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Hi, I need some help for my HP 3325A, which worked many years perfect, but know has the common FAIL 2 & 3 Error. (PASS 1, FAIL 2 FAIL 3) It has still sin, square and triangle output, the amplitude is

I modified my soldering station lije this: Instead using the hard ground wire to the tip I replaced it with a 1 MOhm resistor inside the soldering station. No more risk of shorting stuff, and still

The "grounded soldering iron shorting the battery" is one I know from the HP3478A DMM. They loose their cal data if you do that. It is not a generic problem but certainly something to pay attention to

That looks awesome!

Peter, Fortunately, the PS troubleshooting section (p.6-21) has some good directions on how to check the PS once detached from the modules it supplies. It involves loading only the 5.2V output (with a

You are seeing the tabs which are spot welded to the cell, it's not a socket, the cell is soldered to the board.? Well you might be able to pry but risk damage to the board or traces.? At this point

Radu, I have no personal knowledge of the this battery replacement, however my best guess would be a CR2032, or CR2025 type. The coin/button cells of this type seem to be 3V lithium. If you cannot

Yeah, sort of permanent tabs! I accidentally bought 50 of the Murata tabbed CR2032s and just yanked the spot-welded tabs off with pliers. They will come off if you pull hard enough. Best to order

To finish that thought, in terms of chemistry of type of battery, if I have more leeway in what I choose, what would be some recommendations on the chemistry of the battery? R?zvan - thanks a bunch

Peter, No, but I am aware of that (though, really good point!). I assume the batteries are depleted. I also assume all they're holding is the calibration data, and the actual instrument software is

Has anyone mentioned to watch out for grounded soldering iron tips when doing this (if the cell is not discharged or memory contents need to be kept alive using an external PSU) Peter

Hi Radu, I would say that battery is a CR2430 or a BR2430 looking at the size compared the ICs around. I replaced it also in my 8970B but there I had a holder. I had a few days ago an issue with my

Thanks, Gabor. That makes sense and I don't think it'd be so bad even in the long term. I'd personally do it in a way where this can be serviced again (in 10 years or... 25!), and a socket would

Thank you, Steve. One other unfortunate effect of the spot-welding of the top tab is that the battery code is not visible. I can probably destroy the battery once out, and read the CRxyzt battery

I'm a bit ashamed to admit that in such a case, I'd probably hot glue a battery holder that I already have in place of the original and connect its leads with a pair of short wires to the pads. If

When you get to the bottom side of the PCB, I'm pretty sure you'll find three "leads" sticking thru. Two go to the top side of the cell, and one to the underside. You'll need to carefully desolder all

Awesome. Thank you guys! I only did just about enough prying to figure this mustn't be the right way to remove, then asked here. It sounds like it's not a ten minute deal and needs weekend time to

Stop prying! I've used that type battery many times. The tab on top is spot-welded to the cell, with two fingers soldered thru the PCB. underneath is another, smaller tab, with a single finger

Just my 2 cents worth, I think that battery is soldered in and the tags/clips are spot welded on to it. You’ll probably need to remove the board assembly to successfully remove it. I think any more

The triangular tab is spot welded to the coin cell and then the legs of the tab are in turn soldered to the board next to the resistor. A great way to force the repair technician to completely