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My house was built in 1955 and has several outlets that are unpolarized outlets. If I replace an outlet with a 2-prong polarized outlet (neutral opening larger than the hot opening) how do tell which

Thanks, I can make the power supply the common point ground or run a ground from both radio and power supply to the operating table ground buss. I don't expect to have 60hz AC and if so I'll rework

I just finished a complete rebuild on my? PS 150-120.? I choose to stay with a 2 prong polarized power cord mostly due to Walter Cates recommendation to avoid 60hz hum on the TX.? ?Didn't see why

Hi dave ya it seems the Sr-150 was made from 1961 to 63 so designed just before polarized outlets were required. I have used GFCIs for years especially for power tools and especially outdoors or

Haha, I wondered about both and not worried about it! I hate GFIs and all the other rip-offs EATON and HomeDespot have devised to extract my money from my pocket. I'm trying to adapt to having pink

Well Dave. if in 1963 you had one slot smaller than the other, you were ahead of the game; the house I am in [1956] was all non polarized, except for the Garage, washing machine and outdoor outlets.

Ok, but for me during my ham years starting in 1963 the smaller of the two socket openings was always hot. The smooth side of the cord was always hot as well. Funny how time seems to change

Dave, ya… 4 more hours and the year is Gone. Back when this stuff was made, the identity of hot and neutral should have made it to the back of the outlet but there was no such identity at the

Many radios back in the day were wired this way. I always change them over to a 3-wire line cord, fuse in the line side as well as the line going to the on/off switch. Any capacitors on the line

Hi Folks, Happy New Year, Replacing a garbage 18 gauge AC cord that someone installed in the power supply. I see the guy wired the neutral side to the fuse. I always thought the hot side went to the

If the neutral side of the line is directly connected to the chassis and the hot side is now connected to the ON/OFF switch, what is to be done if the AC hum or other noise picked up from the AC line

I should have added that changing to a polarized plug requires re-wiring the on/off switch. Not needed if the chassis passes the "hot" test. See https://geojohn.org/Radios/MyRadios/Safety.html -- 73

Value is not critical, but voltage rating needs attention. I would use a 250v A.C. rated disc ceramic, or else one with a rating greater than 1000v D.C. I would also check (or replace) the resistor

The value is not critical. The .047 safety cap should be fine. 73 Bob "Kirk" W?HNV [email protected]> wrote:

Hey guys, was just about to replace the power supply filter in my S-38C.? opened it up and found a blown up bumblee capacitor.?? The cap in question is C-27? a .02uF @600v? which goes from one

The advantage of buying from a domestic reseller is that you have a return avenue in the event of a problem.? You may or may not need that of course.? But if you do, then you are able to speak to

Yupper…yes it was! TU! STAY SAFE AND STAY WELL! Respectfully, Thomas K. Lanieri, NU2W NJ DOH Licensed EMT; PHTLS, AMLS, PHPEC Millenium EMS ARC N.E. BioMedical Services ARC N.E.

I went ahead and recapped the power supply anyway. ?I had forgot I orders the caps for it a while back.

So is paying more gunna protect me any more? Thomas, no. But I, for one, don't mind throwing a few extra bucks at a purchase from a US-based brick & mortar seller. Sure was nice to drive 10 minutes

Ah, sorry for any misinterpretation... My Ultra is still working fine. I haven't updated the firmware lately, but when I was teaching electronics at MSU, I bought 20 of the original TinySA's for