? The black, Hot wire of the line cord should run directly to the
tip of the fuse holder - see part 2 below for more details.
In equipment such as the Valiant transmitters that are made with extensive
RFI filtering on all leads exiting the case, you may not want to add a rear
chassis skirt mounted fuse holder. In other radios that never did have a
fuse, such as the Hallicrafters S-20R, adding a fuse holder would ruin the
originality of the set.? In these cases, mount an open fuse clip below the
chassis, possibly using an existing screw or transformer mounting bolt.
Some military equipment was built with a fuse and possibly a switch section
in both wires of the line. This was done? where the equipment was to be
used aboard ship or in other places where the power circuits were floated
from ground for safety and reliability reasons.? (This situation also
applies generally in Sweden and some other European countries.)? If the
equipment is in good condition you can leave it as it was built but make
sure you have a good three wire grounded line cord and that your outlet
grounds are properly connected.
Note: the three-terminal MS series, "Amphenol" type connectors used by the
military on such equipment as the CV-591 and CV-89 were installed with (at
least) two different pin arrangements.. Be very careful that you dope out
what you have when working on equipment of this sort. Mis-matching the cord
to the equipment could lead to trouble.
2) The Hot or line wire of the power cord goes directly to the rear of the
fuse holder, the one farthest from the outside of the fuse holder where the
cap is inserted.? The terminal on the fuse holder nearer the chassis or
panel goes as directly as possible to the switch. This reduces to the
absolute minimum the amount of conductor inside the equipment that is not
protected by the fuse.? And it reduces the chance of a shock when you are
installing or removing the fuse if the line cord is still energized.
3) The "cold" or neutral side of the line cord should NOT be fused.? The
Green, safety ground wire should never be fused.? Also, the safety ground
should not pass through any connector other than the line cord connector
and should not pass through any printed circuit path.? It should be
connected directly to the chassis.
4) Follow manufacturer's specs for the type and rating of the fuse.? Beware
of low voltage fuses that may fit the fuse holder you have. Fuses rated at
32 volts may not properly protect you and the equipment in normal line
voltage situations.? If you don't know the current rating needed, make a
guess at the rating and use smaller and smaller fuses until they blow from
time to time.. then increase the fuse current rating a bit.
5) "Inline" type fuse holders can be used under a chassis with no holes to
drill or screws needed to hold down an open style fuse holder.? They come
in two sorts, apparently. One sort is just like a panel mount fuse holder
but has no mounting nut and no external solder connections. Wires enter the
cap on one end and the holder body on the other end.? The other sort is
rounded and fastens together in the middle. This link shows both types and
has them for sale:
http://www.members.tripod.com/ralph_graves/littlefuse.htm
GFI and Hot Chassis Troubles:
The R-390 series of receivers, among others, was built with robust line
filters. The arrangement of the capacitors places half the line voltage on
the chassis if the chassis is not grounded.? This is NOT because the line
filter capacitors are leaking or shorted, it is normal voltage division
behavior of the circuit as installed.?? If the chassis is grounded, enough
current flows in the safety ground wire to unbalance the two line currents
and trip many ground fault interrupter devices.? Old style methods of
bypassing both wires of a two-wire line cord to the chassis can do the same
things.? Steps to correct these troubles include:
1) Remove the line filters or line bypass capacitors connected in the old
style and either leave them out or install bypasses as above.
2) Use an isolation transformer or a "Sola" type constant
voltage? transformer (most of which have isolated secondaries).? Note: most
"Variacs" or variable voltage transformers do NOT provide any
isolation.? Some that do apparently exist but they are rare.? Further,
fuses in these things may be in the input wire only and not in the variable
voltage output wire.? This can lead to overloading the low voltage turns of
your transformer.? Both input hot and output hot should be fused, or at the
least only the output wire.
3) Use properly grounded three wire line cords with non-GFI protected power
circuits.
Outlet Safety Testers:
Most home stores and electrical supply houses can sell you a small gadget
to test your outlets with.? They have a number of neon lamps that indicate
proper functioning or various fault conditions. The cost is less than $10
and is one of the best investments in your safety you can make.? Even
"licensed professional electricians" can and have made mistakes wiring up
houses, and time and wear can open up safety grounds that were installed
properly in the beginning.? You owe it to yourself, your family, and later
occupants of your house to buy and use one of these very helpful gadgets.
Think safety.
Install proper grounded line cords.
Live long.
(end of diatribe)
Roy
- Roy Morgan, K1LKY since 1959 - Keep 'em Glowing!
7130 Panorama Drive, Derwood MD 20855
Home: 301-330-8828 Cell 301-928-7794
Work: Voice: 301-975-3254,? Fax: 301-948-6213
roy.morgan@... --
______________________________________________________________
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hallicrafters
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.html
Post: mailto:Hallicrafters@...
----
List Administrator: Duane Fischer, W8DBF **for assistance**
dfischer@...
----
Hallicrafters Collectors International: http://www.w9wze.org
|
--- In HallicraftersRadios@..., w4awm@a... wrote: Hi Tom,
Yes, those capacitors are still available, but not in the form you have now. You will have to make them out of single electrolytics of the proper value which is very easy to do. There are many good sources out there and you can go to a search engine to find them.
Thanks Guys The information is very helpful. I had already decided to add the three wire cord to my radios and the filter caps were a delema. The web site has some very inportant information. I am a retired industrial election who has worked with everything from 5vdc to 13500 ac. I think I will realy enjoy this group. Tom
|
Locked
Re: S-85 Power Cord replacement
Hey Craig, We _used_ to be neighbors! In my 'pre'-ham days I used to live in Georgian Woods Apartments, and I lived in Powder Mill Village Apartments when I became a ham. This radio is far from original condition, so the power cord swap is of little concern to me. The next question I have is would a 3c/18awg cord be heavy enough for a S-85 or should I find a cord with say 3c/16awg or 3c/14awg in it? BTW - I was in GMRA, LARC, GARC, and PG ARES/RACES while I lived in that area. 73 Dave KB3EFS --- Craig Roberts <crgrbrts@...> wrote:
For the sake of safety, I would definitely replace
the old line cord with a three-wire cord. If you
sell the radio someday, advertise it an an
"upgrade", not a "modification". If the buyer is a so-called
collector who is willing to pay more for a radio in
original condition, charge an extra $100 and send the old cracked, frayed, dangerous line cord with the
radio so he can reinstall it. :-)
73,
Craig
W3CRR __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
|
Locked
Re: S-85 Power Cord replacement
Dave, 18 gauge is fine for the small current requirements of the S-85. K2WH --- In HallicraftersRadios@..., David Aitcheson - KB3EFS <kb3efs@y...> wrote: Hey Craig,
We _used_ to be neighbors! In my 'pre'-ham days I
used to live in Georgian Woods Apartments, and I lived
in Powder Mill Village Apartments when I became a ham.
This radio is far from original condition, so the
power cord swap is of little concern to me.
The next question I have is would a 3c/18awg cord be
heavy enough for a S-85 or should I find a cord with
say 3c/16awg or 3c/14awg in it?
BTW - I was in GMRA, LARC, GARC, and PG ARES/RACES
while I lived in that area.
73
Dave
KB3EFS
--- Craig Roberts <crgrbrts@v...> wrote:
For the sake of safety, I would definitely replace
the old line cord with a three-wire cord. If you
sell the radio someday, advertise it an an
"upgrade",
not a "modification". If the buyer is a so-called
collector who is willing to pay more for a radio in
original condition, charge an extra $100 and send the
old cracked, frayed, dangerous line cord with the
radio so he can reinstall it. :-)
73,
Craig
W3CRR
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
|
Locked
Re: S-85 Power Cord replacement
Bill, Thanks, the soldering iron is warming up as I reply! 73 Dave KB3EFS --- "William P. Gerhold" <k2wh@...> wrote:
Dave,
18 gauge is fine for the small current requirements
of the S-85.
K2WH
--- In HallicraftersRadios@..., David
Aitcheson - KB3EFS
<kb3efs@y...> wrote:
Hey Craig,
We _used_ to be neighbors! In my 'pre'-ham days I
used to live in Georgian Woods Apartments, and I
lived in Powder Mill Village Apartments when I
became a ham.
This radio is far from original condition, so the
power cord swap is of little concern to me.
The next question I have is would a 3c/18awg cord
be heavy enough for a S-85 or should I find a cord
with say 3c/16awg or 3c/14awg in it?
BTW - I was in GMRA, LARC, GARC, and PG ARES/RACES
while I lived in that area.
73
Dave
KB3EFS
--- Craig Roberts <crgrbrts@v...> wrote:
For the sake of safety, I would definitely
replace the old line cord with a three-wire
cord. If you sell the radio someday, advertise
it an an "upgrade", not a "modification". If
the buyer is a so-called collector who is
willing to pay more for a radio in original
condition, charge an extra $100 and send the
old cracked, frayed, dangerous line cord with
the radio so he can reinstall it. :-)
73,
Craig
W3CRR
__________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Make Yahoo! your home page
|
Does anyone know if the S-19R knobs, our featured product of the
week, had plastic pointers like the one over the main tuning dial? I
know other radios of that time era like the SX-16,17,18 did have
plastic pointers.
K2WH
|
Hi Tom and Welcome. I get all of my filter caps (and all other caps) from Justradios.com. His prices are competative and his product solid. He usually ships quickly and will take PayPal for payment.
?
Hope that helps
Wayne
Tom Zyniecki wrote:
Hi every one I just purchased a s38d and a sw500. They both have ac
hum (expected. Are caps still available or is there a work around? I
have been repairing industrial printing equipment for the last 13
years and have retired and need something to play with.
Tom
This site is dedicated to the free and open exchange of ideas, advice, technical and general information about Hallicrafters transmitters, receivers, home entertainment equipment, and all other Hallicrafters products. And more importantly, this site is dedicated to the large number of fans, cheerleaders and users of this wonderful equipment which utilized the technology of vacuum tubes.
Hallicrafters equipment was on the front lines (literally) during the early years with military communications radios. On the home front with shortwave receivers, amateur transmitters and
home entertainment equipment. Truly an American company.
K2WH (Your Moderator)
Yahoo! Groups Links
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Locked
Website Changes Possible.
Gentlemen,
I have been toying with the idea of going to a premium service for
this website. It would still be a Yahoo site but without any
advertisements, pop ups and so forth and would allow much more memory
allocations, email options, speed and so forth. I have been
uploading instruction manuals in the "Files" section and I am out of
memory on the Yahoo site. So, if I want to expand this further, I
will need to go a different route.
We currently have 40 members. If the member count goes higher, I
will make the move to the new format. I have never done something
like that before but, they say it is painless. I have questions that
I need answered before I do it like: What happens to all the current
members when I upgrade? Will I lose them? etc, etc.
BTW, the change, if I do it, will cost the members nothing, but we
will have a real website that I pledge will always be free and no
requests for donations of any kind except information. Hallicrafters
information for the masses.
I look forward to making this a fun site with lots of information
storage for all kinds of Hallicrafters info. I will keep you
informed.
K2WH
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Hi Dave,
If you want to pay postage, I'll send you a new 3-wire cord. I placed a bid of $3.75 at a local college surplus sale and got 50 of the cords - new in sealed bags. I'll need an address too.
73, Skip Magnuson W7WGM
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Re: Interesting and New Materials Offered Soon.
--- In HallicraftersRadios@..., "William P. Gerhold" <k2wh@o...> wrote:
I will soon be offering complete PDF images (scanned single sheets)
of old Hallicrafters publications. These publications include
sales brochures and technical manuals. I have been collecting this
information for some time now, and have decided to scan the
books/pamphlets page by page and combine them into PDF files which
will be available for download in the "Files" section.
Completion date? Its never complete!
K2WH Hi William, My name is Gene Encinas and I'm a licenced amateur in Mexico, not too far away from San Diego Ca. My call is XE2EEQ and I,m current in QRZ. Here's my problem: I'm restoring a SX-122 and have no manual. I have tried the BAMA site and have not bee successful in downloading it. I tried downloading the deja vu viewer and cannot get anything. A manual in PDF format that I can read with Acrobatwoul be greatly appreciated. Could You Help? Thanks and '73 Gene XE2EEQ
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Locked
Re: Interesting and New Materials Offered Soon.
Gene, Don't ask me how, but I was able to get the SX-122 file off BAMA after much trial and effort and don't ask how I did it because I cannot remember. Just dumb luck. I will forward it to you in PDF format or would you prefer the DJVU format. K2WH Hi William,
My name is Gene Encinas and I'm a licenced amateur in Mexico, not too far away from San Diego Ca.
My call is XE2EEQ and I,m current in QRZ.
Here's my problem: I'm restoring a SX-122 and have no manual. I have tried the BAMA site and have not bee successful in downloading it.
I tried downloading the deja vu viewer and cannot get anything.
A manual in PDF format that I can read with Acrobatwoul be greatly
appreciated. Could You Help?
Thanks and '73
Gene XE2EEQ
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Bill (Group Owner)