Here's another product -->
<> but a bit more pricy!
Gary
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., Daniel Koller wrote:
Interesting stuff. ? I have not used it but I too would like to
know how it works, and how it dries, for a totally different use. ?
How black is it when it is dry? ? I am curious if it would make a
good absorptive coating for calorimeter-based optical power detection.
Dan
p.s. realize my interest is Off-Topic so happy to take any replies not
related to the original post off-line. ? Thx.
________________________________
From: Gary GEMCCLUNG@...
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 2:26 PM
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: Foam conductor problems
?
I found this doing a search -->
;
5
Has anyone ever used this stuff? I'm still not sure if my pads are
defective. I want to make sure the conductive foam is working
properly
before I get crazy with fixes. All the LEDs and keypads go through
the
conductive foam which is the weak link in the design.
Gary
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "William" wrote:
I Can't remember where, but I've seen repair kits for kits for those
types of keyboard switches.
Bill HIgdon
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "Gary" GEMCCLUNG@
wrote:
I've added some pictures under "3561A repair" to document a
problem
with my SA. All the electronics check out after replacing some parts
but some of the buttons and most of the LEDs were not working on the
front panel. After opening the front panel I found that this
conductive
foam seems to be the culprit. I've repaired LCD displays by cleaning
conductive foam but the conductors in this foam seem very small. I
cleaned it up with some ISO-alcohol and some of the LEDs started
working
but some of the key pads quit working. I cleaned it a second time and
the same results. Some other buttons are working but some still not.
The LED problem is solely the problem of the conductive foam but the
keys could also be the conductive pads on the rubber keys. I've
measured the resistance on most of the pads and they are about 50 ohms
except for some that are 200 ohms and greater (up to about 480 ohms).
I'm not sure what the max resistance can be and still make the key
function. My solution first is to just solder the two boards with a
connection harness to eliminate the conductive foam but I'm not sure
how
to fix the rubber key problem. I have some conductive paint but the
resistance is still high, around 150 ohms. Does anyone have any
success
repairing this kind of problem?
Gary
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
