Hey friend, ? We are planning a trip to the mountains during the spring break, can you please take a look at our list of equipment? Here it is ? ? Warmly, mayerk
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malware link - do not click
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Greetings,
?
I've just read an article and I have some
questions that you may really know the answer, please read it here
?
Sincerely yours,
ronkline
|
Greetings, ? I've just read an article and I have some questions that you may really know the answer, please read it here ? Sincerely yours, ronkline
|
Hi Guys, Please take a look at my new video. It creates a DXF file for CAM.
Cheers Bob Adams
?
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Re: Other Driver Systems?
Exactly.
Use 2M542 or similar drives, for
1. no-back emf,
2. soft start,
3. ability to use differential signals,
4. ability to disable single drives
5. less noise
Vs gecko 251s or g540.
Oh, they are cheaper as well, but thats less important.
542 series is around 40-50$ / drive, use 48V DC.
Hey,
man:
?
Stepper
motors don’t burn out if they are overloaded. They will simply
lose steps.
?
They
burn out if they are improperly driven-too much current will
kill them.
?
Andy
Wander
--
-hanermo (cnc designs)
|
Re: Other Driver Solutions?
Damn, I just took your ass off moderation! Back you go.
On 7/9/2016 3:30 PM, maxnc15@...
[CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] wrote:
?
Jon,?
> Or did you have a drive fail and ruin the stepper,
and you assumed the stall was the cause??
Assumed - all three motors do
not respond - so it could be they work and the driver
board only is bad.
I will try Gecko, thanks.
> Do you know where to
get proportional hydraulic valves? ?They will run
about $5000 new, PER AXIS,
Yes I do know - Sterling which
was bought by Parker sold two sizes for less than $200
each. ?The ones by Moog ran $3000 and another company I
forget the name of was $5000 each. ?I bought some for a
robot project but couldn't afford to finish yet, which
is why I need the CNC to work. ? I also know many other
things posted here. ??
?
Kirk
---In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...,
wrote :
On
07/09/2016 09:51 AM,
maxnc15@...
[CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] wrote:
I've had bad luck with my MaxNC mill so
I am looking for
a different drive system. ?Ideally it would
run small
hydraulic motors which won't burn out in an
overload like
steppers.
HUH?? Stalling a stepper will not burn it out.?
The current to a
step motor is constant, set by the driver, and
won't increase when
stalled.? Now, totally crummy step drivers may
blow transistors when
the motor stalls, and that could then damage the
motor with excess
current.? You might try Gecko G251 drives for
smaller motors or the
G203 for larger ones that need more current.? They
will greatly
improve performance, too.
Hydraulics were an insane, Rube Goldberg stopgap
measure when
electronics was in its infancy, and you will not
find any commercial
machines with hydraulically-actuated axes today.?
Putting hydraulic
motors on a desktop mill is one of the most insane
ideas I've ever
heard.? Do you know where to get proportional
hydraulic valves??
They will run about $5000 new, PER AXIS, and you
are not likely to
find used ones, especially in the size you would
need.? You are also
not likely to find hydraulic motors designed for
servo axis use in
the size you want.
Have you actually had a stepper burn out from an
overload?? Or did
you have a drive fail and ruin the stepper, and
you assumed the
stall was the cause?? (I will say the old MaxNC
stepper drives were
QUITE awful, RL-type drives.)? There are much
better drives and
controllers.
Jon
--
Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA
Think, Draw, Print. 3D printers ROCK!
My hobby pages are here:
Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
|
Re: Other Driver Systems?
Andy,
Thanks, I knew it had to be something like that. ?
Kirk ---In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@..., <ohawiseguyeh@...> wrote : Hey, man: ? Stepper motors don’t burn out if they are overloaded. They will simply lose steps. ? They burn out if they are improperly driven-too much current will kill them. ? Andy Wander
From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@... [mailto:CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2016 11:07 AM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Other Driver Systems? ? ? My MaxNC kicked the bucket again so I'm looking for a cheaper solution than replacing their drive board and dead motors which I've done once. ?Two options I can think of are using small hydraulic motors that won't burn out when overloaded or some other maler's drive products. ?Any leads? ?Any advice on how to make my own hydraulic system? ?I can hook up chips to drive a proportional hydraulic valve to a Raspberry Pi but I know too little about position sensors and the software to make G-Codes work. ?Thank you. ? When I send this message it says sent but it doesn't show up in the group display, so I'm thinking my rural ISP may be eating my posts. ?Sorry if duplicates appear - I do want an answer. ?Thanks. ?
|
Re: Other Driver Systems?
Art,
Thank you. ?I see the G540 is a bit cheaper on Ebay.?
Kirk ---In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@..., <fenerty@...> wrote :
Hi:
?? Adding Hydraulics to a maxNC would be like adding rocket boosters
to a 1960 red rocket wagon. I think what you really want is either
better stepper drives,
or a 3 axis servo system to run it. It may just be your drivers,
they weren't very good originally, some had wave steppers, others a
"kinda" servo system.
Check into a Gecko G540 or similar device. A G540 could basically
replace your entire drive electronics in one fell swoop if you have
steppers.? Going any higher
level for a MaxNC would require thinking about replacing the MaxNC
altogether.. With the G540 you can drive it from LinuxNC or Mach3
from a printer port, or
if you have 64 bit windows you could get a Pokeys or similar device
to drive the G540.. I doubt you'd ever have to replace it again...
?Two cents.. for what 2 cents are worth in Canada at the moment..
Art
?
?
On 7/9/2016 12:06 PM, maxnc15@...
[CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] wrote: ?My MaxNC kicked the bucket again so I'm looking for
a cheaper solution than replacing their drive board and
dead motors which I've done once. ?Two options I can
think of are using small hydraulic motors that won't
burn out when overloaded or some other maler's drive
products. ?Any leads? ?Any advice on how to make my own
hydraulic system? ?I can hook up chips to drive a
proportional hydraulic valve to a Raspberry Pi but I
know too little about position sensors and the software
to make G-Codes work. ?Thank you.
When I send this message it says sent but it doesn't show
up in the group display, so I'm thinking my rural ISP may
be eating my posts. ?Sorry if duplicates appear - I do
want an answer. ?Thanks.
--
thx
Art
|
Re: Other Driver Solutions?
Jon,?
> Or did you have a drive fail and ruin the stepper, and you assumed the stall was the cause??
Assumed - all three motors do not respond - so it could be they work and the driver board only is bad. I will try Gecko, thanks.
> Do you know where to get proportional hydraulic valves? ?They will run about $5000 new, PER AXIS,
Yes I do know - Sterling which was bought by Parker sold two sizes for less than $200 each. ?The ones by Moog ran $3000 and another company I forget the name of was $5000 each. ?I bought some for a robot project but couldn't afford to finish yet, which is why I need the CNC to work. ? I also know many other things posted here. ?? ? Kirk
---In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@..., <elson@...> wrote :
On 07/09/2016 09:51 AM,
maxnc15@... [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] wrote: I've had bad luck with my MaxNC mill so I am looking for
a different drive system. ?Ideally it would run small
hydraulic motors which won't burn out in an overload like
steppers.
HUH?? Stalling a stepper will not burn it out.? The current to a
step motor is constant, set by the driver, and won't increase when
stalled.? Now, totally crummy step drivers may blow transistors when
the motor stalls, and that could then damage the motor with excess
current.? You might try Gecko G251 drives for smaller motors or the
G203 for larger ones that need more current.? They will greatly
improve performance, too.
Hydraulics were an insane, Rube Goldberg stopgap measure when
electronics was in its infancy, and you will not find any commercial
machines with hydraulically-actuated axes today.? Putting hydraulic
motors on a desktop mill is one of the most insane ideas I've ever
heard.? Do you know where to get proportional hydraulic valves??
They will run about $5000 new, PER AXIS, and you are not likely to
find used ones, especially in the size you would need.? You are also
not likely to find hydraulic motors designed for servo axis use in
the size you want.
Have you actually had a stepper burn out from an overload?? Or did
you have a drive fail and ruin the stepper, and you assumed the
stall was the cause?? (I will say the old MaxNC stepper drives were
QUITE awful, RL-type drives.)? There are much better drives and
controllers.
Jon
|
Re: Other Driver Solutions?
On 07/09/2016 09:51 AM,
maxnc15@... [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] wrote:
I've had bad luck with my MaxNC mill so I am looking for
a different drive system. ?Ideally it would run small
hydraulic motors which won't burn out in an overload like
steppers.
HUH?? Stalling a stepper will not burn it out.? The current to a
step motor is constant, set by the driver, and won't increase when
stalled.? Now, totally crummy step drivers may blow transistors when
the motor stalls, and that could then damage the motor with excess
current.? You might try Gecko G251 drives for smaller motors or the
G203 for larger ones that need more current.? They will greatly
improve performance, too.
Hydraulics were an insane, Rube Goldberg stopgap measure when
electronics was in its infancy, and you will not find any commercial
machines with hydraulically-actuated axes today.? Putting hydraulic
motors on a desktop mill is one of the most insane ideas I've ever
heard.? Do you know where to get proportional hydraulic valves??
They will run about $5000 new, PER AXIS, and you are not likely to
find used ones, especially in the size you would need.? You are also
not likely to find hydraulic motors designed for servo axis use in
the size you want.
Have you actually had a stepper burn out from an overload?? Or did
you have a drive fail and ruin the stepper, and you assumed the
stall was the cause?? (I will say the old MaxNC stepper drives were
QUITE awful, RL-type drives.)? There are much better drives and
controllers.
Jon
|
Re: Other Driver Systems?
Hi:
?? Adding Hydraulics to a maxNC would be like adding rocket boosters
to a 1960 red rocket wagon. I think what you really want is either
better stepper drives,
or a 3 axis servo system to run it. It may just be your drivers,
they weren't very good originally, some had wave steppers, others a
"kinda" servo system.
Check into a Gecko G540 or similar device. A G540 could basically
replace your entire drive electronics in one fell swoop if you have
steppers.? Going any higher
level for a MaxNC would require thinking about replacing the MaxNC
altogether.. With the G540 you can drive it from LinuxNC or Mach3
from a printer port, or
if you have 64 bit windows you could get a Pokeys or similar device
to drive the G540.. I doubt you'd ever have to replace it again...
?Two cents.. for what 2 cents are worth in Canada at the moment..
Art
?
?
On 7/9/2016 12:06 PM, maxnc15@...
[CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] wrote:
?
My MaxNC kicked the bucket again so I'm looking for
a cheaper solution than replacing their drive board and
dead motors which I've done once. ?Two options I can
think of are using small hydraulic motors that won't
burn out when overloaded or some other maler's drive
products. ?Any leads? ?Any advice on how to make my own
hydraulic system? ?I can hook up chips to drive a
proportional hydraulic valve to a Raspberry Pi but I
know too little about position sensors and the software
to make G-Codes work. ?Thank you.
When I send this message it says sent but it doesn't show
up in the group display, so I'm thinking my rural ISP may
be eating my posts. ?Sorry if duplicates appear - I do
want an answer. ?Thanks.
--
thx
Art
|
Re: Other Driver Systems?
Hey, man: ? Stepper motors don’t burn out if they are overloaded. They will simply lose steps. ? They burn out if they are improperly driven-too much current will kill them. ? Andy Wander
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@... [mailto:CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2016 11:07 AM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Other Driver Systems?? ? My MaxNC kicked the bucket again so I'm looking for a cheaper solution than replacing their drive board and dead motors which I've done once. ?Two options I can think of are using small hydraulic motors that won't burn out when overloaded or some other maler's drive products. ?Any leads? ?Any advice on how to make my own hydraulic system? ?I can hook up chips to drive a proportional hydraulic valve to a Raspberry Pi but I know too little about position sensors and the software to make G-Codes work. ?Thank you. ? When I send this message it says sent but it doesn't show up in the group display, so I'm thinking my rural ISP may be eating my posts. ?Sorry if duplicates appear - I do want an answer. ?Thanks. ?
|
My MaxNC kicked the bucket again so I'm looking for a cheaper solution than replacing their drive board and dead motors which I've done once. ?Two options I can think of are using small hydraulic motors that won't burn out when overloaded or some other maler's drive products. ?Any leads? ?Any advice on how to make my own hydraulic system? ?I can hook up chips to drive a proportional hydraulic valve to a Raspberry Pi but I know too little about position sensors and the software to make G-Codes work. ?Thank you.
When I send this message it says sent but it doesn't show up in the group display, so I'm thinking my rural ISP may be eating my posts. ?Sorry if duplicates appear - I do want an answer. ?Thanks.
|
My MaxNC kicked the bucket again so I'm looking for a cheaper solution than replacing their drive board and dead motors. ?Two options I can think of are using small hydraulic motors that won't burn out when overloaded or some other maler's drive products. ?Any leads? ?Any advice on how to make my own hydraulic system? ?I can hook up chips to drive a proportional hydraulic valve to a Raspberry Pi but I know too little about position sensors and the software to make G-Codes work. ?Thank you.
|
I've had bad luck with my MaxNC mill so I am looking for a different drive system. ?Ideally it would run small hydraulic motors which won't burn out in an overload like steppers. ?But I'm willing to consider a different stapper system that's cheaper than MaxNC's since I already replaced the driver board and several motors once. ?I once saw other systems in a magazine at a now dead machinist's but I don't remember them or the magazine name. ?Any leads?
This forum used to be for builders who I hoped might consider mentoring me on the hydraulic solution, if any are still out there, please advise. .I should be able to hook up the chips to control a proportional hydrauliv valve to a Rspberry Pi but I don't know about the position sensors and software to run the G-codes, etc..
Thank you.
Kirk Fraser
|
PMDX-416 SmartBOB-OptoUSB announce
The new PMDX-416 SmartBOB-OptoUSB motion controller for Mach4 is now shipping.
For details see:
This new controller offers a simple, low cost way to create a Mach4
machine controller.
It is the slightly bigger brother to the just announced PMDX-412 and
adds the following additional features:
Opto-isolation of the input signals.
Support for an encoder to allow an MPG, spindle speed reporting, or
lathe threading (in a future plugin release).
One 10 ampere SPDT relay.
It also shares the following features with the PMDX-412:
It provides the controller, pulse engine, breakout board, and plug-in terminal
strips. External breakout boards or terminal strips are not needed.
Powered from the USB port, no external power supply is needed.
It can self mount directly to the wall of your control enclosure and includes
a dress panel for the outside of the enclosure.
The I/O available is equivalent to one parallel port and includes 4 axis step
and direction outputs, 4 logic level output signals, and 5 input signals including
the E-Stop function.
The output signals can be used with our PMDX-104 relay board or with
solid state relays.
The inputs accept mechanical switches, NPN sensors, or 5 volt logic signals.
PNP sensors can be used by adding our PMDX-105 board.
VFD spindle inverters can be controlled by adding our PMDX-407 board.
Stay tuned for more SmartBOB products in the future.
Steve Stallings
| | | | | | PMDX - products for CNC and motion control applications | | | | Preview by Yahoo | | |
|
Re: revive old ball screw stage
More repetition of internet nonsense.
?
WD-40 is certainly not a good choice for a lubricant, but
the idea that it is somehow only a "water displacer" is simply
incorrect. Yes, that is the root of the name, but WD-40 is just a mixture of
various solvents similar to many other products.
?
I suggest you read the SDS (formerly called MSDS) for WD-40
and Kroil and then tell us about any significant differences. You will find
that they are both mainly petroleum distillates.
?
Gene
|
Re: revive old ball screw stage
Agreed!!!
?
WD-40 is evil stuff.? It is a penetrant and nothing else.?
It almost always makes any job (except getting a rusty part apart) a lot
worse.
?
?
Christopher Erickson
Consulting
Engineer
Summit Kinetics
Waikoloa, HI
96738
www.summitkinetics.com
?
WD40 is most definitely __not__ the stuff to be using on a
ball screw - it is not a lubricant, it is a solvent and water displacer. When it
dries, it will leave behind a varnish coating.
?
?
Try Kroil from Kano Labs or use a 50/50 mix of Automatic
Transmission Fluid and Acetone. I have been using the ATF/Acetone mix for many
years and swear by it - great for cleaning guns too - google Ed's
Red.
?
?
?
?
Dave
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I
have a XY stage with 4" travel purchased from ebay about 10 years ago and
shelved since then.? It was probably old then, it has the round stepper
motors but no manufacturer information or date.? No matter, I plan to put
new steppers on it and put it into service under my surface grinder.
It
has 5 tpi ball screws and roller bearings guides, ball bearing thrust
bearings.
Here's the problem: the screws
are very stiff.? I've been spraying WD40 on them and turning them back
and forth with an electric drill, but this seems to only made them slightly
looser.
The
stiffness seems constant throughout the travel.? There is no noticeable
backlash.
Taking the whole thing apart
can be done, but then I'd just have a pile of unaligned parts which would be a
pita to reassemble properly.
Any
ideas?
This
will be put under control of Mach3 and my Xylotex box when it's runs well
enough.
Elliot
|
Re: revive old ball screw stage
WD40 is most definitely __not__ the stuff to be using on a
ball screw - it is not a lubricant, it is a solvent and water displacer. When it
dries, it will leave behind a varnish coating.
?
?
Try Kroil from Kano Labs or use a 50/50 mix of Automatic
Transmission Fluid and Acetone. I have been using the ATF/Acetone mix for many
years and swear by it - great for cleaning guns too - google Ed's
Red.
?
?
?
?
Dave
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I
have a XY stage with 4" travel purchased from ebay about 10 years ago and
shelved since then.? It was probably old then, it has the round stepper
motors but no manufacturer information or date.? No matter, I plan to put
new steppers on it and put it into service under my surface grinder.
It
has 5 tpi ball screws and roller bearings guides, ball bearing thrust
bearings.
Here's the problem: the screws
are very stiff.? I've been spraying WD40 on them and turning them back
and forth with an electric drill, but this seems to only made them slightly
looser.
The
stiffness seems constant throughout the travel.? There is no noticeable
backlash.
Taking the whole thing apart
can be done, but then I'd just have a pile of unaligned parts which would be a
pita to reassemble properly.
Any
ideas?
This
will be put under control of Mach3 and my Xylotex box when it's runs well
enough.
Elliot
|
Re: revive old ball screw stage
The nuts probably have a lot of preload.? Measure the amount of movement along the axis of the screw (set an indicator, push first one direction-zero the indicator them push the opposite direction and read the indicator).? Odds are that it's less than five tenths (.0005) difference.? This was most likely an optical stage of some sort.? It should have two ball nuts inside that are screwed to some sort of bracket.? You'll need to add or subtract a shim of some sort to loosen the thread up but you'll end up with more movement along the screw axis. R. Wink ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@... [mailto:CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...]
Sent: Friday, July 1, 2016 9:07 PM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] revive old ball screw stage? ? I have a XY stage with 4" travel purchased from ebay about 10 years ago and shelved since then.? It was probably old then, it has the round stepper motors but no manufacturer information or date.? No matter, I plan to put new steppers on it and put it into service under my surface grinder. It has 5 tpi ball screws and roller bearings guides, ball bearing thrust bearings. Here's the problem: the screws are very stiff.? I've been spraying WD40 on them and turning them back and forth with an electric drill, but this seems to only made them slightly looser. The stiffness seems constant throughout the travel.? There is no noticeable backlash. Taking the whole thing apart can be done, but then I'd just have a pile of unaligned parts which would be a pita to reassemble properly. This will be put under control of Mach3 and my Xylotex box when it's runs well enough. No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2016.0.7640 / Virus Database: 4613/12539 - Release Date: 07/01/16
|
Christopher Erickson