Work to be done ...
?
? About 10 watts into the TX jack and then on to a 50Ω dummy load from the Antenna jack
? Yields about 9.8 Vpp / 3.5 Vrms? across 50Ω into my scope (thankfully not my receiver)
?
Any suggestions? The filter caps (C12) are new. I guess I could live with the waveform, but not the amplitude.
Jeff
W8KZW
|
Johnson Viking Valliant 1 For Sale
For Sale: Johnson Viking Valiant 1
?
? ? ?This radio is in good overall shape and appears to be complete. ?It is untested.?? Condition is commensurate with age with some “patina”, especially on the rear panel.?? All knobs move easily.? It has been in dry storage for 10+ years.
?
? ? ?There appears to be extra switch on the front panel placed there by the prior owner.? Additionally, there appears to be one 6-pin tube missing, and another was replaced by what appears to be an R/C network.
??
? ? Because of the above, the radio is being sold for “parts-only”, although I believe that it would be a very good base for a high-fidelity AM transmitter.?
?
? ?Asking $75.00, pick-up or meet-up in Metro-west Boston. ?Other delivery and meet -up arrangements are possible.? I would like to see it go to a good home.?
?
73,
Gene K1NR
|
Hi Sully ,
No, I have (3) of the Johnson TR switches. ?I’m talking about a device called the Signal Sentry. ?It’s basically a keying monitor, but it has other benefits as well.
I’d like to find one in working condition to experiment with.
73,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 6, 2025, at 09:42, Robert Nickels via groups.io <ranickels@...> wrote:
?
Anyone contemplating using the EF Johnson T/R
switch with anything other than a tube-type receiver should read
Tom Rauch W8JI's comments:
Not wanting to inadvertently ruin an expensive SDR
receiver,? I designed my own version of an SDR protector,?
drawing from the MFJ and other designs.?? It's worked flawlessly
for a number of years but? there is a 3dB loss due to the
splitter.? For HF use, that's never a problem since the noise
floor is the limiting factor when using any modern receiver.
73, Bob W9RAN
|
Anyone contemplating using the EF Johnson T/R
switch with anything other than a tube-type receiver should read
Tom Rauch W8JI's comments:
Not wanting to inadvertently ruin an expensive SDR
receiver,? I designed my own version of an SDR protector,?
drawing from the MFJ and other designs.?? It's worked flawlessly
for a number of years but? there is a 3dB loss due to the
splitter.? For HF use, that's never a problem since the noise
floor is the limiting factor when using any modern receiver.
73, Bob W9RAN
|
Could you be talking about the Johnson T/R switch? I have one of those and am in the process of setting up an AM station with a Viking I transmitter and this switch. Right now I am trying to decide which receiver from the era I want to rebuild to go with it. I am laid up right now and unable to run down to the shack to get more info on it but I will attach a schematic here. Unable to access the manual from here.
----- Original Message -----
Date: 03/05/25 21:45 Subject: Re: [EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio] Feasibility Study? Mike,
Have you ever heard of a Johnson Signal Sentry? ?I just found out about them today, and the operation sounds intriguing. ?Apparently, the gadget mutes the receiver during transmit and sends an audio “sidetone” to the phones or speaker.
I’ve never used one or even seen one, but now I’m going to try to find one to check it out. ?I’m not a rabid CW op (I just barely managed to pass the Extra Class CW test years ago), but I like the concept of QSK.
Actually, I’ve been licensed since 1968, but haven’t been on CW for years. ?I spend way more time at the bench building or repairing gear.
I’m currently in the process of “re-kitting” a Johnson Valiant I that I plan to use as an AM/CW rig on 160/80/40m with my Collins R-388 receiver.
I just love to tinker and build things, and the QSK project is just a challenge for my engineering expertise!
Wish me luck! 73, Mike, WB0LDJi
On Mar 5, 2025, at 19:49, Mike Langner via groups.io <mlangner=[email protected]> wrote:
? OK – noting that you’re thinking of using the HV FET to open the B+, I would ask two questions, please.
If you’re inclined to do it this way, might you consider just killing the audio output state’s screen grid voltage instead? ?
And I’d wonder about what if the FET fails. If the only place it could send B+ if it shorts is the T-R switch, there’s likely no harm done. ?If the circuit you choose could be damaged by the application of B+ in the event of an FET failure, Murphy’s Law says, “if it can fail, it will fail.” ?I guess this caution comes from my many trips up New Mexico mountaintops because as Murphy says, the more consequential a failure will be the more likely a failure will take place!
And how fast is the relay ? ?Using transistors as switches and eliminating the relay altogether would seem to be the way to go. I think you’re on to something here!!
Just a couple more thoughts!
Mike/
K5MGR
___________________________________________ Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
Hi Mike,
I’ve been thinking of alternative ways of doing what I wanted to accomplish. ?As constructed, the Collins R-388 receiver has a terminal strip on the rear apron that is connected to a DC relay inside the receiver, in series with a front panel switch labeled “Break-In”. ?When activated, this relay does two things:
1. ? It shorts out the receiver front-end 2. ?It disconnects B+ from the receiver audio circuits.
I have a few 900 V FETs, so I am thinking of using a FET to kill the B+ to the audio circuits. ?The TR switch should take care of the front end.
That way, I could eliminate the relay in the receiver altogether and use a DC signal from the TR switch to trigger the FET. ?Heck, I could even add a bipolar switch to ground the RF input, and then I could be sure that I didn’t have any RF bleed-through from the TR switch.
The DC control line from the TR switch to the receiver would be triggered by the incoming transmit RF.
On Mar 4, 2025, at 17:10, Mike Langner via groups.io <mlangner@...> wrote:
? Hmmm.
Interesting idea !
Please allow me to share two thoughts.
If you sense voltage across the key rather than at the “Probe” port, you’ll preclude any even small delay in reducing receiver gain.
Using a pot in series with the receiver Standby switch could be problematical depending what receiver you’re using. ?Reducing the voltage enough to lower the gain/volume enough could and likely would stop the oscillator(s) in the receiver.
Assuming a tube-type receiver, opening the cathode of the first RF stage if there is one, or if there isn’t one, opening the cathode of one or more IF amplifiers or putting a pot there to allow for just the slightest conduction by the tube(s) likely would do better for you.
In my novice days for a year or so when I was a student with no money to spend on ham radio to speak of, I used a Knight T-50 with an NC-57B. ?Lowering the gain of the receiver’s RF stage when the transmitter was keyed worked well for me.
Also, if all the B+ goes through your pot (including the audio output stage) your pot will have to be more than the garden-variety 2-watt carbon pot.
Just musing out loud!
You’re on it!!
73 and Good Luck!
Mike/
________________________________ Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
I was thinking of rectifying the voltage from the "Probe" port on the TR Switch to turn on a transistor, which would apply a control voltage across a small relay. The relay would switch in a potentiometer in series with the receiver Standby switch to control the allowed RF gain on transmit for monitoring my signal. An R/C circuit with a 2nd variable resistor on "break" to adjust the time constant might act as an "AGC" function for more pleasant listening.
I'm actually hoping just to get my homebrew 6DQ6 TX / Drake 2B RX combo working in time for Novice Rig Roundup and Classic Exchange.
|
Mike,
Have you ever heard of a Johnson Signal Sentry? ?I just found out about them today, and the operation sounds intriguing. ?Apparently, the gadget mutes the receiver during transmit and sends an audio “sidetone” to the phones or speaker.
I’ve never used one or even seen one, but now I’m going to try to find one to check it out. ?I’m not a rabid CW op (I just barely managed to pass the Extra Class CW test years ago), but I like the concept of QSK.
Actually, I’ve been licensed since 1968, but haven’t been on CW for years. ?I spend way more time at the bench building or repairing gear.
I’m currently in the process of “re-kitting” a Johnson Valiant I that I plan to use as an AM/CW rig on 160/80/40m with my Collins R-388 receiver.
I just love to tinker and build things, and the QSK project is just a challenge for my engineering expertise!
Wish me luck! 73, Mike, WB0LDJi
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 5, 2025, at 19:49, Mike Langner via groups.io <mlangner@...> wrote:
? OK – noting that you’re thinking of using the HV FET to open the B+, I would ask two questions, please.
If you’re inclined to do it this way, might you consider just killing the audio output state’s screen grid voltage instead??
And I’d wonder about what if the FET fails. If the only place it could send B+ if it shorts is the T-R switch, there’s likely no harm done.? If the circuit you choose could be damaged by the application of B+ in the event of an FET failure, Murphy’s Law says, “if it can fail, it will fail.”? I guess this caution comes from my many trips up New Mexico mountaintops because as Murphy says, the more consequential a failure will be the more likely a failure will take place!
And how fast is the relay ?? Using transistors as switches and eliminating the relay altogether would seem to be the way to go. I think you’re on to something here!!
Just a couple more thoughts!
Mike/
K5MGR
___________________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
? ? Hi Mike, I’ve been thinking of alternative ways of doing what I wanted to accomplish. ?As constructed, the Collins R-388 receiver has a terminal strip on the rear apron that is connected to a DC relay inside the receiver, in series with a front panel switch labeled “Break-In”. ?When activated, this relay does two things: 1. ? It shorts out the receiver front-end 2. ?It disconnects B+ from the receiver audio circuits. I have a few 900 V FETs, so I am thinking of using a FET to kill the B+ to the audio circuits. ?The TR switch should take care of the front end. That way, I could eliminate the relay in the receiver altogether and use a DC signal from the TR switch to trigger the FET. ?Heck, I could even add a bipolar switch to ground the RF input, and then I could be sure that I didn’t have any RF bleed-through from the TR switch. The DC control line from the TR switch to the receiver would be triggered by the incoming transmit RF.
On Mar 4, 2025, at 17:10, Mike Langner via groups.io <mlangner@...> wrote:
? Hmmm.
Interesting idea !
Please allow me to share two thoughts.
If you sense voltage across the key rather than at the “Probe” port, you’ll preclude any even small delay in reducing receiver gain.
Using a pot in series with the receiver Standby switch could be problematical depending what receiver you’re using.? Reducing the voltage enough to lower the gain/volume enough could and likely would stop the oscillator(s) in the receiver.
Assuming a tube-type receiver, opening the cathode of the first RF stage if there is one, or if there isn’t one, opening the cathode of one or more IF amplifiers or putting a pot there to allow for just the slightest conduction by the tube(s) likely would do better for you.
In my novice days for a year or so when I was a student with no money to spend on ham radio to speak of, I used a Knight T-50 with an NC-57B.? Lowering the gain of the receiver’s RF stage when the transmitter was keyed worked well for me.
Also, if all the B+ goes through your pot (including the audio output stage) your pot will have to be more than the garden-variety 2-watt carbon pot.
Just musing out loud!
You’re on it!!
73 and Good Luck!
Mike/
________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
? ? I was thinking of rectifying the voltage from the "Probe" port on the TR Switch to turn on a transistor, which would apply a control voltage across a small relay. The relay would switch in a potentiometer in series with the receiver Standby switch to control the allowed RF gain on transmit for monitoring my signal. An R/C circuit with a 2nd variable resistor on "break" to adjust the time constant might act as an "AGC" function for more pleasant listening. I'm actually hoping just to get my homebrew 6DQ6 TX / Drake 2B RX combo working in time for Novice Rig Roundup and Classic Exchange.
|
OK – noting that you’re thinking of using the HV FET to open the B+, I would ask two questions, please.
If you’re inclined to do it this way, might you consider just killing the audio output state’s screen grid voltage instead??
And I’d wonder about what if the FET fails. If the only place it could send B+ if it shorts is the T-R switch, there’s likely no harm done.? If the circuit you choose could be damaged by the application of B+ in the event of an FET failure, Murphy’s Law says, “if it can fail, it will fail.”? I guess this caution comes from my many trips up New Mexico mountaintops because as Murphy says, the more consequential a failure will be the more likely a failure will take place!
And how fast is the relay ?? Using transistors as switches and eliminating the relay altogether would seem to be the way to go. I think you’re on to something here!!
Just a couple more thoughts!
Mike/
K5MGR
___________________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike Harmon
Sent: Wednesday, March 5, 2025 6:10 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio] Feasibility Study?? Hi Mike, I’ve been thinking of alternative ways of doing what I wanted to accomplish. ?As constructed, the Collins R-388 receiver has a terminal strip on the rear apron that is connected to a DC relay inside the receiver, in series with a front panel switch labeled “Break-In”. ?When activated, this relay does two things: 1. ? It shorts out the receiver front-end 2. ?It disconnects B+ from the receiver audio circuits. I have a few 900 V FETs, so I am thinking of using a FET to kill the B+ to the audio circuits. ?The TR switch should take care of the front end. That way, I could eliminate the relay in the receiver altogether and use a DC signal from the TR switch to trigger the FET. ?Heck, I could even add a bipolar switch to ground the RF input, and then I could be sure that I didn’t have any RF bleed-through from the TR switch. The DC control line from the TR switch to the receiver would be triggered by the incoming transmit RF.
On Mar 4, 2025, at 17:10, Mike Langner via groups.io <mlangner@...> wrote:
? Hmmm.
Interesting idea !
Please allow me to share two thoughts.
If you sense voltage across the key rather than at the “Probe” port, you’ll preclude any even small delay in reducing receiver gain.
Using a pot in series with the receiver Standby switch could be problematical depending what receiver you’re using.? Reducing the voltage enough to lower the gain/volume enough could and likely would stop the oscillator(s) in the receiver.
Assuming a tube-type receiver, opening the cathode of the first RF stage if there is one, or if there isn’t one, opening the cathode of one or more IF amplifiers or putting a pot there to allow for just the slightest conduction by the tube(s) likely would do better for you.
In my novice days for a year or so when I was a student with no money to spend on ham radio to speak of, I used a Knight T-50 with an NC-57B.? Lowering the gain of the receiver’s RF stage when the transmitter was keyed worked well for me.
Also, if all the B+ goes through your pot (including the audio output stage) your pot will have to be more than the garden-variety 2-watt carbon pot.
Just musing out loud!
You’re on it!!
73 and Good Luck!
Mike/
________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
? ? I was thinking of rectifying the voltage from the "Probe" port on the TR Switch to turn on a transistor, which would apply a control voltage across a small relay. The relay would switch in a potentiometer in series with the receiver Standby switch to control the allowed RF gain on transmit for monitoring my signal. An R/C circuit with a 2nd variable resistor on "break" to adjust the time constant might act as an "AGC" function for more pleasant listening. I'm actually hoping just to get my homebrew 6DQ6 TX / Drake 2B RX combo working in time for Novice Rig Roundup and Classic Exchange.
|
For break-in, I’m thinking that opening and closing circuits with the lowest voltage and least current along with not having capacitors that need to discharge to fully mute the receiver would be best.
I’m assuming you don’t want to monitor the transmitter using the receiver at greatly reduced sensitivity/gain during break-in operation
So, shorting out the front end AND killing the audio makes sense. Real world, with a properly operating T-R switch, you shouldn’t have to short the antenna terminals.? I do, however, always place an NE-2 (B2-A) lamp across receiver antenna terminals just for safety.
Shorting out the audio signal to the audio stage might do what you want to accomplish with lots less wear-and-tear on relay contacts, I would think.
I operate with very fast break in – not “semi-break-in,” so I can hear between letters if the other station sends a string of dots to get my attention.
Depending on how fast the break-in operation you prefer operates, what you’re suggesting could work well.
My only concern would be if the relay’s designed for as many operations as break-in creates compared with non-break-in cw or with phone.
Just my thoughts!
Mike/
__________________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike Harmon
Sent: Wednesday, March 5, 2025 6:10 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio] Feasibility Study?? Hi Mike, I’ve been thinking of alternative ways of doing what I wanted to accomplish. ?As constructed, the Collins R-388 receiver has a terminal strip on the rear apron that is connected to a DC relay inside the receiver, in series with a front panel switch labeled “Break-In”. ?When activated, this relay does two things: 1. ? It shorts out the receiver front-end 2. ?It disconnects B+ from the receiver audio circuits. I have a few 900 V FETs, so I am thinking of using a FET to kill the B+ to the audio circuits. ?The TR switch should take care of the front end. That way, I could eliminate the relay in the receiver altogether and use a DC signal from the TR switch to trigger the FET. ?Heck, I could even add a bipolar switch to ground the RF input, and then I could be sure that I didn’t have any RF bleed-through from the TR switch. The DC control line from the TR switch to the receiver would be triggered by the incoming transmit RF.
On Mar 4, 2025, at 17:10, Mike Langner via groups.io <mlangner@...> wrote:
? Hmmm.
Interesting idea !
Please allow me to share two thoughts.
If you sense voltage across the key rather than at the “Probe” port, you’ll preclude any even small delay in reducing receiver gain.
Using a pot in series with the receiver Standby switch could be problematical depending what receiver you’re using.? Reducing the voltage enough to lower the gain/volume enough could and likely would stop the oscillator(s) in the receiver.
Assuming a tube-type receiver, opening the cathode of the first RF stage if there is one, or if there isn’t one, opening the cathode of one or more IF amplifiers or putting a pot there to allow for just the slightest conduction by the tube(s) likely would do better for you.
In my novice days for a year or so when I was a student with no money to spend on ham radio to speak of, I used a Knight T-50 with an NC-57B.? Lowering the gain of the receiver’s RF stage when the transmitter was keyed worked well for me.
Also, if all the B+ goes through your pot (including the audio output stage) your pot will have to be more than the garden-variety 2-watt carbon pot.
Just musing out loud!
You’re on it!!
73 and Good Luck!
Mike/
________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
? ? I was thinking of rectifying the voltage from the "Probe" port on the TR Switch to turn on a transistor, which would apply a control voltage across a small relay. The relay would switch in a potentiometer in series with the receiver Standby switch to control the allowed RF gain on transmit for monitoring my signal. An R/C circuit with a 2nd variable resistor on "break" to adjust the time constant might act as an "AGC" function for more pleasant listening. I'm actually hoping just to get my homebrew 6DQ6 TX / Drake 2B RX combo working in time for Novice Rig Roundup and Classic Exchange.
|
Hi Mike,
I’ve been thinking of alternative ways of doing what I wanted to accomplish. ?As constructed, the Collins R-388 receiver has a terminal strip on the rear apron that is connected to a DC relay inside the receiver, in series with a front panel switch labeled “Break-In”. ?When activated, this relay does two things:
1. ? It shorts out the receiver front-end 2. ?It disconnects B+ from the receiver audio circuits.
I have a few 900 V FETs, so I am thinking of using a FET to kill the B+ to the audio circuits. ?The TR switch should take care of the front end.
That way, I could eliminate the relay in the receiver altogether and use a DC signal from the TR switch to trigger the FET. ?Heck, I could even add a bipolar switch to ground the RF input, and then I could be sure that I didn’t have any RF bleed-through from the TR switch.
The DC control line from the TR switch to the receiver would be triggered by the incoming transmit RF.
What do you think?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 4, 2025, at 17:10, Mike Langner via groups.io <mlangner@...> wrote:
? Hmmm.
Interesting idea !
Please allow me to share two thoughts.
If you sense voltage across the key rather than at the “Probe” port, you’ll preclude any even small delay in reducing receiver gain.
Using a pot in series with the receiver Standby switch could be problematical depending what receiver you’re using.? Reducing the voltage enough to lower the gain/volume enough could and likely would stop the oscillator(s) in the receiver.
Assuming a tube-type receiver, opening the cathode of the first RF stage if there is one, or if there isn’t one, opening the cathode of one or more IF amplifiers or putting a pot there to allow for just the slightest conduction by the tube(s) likely would do better for you.
In my novice days for a year or so when I was a student with no money to spend on ham radio to speak of, I used a Knight T-50 with an NC-57B.? Lowering the gain of the receiver’s RF stage when the transmitter was keyed worked well for me.
Also, if all the B+ goes through your pot (including the audio output stage) your pot will have to be more than the garden-variety 2-watt carbon pot.
Just musing out loud!
You’re on it!!
73 and Good Luck!
Mike/
________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
? ? I was thinking of rectifying the voltage from the "Probe" port on the TR Switch to turn on a transistor, which would apply a control voltage across a small relay. The relay would switch in a potentiometer in series with the receiver Standby switch to control the allowed RF gain on transmit for monitoring my signal. An R/C circuit with a 2nd variable resistor on "break" to adjust the time constant might act as an "AGC" function for more pleasant listening. I'm actually hoping just to get my homebrew 6DQ6 TX / Drake 2B RX combo working in time for Novice Rig Roundup and Classic Exchange.
|
Hmmm.
Interesting idea !
Please allow me to share two thoughts.
If you sense voltage across the key rather than at the “Probe” port, you’ll preclude any even small delay in reducing receiver gain.
Using a pot in series with the receiver Standby switch could be problematical depending what receiver you’re using.? Reducing the voltage enough to lower the gain/volume enough could and likely would stop the oscillator(s) in the receiver.
Assuming a tube-type receiver, opening the cathode of the first RF stage if there is one, or if there isn’t one, opening the cathode of one or more IF amplifiers or putting a pot there to allow for just the slightest conduction by the tube(s) likely would do better for you.
In my novice days for a year or so when I was a student with no money to spend on ham radio to speak of, I used a Knight T-50 with an NC-57B.? Lowering the gain of the receiver’s RF stage when the transmitter was keyed worked well for me.
Also, if all the B+ goes through your pot (including the audio output stage) your pot will have to be more than the garden-variety 2-watt carbon pot.
Just musing out loud!
You’re on it!!
73 and Good Luck!
Mike/
________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of jeffbauman via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, March 4, 2025 3:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio] Feasibility Study?? I was thinking of rectifying the voltage from the "Probe" port on the TR Switch to turn on a transistor, which would apply a control voltage across a small relay. The relay would switch in a potentiometer in series with the receiver Standby switch to control the allowed RF gain on transmit for monitoring my signal. An R/C circuit with a 2nd variable resistor on "break" to adjust the time constant might act as an "AGC" function for more pleasant listening. I'm actually hoping just to get my homebrew 6DQ6 TX / Drake 2B RX combo working in time for Novice Rig Roundup and Classic Exchange.
|
Hi, Mike,
?
I share your thoughts.
?
I was thinking of rectifying the voltage from the "Probe" port on the TR Switch to turn on a transistor, which would apply a control voltage across a small relay. The relay would switch in a potentiometer in series with the receiver Standby switch to control the allowed RF gain on transmit for monitoring my signal. An R/C circuit with a 2nd variable resistor on "break" to adjust the time constant might act as an "AGC" function for more pleasant listening.
?
I'm actually hoping just to get my homebrew 6DQ6 TX / Drake 2B RX combo working in time for Novice Rig Roundup and Classic Exchange.
?
73,
Jeff
W8KZW
|
Thanks for the reply, Mike.
?
Both sections of C12 were horrible. I had restuffed the can with new caps which explains the OPEN and supports your theory.
?
Jeff
W8KZW
|
Hello Jeff!
From the diagram on the back page of my T-R switch instructions (Figure 2) it appears that Johnson is estimating the DC leakage in C12A and C12B, the power supply filter capacitors.
That would be reasonable indication expectation, particularly for electrolytic capacitors of the time.
But you’re right, absent that, there does not appear to be a DC pathway!
Mike/
K5MGR
______________________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of jeffbauman via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, March 4, 2025 2:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio] Feelin' Like a Dunce? It is one of those "I should know this but ..." questions. For the Johnson 250-39 TR switch, Table I presents the resistance at pins 2 and 5 of the 6BL7 as 100K ohms.? For the life of me, looking at the schematic I don't see how that could be.? Assuming the DC resistance of the RF chokes and toroid to be negligible, where would 100K be coming from? My VOM readings basically show open circuit. (callsign hidden out of embarrassment)
|
It is one of those "I should know this but ..." questions.
?
For the Johnson 250-39 TR switch, Table I presents the resistance at pins 2 and 5 of the 6BL7 as 100K ohms.?
?
For the life of me, looking at the schematic I don't see how that could be.? Assuming the DC resistance of the RF chokes and toroid to be negligible, where would 100K be coming from? My VOM readings basically show open circuit.
?
Thanks,
Jeff
(callsign hidden out of embarrassment)
?
?
|
Watch You Tube vidios on the Viking II.? Only slight difference
is the final loading.
Lee, w0vt
On 3/3/2025 12:55 PM, Sully via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a Viking I transmitter. Anyone know of any videos that
sow how to bring it on line a transmit. It is not as straight
forward as today's amateur gear and I am having trouble finding
anyone who can walk me though the process.
|
I have a Viking I transmitter. Anyone know of any videos that sow how to bring it on line a transmit. It is not as straight forward as today's amateur gear and I am having trouble finding anyone who can walk me though the process.
|
Re: Free -- original Viking I manual
Great – I’ll try ‘em !
Thanks !!
Mike/
K5MGR
____________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike Dinolfo via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2025 10:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio] Free -- original Viking I manual? There are two tektronix user groups where you could offer to sell (or give away) the Tek manuals: Tekscopes, and Tekscopes2.? There's also a Tektronix museum in Oregon that might accept the manuals, and there are some Tekscopes and/or Tekscopes2 group users that have in the past scanned copies of Tektronix manuals for free, or paid, distribution to group members.? So don't set a match to them! The Tekscopes and Tekscopes2 user groups are very active, something like 7000+ members in total.? They deal with all items Tektronix, not just oscilloscopes. On 2/21/25 12:16, Mike Langner via groups.io wrote: Hello everyone !
I have recently acquired in a box of mostly Tektronix manuals (for which I’m also looking for a home) a Johnson Viking I transmitter manual.
It even has the un-numbered page with instructions about how to connect the transmitter to drive “a larger modulator” – a page Johnson inserted between pages 8 and 9.
It's clearly mimeographed, and the pages are light tan, no longer white. The cover has a picture of the transmitter and the typical Johnson red-orange bands across the top and bottom.? It says that it’s CATALOG 705, but the insides are clearly a manual.? Only the top two pages, which are printed on glossy stock, appear to be from a/the catalog, so someone apparently stapled the relevant two pages from the catalog onto and as the front pages of the aging mimeographed Viking I manual.
It also has a page of handwritten notes about how to tune up the transmitter.
I don’t have a Viking I – I have a Valiant and a Navigator, so I don’t need this manual.
So, it’s free to a good home.
If you have a Viking I and would like this manual, please let me know and I’ll send it to you. First responder gets it.
No cost – I just can’t bear to throw away equipment manuals!
Now if you know someone who’d like a cardboard file box full to Tektronix manuals, please tell me.? I’m trying to keep them out of the landfill, too!
Mike/
K5MGR
_________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
?
|
Re: Free -- original Viking I manual
Mike/K5MGR:
There are two tektronix user groups
where you could offer to sell (or give away) the Tek manuals:
Tekscopes, and Tekscopes2.? There's also a Tektronix museum in
Oregon that might accept the manuals, and there are some Tekscopes
and/or Tekscopes2 group users that have in the past scanned copies
of Tektronix manuals for free, or paid, distribution to group
members.? So don't set a match to them!
The Tekscopes and Tekscopes2 user
groups are very active, something like 7000+ members in total.?
They deal with all items Tektronix, not just oscilloscopes.
Mike D? N4MWP
On 2/21/25 12:16, Mike Langner via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello
everyone !
I have recently acquired in a box of mostly Tektronix
manuals (for which I’m also looking for a home) a Johnson
Viking I transmitter manual.
It even has the un-numbered page with instructions about how
to connect the transmitter to drive “a larger modulator” – a
page Johnson inserted between pages 8 and 9.
It's clearly mimeographed, and the pages are light tan, no
longer white. The cover has a picture of the transmitter and
the typical Johnson red-orange bands across the top and
bottom.? It says that it’s CATALOG 705, but the insides are
clearly a manual.? Only the top two pages, which are printed
on glossy stock, appear to be from a/the catalog, so someone
apparently stapled the relevant two pages from the catalog
onto and as the front pages of the aging mimeographed Viking
I manual.
It also has a page of handwritten notes about how to tune up
the transmitter.
I don’t have a Viking I – I have a Valiant and a Navigator,
so I don’t need this manual.
So, it’s free to a good home.
If you have a Viking I and would like this manual, please
let me know and I’ll send it to you. First responder gets
it.
No cost – I just can’t bear to throw away equipment manuals!
Now if you know someone who’d like a cardboard file box full
to Tektronix manuals, please tell me.? I’m trying to keep
them out of the landfill, too!
Mike/
K5MGR
_________________________
?
Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
|
Free -- original Viking I manual
Hello everyone !
I have recently acquired in a box of mostly Tektronix manuals (for which I’m also looking for a home) a Johnson Viking I transmitter manual.
It even has the un-numbered page with instructions about how to connect the transmitter to drive “a larger modulator” – a page Johnson inserted between pages 8 and 9.
It's clearly mimeographed, and the pages are light tan, no longer white. The cover has a picture of the transmitter and the typical Johnson red-orange bands across the top and bottom.? It says that it’s CATALOG 705, but the insides are clearly a manual.? Only the top two pages, which are printed on glossy stock, appear to be from a/the catalog, so someone apparently stapled the relevant two pages from the catalog onto and as the front pages of the aging mimeographed Viking I manual.
It also has a page of handwritten notes about how to tune up the transmitter.
I don’t have a Viking I – I have a Valiant and a Navigator, so I don’t need this manual.
So, it’s free to a good home.
If you have a Viking I and would like this manual, please let me know and I’ll send it to you. First responder gets it.
No cost – I just can’t bear to throw away equipment manuals!
Now if you know someone who’d like a cardboard file box full to Tektronix manuals, please tell me.? I’m trying to keep them out of the landfill, too!
Mike/
K5MGR
_________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
|
Hi Mike.? I also use a T/R switch with my Johnson Ranger and RME 6900 receiver.? I use my Winkeyer USB to solve the muting problem on CW.? It has a facility to activate a PTT output, designed to turn on an amplifier.? You can adjust the timing of the PTT activation so that the PTT line comes active before the first code element is sent.? I use that PTT line with an external relay to mute the receiver.??
?
73, Floyd - K8AC
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Sully - KE0RKM
Mike Langner
Mike Dinolfo
Floyd - K8AC