Yes Marty,
Mine communicates and programs fine on
3.3v, you must have something wrong.
I used the very common 4 channel level
shifter board from ebay. ?
Just search for ¡°4 channel level shifter¡±.
It has a High Voltage side and a Low?
Voltage side, DIP style module . ?You could
just use 2 resistor voltage dividers too.
73,
Gary?
WB6OGD?
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On Feb 16, 2020, at 8:27 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:
?Could you reliably download to the Nano before you did the surgery?
Have you tied the old 3.3v and old 5.0v (now 3.3v) rails together?
Have you measured the output of the 3.3v regulator, verified it is a solid 3.3v even when downloading?
I haven't tried it with a tinySA yet, but I do have a Nano hacked to 3.3v
that reliably downloads firmware?from a USB host.
Jerry, KE7ER
On Sun, Feb 16, 2020 at 08:08 PM, Marty Wittrock wrote:
TinySA Team,
Today, I took a programmed Arduino Nano (with TinySA for the Nano) and performed the 'surgery' to the schematic to make the Nano a 3.3VDC compliant device by replacing the regulator to a 3.3V type (from 5V) and a few cuts and jumps (I improvised on the cuts and took out a diode where it was clearly not being used). I am here to tell you that while all that is possible and all the measurements I took and the checkout of the I/Os looked good...It WON'T communicate to Erik's TinySA Windows PC program. The PC 'sees' the modified board as a 'COM4' device (sometimes this can also be a 'COM11' device) but no matter what, the TinySA PC program DOES NOT see the 'COM4' device when powered and running and it cannot even start it because it never makes the list - - the list just shows 'Mockup. It may work for other applications, but not for TinySA, and it also becomes more problematic to upload a sketch to the device even when powered in-situ in the setup, too - multiple bad read and write errors.
In closing, I would NOT advise doing this for the Arduino Nano for the TinySA application. I have become a believer that Level Shifting is necessary to make this work for the TinySA and a standard 5V programmed Arduino Nano - that's how I'm going to try mine next.
73 de Marty, KN0CK