Re: Wanted to purchase OR Loan
Don't have the meter, but have had great success reproducing meter faces using the Meter software.? You can create custom scales and it also handles the graphics.? It's from Tonne Software and here's a link to their website:
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Hello ?? One of my tekkie guys suggested you check the bias at the grids of the PA tubes ( Pull the HV rectifier)... a quick peek at the schematic shows this should be in the -75 or -80 range.
?? The reason we suggested a bias issue is the PA grids are at around -80 which should pretty well keep the PA tubes close to cut-off ? The clamp tube also gets a bias voltage on pin 1 ( I think) and the clamp circuit is set via R30... Consensus here is the issue is a bias problem...
??? We recommend a check of the PA grid components... ( a couple of resistors, a choke)...
??
Ashley
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for the quick reply on my problem!
My low voltage supply is good and my unadjusted bias is -80. I haven’t diddled with that much because I just built a bucking transformer that lowers the line voltage to 111vac but haven’t wired it in yet. I felt the -80 was a bit high but wanted to concentrate on the bigger screen voltage issue. My HV supply is good at near 700vdc and that will come down a bit with the bucking transformer but not 175.
The only thing I haven’t throughly checked is the clamping circuit because I didn’t feel that it wasn’t the main component to drop the screen supply. The manual’s adjustment proceedure for the clamping circuit requires operation of the amp circuit to 230ma. I feel a bit uncomfortable doing that with over 400vdc on the 6146 screens. I would like to get that down before messing up a pair of finals playing with the clamper circuit.
I’ll definitely take a closer look at the clamper components at your recommendation. I did check the clamper tube (and all the rest of them before firing it up on a variac.
Thanks again,
Tom N5AMA
?
?
Thank You
Kiss-Electronics
Ms Ashley Hall
183 N 5th PL.
Cornelius, Oregon
97113
?
?
W7DUZ
?
?
On Tuesday, March 26, 2024 at 05:28:27 PM PDT, Tom Smith <n5ama@...> wrote:
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for the quick reply on my problem!
My low voltage supply is good and my unadjusted bias is -80. I haven’t diddled with that much because I just built a bucking transformer that lowers the line voltage to 111vac but haven’t wired it in yet. I felt the -80 was a bit high but wanted to concentrate on the bigger screen voltage issue. My HV supply is good at near 700vdc and that will come down a bit with the bucking transformer but not 175.
The only thing I haven’t throughly checked is the clamping circuit because I didn’t feel that it wasn’t the main component to drop the screen supply. The manual’s adjustment proceedure for the clamping circuit requires operation of the amp circuit to 230ma. I feel a bit uncomfortable doing that with over 400vdc on the 6146 screens. I would like to get that down before messing up a pair of finals playing with the clamper circuit.
I’ll definitely take a closer look at the clamper components at your recommendation. I did check the clamper tube (and all the rest of them before firing it up on a variac.
Thanks again,
Tom N5AMA
|
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for the quick reply on my problem!
My low voltage supply is good and my unadjusted bias is -80. I haven’t diddled with that much because I just built a bucking transformer that lowers the line voltage to 111vac but haven’t wired it in yet. I felt the -80 was a bit high but wanted to concentrate on the bigger screen voltage issue. My HV supply is good at near 700vdc and that will come down a bit with the bucking transformer but not 175.
The only thing I haven’t throughly checked is the clamping circuit because I didn’t feel that it wasn’t the main component to drop the screen supply. The manual’s adjustment proceedure for the clamping circuit requires operation of the amp circuit to 230ma. I feel a bit uncomfortable doing that with over 400vdc on the 6146 screens. I would like to get that down before messing up a pair of finals playing with the clamper circuit.
I’ll definitely take a closer look at the clamper components at your recommendation. I did check the clamper tube (and all the rest of them before firing it up on a variac.
Thanks again,
Tom N5AMA
|
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the reply!! I started working this V2 with the phase 1 recommendations of the “wireless girl”. I made a lot of those mods but had to work through a lot of undocumented mods from a previous owner. He/she wasn’t very careful with solder joints so had a few of those issues to work out. It was in decent cosmetic condition so I didn’t expect to find a nest of mods. I guess there was a possibility that the mods didn’t work well (or didn’t work at all) so the radio didn’t get much use. LOL
The screen voltage does drop when the changing resistance but not low enough to get the 175 needed.
Thanks again,
Tom n5ama?
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Hi Tom,
I've repaired and
restored a few of these rigs, but it's been a while.? I read
what you're saying, but my old mind is having trouble putting it
all together without opening one of those rigs.? I don't have
the appropriate context set in my mind.
But, here's a link that
I use and follow when working thru a problem.? It is not what
you were asking exactly, but reading thru it may 'ring a bell'
with you.? It's excellent reference if nothing else.
BTW, are you seeing any
differences in the screen voltage when you are changing the
values of that/those large wire wound resistors?
73 de Steve, NR4M
On 3/26/2024 9:16 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
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I’m still struggling with my V2. I have more recently replaced a
HV power switch. It wasn’t without cost. When removing the front
panel, I neglected to notice the line ?from the knob to the
variable got caught on the meter shunt and stretched it so that
now it’s loose. It didn’t break but it looks like I’ll have to
pull the front off again to repair it. One step forward 2 steps
back.
I can’t get the screen voltage on the 6146s below 425vdc. I think
175 is what the tubes need. I’ve got 600vdc at the slider resister
R13 and Johnson uses a 20k, 20w resister to drop the HV going to
the screens. I’m using the combo 40k and 60k resisters in parallel
to get the drop with no luck. In trying to reduce this voltage to
175, I pulled the 60k out and left the 40k in which is 20k more
than the original dropping resistor.
The mod uses the 40k in its original position coming off of R13
and places the 60k off of T4 to improve the screen supply of the
6146s. I’ve tried it both ways including the original
configuration with increased resistance with no luck.
Do we have any V2 experts to explain what I’m missing here? ?I
just don’t see the resistance needed here doing what it needs to
do dropping that voltage from 600 to 175.
Thanks,
Tom N5AMA
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Hello ?? Do we have any V2 experts to explain what I’m missing here? ?I just don’t see the resistance needed here doing what it needs to do dropping that voltage from 600 to 175.
What WE suggest is :
1) Check all the low voltage supplies ( + 300)
2) Check the Bias supply( - 75 or so) and R15, R16, R17( Check each tap) Perform the bias adjustment procedure per the book.
3) Check to see the Clamp adjustment is working per the manual
4) Check resistors in the Clamp circuit
5) Check HV and its components
6) If you have the tubes, swap the clamp tube, bias rectifier: note changes, if any.
We suspect this is a PA bias circuit issue...
Thank You
Ms Ashley Hall
Owner
?
?
Thank You
Kiss-Electronics
Ms Ashley Hall
183 N 5th PL.
Cornelius, Oregon
97113
?
?
W7DUZ
?
?
On Tuesday, March 26, 2024 at 06:16:42 AM PDT, Tom Smith <n5ama@...> wrote:
I’m still struggling with my V2. I have more recently replaced a HV power switch. It wasn’t without cost. When removing the front panel, I neglected to notice the line ?from the knob to the variable got caught on the meter shunt and stretched it so that now it’s loose. It didn’t break but it looks like I’ll have to pull the front off again to repair it. One step forward 2 steps back.
I can’t get the screen voltage on the 6146s below 425vdc. I think 175 is what the tubes need. I’ve got 600vdc at the slider resister R13 and Johnson uses a 20k, 20w resister to drop the HV going to the screens. I’m using the combo 40k and 60k resisters in parallel to get the drop with no luck. In trying to reduce this voltage to 175, I pulled the 60k out and left the 40k in which is 20k more than the original dropping resistor.
The mod uses the 40k in its original position coming off of R13 and places the 60k off of T4 to improve the screen supply of the 6146s. I’ve tried it both ways including the original configuration with increased resistance with no luck.
Do we have any V2 experts to explain what I’m missing here? ?I just don’t see the resistance needed here doing what it needs to do dropping that voltage from 600 to 175.
Thanks,
Tom N5AMA
|
I’m still struggling with my V2. I have more recently replaced a HV power switch. It wasn’t without cost. When removing the front panel, I neglected to notice the line ?from the knob to the variable got caught on the meter shunt and stretched it so that now it’s loose. It didn’t break but it looks like I’ll have to pull the front off again to repair it. One step forward 2 steps back.
I can’t get the screen voltage on the 6146s below 425vdc. I think 175 is what the tubes need. I’ve got 600vdc at the slider resister R13 and Johnson uses a 20k, 20w resister to drop the HV going to the screens. I’m using the combo 40k and 60k resisters in parallel to get the drop with no luck. In trying to reduce this voltage to 175, I pulled the 60k out and left the 40k in which is 20k more than the original dropping resistor.
The mod uses the 40k in its original position coming off of R13 and places the 60k off of T4 to improve the screen supply of the 6146s. I’ve tried it both ways including the original configuration with increased resistance with no luck.
Do we have any V2 experts to explain what I’m missing here? ?I just don’t see the resistance needed here doing what it needs to do dropping that voltage from 600 to 175.
Thanks,
Tom N5AMA
|
Re: Wanted to purchase OR Loan
Hello
?We are looking to purchase a Johnson VFO 122, working or not. Cosmetic condition not important.
Thank You
Ms Ashley Hall
W7DUZ
?
?
Thank You
Kiss-Electronics
Ms Ashley Hall
183 N 5th PL.
Cornelius, Oregon
97113
?
?
W7DUZ
?
?
On Thursday, February 15, 2024 at 03:23:28 PM PST, Ashley Hall via groups.io <ashley40@...> wrote:
Hello
?We are looking for a Johnson Ranger II panel meter assembly to purchase OR to have one loaned to us so we could copy the meter scale.
Thank You
Ms Ashley Hall
W7DUZ
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Re: Enameled Wire Coils in Johnson Valiant
I removed only the coils on the line cord to make room for a proper 3 wire line cord.
Also added a rear panel fuse holder properly wired in the hot side and also moved the internal fuse to the rear panel.
Everything works great.
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Re: Enameled Wire Coils in Johnson Valiant
The biggest issue was the designs that used 21 Mc
as the IF frequency. Nothing could fix that issue.
IIRC, the FCC finally stepped in and the problem went
away, eventually.
73, Dick, W1KSZ
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Back in the early 1970s, we had TVI problems when operating on 15 meters.? The third harmonic fell on TV channel 3 and most transmitters of the day radiated considerable energy on channel 3.? The Drake T4 transmitter was a terrible offender.? At that time,
I acquired a Valiant, which had considerable attention paid to suppressing harmonic radiation.? The cabinet sealed well to the chassis and front panel and the coils you mention along with the bypass capacitors prevented radiation from any wires connected to
the rear panel.? I believe there were even metal cans around the rear of the meters.? When I installed and tested the Valiant, there was ZERO interference on channel 3 and it remained my transmitter of choice for a long time.? I guess there's no pressing reason
to keep the coils in place today, but I'd keep them anyway.
73, Floyd - K8AC
Former owner of Navigator, Ranger 1, Ranger 2, Valiant 1, Challenger.
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Re: Enameled Wire Coils in Johnson Valiant
Back in the early 1970s, we had TVI problems when operating on 15 meters.? The third harmonic fell on TV channel 3 and most transmitters of the day radiated considerable energy on channel 3.? The Drake T4 transmitter was a terrible offender.? At that time, I acquired a Valiant, which had considerable attention paid to suppressing harmonic radiation.? The cabinet sealed well to the chassis and front panel and the coils you mention along with the bypass capacitors prevented radiation from any wires connected to the rear panel.? I believe there were even metal cans around the rear of the meters.? When I installed and tested the Valiant, there was ZERO interference on channel 3 and it remained my transmitter of choice for a long time.? I guess there's no pressing reason to keep the coils in place today, but I'd keep them anyway.
73, Floyd - K8AC
Former owner of Navigator, Ranger 1, Ranger 2, Valiant 1, Challenger.
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Re: Enameled Wire Coils in Johnson Valiant
I would not remove them or change them out. They will lower the value of the transmitter and also may cause other in circuit issues that the manufacturer was aware of while design phase of this airloom..
James Byrnes
On Sun, Feb 18, 2024 at 10:22 PM, Mike Harmon <mharmon@...> wrote: I recently purchased a Valiant transmitter that I'm refurbishing.? As you all know, the transmitter is full of 1/2" diameter coils made of enameled wire.? I've been told by a reputable source that the coils were originally there to prevent TVI.? I asked them if they should be replaced by molded RF chokes, and if so, what value should be used.? They told me that the coils could be eliminated when I was in there making updates to the transmitter.
I'd like to ask the folks here if any of you have removed those coils, and if so, ever found any problems.? I would love to remove them, because there are several places like the ACC socket on the rear apron, where they are really in the way inside the chassis.
Thanks!
Mike, WB0LDJ
mharmon at att dot net
--
James Byrnes
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Enameled Wire Coils in Johnson Valiant
I recently purchased a Valiant transmitter that I'm refurbishing.? As you all know, the transmitter is full of 1/2" diameter coils made of enameled wire.? I've been told by a reputable source that the coils were originally there to prevent TVI.? I asked them if they should be replaced by molded RF chokes, and if so, what value should be used.? They told me that the coils could be eliminated when I was in there making updates to the transmitter.
I'd like to ask the folks here if any of you have removed those coils, and if so, ever found any problems.? I would love to remove them, because there are several places like the ACC socket on the rear apron, where they are really in the way inside the chassis.
Thanks!
Mike, WB0LDJ
mharmon at att dot net
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Yes it would be.? I'm hoping to find one somewhere in the East
where I can drive for a pickup.
On 2/18/2024 8:20 PM, bill kipping via
groups.io wrote:
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I
have two Invaders not 200s just Invaders as the only?
designations were the Invader and the Invader 2000. complete not
tested. Shipping would be EXPENSIVE from SD?
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Yes, but you must buy the pair.? I'm interested in just one.
On 2/18/2024 10:25 PM, Rick Boswell,
K8EZB wrote:
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Chuck Hurley, K1TLI, has two for sale. Google Johnson Radio
Restorations.?
Rick
K8EZB
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Chuck Hurley, K1TLI, has two for sale. Google Johnson Radio Restorations.?
Rick
K8EZB
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I have two Invaders not 200s just Invaders as the only? designations were the Invader and the Invader 2000. complete not tested. Shipping would be EXPENSIVE from SD?
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Floyd, I'm curious about whether the scammer was one of our members? Have you advertised anywhere else? Can you email me privately with the scammer's message with its email address and I'll check it against our membership list? Donald KX8K On Sun, 18 Feb 2024 13:03:22 -0800, "Floyd - K8AC" <floydsense@...> wrote: Anyone have an Invader 200 they'd part with?
73, Floyd - K8AC
---------------------------------------------------- Some ham radio groups you may be interested in: /g/ICOM /g/Ham-Antennas/g/HamRadioHelp /g/Baofeng/g/CHIRP
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A scammer response already - within 15 minutes!? If you send me an email, please include your call sign.? If you don't have an email address on QRZ.com, I'll not respond.
73, Floyd - K8AC
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Anyone have an Invader 200 they'd part with?
73, Floyd - K8AC
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Floyd - K8AC
Dick