|
Spindle nose was for me.
Thanks Dennis.
|
They have some CNC's now that are nearly as large as a house, maybe bigger. And as for tool and die, those guys use CNC's a lot! There's no war against numeric control in industry.
?OTH it is very sad that you can't find a new maker of manual lathes in America, maybe Hardinge.
?As one whose living rests on the fine work CNC lathes and mills are able to do I still would rather run a manual lathe any day of the week, but I recognize that CNC's are the greatest shortcut to high quality machining in history.
?This large CNC is much like some in Dennis's shop I suspect, and certainly capable of die work, see about 6 minutes in. After that is a huge CNC lathe turning something. Well, many of the Asian lathes I've owned I felt the need to build up the base to raise them so I wouldn't have to bend over to work with them, but that big CNC has a platform for the workers to raise THEM up!?
?This CNC VTL is very large, though I have to admit they made much larger manual ones in England in the 50's.
?A good small lathe will always find a buyer, but with the really big stuff the buyer commissions the building of the lathe based on a particular need. Dad told me about the big lathes used for batleship shafts during WW2 and before, and I've seen photos of them, "Mesta" was their name I think. In the first WW it was Niles Bemont Pond lathes I expect. I wish there were a museum for them, big machines normally get scrapped, and even
?if people want to save them some worthless war will come along and the call will go out to scrap them.
?If I have a job that looks challenging I normally buy enough material for an extra part, in case I screw up. Imagine machining a shaft 4' in diameter x 90' length, the machinist will do that right the first time I think. Hey Dennis, you were around back when that guy had a bunch of those huge machines out in a barn West of Forest Grove 30 years ago, did you ever see that place? The guy got shut down by new neighbors who turned him in for not being zoned for heavy industrial, he paid them back by using the zoning he did have, farming.
?He set up a pig farm right across the road from those city people! (True story)
|
Fooled me, I was responding to a post about CNC's for small parts, that was way back there!
|
|
|
That works amazingly well
|
Looking good.
What's up with that one tooth on the gear in the foreground?? Was it pinned to replace a broken tooth?
|
Dennis:
The check is in the mail.
Thanks,
Joe
On 1/12/22 7:45 PM, Dennis Turk wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
No
pay pal Joe but your check will do just fine.? Send it to
?
Dennis
Turk
PO
Box 683
McMinnville,
Oregon. 97128.
?
And
Glenn your gear went out today and also the spindle nose
protector shipped to WV for the guy that wanted it.? Can’t
remember your name,
sorry.
?
?
Dennis:
That would be fine. Are you a paypal man or a check man?
I'm at 9040 Myers Rd
Centerburg, OH 43011
Thanks,
Joe
On 1/9/22 9:35 PM, Dennis Turk wrote:
Hi
Joe
?
OK
how does $75 and shipping sound.? Can go in a medium
flat rate box for $15.? Dennis
?
?
Hello Dennis:
I saw the apron pictures and the part I need is not there.
I will take the steady rest. I can pay using paypal if that
works for you.
Thanks,
Joe
On 1/8/22 8:46 PM, Dennis Turk wrote:
One
of you guys was asking about steady rest for a Dalton 9
inch.? I just checked and I do have one.? If you look at
the second
picture you can see a small tab is busted off were you
adjust the lower left
finger.? It works OK and also could be repaired by
brazing on a small
piece.??? Let me know ?if the party that was looking for
one wants it.? The design of this steady rest is quite a
bit different
than the ones for the smaller lathes.?? Dennis
?
?
I have a 1925 9” south bend lathe that
had the same bullcone
problem. It had been sitting in storage, since around 1930
and was completely
frozen- as you describe. ?Couple of treatments with Kroll
oil washed out
all the old dried oil and sawdust. ?You are likely dealing
with dried oil
surrounding the bull pin - not mechanical damage. ? Hence
WD 40 had little
effect, as it doesn’t have the penetrating ability of
other solvents. ?You
can also try Spray n Wash. ?it is a common household
cleaner in a green
plastic squeeze bottle. ?It is ?the best dried machine oil
solvent
I’ve ever used. ?Flush liberally and let the fluid run off
the machine
until it comes out clear and bright. Then finish off with
a bit of diesel, to
kill the cleaner, and douse with way oil. ?It’ll be like
new..
Afterwards, You can also squirt the
spray n wash on your
dirty shop clothes before you through them in the
washing machine. ?It
will clean up those oil spots on your t shirts just as
good as your lathe!
Glenn?
On Jan 3, 2022, at 10:17 AM, Ryan Waldt <rwaldt@...>
wrote:
I let the bull/cone gear sit in
wd-40(it what I had, and I
know it for water displacement; I have some Kroil on
the way) the shot pin was
removed(it came out completely) the bull will not
move independently from the
cone gear, how do I decouple the two or should I
retry with the Kroil? Thanks?
|
Yes it is pinned, it has a few missing teeth that need to be fix. My plan is to pin and then build up with Silver solder or brazing I don't know what is better as their are mixed opinions on both. Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated.?
|
Also I forgot to ask,? Dennis do you have a cad/ drawing of the babbitt bearings casting; or a cad/ drawing of the the bearings?
|
Sorry Ryan we never did a drawing for the bearings or do we have
anything from Dalton.? I did make a set of bronze bearings for one head stock
but just copied the original other than the bore.
?
As to the gear teeth I have not repaired any gears though I have
made new ones but not for Daltons rather for a South Bend and one Chinky
lathe.? I would be carful if you braze up the tooth.? You really should have an
invalute gear cutter to machine the tooth after it has been brazed.? I have
some but right now not sure if I? have the correct? number cutter for a Dalton
bull gear.? There are six or seven cutters in a gear cutter set and each one is
for a certain range of tooth count.? Also the back gears are 14 pitch which is
an obsolete size tooth size now days. The gears are also 14 ? degree tooth profile
and modern gears are usually 20 degrees these days.? Difference being the one
is a stronger tooth profile and the other is not as strong but smoother
running.? Dennis
?
?
Also I forgot to ask,? Dennis do you have a cad/
drawing of the babbitt bearings casting; or a cad/ drawing of the the bearings?
|
On Mon, Jan 17, 2022 at 08:50 AM, Dennis Turk wrote:
"Also the back gears are 14 pitch which is an obsolete size tooth size now days. The gears are also 14 ? degree tooth profile and modern gears are usually 20 degrees these days."
I think I have the 14 set, plus one of the old Haas stepper driven rotary tables, accuracy to 1/360th degree. To me it's better to either replace the gear with a ductile iron blank shrunk and screwed in place with 4 setscrews (Turn the old teeth off plus twice again the depth, bore the DI blank to .003" under or so and shrink it on, and run the setscrews between the parting line, little #10s) and then cut the teeth. That's what I did on that Brown lathe but I made the whole gear out of ductile iron, far stronger than the original. ?Having said that I should say the better way would be to talk with a gear hobber, because a generated tooth will be a smoother and quieter tooth. ?Cost maybe $400. Glen
|
Gleeeeeeen? you were suppose to give that Brown lathe to me to
restore.? BuggerJ? To bad we can’t find a really good Dandy lathe to go with your
Brown.? Dennis the trouble maker.
?
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Jan 17, 2022 at 08:50 AM, Dennis Turk wrote:
"Also the back gears are 14 pitch which is an obsolete
size tooth size now days. The gears are also 14 ? degree tooth profile and
modern gears are usually 20 degrees these days."
I think I have the 14 set, plus one of the old Haas stepper
driven rotary tables, accuracy to 1/360th degree. To me it's better to either
replace the gear with a ductile iron blank shrunk and screwed in place with 4
setscrews (Turn the old teeth off plus twice again the depth, bore the DI blank
to .003" under or so and shrink it on, and run the setscrews between the
parting line, little #10s) and then cut the teeth. That's what I did on that
Brown lathe but I made the whole gear out of ductile iron, far stronger than
the original.
?Having said that I should say the better way would be to talk with a gear
hobber, because a generated tooth will be a smoother and quieter tooth.
?Cost maybe $400.
Glen
|
On Mon, Jan 17, 2022 at 07:17 PM, Dennis Turk wrote:
OT
"that Brown lathe" This got me remembering something which people were talking about in the shaper group, that is, how do you keep rust away in an unheated building. I store 2 shapers and 4 lathes in my hangar, which allows the wind to whistle past gaps in the doors. I also store other tools there as well. ?Typically I set a 40 Watt light bulb low under each machine with a blanket over each to hold that slight heat, and that works pretty well except that I've had to replace 3 bulbs in the last two weeks. I also rub bare metal surfaces with one of the three corrosion test winners I keep just for that, Frog lube, Hornady One shot and WD40 Specialist. ?Regardless, the only way to win in the long haul is to moderate temperature shifts, eliminate ambient water vapor plus regular surface prep. A sealed "room" (Cardboard boxes would do) with the one dehumidifier I have would do for that last item. ?In the tool chest I should have placed some camphor, they say that works well at stopping rust and the tool boxes in my shop have camphor in the lowest drawers. ?But now that I know I can't count on 40W light bulbs I bought 8 rectangular heating elements off ebay, a total expenditure (So far) of $96. Each of these are 150W so my thought is to make a rotary switch that energizes each heater in succession for a limited time. These will be clamped onto aluminum plates and placed low so heat rises up under those blankets. ?But I need a way to time these so each machine gets heat (20 minutes?) 3 times a day. This is an acknowledgement that I don't have unlimited $$ or time to spend keeping rust away. ?So I hope to buy one of those inline electrical timers preset-able to run 6 X 20minutes 3 or 4 times a day, it will also activate a gearmotor that turns a dialectic drum with brass commutators, one for each successive machine, and I'd rather not spend weeks building and adjusting it. ?Just what I needed, another project! Any ideas appreciated. An electronic box that would do all the switching would be nice.
|
At my shop at Florence Oregon much like Glens in Tillamook
Oregon humidity is high? most of the time.? Even at my home in the Willamette
Valley Oregon again humidity is high.? At my coast shop I have a Sears
dehumidifier running 24 7 and have had for almost 10 years now.? Not one spec
of rust not even a sign of any patina that develops from a high humidity environment.?
At my Home in the Valley my shop here has a heat source and I keep the set at
62.? As I have high ceilings (14 feet) I also have three ceiling fans that I
run during the winter to keep the heat down at floor level rather than sit up
at the ceiling doing no good.? Again no rust or corrosion problem.? Right now I
have all the restored lathes in my car garage that is unheated but well insulated.?
I am also running a dehumidifier in that building and it’s a large building that
is 26 by 80 feet and the one dehumidifier is doing the job again no sign of any
rust on any of the machines they are still as shinny as they were when I put
them in there two years ago.?
?
I do not put anything on any of the machines they are all bone
dry only a bit of light oil on bar surfaces.? My take on all this is keeping
the humidity at 50% ?or a little under is the key to no rust or corrosion problems
in your shop. I will say one thing these two dehumidifiers I run make a ton of
water they also put out a little heat so that helps.?
?
How these machines work is the is using a fan they pass air over
a coil like an air conditioning system in a home.? First they cycle to the cold
side and freeze the water out of the air passing over the coil.? Once the coil
is almost plugged with ice it then switches to the heat cycle and melts the ice
and the water is either stored in a small tank or as I have done by using a
hose the water is drained off outside of the building.? Once the ice has been
melted it them switches back to freezing. ?During the heating cycle the
humidifier gives off a small amount of heat into the building. ??So this is how
I handle the corrosion problem in a high humidity climate.? You guy down in the
South West have it madeJ? Dennis
?
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Jan 17, 2022 at 07:17 PM, Dennis Turk wrote:
OT
"that Brown lathe"
This got me remembering something which people were talking about in the shaper
group, that is, how do you keep rust away in an unheated building. I store 2
shapers and 4 lathes in my hangar, which allows the wind to whistle past gaps
in the doors. I also store other tools there as well.
?Typically I set a 40 Watt light bulb low under each machine with a
blanket over each to hold that slight heat, and that works pretty well except
that I've had to replace 3 bulbs in the last two weeks. I also rub bare metal
surfaces with one of the three corrosion test winners I keep just for that,
Frog lube, Hornady One shot and WD40 Specialist.
?Regardless, the only way to win in the long haul is to moderate
temperature shifts, eliminate ambient water vapor plus regular surface prep. A
sealed "room" (Cardboard boxes would do) with the one dehumidifier I
have would do for that last item.
?In the tool chest I should have placed some camphor, they say that works
well at stopping rust and the tool boxes in my shop have camphor in the lowest
drawers.
?But now that I know I can't count on 40W light bulbs I bought 8
rectangular heating elements off ebay, a total expenditure (So far) of $96.
Each of these are 150W so my thought is to make a rotary switch that energizes
each heater in succession for a limited time. These will be clamped onto
aluminum plates and placed low so heat rises up under those blankets.
?But I need a way to time these so each machine gets heat (20 minutes?) 3
times a day. This is an acknowledgement that I don't have unlimited $$ or time
to spend keeping rust away.
?So I hope to buy one of those inline electrical timers preset-able to run
6 X 20minutes 3 or 4 times a day, it will also activate a gearmotor that turns
a dialectic drum with brass commutators, one for each successive machine, and
I'd rather not spend weeks building and adjusting it.
?Just what I needed, another project! Any ideas appreciated. An electronic
box that would do all the switching would be nice.
|
As I mentioned I do have a dehumidifier running at the hangar, but our humidity is normally near 100% much of the time and worse, the doors blow fresh vapor in all day every day. The heat from a 40W lamp works very well until they burn out, with alarming rapidity! ?Humidity plus temperature change equals condensation, so if the iron is always warmer than the air around it condensation never happens. ?Like I said I was thinking of making a "Room within a room", complete with a door, so the dehumidifier can keep up. I ran a plastic hose off to a wall so the water built up runs outside where it belongs, but the draft in the hangar keeps fresh high humidity throughout the hangar. ?It's not nice to airplanes either!
At my shop at Florence Oregon much like Glens in Tillamook
Oregon humidity is high? most of the time.? Even at my home in the Willamette
Valley Oregon again humidity is high.? At my coast shop I have a Sears
dehumidifier running 24 7 and have had for almost 10 years now.? Not one spec
of rust not even a sign of any patina that develops from a high humidity environment.?
At my Home in the Valley my shop here has a heat source and I keep the set at
62.? As I have high ceilings (14 feet) I also have three ceiling fans that I
run during the winter to keep the heat down at floor level rather than sit up
at the ceiling doing no good.? Again no rust or corrosion problem.? Right now I
have all the restored lathes in my car garage that is unheated but well insulated.?
I am also running a dehumidifier in that building and it’s a large building that
is 26 by 80 feet and the one dehumidifier is doing the job again no sign of any
rust on any of the machines they are still as shinny as they were when I put
them in there two years ago.?
?
I do not put anything on any of the machines they are all bone
dry only a bit of light oil on bar surfaces.? My take on all this is keeping
the humidity at 50% ?or a little under is the key to no rust or corrosion problems
in your shop. I will say one thing these two dehumidifiers I run make a ton of
water they also put out a little heat so that helps.?
?
How these machines work is the is using a fan they pass air over
a coil like an air conditioning system in a home.? First they cycle to the cold
side and freeze the water out of the air passing over the coil.? Once the coil
is almost plugged with ice it then switches to the heat cycle and melts the ice
and the water is either stored in a small tank or as I have done by using a
hose the water is drained off outside of the building.? Once the ice has been
melted it them switches back to freezing.? During the heating cycle the
humidifier gives off a small amount of heat into the building. ??So this is how
I handle the corrosion problem in a high humidity climate.? You guy down in the
South West have it madeJ? Dennis
?
?
?
On Mon, Jan 17, 2022 at 07:17 PM, Dennis Turk wrote:
OT
"that Brown lathe"
This got me remembering something which people were talking about in the shaper
group, that is, how do you keep rust away in an unheated building. I store 2
shapers and 4 lathes in my hangar, which allows the wind to whistle past gaps
in the doors. I also store other tools there as well.
?Typically I set a 40 Watt light bulb low under each machine with a
blanket over each to hold that slight heat, and that works pretty well except
that I've had to replace 3 bulbs in the last two weeks. I also rub bare metal
surfaces with one of the three corrosion test winners I keep just for that,
Frog lube, Hornady One shot and WD40 Specialist.
?Regardless, the only way to win in the long haul is to moderate
temperature shifts, eliminate ambient water vapor plus regular surface prep. A
sealed "room" (Cardboard boxes would do) with the one dehumidifier I
have would do for that last item.
?In the tool chest I should have placed some camphor, they say that works
well at stopping rust and the tool boxes in my shop have camphor in the lowest
drawers.
?But now that I know I can't count on 40W light bulbs I bought 8
rectangular heating elements off ebay, a total expenditure (So far) of $96.
Each of these are 150W so my thought is to make a rotary switch that energizes
each heater in succession for a limited time. These will be clamped onto
aluminum plates and placed low so heat rises up under those blankets.
?But I need a way to time these so each machine gets heat (20 minutes?) 3
times a day. This is an acknowledgement that I don't have unlimited $$ or time
to spend keeping rust away.
?So I hope to buy one of those inline electrical timers preset-able to run
6 X 20minutes 3 or 4 times a day, it will also activate a gearmotor that turns
a dialectic drum with brass commutators, one for each successive machine, and
I'd rather not spend weeks building and adjusting it.
?Just what I needed, another project! Any ideas appreciated. An electronic
box that would do all the switching would be nice.
|
Have a similar problem here in WV.? Most people don't realize it, but we are surrounded by water.? It's just in the form of creeks and streams.? The soil is mostly mud and retains a lot of moisture.? That and high humidity in the summer.? But, far as I can tell, most of the moisture comes up from the ground through the floor in my shop.? Of course, the previous owner didn't put down a moisture barrier before pouring the floor.
The machinery isn't a huge issue as keeping the surfaces painted or oiled pretty much takes care of that, but it's a real problem with my tools.? Have some gauge blocks that were basically ruined by the time I discovered it along with some other tools that have rusted but may be salvageable.
Before I acquire any more, I need to find a solution.
Best idea I have so far is to dedicate a tool box for the precision stuff.? Plan is to cut the bottoms of the drawers out and replace with metal mesh panels so air can circulate, then build doors that enclose the drawers and seal well or put it all into a small metal cabinet, then put a small peltier dehumidifier in with some fans to circulate air.? Although a heating element sounds like a good idea too, and maybe some dessicant packs.? I figure it won't take all that much power to keep it running and as long as I close it up after taking a tool out, it should stay dry enough.? I'm still thinking it through, but having a small moisture free "box" seems like the easiest approach for now.
|
I have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a couple of long guns in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop. All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid) air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes, below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
|
Glen in 1977 I moved into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.?
I had a shop that was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next
summer I got my first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we experienced the
coldest winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The temp ran below zero
with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.? Not what Oregon is all
aboutL?
Anyway after the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees over night with a steady
rain. That next morning I went out into the shop and what I seen I could not
believe.? There was a steady stream of water running off the spindle of the
mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers, the floor was covered with
water.? So that much cast iron that cold for that long and soon as the temp went
above freezing water stared condensing out of the air all over the mill.? What
a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool box rusted every piece of metal in the
shop had water standing on it or running off it. Never seen that before or
since but that is what can happen to frozen metal then subjected to very worm
most air.? Oh and learned to hate that induma mill but it was the start of Turk
Mfg.J? Dennis
?
?
I have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a
couple of long guns in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the
environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
|
I agree Dennis. I also live in Oregon ?(A wee south of the Turk steading) My shop is a separate building unheated. ?Each fall I douse every machine and most tools in oil as a winter treatment. ?Come spring it takes a week of clean up. ?Even at that I can get flash rust on things and spend a lot of time ?with Scotch Brite. ? ?As to my guns, I got tired of the cold gunsafe and built a dedicated, heated, Gun Room ?and have had no problems ?with rust there since. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Glen in 1977 I moved into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.?
I had a shop that was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next
summer I got my first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we experienced the
coldest winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The temp ran below zero
with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.? Not what Oregon is all
aboutL?
Anyway after the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees over night with a steady
rain. That next morning I went out into the shop and what I seen I could not
believe.? There was a steady stream of water running off the spindle of the
mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers, the floor was covered with
water.? So that much cast iron that cold for that long and soon as the temp went
above freezing water stared condensing out of the air all over the mill.? What
a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool box rusted every piece of metal in the
shop had water standing on it or running off it. Never seen that before or
since but that is what can happen to frozen metal then subjected to very worm
most air.? Oh and learned to hate that induma mill but it was the start of Turk
Mfg.J? Dennis ?
? I have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a
couple of long guns in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the
environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
|
I? use 'Shield' from Bore Tech to protect my Charleville and Sharps. It's great on precision tools as well. Leaves no oily film. Not a lick of rust on my set up blocks used in an unheated shop. L
On Wednesday, January 19, 2022, 04:27:32 PM EST, Grey Pilgrim <pilgrim23@...> wrote:
I agree Dennis. I also live in Oregon ?(A wee south of the Turk steading) My shop is a separate building unheated. ?Each fall I douse every machine and most tools in oil as a winter treatment. ?Come spring it takes a week of clean up. ?Even at that I can get flash rust on things and spend a lot of time ?with Scotch Brite. ? ?As to my guns, I got tired of the cold gunsafe and built a dedicated, heated, Gun Room ?and have had no problems ?with rust there since. ?
Glen in 1977 I moved into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.?
I had a shop that was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next
summer I got my first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we experienced the
coldest winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The temp ran below zero
with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.? Not what Oregon is all
aboutL?
Anyway after the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees over night with a steady
rain. That next morning I went out into the shop and what I seen I could not
believe.? There was a steady stream of water running off the spindle of the
mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers, the floor was covered with
water.? So that much cast iron that cold for that long and soon as the temp went
above freezing water stared condensing out of the air all over the mill.? What
a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool box rusted every piece of metal in the
shop had water standing on it or running off it. Never seen that before or
since but that is what can happen to frozen metal then subjected to very worm
most air.? Oh and learned to hate that induma mill but it was the start of Turk
Mfg.J? Dennis ?
? I have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a
couple of long guns in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the
environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
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chrisser
Dennis Turk