Hello Jeff!
From the diagram on the back page of my T-R switch instructions (Figure 2) it appears that Johnson is estimating the DC leakage in C12A and C12B, the power supply filter capacitors.
That would be reasonable indication expectation, particularly for electrolytic capacitors of the time.
But you¡¯re right, absent that, there does not appear to be a DC pathway!
Mike/
K5MGR
______________________________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of jeffbauman via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, March 4, 2025 2:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio] Feelin' Like a Dunce? It is one of those "I should know this but ..." questions. For the Johnson 250-39 TR switch, Table I presents the resistance at pins 2 and 5 of the 6BL7 as 100K ohms.? For the life of me, looking at the schematic I don't see how that could be.? Assuming the DC resistance of the RF chokes and toroid to be negligible, where would 100K be coming from? My VOM readings basically show open circuit. (callsign hidden out of embarrassment)
|
It is one of those "I should know this but ..." questions.
?
For the Johnson 250-39 TR switch, Table I presents the resistance at pins 2 and 5 of the 6BL7 as 100K ohms.?
?
For the life of me, looking at the schematic I don't see how that could be.? Assuming the DC resistance of the RF chokes and toroid to be negligible, where would 100K be coming from? My VOM readings basically show open circuit.
?
Thanks,
Jeff
(callsign hidden out of embarrassment)
?
?
|
Watch You Tube vidios on the Viking II.? Only slight difference
is the final loading.
Lee, w0vt
On 3/3/2025 12:55 PM, Sully via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a Viking I transmitter. Anyone know of any videos that
sow how to bring it on line a transmit. It is not as straight
forward as today's amateur gear and I am having trouble finding
anyone who can walk me though the process.
|
I have a Viking I transmitter. Anyone know of any videos that sow how to bring it on line a transmit. It is not as straight forward as today's amateur gear and I am having trouble finding anyone who can walk me though the process.
|
Re: Free -- original Viking I manual
Great ¨C I¡¯ll try ¡®em !
Thanks !!
Mike/
K5MGR
____________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike Dinolfo via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2025 10:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [EFJohnson-Amateur-Radio] Free -- original Viking I manual? There are two tektronix user groups where you could offer to sell (or give away) the Tek manuals: Tekscopes, and Tekscopes2.? There's also a Tektronix museum in Oregon that might accept the manuals, and there are some Tekscopes and/or Tekscopes2 group users that have in the past scanned copies of Tektronix manuals for free, or paid, distribution to group members.? So don't set a match to them! The Tekscopes and Tekscopes2 user groups are very active, something like 7000+ members in total.? They deal with all items Tektronix, not just oscilloscopes. On 2/21/25 12:16, Mike Langner via groups.io wrote: Hello everyone !
I have recently acquired in a box of mostly Tektronix manuals (for which I¡¯m also looking for a home) a Johnson Viking I transmitter manual.
It even has the un-numbered page with instructions about how to connect the transmitter to drive ¡°a larger modulator¡± ¨C a page Johnson inserted between pages 8 and 9.
It's clearly mimeographed, and the pages are light tan, no longer white. The cover has a picture of the transmitter and the typical Johnson red-orange bands across the top and bottom.? It says that it¡¯s CATALOG 705, but the insides are clearly a manual.? Only the top two pages, which are printed on glossy stock, appear to be from a/the catalog, so someone apparently stapled the relevant two pages from the catalog onto and as the front pages of the aging mimeographed Viking I manual.
It also has a page of handwritten notes about how to tune up the transmitter.
I don¡¯t have a Viking I ¨C I have a Valiant and a Navigator, so I don¡¯t need this manual.
So, it¡¯s free to a good home.
If you have a Viking I and would like this manual, please let me know and I¡¯ll send it to you. First responder gets it.
No cost ¨C I just can¡¯t bear to throw away equipment manuals!
Now if you know someone who¡¯d like a cardboard file box full to Tektronix manuals, please tell me.? I¡¯m trying to keep them out of the landfill, too!
Mike/
K5MGR
_________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
?
|
Re: Free -- original Viking I manual
Mike/K5MGR:
There are two tektronix user groups
where you could offer to sell (or give away) the Tek manuals:
Tekscopes, and Tekscopes2.? There's also a Tektronix museum in
Oregon that might accept the manuals, and there are some Tekscopes
and/or Tekscopes2 group users that have in the past scanned copies
of Tektronix manuals for free, or paid, distribution to group
members.? So don't set a match to them!
The Tekscopes and Tekscopes2 user
groups are very active, something like 7000+ members in total.?
They deal with all items Tektronix, not just oscilloscopes.
Mike D? N4MWP
On 2/21/25 12:16, Mike Langner via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello
everyone !
I have recently acquired in a box of mostly Tektronix
manuals (for which I¡¯m also looking for a home) a Johnson
Viking I transmitter manual.
It even has the un-numbered page with instructions about how
to connect the transmitter to drive ¡°a larger modulator¡± ¨C a
page Johnson inserted between pages 8 and 9.
It's clearly mimeographed, and the pages are light tan, no
longer white. The cover has a picture of the transmitter and
the typical Johnson red-orange bands across the top and
bottom.? It says that it¡¯s CATALOG 705, but the insides are
clearly a manual.? Only the top two pages, which are printed
on glossy stock, appear to be from a/the catalog, so someone
apparently stapled the relevant two pages from the catalog
onto and as the front pages of the aging mimeographed Viking
I manual.
It also has a page of handwritten notes about how to tune up
the transmitter.
I don¡¯t have a Viking I ¨C I have a Valiant and a Navigator,
so I don¡¯t need this manual.
So, it¡¯s free to a good home.
If you have a Viking I and would like this manual, please
let me know and I¡¯ll send it to you. First responder gets
it.
No cost ¨C I just can¡¯t bear to throw away equipment manuals!
Now if you know someone who¡¯d like a cardboard file box full
to Tektronix manuals, please tell me.? I¡¯m trying to keep
them out of the landfill, too!
Mike/
K5MGR
_________________________
?
Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
|
Free -- original Viking I manual
Hello everyone !
I have recently acquired in a box of mostly Tektronix manuals (for which I¡¯m also looking for a home) a Johnson Viking I transmitter manual.
It even has the un-numbered page with instructions about how to connect the transmitter to drive ¡°a larger modulator¡± ¨C a page Johnson inserted between pages 8 and 9.
It's clearly mimeographed, and the pages are light tan, no longer white. The cover has a picture of the transmitter and the typical Johnson red-orange bands across the top and bottom.? It says that it¡¯s CATALOG 705, but the insides are clearly a manual.? Only the top two pages, which are printed on glossy stock, appear to be from a/the catalog, so someone apparently stapled the relevant two pages from the catalog onto and as the front pages of the aging mimeographed Viking I manual.
It also has a page of handwritten notes about how to tune up the transmitter.
I don¡¯t have a Viking I ¨C I have a Valiant and a Navigator, so I don¡¯t need this manual.
So, it¡¯s free to a good home.
If you have a Viking I and would like this manual, please let me know and I¡¯ll send it to you. First responder gets it.
No cost ¨C I just can¡¯t bear to throw away equipment manuals!
Now if you know someone who¡¯d like a cardboard file box full to Tektronix manuals, please tell me.? I¡¯m trying to keep them out of the landfill, too!
Mike/
K5MGR
_________________________ ? Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901
(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlangner@...
?
|
Hi Mike.? I also use a T/R switch with my Johnson Ranger and RME 6900 receiver.? I use my Winkeyer USB to solve the muting problem on CW.? It has a facility to activate a PTT output, designed to turn on an amplifier.? You can adjust the timing of the PTT activation so that the PTT line comes active before the first code element is sent.? I use that PTT line with an external relay to mute the receiver.??
?
73, Floyd - K8AC
|
Hello Group,? For sale are a Johnson Thunderbolt and a Johnson Pacemaker.? Both are in excellent, uncorroded or rusted, condition.? Collector quality, except for scratches on the top outer cabinets. Nothing that can't be touched up.? They are just too heavy for me to deal with. Both for $800. Prefer not to separate.? Shipping would be extremely expensive and detrimental to the equipment, so pick up is required.? Located in the South Bay, 6 miles south of LAX.? Can be delivered within 20 mile radius.??
|
Mike:
This sounds like a great project.? If
you haven't already done so, you might want to locate a copy of
the Heathkit HW-16 manual and schematic; this was a full QSK
vacuum tube transmitter-receiver which was thought to have
excellent QSK in its day.
Good luck!
Mike N4MWP
On 2/17/25 01:38, Mike Harmon wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Folks,
?
I don't expect any of you to waste a lot of brain cells on
this idea, but I thought I'd run it by you to see if you
experts might have an idea for me to try:
?
I'm rebuilding a Johnson Valiant I, and after it's
complete, I plan to use it on the 160, 80 and 40 meter bands
as an AM/CW station along with my Collins R-388 (51J-3)
receiver. ? I've never been a fan of Dow-Key relays as a means
of switching antennas from transmit mode to receive mode. Ever
since I was a novice back in the Sixties, I've always liked
using an electronic TR switch. ?Break-in CW used to be sort of
fun back then, and there's no clacking of relays on voice
modes. ?The problem with most TR switch designs is the lack of
receiver muting capability. ?The best TR switch ever built was
the Johnson 250-39, and I have 3 of them! ?They work like a
dream for T/R switching, but there's no way to mute the
receiver during transmit.
?
The R-388 just happens to have a terminal strip on the back
that is connected to a 12 VDC T/R relay inside the receiver.
?When closed, the relay shorts out the front end and kills the
B+ to the later stages to mute the receiver. ?This relay could
easily be changed to a faster, quieter relay if needed. ?The
challenge is - how to activate the relay?
?
Now my brainstorm .... ?The TR switch uses the RF signal to
grid-block a 6BL7 dual triode during transmit, and as soon as
the transmit signal goes away, the 6BL7 reverts to being a
common cathode RF amp. ?Is there any way to use the grid
current in the tube to drive a FET or something similar, which
could then be used to activate the break-in relay in the
receiver? ?I've mulled this idea around for a while, and run
it by some local guys, who mostly just did an eye-roll and
told me to just use a Dow-Key and put up with the howls from
the receiver. ?Well, that's a possibility on CW, but certainly
not on voice.
?
Am I crazy? ?Deluded? ?A wishful thinker? ?I know the
technology is there - I just don't know how to use it!
I don't know how to attach a PDF of the TR switch
schematic, but most of you probably have it anyway.
?
Please tell me what you think.
Thanks!
Mike, WB0LDJ
mharmon at att dot net
|
Hi Folks,
?
I don't expect any of you to waste a lot of brain cells on this idea, but I thought I'd run it by you to see if you experts might have an idea for me to try:
?
I'm rebuilding a Johnson Valiant I, and after it's complete, I plan to use it on the 160, 80 and 40 meter bands as an AM/CW station along with my Collins R-388 (51J-3) receiver. ? I've never been a fan of Dow-Key relays as a means of switching antennas from transmit mode to receive mode. Ever since I was a novice back in the Sixties, I've always liked using an electronic TR switch. ?Break-in CW used to be sort of fun back then, and there's no clacking of relays on voice modes. ?The problem with most TR switch designs is the lack of receiver muting capability. ?The best TR switch ever built was the Johnson 250-39, and I have 3 of them! ?They work like a dream for T/R switching, but there's no way to mute the receiver during transmit.
?
The R-388 just happens to have a terminal strip on the back that is connected to a 12 VDC T/R relay inside the receiver. ?When closed, the relay shorts out the front end and kills the B+ to the later stages to mute the receiver. ?This relay could easily be changed to a faster, quieter relay if needed. ?The challenge is - how to activate the relay?
?
Now my brainstorm .... ?The TR switch uses the RF signal to grid-block a 6BL7 dual triode during transmit, and as soon as the transmit signal goes away, the 6BL7 reverts to being a common cathode RF amp. ?Is there any way to use the grid current in the tube to drive a FET or something similar, which could then be used to activate the break-in relay in the receiver? ?I've mulled this idea around for a while, and run it by some local guys, who mostly just did an eye-roll and told me to just use a Dow-Key and put up with the howls from the receiver. ?Well, that's a possibility on CW, but certainly not on voice.
?
Am I crazy? ?Deluded? ?A wishful thinker? ?I know the technology is there - I just don't know how to use it!
I don't know how to attach a PDF of the TR switch schematic, but most of you probably have it anyway.
?
Please tell me what you think.
Thanks!
Mike, WB0LDJ
mharmon at att dot net
|
Re: Best Microphone(s) For Use With the Ranger II
I myself do not like the d104 that much to much high end for me. I have replaced the elements with electret and some good foam and it makes for a nicer sounding microphone in my opinon. Also you might want to use a Shure 444 or the still made Shure 450 which is what I used on my ranger / desk kilowatt and Viking 500. The price is usually right on the 450s. Last one I bought was new in the box for 40 dollars.?
|
Valiant Fuse Requirements
I have a Valiant I that I'm rebuilding from the ground up.? In the original schematic, Johnson used a double fused plug with two 8A fuses. ? I assume that was because the plug was non-polarized and the double fuse arrangement was used to insure that that the hot side of the power line was fused regardless of how the AC plug was inserted in the socket.? I plan to use a 3-wire 16 AWG power cord for my rebuild, so that isn't an issue for me..
?
I don't know whether the earliest version of the Valiant had the 1.6 amp fuse in the LV transformer primary or not (mine had it).? Except for the antenna relay jack, the only things fed by the line cord are the two transformer primaries.? Am I to assume that the primary of the HV transformer could potentially draw 6.4 amps?
?
As part of the rebuild project, I plan to fuse each transformer primary independently for safety reasons.? What size fuse should I use for the HV transformer primary?? Is 6.4 amps reasonable, or is that overkill.? The transmitter isn't built yet, so there's no way to get a ballpark value for a HV primary fuse value.? I am replacing the old 866 MV tubes with 3B28s.
?
Another concern:? Since the Valiant design switches the primary of the HV transformer, I can see the possibility of some significant switching transients when the transmitter is keyed.? Should I use a slow-blow fuse for the HV transformer primary?
?
I would appreciate your input on this issue.
Thanks!
Mike Harmon, WB0LDJ
mharmon at att dot net
|
Re: The Vintage Restoration group
Please contact me off-list and I can do that for you, then I can report here about the file or files. I'll make one folder called Ashley Hall and I can put multiple files in there. Just name the files so it makes sense what they are, please. You can use wetransfer.com to send them since my email inbox chokes on anything nearing 4 MB. You don't have to register for wetransfer.com, though you can. I have, and I haven't had any issues. Just let me know to expect files from you. I might zip the files together if they all follow the same theme. Donald KX8K On Fri, 31 Jan 2025 07:55:12 +0000 (UTC), "Ashley Hall via groups.io" <Ashley40@...> wrote: I found the group but I have NO idea how to create a file, or upload anything...
Ashley
??Thank YouKiss-ElectronicsMs Ashley Hall183 N 5th PL.Cornelius, Oregon97113??W7DUZ??
On Thursday, January 30, 2025 at 07:21:14 PM PST, Donald Hellen <donhellen@...> wrote:
The group I mentioned where pictures and files can be stored is here:
/g/Vintage-Amateur-Radio-Restoration
What I wanted to mention is that I opened up the maximum resolution to 2024 x
2024 or something like that, which should be plenty of resolution for pictures.
I also made sure members had permissions to upload and make folders. I recommend
making a folder that's descriptive of what files you will put inside it to make
it easy to find these. If you just upload a bunch of files, eventually they get
scattered in with many others, making it difficult to find what you are looking
for. No serious harm is done if you don't do this. It's just considerate to try
to do this. We can always move a file or rename a folder.
When you upload a file, you can check a box to let the group know you've done
this. They will get a link in a post to your files. If you then copy that link
you will also get and paste it here in this group, then as long as a member here
is in both groups, they will be able to go directly to that file and download
it.
If it seems complicated, just do what you can and let us know about it. We can
fix most anything. :-)
Donald KX8K
----------------------------------------------------
Some ham radio groups you may be interested in:
/g/ICOM? /g/Ham-Antennas
/g/HamRadioHelp? ? /g/Baofeng
/g/CHIRP?
---------------------------------------------------- Some ham radio groups you may be interested in: /g/ICOM /g/Ham-Antennas/g/HamRadioHelp /g/Baofeng/g/CHIRP
|
Re: Ranger solid-state rectifiers
Floyd Hello ??? OUR POV is the really high 6146 EP does not get you anything much in terms of RF output, but it does, from our POV, generate a whole pile of HV related issues and problems. ( AKA component stresses). Given that Ranger modulation transformers are less available than chickens with teeth, we err on the side of caution.
??? Yes, we use the +300V solid state regulator from WA3DSP, however the +150 regulator for the VFO screen is moved into the VFO shroud. As we noted earlier, all that gas regulator tube/ dropping resistor monkey-motion is removed and discarded.
???? Thank You very much for your comments.  Ashley
I was concerned about the resulting voltage if the 5R4 is replaced with diodes.? Our line voltage here can be up to 124 VAC and I understand the design line voltage for the Ranger was 115 VAC.? While the 6146 can handle the higher voltage, I think it would exceed the recommended max for the 1614 modulators and who knows the effect on the modulation transformer.? Probably best to pass on the 5R4 replacement.? Regarding the regulated 300V supply - did you use the circuit that WA3DSP published in 2013?? That one regulates the 300V to all circuits and provides 150v regulated for the VFO screen.??
?
?
Thank You
Kiss-Electronics
Ms Ashley Hall
183 N 5th PL.
Cornelius, Oregon
97113
?
?
W7DUZ
?
?
I was concerned about the resulting voltage if the 5R4 is replaced with diodes.? Our line voltage here can be up to 124 VAC and I understand the design line voltage for the Ranger was 115 VAC.? While the 6146 can handle the higher voltage, I think it would exceed the recommended max for the 1614 modulators and who knows the effect on the modulation transformer.? Probably best to pass on the 5R4 replacement.? Regarding the regulated 300V supply - did you use the circuit that WA3DSP published in 2013?? That one regulates the 300V to all circuits and provides 150v regulated for the VFO screen.??
?
I use the Ranger on CW in contests and it took only one such operation to grow tired of the need for two switch operations (Operate switch to STBY, Crystal/VFO switch to ZERO) when doing search-and-pounce operation.? I made a change to the Crystal/VFO switch (eliminated the crystal selection and connected the VFO output to V3 grid all the time) and that freed up some contacts to close the key line when switching to ZERO.? So, now just a single switch operation.?
?
73, Floyd - K8AC
|
Re: Ranger solid-state rectifiers
I was concerned about the resulting voltage if the 5R4 is replaced with diodes.? Our line voltage here can be up to 124 VAC and I understand the design line voltage for the Ranger was 115 VAC.? While the 6146 can handle the higher voltage, I think it would exceed the recommended max for the 1614 modulators and who knows the effect on the modulation transformer.? Probably best to pass on the 5R4 replacement.? Regarding the regulated 300V supply - did you use the circuit that WA3DSP published in 2013?? That one regulates the 300V to all circuits and provides 150v regulated for the VFO screen.??
?
I use the Ranger on CW in contests and it took only one such operation to grow tired of the need for two switch operations (Operate switch to STBY, Crystal/VFO switch to ZERO) when doing search-and-pounce operation.? I made a change to the Crystal/VFO switch (eliminated the crystal selection and connected the VFO output to V3 grid all the time) and that freed up some contacts to close the key line when switching to ZERO.? So, now just a single switch operation.?
?
73, Floyd - K8AC
|
Re: Ranger solid-state rectifiers
Floyd Hello ??? TY for the kind words We retain the 5R4 for two reasons: 1), The additional RF power output achieved with the increase in HV is negligible, and the HV increase puts a strain on HV components, 2)? the danger of high inrush AC primary currents associated with solid state HV rectifier circuits. An inrush current limiter circuit might? negate that possibility.? ?? What WE do, is add a +300V solid state regulated buss module, re-work the VFO/XTAL switch wiring to the Ranger wiring version 2 ( Johnson Keyer, Modulator bias circuit). We re-work the modulator bias circuit to allow for adjustable modulator bias. ? ? If the Ranger did not show up with the sub-chassis installed, we fabricate one. This chassis supports 1) Johnson OEM keyer, 2) Adjustable modulator bias circuit potentiometer. ?? The OEM 6AX5 is removed, its innards removed, some 1N4007 diodes added. This allows the operator, if desired, to use either the solid state re-worked 6AX5 OR the OEM 6AX5 vacuum tube.? No circuit changes necessary.
?? For Ranger wiring version 1( No Keyer or separate modulator bias circuit, no separate modulator bias winding on the power transformer), the sub-panel also supports a small 6VAC /split primary transformer which, when reversed, supplies the modulator bias voltage via a small encapsulated bridge rectifier, a couple of filter capacitors and a 10K miniature potentiometer.?
?? This bias circuit re-work allows that under-chassis HV heater/bleeder/divider resistor to be removed. ( Bye Bye all that heat).
Modulator idle IP is adjusted with the Bias Adjust Potentiometer. ( Book Idle IP is 70ma, we lower that slightly to 55ma).
? ? The OEM PTT circuit goes bye-bye, replaced with a solid state relay driver module, powered by the 6.3V heater circuit. ( Bye Bye more under-chassis heat and the associated power transformer loading) This module lives on the chassis, in the site of the OEM Johnson Logo Placard.
? ? The drive potentiometer is replaced with a solid state module. The VFO gas regulator tube and the associated heater resistor is replaced with a solid state +150VDC regulator circuit. ? ?? VFO oscillator tube socket is replaced with a mil-grade ceramic socket. Old silver mica band-set capacitors are replaced with modern 1% silver mica's. VFO ground circuit is improved. VFO shroud is modified to allow for easy removal in the unlikely event the VFO oscillator tube needs replacing or other VFO servicing is required.
? ?? HV filter circuit consists of (2) 100uf/450V electrolytics,in series, paralleled with (2) 150K 4w resistors.? ? ? LV bleeder function is accomplished via the solid state Drive, VFO solid state regulator and the +300V solid state buss regulator. ? ?? Power transformer loading is substantially reduced, under chassis heat is substantially reduced, VFO internal heat is substantially reduced ( the Johnson VFO becomes much more stable),? ? ? The single point OEM RF grounding scheme also goes bye-bye. RF grounding is a "multiple point" grounding. Keyer chirp goes away.? ? ? None of these fiddly-bits affect the RF power output, modulation % or quality. These modifications are all control related. Our initial goal was to reduce under-chassis component ( AKA bleeder resistors) generated heat, thereby reducing power transformer load.
?? YMMV.
Thank You for letting me post this sorta long ramble. We do not claim to be engineers, and we don't get into debates about the merits ( or lack of) these modifications. We do not modify OEM RF or modulator circuitry. We essentially gut the Ranger, clean the chassis and rebuild.
?? From our POV, the Ranger is a sweet, single 6146, low output aesthetically pleasing, easy to use AM/ CW transmitter. We do not attempt to " put lipstick on a pig", rather we try to re-work the Ranger into bit more robust, longer lasting and a pleasure to use transmitter.
?? We also re-work the 6146 output components, but that is another story.
Ashley
? ? ??
? ?? Thanks, Ashley.? That's another option that I ran across recently and I'll look at that more closely.? I think I have all the components to try it.? Even with the added heat from a dropping resistor, the overall heat reduction from doing away with the tubes should make a big difference.? For now, I'm running with a 120mm muffin fan on top of the cabinet and that does a pretty good job of keeping things cool.? Do you retain the 5R4 for the high voltage rectifier???
?
73, Floyd
?
?
Thank You
Kiss-Electronics
Ms Ashley Hall
183 N 5th PL.
Cornelius, Oregon
97113
?
?
W7DUZ
?
?
Thanks, Ashley.? That's another option that I ran across recently and I'll look at that more closely.? I think I have all the components to try it.? Even with the added heat from a dropping resistor, the overall heat reduction from doing away with the tubes should make a big difference.? For now, I'm running with a 120mm muffin fan on top of the cabinet and that does a pretty good job of keeping things cool.? Do you retain the 5R4 for the high voltage rectifier???
?
73, Floyd
|
Re: Ranger solid-state rectifiers
Thanks, Ashley.? That's another option that I ran across recently and I'll look at that more closely.? I think I have all the components to try it.? Even with the added heat from a dropping resistor, the overall heat reduction from doing away with the tubes should make a big difference.? For now, I'm running with a 120mm muffin fan on top of the cabinet and that does a pretty good job of keeping things cool.? Do you retain the 5R4 for the high voltage rectifier???
?
73, Floyd
|
Re: The Vintage Restoration group
I found the group but I have NO idea how to create a file, or upload anything...
Ashley
?
?
Thank You
Kiss-Electronics
Ms Ashley Hall
183 N 5th PL.
Cornelius, Oregon
97113
?
?
W7DUZ
?
?
The group I mentioned where pictures and files can be stored is here:
What I wanted to mention is that I opened up the maximum resolution to 2024 x
2024 or something like that, which should be plenty of resolution for pictures.
I also made sure members had permissions to upload and make folders. I recommend
making a folder that's descriptive of what files you will put inside it to make
it easy to find these. If you just upload a bunch of files, eventually they get
scattered in with many others, making it difficult to find what you are looking
for. No serious harm is done if you don't do this. It's just considerate to try
to do this. We can always move a file or rename a folder.
When you upload a file, you can check a box to let the group know you've done
this. They will get a link in a post to your files. If you then copy that link
you will also get and paste it here in this group, then as long as a member here
is in both groups, they will be able to go directly to that file and download
it.
If it seems complicated, just do what you can and let us know about it. We can
fix most anything. :-)
Donald KX8K
----------------------------------------------------
Some ham radio groups you may be interested in:
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The Vintage Restoration group
The group I mentioned where pictures and files can be stored is here: /g/Vintage-Amateur-Radio-RestorationWhat I wanted to mention is that I opened up the maximum resolution to 2024 x 2024 or something like that, which should be plenty of resolution for pictures. I also made sure members had permissions to upload and make folders. I recommend making a folder that's descriptive of what files you will put inside it to make it easy to find these. If you just upload a bunch of files, eventually they get scattered in with many others, making it difficult to find what you are looking for. No serious harm is done if you don't do this. It's just considerate to try to do this. We can always move a file or rename a folder. When you upload a file, you can check a box to let the group know you've done this. They will get a link in a post to your files. If you then copy that link you will also get and paste it here in this group, then as long as a member here is in both groups, they will be able to go directly to that file and download it. If it seems complicated, just do what you can and let us know about it. We can fix most anything. :-) Donald KX8K ---------------------------------------------------- Some ham radio groups you may be interested in: /g/ICOM /g/Ham-Antennas/g/HamRadioHelp /g/Baofeng/g/CHIRP
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Mike Langner
Sully - KE0RKM
Mike Dinolfo
Floyd - K8AC