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Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice
I believe the spindle bearings on the B-4 are babbit. If this is
true,there are some things you can do to reduce the clearance. There is usually a shim pack installed between the parting surfaces of babbit bearings. If there are shims, it's just a matter of removing the shims one at a time to get the desired clearance. If there are no shims installed or if they have all been removed, you could lap the parting surfaces of the bearing caps to reduce the clearance. (if we are only talking about a couple thou) This is a common method of reducing clearances on older car engines with babbit bearings. I would think that to repour and bore the bearings on one of these lathes would be too expensive. Since your screen name is oddball racing, I'll assume that you know about checking the clearance with plastgage or aluminum foil. Jim Bonner (B-6 owner) |
Lot six has a new home
Dennis Turk
Hi all
Well yesterday the Ratshooter an I picked up Greg Fosmarks lot 6 lathe with all the great accessories it came with. This lathe is the one I did the saddle rebuild on last summer. This lathe is in fantastic condition. Most of the lathe shows no ware and only a few dings on the bed from dropping things. Most of the original japanning is there and for the most part its still nice looking though dirty. There are a few thin and worn areas but that is only from use. The two chucks that came with the lathe are original equipment and it great shape. The steady and the follower rest don't look like they were ever used. Nor does the taper attachment. The lathe in the past has had a cam lock device mounted under the tail stock so it has a cam lock lever that works really good. The original tail stock plate that goes under the bed was with the lathe. We got the original tool post and quite a number of tool holders. The lathe as a full set of 3C collets and most of them are Dalton brand. The hand wheel closer is original and in nice shape. Greg did a great job of taking care of this machine. The bench mount rear motor driven counter shaft is in fact a 1926 to 1930 SB unit that was purchased with the lathe when it was new. This drive is of the silent chain type and does not use a v belt. The motor is of the repulsion induction type that use brushes. Runs dead quiet and very smooth. Very nice shape. All in all there is nothing with the lathe or the drive that shows any more than very light use over the last 77 years. We even managed to squeeze the bench into the truck Greg had the lathe mounted on. Now it was raining like crazy all the way back to Oregon. But as we don't allow rain here as soon as we crossed the interstate bridge between Vancouver and Portland we were in sunshine the rest of the way home."-)))) I did confirm that this lathe has serial number 7014 and is the newest Dalton know of. The original owner purchased this lathe we think in Seattle in 1929. Dennis Turk |
Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice
I see your the guy that got the lathe off of Crags list. Jeff Beck
of tools4cheap sent me a heads up on this lathe. Dennis TurkNot me Dennis, you have me confused with someone else's inquiry. I've had this old girl for over 15 years I think. Plus it is in very good shape except its in need of fresh spindle bearings. Seems like your the man I need to ask, from the sites I have visited. |
Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice
Dennis Turk
开云体育I see your the guy that got the lathe off of Crags
list.? Jeff Beck of tools4cheap sent me a heads up on this
lathe.
?
Your pictures tell a lot better story than the ones
that were on Crags list.
?
OK the serial and lot number are stamped at the
very end of the rear bed way tail stock end.? I can till you your lathe is
a Lot 4 by the fact that you do not have a key way in your lead screw or do you
have the power? feed worm gear in the apron.? You have a post 1922
tails tock but still have one piece back gear guards. This lathe looks like a
transactional model between the Lot 4 and Lot 5 lathes.? Most lathes with
this tail stock and end door usually have the two piece back gear
guards.
?
You also have a solid disc back gear in stead of
the earlier model with spokes in the hub.? Your countershaft consists of
the cone pulley and the bearing standards from the ceiling mount double friction
counter shaft drive that was standard with each lathe.? There would have
been to more pulleys with clutches built in.? The two horse shoe items that
are on the bearing standards would have held the shift rod that was attached to
the clutches. There would have been a wood handle hanging down from this clutch
rod for shifting.
?
The fact that your lathe has the two piece end door
you machine was shipped with a collet closer.? The two piece door allowed
the gears to be changed without removing the closer.? It also allowed you
to easily lube the end gears without opening the door.
?
So what is the step v belt pulley for that is
attached to the threading lead screw?
?
I am glad someone is salvaging this old girl as she
looked really bad in the crags list photos.
?
Good luck and if you need any parts let me know as
I may have what you need.
?
Dennis Turk
?
?
?
?
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New member seeking Dalton Six advice
Hi, newest member here. just found site blah blah blah:)I have a
Dalton Six B-4. Looking for advice as to what to do with it. I use it all the time it's a nice little machine. I did not think it was as rare as it seems to be, nor did I realize how old it is. It could use spindle bearing work though, when run hard I get some tool chatter. Lets try to describe it based on all the photos in the gallery. First distinguishing item seems to be the apron. Most of what I see in the pix have Dalton cast into the front, NOT mine. Mine seems to have a plain face like Brian Anderson's. Physically I'd say it' probably closer to Pete's (although his does have the cast logo on its apron),but with out that stepped hub thing-a-majig off the left side. I seem to have the same countershaft set-up as Pete's too. Now the questions............. Where is the serial number supposed to be? Are my spindle bearings hopeless as far as repairs? |
Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice
开云体育I am the guy that got the lathe off of Craig's list. I have spent the last few days removing dirt, rust, and worse. Scotch brite pads and elbow grease go a long way. ?I will post more pictures, as soon as the lathe becomes more presentable. I have already become attached to her!. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, millions of free high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and much more. *** Check out free AOL at http://free.aol.com/thenewaol/index.adp. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, millions of free high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and much more. |
Re: dalton 6
JOHN GIAM
no, thats o.k.
|
Re: dalton 6
开云体育Nope, a lades bike with a basket on the
handle bars. If you are interested, I will chase the make tomorrow.
?
Ed Stoller
New Fairfield, CT
|
Re: dalton 6
JOHN GIAM
motorcycle?
|
Re: dalton 6
开云体育Hi,
I have an old bike that needs a home.
It has a British 3 speed.
?
Ed Stoller
New Fairfield, CT ?
|
Dalton steady rest on eBay
Dennis Turk
Hi all
There is a B-4 Dalton steady rest up for bid on eBay. Unfortunately it has been modified to fit on a 6 inch Atlas lathe. They machined off the base and eliminated the V groove lowering it down to a 6 inch center hight. Buggers. It can be repaired and used again on a Dalton if you would like an original one. Dennis Turk Item number 290073916089 Link to auction ViewItem&rd=1&item=290073916089&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=019 |
Re: Need a gib... Anybody have one?
Dennis Turk
开云体育Hi Tim
?
If all ells fails send me your slide assembly and I
will make one up.? I have the special 120 degree cutter it takes to put the
angle on the gib.
?
Turk
|
Need a gib... Anybody have one?
toolslinger1973
Ok, I've had exactly zero luck finding something I can replace the gib
in my top slide with. I'm going to run it by my neighbor tomorrow as he has a mill, but it might be a little too small to handle with his gear, and I don't know what tolerance I really need him to pull off... So, does anyone have a top slide gib they're willing to part with for a Lot 3? I think I could use the cross slide gib too, and just cut it shorter, but haven't confirmed that... I've got change gears bubbling away nicely in my electrolysis tank now, so they should come out nice and clean in another day or so... If that works out well, then there are a few other parts that will be getting the bath... Talk about better living through chemistry... I'll take sitting around and watching bubbles for a few days over chemical strippers, wire wheels, and abrasives any day... Cheers! -Tim |
Lot 3 in England
Dennis Turk
Hi all
Just note about a Lot 3 that just came up for bid on English eBay. I have emailed the seller with additional information and also requesting the serial number and winning bidders name. Here is the item number but you do not have to go to the English eBay site you can just plug it in and it will take you there. 260076015993 Turk |
Re: Photos Are Up
gm54210
Tim,
I purchased a belt from Baltimore Belting for my drill press - I actually went with a composite belt rather than leather. It was much, much cheaper and doesn't stretch as much, but it isn't as original. The gentleman I spoke with recommended the type of belt based on my machine type and age. He was very helpful. All said and done, it was less than $25 for a 4' belt and shipping. Good luck getting things up and running. I'm going to be starting work on mine soon as well. Wes |
Re: Photos Are Up
开云体育Hello Tim,
?
On the flat belt, my working lathe is a
104 year old Seneca Falls Star that my dad got for a trade school. He was a
carpenter and made his flat belt from a mans belt, fathered the ends and glued
them together. It looked like it was going to brake at any time so I wanted to
replace it. I am into antique engines and there is usually a vender at major
shows who installs the clip on the belt for a chunk of cat gut as a hinge pin. I
think 'Star Bolt" ?? sells them also, but?I would have to research
that.
?
When I made mine, I spent a lot of time
trying to get the length just right. I had the leather and marked it. When the
vender made it , it was a little too tight, so I left the tension on it for a
week and it stretched out perfect. I always take the tension off the belt and
unplug my lathe when I am done.
?
Ed Stoller
New Fairfield, CT
|
Photos Are Up
toolslinger1973
Ok, I got a few pictures of the lathe and parts up in the photos
area. I've got more, but no need to clutter up space yet. So what have I discovered so far?.. Well someone had all the adjustments cranked on the dovetail ways, and the bed. I don't think there was any major wear as a result as the machine just hasn't seem much use in a long time... I backed off things until there was no play, but things seem to move more like they should... I've got a pretty good handle on any rust, and there isn't any major pitting anyplace that matters... My one major hang up to being able to just use the machine (and that's really what I need currently) is the pressure plate in the dovetail of the top slide that someone bent badly. You can see it in the second picture... Anyone have one from a beater lathe they would part with, or have an idea where to source one? Next question is, is anyone running the flat belts that have a splice point? The way this one was setup before, it looks like someone just took an old belt, and wired it together with copper wire... Not exactly elegant, but I guess it worked... I could pull the spindle and slide an endless on, but I'd prefer to let that sleeping dog lie as everything seems good there... The counter shaft would have to come apart as well, so I'm leaning toward the metal splice linkage, unless someone tells me its going to destroy the lathe... As for the countershaft, from the little bit of looking around I've done, I'm leaning toward it being a South Bend, but that's mostly a guess based on some similarities with a couple others I've seen... Cheers! -Tim |
Re: Greetings from a new Dalton owner.
toolslinger1973
Sorry about the name, I thought I had it set up to automatically sign
at the bottom... I must be thinking of Practical Machinist that I also just jumped on... No auto sigs here I guess... Name is Tim... I'll try to remember to sign the posts, though, for many years, people have been calling me Toolslinger in reality too, so that's fine too... Thanks for the gear details. Nice to see they're still available. The screw had a 108 on it when I got it, so I pulled that, so at least I can put the cover over the gearing and avoid getting sucked in there if I run the screw during testing... Annoyingly, I just found a mangled pressure plate in the top slide... Looks something like a hockey stick at this point... That'll be a headache I suspect... It does at least explain why is was so tight, and seemed to have limited travel... Camera is currently in my office, while I'm in my house, so photos are on hold until I get it here... Thanks, -Tim YOU?????????"-)))))) any you cant find they are available from Boston gear. Your right as a 96 tooth is the normal slow feed gear for the lead screw. You can fit a 100 under the cover or end door but that is about it. all in on what your lathe looks like and especially the countershaft. for line shaft drives. You can go a little faster but be careful as the old babbit bearings dont like to be rubbed on to much.
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