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At the risk of shameless self-promotion, I've placed a GPIB-to-USB adapter on the E-place for sale/auction. I hope I've chosen a reasonable price range. If you want to have a look, it's item

Todd, the battery is already on my list of to do items. The security seal on the meter I've got on the way appears to have not been broken. I assume this is from the last cal back in 98. The fact that

Martin, Well that is the information I was looking for! Thank you, however that is not what I expected. That was option "2" for me. To me it seemed more logical to provide a 600 ohm load to the 600

It seems that for about $11 it would be worth buying some and experimenting with it. Dave

Dave, Thanks for pointing that out. Dave

Another important consideration will be the onboard battery BT501. See if you can determine its age. Also, according to my manual (dated Feb 1988 ed 3) on page 6-26, along with the list

Which nylon clutch parts? The attenuator gears on mine, that slide to engage, are brass, with what appears to be a standard 45degree tooth face. The only nylon parts are the switch finger cam and

Hello All, my first post :-) I have been searching the group history for any information about a possible source for the Nylon Clutch mechanism that is part of the input attenuator/reference level

Thanks Joe. Gives me a bit of piece of mind. I may have overlooked your details in the post. So I assume the self test OK message pretty much rules out failures I need to worry about ? My apologizes

If the 'SELF TEST OK' message appears, there is no need to make any 'adjustments'. Just do the 'front panel CAL' if needed. As I said, I would check it out, assume it is the best instrument in

Wow, lots of replies all of a sudden. I'm already prepping the wife for the $200 + price tag of calibration. Funny how when I was single I would have about $800 in cash in my wallet at all times and

I'm looking for the Option 001 Phase-Lock Assembly for an Agilent 33120A Arbitrary Waveform/Function Generator. This is a module that allows 10 Mhz Reference in and out of the unit. It's also a 10 Mhz

I had a Solartron 7081 that I had sent to AMETEK for repair and calibration. I used it as a ‘transfer’ standard. My AC source was a 3326A fed via Coax to a 50 ohm terminator read first by the

What do you use as a "House CAL" that is almost good enough for the 8.5 digit 3458A? That's a seriously accurate (and seriously expensive), multi-meter. Dave.

Thank you for all your responses. I think I'm going to pursue the SDR option, although I'll keep an eye out for an inexpensive shortwave radio if I see one.

According to the manual, there are only two 'adjustments' that can be made on a 3457A, Input Offset Amplifier adjustment and AC Converter Frequency Response, both needed only if there is a 'HARDWARE

I thought the bit showing the noise on the DVM was a bit silly when it was connected to a DC power supply. I think the calibration service you chose might dictate whether you get data about the

Watching these videos has sparked my interest in my 3457A and raised some questions. As for calibration, the Agilent website lists a per incident calibration at $204.22 and an End of Support date of

I have used a product from Anders Products called Wire Glue. Not an inspiring name, but works very well. It is non conductive until it cures. Very low resistance and dries to a dark neutral grey

Here's another product --> http://www.sandman.com/rubberb.html <http://www.sandman.com/rubberb.html> but a bit more pricy! Gary know how it works, and how it dries, for a totally different use.