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Re: Could someone enlighten me on electrolysis cleaning?

gm54210
 

Mike,

A few links that should explain the process better than I could:





I have not tried it yet, but the process seems to work great.

Wes


Dalton restoration parts and questions

 

Is their anyone on this group who has ...dare I say it..."parts
machines".

I'm looking for a few bits and pieces to complete my lot 5.

1)Brass plates for thread chart,(need not be a factory item if one
of you knows someone who may have reproduced the info onto their own
plate) mabye a vintage distributors tag.(to fill the holes drilled
into the swing door.)

2)The top of the compound slide (tool mounting base). Mine has been
crashed a "couple times" by someone in the last eighty years or
so:).It has a screw holding one edge of tool base slot and is
missing a big chunk from the opposite sides edge.(in the "dove tail"
sliding section)

Did Dalton paint the raised lettering on their castings? I've read
references to some of the members about it still being there on some
of their finds, but have yet to see it reproduced on some of the
nice restorations on the site.

......To Dennis; See what your nice pictures you forwarded to me has
now caused? Thanks for a wonderful way to pass the winter doldrums,
I'm almost finished with my "tune up" on the old girl, Just in time
for sprin, when I'll be able to start on the Hendey Norton
Universal.


Could someone enlighten me on electrolysis cleaning?

 

Wondering how/what the process is all about.
Thanks Mike. Will post the fruits of my labor soon.


Re: Three jaw chuck for a Dalton on eBay

john rosberg
 

Thanks, Dennis! just exactly what I need, and right down the road from me, as well!

?

fingers crossed!

John Rosberg


From: "Dennis Turk"
Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
To: daltonlathes@...
Subject: [daltonlathes] Three jaw chuck for a Dalton on eBay
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 15:44:43 -0000

Hi all

Just thought i would give you guys a heads up on a old Dalton chuck on
eBay. I have talked tot he seller and he said he had it for many years
after he got rid of the lathe as it was wore out. Said he scrapped the
lathe but kept the chuck but could not remember what the lathe was
called that it went to.

The item number is 250093111904

Dennis Turk





Three jaw chuck for a Dalton on eBay

Dennis Turk
 

Hi all

Just thought i would give you guys a heads up on a old Dalton chuck on
eBay. I have talked tot he seller and he said he had it for many years
after he got rid of the lathe as it was wore out. Said he scrapped the
lathe but kept the chuck but could not remember what the lathe was
called that it went to.

The item number is 250093111904

Dennis Turk


Re: Belt tension

 

If your counter shaft has slotted holes, you can slide it back to set
the tension. The belt needs to be fairly tight to prevent slipping.
If you are just starting out with lathe work, it may be better if the
belt was not super tight. If you have a crash, better to have the belt
slip before things break.

jim


Belt tension

Pete
 

I am starting to put together my B-4. I had to figure out the wiring on
the reverse/forward switch which didnt work. It now works.I was
wondering how should i keep the tension between the lathe and the drive
pulley? Is it common just to slide the two apart to create tension? How
tight should the belt be? Thank you in advance for any suggestions. Pete


Re: Where to find other antique machinery sites

 

Mike,

There is an antique machinery section on the PRACTICAL MASCHINIST'S
BOARD:



Someone there may be able to help you with your miller.

On your Dalton, there may be a formula at the bottom of the thread
chart to calculate the feed rate with the clutch. On the B-6, the
formula is: "FEED = .288" / THREAD"

That means: with the gears set to cut 72 threads per inch, the feed
rate with the clutch would be .004 / rev. ( .288/72 = .004)

The formula on the Lot 5 / B-4 may be different.

Jim


Re: Lot 5 S/N 405 found and logged.

Dennis Turk
 

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Hi Mile
?
OK on the back of your apron there is a hollow worm gear that the lead screw passes through.? In this worm gear is a key that the lead screw drives.? The worm gear drives a gear that has a clutch in it that is activated by the knob on the front of your apron.? On the back side of this driven worm gear is a spur gear that is engaged into the gear that drives the hand wheel pinion gear that? engages the rack gear under the bed.? When you turn the knob on the front to the right it will tighten the clutch and the lead screw will drive this gear train giving you a very fine slow feed rate to you saddle.? With the half nuts the feed rate is very fast and will not give a good clean cut.? It also saves your half nuts and lead screw threads just for threading so they do not ware out near as fast.? Here is a pictures of kind of what the back side of you apron looks like.? This is in fact the back side of a TL Dalton but yours is very similar.
?
AS you can see by the pictures there is no half nuts because the TL Dalton was a none thread cutting lathe.? The lead screw per say did not have any threads on it only a smooth shaft with a keyway.? The TL was a very inexpencive lathe used for wood work and some limited metal work.
?
Turk

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 6:34 AM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Lot 5 S/N 405 found and logged.

I have a slotted lead screw to drive the clutch. I am not a skilled
machinist. Please explain why this machine has both the half nut set-
up as well as a clutch knob. Thanks, Mike>


Where to find other antique machinery sites

 

Anyone have any reccomendations for other old iron sites? I have a
Hendey-Norton Universal Miller Early 1900's vintage. Quite an amazing
machine for it's age. Horizontal mill with vertical mill attachment.
Variable speeds to powerfeed X&Y axis two speed manual z travel with a
swiveling table. I'd like to find more about it. Most of the patent
dates are from the late 1888-1899 years. Up until I moved it out of
the shop this was a working machine.


Re: Lot 5 S/N 405 found and logged.

 

I have a slotted lead screw to drive the clutch. I am not a skilled
machinist. Please explain why this machine has both the half nut set-
up as well as a clutch knob. Thanks, Mike>


Re: Lot 5 S/N 405 found and logged.

 

Lot 5.... that would probably expain the flat face on the apron. I'm
thinking your lathe has a clutch knob along with the lever for the half
nuts. Does your lathe have a slotted lead screw or a second shaft to
drive the clutch?

Jim


Re: Lot 5 S/N 405 found and logged.

 

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Ronald Peeler"
<Ronaldpeeler@...> wrote:

and the Number is?????
..ahhh 405 as in the title. (missed that one didn't cha!)


Re: Lot 5 S/N 405 found and logged.

 

and the Number is?????

----Original Message Follows----
From: "oddball_racing" <oddball_racing@...>
Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
To: daltonlathes@...
Subject: [daltonlathes] Lot 5 S/N 405 found and logged.
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 17:57:23 -0000

I've located the serial number on my Dalton Six. Although edstoller
tried to help, I couldn't see what I think he sent as a photo.
However, the curiousity got the best of me and I broke down the lathe
to thoughly clean it up, all the while looking for the s/n. FYI it
was stamed into the end surface of the far side bed rail. Thanks for
the help, Mike


Lot 5 S/N 405 found and logged.

 

I've located the serial number on my Dalton Six. Although edstoller
tried to help, I couldn't see what I think he sent as a photo.
However, the curiousity got the best of me and I broke down the lathe
to thoughly clean it up, all the while looking for the s/n. FYI it
was stamed into the end surface of the far side bed rail. Thanks for
the help, Mike


Re: any other S/N location on a B-4?

 

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Look Here.
?
?
Ed Stoller
New Fairfield, CT

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 5:22 PM
Subject: [daltonlathes] any other S/N location on a B-4?

As asked in my previous post I'm told to find the s/n of my Dalton Six
w/30"long bed on the right end (tailstock) of the far bed rail. I also
saw evidence of this in one of the picture files. My lathe shows no
sign of ever being stamped with anything in that area. Any other place
I can look?


any other S/N location on a B-4?

 

As asked in my previous post I'm told to find the s/n of my Dalton Six
w/30"long bed on the right end (tailstock) of the far bed rail. I also
saw evidence of this in one of the picture files. My lathe shows no
sign of ever being stamped with anything in that area. Any other place
I can look?


Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice

Dennis Turk
 

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Hi Jim
?
Yes the babbit bearings are actually molded and used as is? with a little scraping to fit the spindle.? The back side of the bearings you can see the ejector pin marks so I know they came from a mold. Quite actuate I mite add.
?
Turk

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bonner
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 10:14 AM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice

OK Denny,

Are the babbit bearings in the B-4 in a removeable shell? If so, it
would be easier to reduce the clearnce. For some reason I was thinking
the babbit was just cast against the cast iron and then line bored.
You're right about keeping the spindle centered.... I have shims under
both the upper and lower bronze inserts in my lathe.

good to see more Daltons showing up. Are you going to post some pics
of the taper attachment on Greg's (now yours) B-6?

later, Jim


Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice

 

OK Denny,

Are the babbit bearings in the B-4 in a removeable shell? If so, it
would be easier to reduce the clearnce. For some reason I was thinking
the babbit was just cast against the cast iron and then line bored.
You're right about keeping the spindle centered.... I have shims under
both the upper and lower bronze inserts in my lathe.

good to see more Daltons showing up. Are you going to post some pics
of the taper attachment on Greg's (now yours) B-6?

later, Jim


Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice

Dennis Turk
 

开云体育

Hi Jim and all
?
One thing to remember about these bearings is they ware on the bottom as well as the top.? By dressing off the bearing cap and or the bearing shell itself you will be lowering the spindle and getting it out of alignment with the tail stock.? You may find that you will have to shim between the bottom bearing and the casting.? This is standard practice in correcting worn bearing problems.? I have seen many a plain bearing lathes with shim under the bottom bearing.? You will find that you will have to do this.? In doing this you will see that you will have to kiss of just a little from the upper bearing were it sets on top of the lower bearing.?? Now if there is clearance between the bearing shells and I have seen this in a number of Daltons you will probably have to shim the upper bearing in a like amount.
?
Dennis Turk

kl----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bonner
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 9:11 AM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice

I believe the spindle bearings on the B-4 are babbit. If this is
true,there are some things you can do to reduce the clearance. There
is usually a shim pack installed between the parting surfaces of babbit
bearings. If there are shims, it's just a matter of removing the shims
one at a time to get the desired clearance. If there are no shims
installed or if they have all been removed, you could lap the parting
surfaces of the bearing caps to reduce the clearance. (if we are only
talking about a couple thou) This is a common method of reducing
clearances on older car engines with babbit bearings. I would think
that to repour and bore the bearings on one of these lathes would be
too expensive.

Since your screen name is oddball racing, I'll assume that you know
about checking the clearance with plastgage or aluminum foil.

Jim Bonner (B-6 owner)