开云体育

I’m about to begin modifying my Viking 2 for operation with the 6N2. The modifications on the Viking 2 seem straight forward with the exception of two things. Thing 1: changing out the VFO socket on the Viking 2 to a 9 pin socket and “socket support shell”. I’m not following what a “socket support shell” is unless it’s the mounting bracket for the socket that connects it to the chassis. I’m unable to find a 9 pin socket so I planned to simply use the existing ceramic 8 pin socket. Pin 9 on the 6N2 is a ground and there appears to be several unused pins on both the V2 and the 6N2. I’ll just use pin 8 for a ground and replace the existing 6N2 9 pin male connector to a 8 pin male. I’ve got plenty of 8 pin male and female connectors and shields. Thing 2: I don’t see anywhere in the 6N2 manual providing these instructions to modify the Viking 1 and 2 or the Ranger that the modifications will allow normal operations of this equipment after they are modified to work with the 6N2. If it’s necessary to reverse these modifications to operate my gear on HF, I may look for another way to supply and modulate my 6N2. I’ll put a sticker on the Viking 2 VFO socket stating that plugging a 122 VFO into this socket might not be a real good idea. Thanks, Tom N5AMA

Does anyone have any experience mating a 6N2 with the Clegg Thor supply/modulator? I’m trying to put a 6N2 on 6m AM for some local rag chewing and really not interested in modifying either of my Viking 1 or 2 transmitters to work with the 6N2. I think I should be able to cobble up a cable between the two if it makes sense. I would go with the Thor transmitter and supply but can’t locate a Thor transmitter. Any help appreciated. Tom N5AMA

Is there any info on programming software and cable

MONTHLY REMINDER--Our Amateur Radio Groups Below are our amateur radio related groups. Some may be new enough there are only a few members. If one of those interests you, join it and give it some time to grow. It costs nothing and if there’s few members, it won’t be filling up your inbox while you wait for it to grow. ? Alinco /g/Alinco-Amateur-Radio Antenna Tuners /g/Antenna-Tuners Anytone /g/Anytone-Amateur-Radio Baofeng /g/Baofeng CHIRP radio programming tool /g/CHIRP EF Johnson /g/EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio Ham radio antennas https://ham-antennas.groups.io/g/main Ham Radio Help group https://hamradiohelp.groups.io/g/main Icom /g/ICOM Icom 746 /g/Icom-746 Icom 746 Pro /g/Icom-746Pro Kenwood /g/Kenwood-Amateur-Radio MFJ ham equipment /g/MFJ-Amateur-Radio National /g/National-Amateur-Radio RF Amplifiers https://rf-amplifiers.groups.io/g/main Swan /g/Swan-Amateur-Radio Yaesu FT-757 /g/FT-757GX Yaesu FT-767GX /g/FT-767GX

Still looking for an Invader (NOT Invader 2000). If you have one to sell and are going to Dayton, here's your chance to sell it without having to ship. Or, I might be willing to come and get it. 73, Floyd - K8AC

Hello Free for Postage, USPS Flat Rate Box, ($30), to the Lower 48 only. Johnson Ranger 1 & 2 variable capacitor set (4 sets) Sets consist of: Main Tuning Variable Two-section Capacitor Loading Variable capacitor Buffer Tuning Variable capacitor NO MOUNTING HARDWARE EXCEPT THAT WHICH IS PERMANENTLY ATTACHED TO THE CAPACITORS. Capacitors are in great mechanical shape, bearings oiled and tested. Units not cleaned. We are cleaning house a bit, we have several sets of these capacitors ( started out with a few, left them un-watched and unattended, soon there were two boxes full). Main Tuning Loading Buffer Tuning Thank You Ashley Thank You Kiss-Electronics Ms Ashley Hall 183 N 5th PL. Cornelius, Oregon 97113 W7DUZ

I am looking for a Johnson Signal Sentry, Part No. 250-25. Thanks! Mike Harmon, WB0LDJ mharmon at att dot net

Hello Free for USPS Postage, probably Medium Flat rate box, to the lower 48.Insured. Let us know how much insurance you need for this meter. We use lots of bubble wrap !! This meter is not tested. Known Issues: Top edge of the movement housing has been chipped ( someone tried to remove the meter cover with a crowbar). Movement SEEMS free needle movement but, as noted, not tested full scale. Photo available Thank You Ashley Thank You Kiss-Electronics Ms Ashley Hall 183 N 5th PL. Cornelius, Oregon 97113 W7DUZ On Wednesday, January 1, 2025 at 05:30:47 AM PST, Group Notification <[email protected]> wrote: MONTHLY REMINDER--Our Amateur Radio Groups Below are our amateur radio related groups. Some may be new enough there are only a few members. If one of those interests you, join it and give it some time to grow. It costs nothing and if there’s few members, it won’t be filling up your inbox while you wait for it to grow. ? Alinco /g/Alinco-Amateur-Radio Antenna Tuners /g/Antenna-Tuners Anytone /g/Anytone-Amateur-Radio Baofeng /g/Baofeng CHIRP radio programming tool /g/CHIRP EF Johnson /g/EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio Ham radio antennas https://ham-antennas.groups.io/g/main Ham Radio Help group https://hamradiohelp.groups.io/g/main Icom /g/ICOM Icom 746 /g/Icom-746 Icom 746 Pro /g/Icom-746Pro Kenwood /g/Kenwood-Amateur-Radio MFJ ham equipment /g/MFJ-Amateur-Radio National /g/National-Amateur-Radio RF Amplifiers https://rf-amplifiers.groups.io/g/main Swan /g/Swan-Amateur-Radio Yaesu FT-757 /g/FT-757GX Yaesu FT-767GX /g/FT-767GX

For Sale: Johnson Viking Valiant 1 This radio is in good overall shape and appears to be complete. It is untested. Condition is commensurate with age with some “patina”, especially on the rear panel. All knobs move easily. It has been in dry storage for 10+ years. There appears to be extra switch on the front panel placed there by the prior owner. Additionally, there appears to be one 6-pin tube missing, and another was replaced by what appears to be an R/C network. Because of the above, the radio is being sold for “parts-only”, although I believe that it would be a very good base for a high-fidelity AM transmitter. Asking $75.00, pick-up or meet-up in Metro-west Boston. Other delivery and meet -up arrangements are possible. I would like to see it go to a good home. 73, Gene K1NR

Hi Folks, I don't expect any of you to waste a lot of brain cells on this idea, but I thought I'd run it by you to see if you experts might have an idea for me to try: I'm rebuilding a Johnson Valiant I, and after it's complete, I plan to use it on the 160, 80 and 40 meter bands as an AM/CW station along with my Collins R-388 (51J-3) receiver. I've never been a fan of Dow-Key relays as a means of switching antennas from transmit mode to receive mode. Ever since I was a novice back in the Sixties, I've always liked using an electronic TR switch. Break-in CW used to be sort of fun back then, and there's no clacking of relays on voice modes. The problem with most TR switch designs is the lack of receiver muting capability. The best TR switch ever built was the Johnson 250-39, and I have 3 of them! They work like a dream for T/R switching, but there's no way to mute the receiver during transmit. The R-388 just happens to have a terminal strip on the back that is connected to a 12 VDC T/R relay inside the receiver. When closed, the relay shorts out the front end and kills the B+ to the later stages to mute the receiver. This relay could easily be changed to a faster, quieter relay if needed. The challenge is - how to activate the relay? Now my brainstorm .... The TR switch uses the RF signal to grid-block a 6BL7 dual triode during transmit, and as soon as the transmit signal goes away, the 6BL7 reverts to being a common cathode RF amp. Is there any way to use the grid current in the tube to drive a FET or something similar, which could then be used to activate the break-in relay in the receiver? I've mulled this idea around for a while, and run it by some local guys, who mostly just did an eye-roll and told me to just use a Dow-Key and put up with the howls from the receiver. Well, that's a possibility on CW, but certainly not on voice. Am I crazy? Deluded? A wishful thinker? I know the technology is there - I just don't know how to use it! I don't know how to attach a PDF of the TR switch schematic, but most of you probably have it anyway. Please tell me what you think. Thanks! Mike, WB0LDJ mharmon at att dot net

I have a Viking I transmitter. Anyone know of any videos that sow how to bring it on line a transmit. It is not as straight forward as today's amateur gear and I am having trouble finding anyone who can walk me though the process.

Hello everyone ! I have recently acquired in a box of mostly Tektronix manuals (for which I’m also looking for a home) a Johnson Viking I transmitter manual. It even has the un-numbered page with instructions about how to connect the transmitter to drive “a larger modulator” – a page Johnson inserted between pages 8 and 9. It's clearly mimeographed, and the pages are light tan, no longer white. The cover has a picture of the transmitter and the typical Johnson red-orange bands across the top and bottom. It says that it’s CATALOG 705, but the insides are clearly a manual. Only the top two pages, which are printed on glossy stock, appear to be from a/the catalog, so someone apparently stapled the relevant two pages from the catalog onto and as the front pages of the aging mimeographed Viking I manual. It also has a page of handwritten notes about how to tune up the transmitter. I don’t have a Viking I – I have a Valiant and a Navigator, so I don’t need this manual. So, it’s free to a good home. If you have a Viking I and would like this manual, please let me know and I’ll send it to you. First responder gets it. No cost – I just can’t bear to throw away equipment manuals! Now if you know someone who’d like a cardboard file box full to Tektronix manuals, please tell me. I’m trying to keep them out of the landfill, too! Mike/ K5MGR _________________________ Mike Langner 929 Alameda Road NW Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901 (505) 898-3212 home/home office (505) 238-8810 cell mlangner@...

Hello Group, For sale are a Johnson Thunderbolt and a Johnson Pacemaker. Both are in excellent, uncorroded or rusted, condition. Collector quality, except for scratches on the top outer cabinets. Nothing that can't be touched up. They are just too heavy for me to deal with. Both for $800. Prefer not to separate. Shipping would be extremely expensive and detrimental to the equipment, so pick up is required. Located in the South Bay, 6 miles south of LAX. Can be delivered within 20 mile radius.

What are the recommended microphones to use with a Ranger II for best audio? Thank you. 73, Michael Smith, N4KZO -- 73, Michael Smith, N4KZO

I have a Valiant I that I'm rebuilding from the ground up. In the original schematic, Johnson used a double fused plug with two 8A fuses. I assume that was because the plug was non-polarized and the double fuse arrangement was used to insure that that the hot side of the power line was fused regardless of how the AC plug was inserted in the socket. I plan to use a 3-wire 16 AWG power cord for my rebuild, so that isn't an issue for me.. I don't know whether the earliest version of the Valiant had the 1.6 amp fuse in the LV transformer primary or not (mine had it). Except for the antenna relay jack, the only things fed by the line cord are the two transformer primaries. Am I to assume that the primary of the HV transformer could potentially draw 6.4 amps? As part of the rebuild project, I plan to fuse each transformer primary independently for safety reasons. What size fuse should I use for the HV transformer primary? Is 6.4 amps reasonable, or is that overkill. The transmitter isn't built yet, so there's no way to get a ballpark value for a HV primary fuse value. I am replacing the old 866 MV tubes with 3B28s. Another concern: Since the Valiant design switches the primary of the HV transformer, I can see the possibility of some significant switching transients when the transmitter is keyed. Should I use a slow-blow fuse for the HV transformer primary? I would appreciate your input on this issue. Thanks! Mike Harmon, WB0LDJ mharmon at att dot net

The group I mentioned where pictures and files can be stored is here: /g/Vintage-Amateur-Radio-Restoration What I wanted to mention is that I opened up the maximum resolution to 2024 x 2024 or something like that, which should be plenty of resolution for pictures. I also made sure members had permissions to upload and make folders. I recommend making a folder that's descriptive of what files you will put inside it to make it easy to find these. If you just upload a bunch of files, eventually they get scattered in with many others, making it difficult to find what you are looking for. No serious harm is done if you don't do this. It's just considerate to try to do this. We can always move a file or rename a folder. When you upload a file, you can check a box to let the group know you've done this. They will get a link in a post to your files. If you then copy that link you will also get and paste it here in this group, then as long as a member here is in both groups, they will be able to go directly to that file and download it. If it seems complicated, just do what you can and let us know about it. We can fix most anything. :-) Donald KX8K ---------------------------------------------------- Some ham radio groups you may be interested in: /g/ICOM /g/Ham-Antennas /g/HamRadioHelp /g/Baofeng /g/CHIRP https://rf-amplifiers.groups.io/g/main

Any Ranger owners out there who have replaced the rectifier tubes with silicon diodes? If so, did you use dropping resistors to get the voltage back in the original range and if so, what resistance values did you use? Please - I just want to know the answer to that and don't need responses as to why that's a terrible idea. I know what the voltage drop across the tubes should be and know how to size the resistors, but the question is: what did YOU find to be good? Thanks. 73, K8AC

The following documents a modification I made to my Ranger to improve CW operation. This modification is useful to those who operate CW with their Ranger and DO NOT use an antenna relay controlled by the Ranger. With the modification, if you’re using a Johnson or B&W T/R switch instead of an antenna relay, you’ll be able to leave the Ranger in CW mode and zero beat the VFO by just turning the Crystal/VFO switch to ZERO. In stock form, to zero the VFO on a station you’re listening to you have to move two switches. First, turn the Operate switch to Standby. That removes the screen voltage from the final tube by grounding the plate of the clamp tube V6. Then you have to move the Crystal/VFO switch to ZERO to key the transmitter. The goal is to eliminate one of these switch operations so all we have to do is turn the Crystal/VFO switch (SW2) to ZERO and we zero beat the VFO without any output to the antenna. First, locate the yellow wire connected to pin 5 of SW2. Clip both ends (note the terminal strip terminal it’s connected to). Next, remove the yellow wire from SW2 pin 4 and connect that end to terminal 6 of the terminal strip where the C22 is (this is the terminal you just clipped the wire from). The result is that the VFO output is now always connected to the grid of V3. Next, remove the wires attached to SW2 switch positions 1 through 6 (including the jumpers between pins). Clip both ends. That removes the ability to use crystal control for the Ranger, but frees up switch contacts needed in the following steps. Next, run a wire from pin 4 of SW2 to ground. Next, run a wire from pin 5 of the clamp tube (V6) to pin 6 of SW2. Now when SW2 is switched to the ZERO position, pin 4 is connected to pin 6, grounding the plate of V6 and cutting off the screen voltage to the final tube. The result is the VFO is turned on and the final is turned off. 73, Floyd - K8AC