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Hi Allard,
I have boldly placed a link to your Github repository on the wiki in two places (I think it's worth mentioning twice!).... and included your wiring instructions and pictures for the wiring mods too.
We all greatly appreciate your contribution to the BitX project and I think the wiki is a good place to put these basic, but essential snippets of information so everyone can find it without spending days hunting the forums in desperation.
73 De Noel, ZL1NC
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73 de Noel, ZL1NC
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I may be way off, but just for grins, I would check the pot wiring. Ten turn pots normally have the wiper the most rearward pin as opposed to the center like normal pots. ? v/r Fred W4JLE ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dragan 4O4A
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2017 20:15
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Raduino v1.10 with CW functionality released ? Hi Jerry, thanks for reply. Well, it is a little bit tricky to explain. I'm sure that both 10k lin and 20k 10-turn are good, both wired properly. Sketch was also good, Allard's 1.10. I cannot guarantee, but it must be me - I messed something, but I don't know what :) I didn't play with code, so it must be hardware somewhere. Let me try to explain pot behavior: I turn pot fully CCW. Freq is 7400. When I start to turning in CW direction, it goes very fast. A small touch is enough to move freq down by 300 kHz. As I continue with CW direction freq goes slower and slower and finally it really takes time to change 20 kHz or 10 kHz. When I reach the end of CW direction, there is no moving in 10 kHz steps. When I go back CCW, freq changes slowly and then as I am going to the end of CCW change is faster and pot stops at, say, 7.400.000. At that point, if I go to setting, I can see that all setting parameters are OK besides tuning range. It reads 520 kHz or so.
In opposite point, if I go to setting, I can see that tuning range reads 10 kHz. It looks that for some reason info about tuning range is not stored in Nano, and tuning range is continuously changing along with frequency change.
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I tried both 10k lin and 20k 10-tur pot. No luck. I guess I burned Nano somehow. :)
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I just upgraded to v1.10 with a 10 turn pot, a very nice improvement, this radio keeps getting better and better!
How do I limit the range of the tuner from 7.0 to 7.3 MHz? I am using a 10 turn pot with the 300 kHz function set. It currently goes up to 7.5 and down to just below 7.0 MHz.
It looks like LOWEST_FREQ and HIGHEST_FREQ are commented out.
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Using the Function Button, go to the SETTINGS menu and select "set tune
range" (5 presses). Using the tuning pot set the desired tuning range.
Press FB again to save the setting. Then press FB again for some seconds
to return to the NORMAL menu.
If you set the tune range to for example 200kHz, it means the span between
the lower and upper pot limit is 200kHz. But you can still tune beyond
that 200kHz range with the 'fast tune' feature that becomes activated when
you hit one of the pot limits. What happens then is that the whole range
will shift up/down in steps of 10 kHz. The absolute range is always 7000 -
7500 kHz.
For a 10-turn pot I recommend a tuning range value of max 200kHz. Higher
is possible, but tuning may become quite "touchy". And as explained above,
you don't normally need such a large range because you can always still
tune beyond the original range limits.
Hope it's more clear now.
73 Allard PE1NWL
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On Tue, May 16, 2017 03:15, KC8WBK via Groups.Io wrote: I just upgraded to v1.10 with a 10 turn pot, a very nice improvement, this
radio keeps getting better and better!
How do I limit the range of the tuner from 7.0 to 7.3 MHz?
I am using a 10 turn pot with the 300 kHz function set. It currently goes
up to 7.5 and down to just below 7.0 MHz.
It looks like LOWEST_FREQ and HIGHEST_FREQ are commented out.
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I want to stop changing frequency at 7300 and not go above it. Which variable would set this value as a limit?
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On Tue, May 16, 2017 12:54, KC8WBK via Groups.Io wrote: I want to stop changing frequency at 7300 and not go above it. Which
variable would set this value as a limit?
The limits are hardcode defined at lines 194 and 195: #define LOWEST_FREQ (6995000L) // absolute minimum frequency (Hz) #define HIGHEST_FREQ (7500000L) // absolute maximum frequency (Hz) You can edit these values and recompile the sketch. 73 Allard PE1NWL
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Got it That works, thank you
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For what it’s
worth:
This morning
finally managed to get the BITX40 to receive JT65 (with help from longtime
friend: K9HWL).
My second attempt
I set the WSJT-X software tuned to 7.076 USB and nothing.
Then I heard
something and looked up watched a QSO exchange!!
WD4RC? ?CQ??? AL
M0ZCW ???England
W8KHR ???Ohio
VE1BWV ?Canada? ??I think I’ve read your BITX40 emails? JT65?
W1GQQ??? ?NH
US1CR ????Ukraine
My trap
80-10 dipole is up 10’ and level E/W
Now on to making
the CW mods for the BITX40? -? JT65
Just thought
to pass on my this step with the BITX40
Thanks to
Allard PE1NWL for all he’s doing.
73
Larry ?WA9DOH
On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 8:05 PM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...> wrote: I've just released raduino v1.10, download it from Some minimal hardware (a few resistors and one PNP transistor) is required to fully use the new functionality.
New in this version:
- added CW functionality (for straight morse key). This function can also be used just for tuning up.
This requires the CW-CARRIER line connected to Raduino output D6 (connector P3, pin 15).
(see for wiring instructions).
The morse key itself shall be connected to Raduino pin A1 (brown wire).
Both sidebands (CWU or CWL) are available for CW operation.
- Semi break-in for CW
This requires the TX-RX line from Raduino output D7 (connector P3, pin 16) to override the existing PTT
switch using a PNP transistor.
(see for wiring instructions)
- CW side-tone
This requires some wiring from Raduino output D5 (connector P3, pin 14) to the speaker.
(see for wiring instructions).
The desired sidetone pitch can be set using the Function Button in the SETTINGS menu.
- Frequency tuning is disabled during TX (to prevent flutter or "FM-ing" during TX).
This requires the PTT SENSE line connected to pin A0 (black wire).
(see for wiring instructions).
- Please carefully read the updated user instructions:
73, Allard PE1NWL
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LARRY,
Will keep an eye open for your jt65 transmission.
Rig is on most times
Just with casual usage, I have 80 contacts on jt65..... Lots of fun
Running raduino v 109 but will be moving to 112 on its release.
73
Joe
VE1BWV
On Tue, May 16, 2017, 10:10 PM Larry Smith < 815cpu@...> wrote: For what it’s
worth:
This morning
finally managed to get the BITX40 to receive JT65 (with help from longtime
friend: K9HWL).
My second attempt
I set the WSJT-X software tuned to 7.076 USB and nothing.
Then I heard
something and looked up watched a QSO exchange!!
WD4RC? ?CQ??? AL
M0ZCW ???England
W8KHR ???Ohio
VE1BWV ?Canada? ??I think I’ve read your BITX40 emails? JT65?
W1GQQ??? ?NH
US1CR ????Ukraine
My trap
80-10 dipole is up 10’ and level E/W
Now on to making
the CW mods for the BITX40? -? JT65
Just thought
to pass on my this step with the BITX40
Thanks to
Allard PE1NWL for all he’s doing.
73
Larry ?WA9DOH
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Joe, Thanks for your reply.? I thought I saw your QRZ station pictures a while back!? I was surprised when I saw you where in the contacts! ? Mainly the first time on JT65 for me in the receive mode.? I have a few Nano PCB's here and I set up my DDS with a inline headers so I can pop a Nano in for quick comparisons. I have v1.11. ? Bitx here is getting power from a 12v 18AH sealed lead acid battery.? JT65 is loaded into my old laptop running XP.? I'm dragging my feet on putting the BITX40 into box!? Mods are coming faster than I get around to installing them Hi? 73 Larry ?WA9DOH
On Tue, May 16, 2017 at 11:31 PM, Joe <joeman2116@...> wrote: LARRY,
Will keep an eye open for your jt65 transmission.
Rig is on most times
Just with casual usage, I have 80 contacts on jt65..... Lots of fun
Running raduino v 109 but will be moving to 112 on its release.
73
Joe
VE1BWV
On Tue, May 16, 2017, 10:10 PM Larry Smith < 815cpu@...> wrote: For what it’s
worth:
This morning
finally managed to get the BITX40 to receive JT65 (with help from longtime
friend: K9HWL).
My second attempt
I set the WSJT-X software tuned to 7.076 USB and nothing.
Then I heard
something and looked up watched a QSO exchange!!
WD4RC? ?CQ??? AL
M0ZCW ???England
W8KHR ???Ohio
VE1BWV ?Canada? ??I think I’ve read your BITX40 emails? JT65?
W1GQQ??? ?NH
US1CR ????Ukraine
My trap
80-10 dipole is up 10’ and level E/W
Now on to making
the CW mods for the BITX40? -? JT65
Just thought
to pass on my this step with the BITX40
Thanks to
Allard PE1NWL for all he’s doing.
73
Larry ?WA9DOH
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Larry,
I know what u mean, mods are keeping me busy.? I have 2 bitx40s. One I keep on line nearly 24/7. The other i keep testing and adding mods.
On my test unit i run a homebrew dds sg5351 and nano.? I also do what you do and plug a spare nano in for testing various firmware versions.
I wish the raduino dds nano a socket. Recently thr raduino dds failed, weird as they are quite reliable but she would not load a sketch..... So, i removed it, added a socket and put a nano nano back in..... Works fine now.
Mods:
Added the usb mod
Rf gain
Larger heatsink
Tx display
Ptt thump killer
Rvs voltage protection
Frontend diode protection
And the list goes on .....
Great little rigs
73
Joe
VE1BWV
On Wed, May 17, 2017, 6:11 AM Larry Smith < 815cpu@...> wrote: Joe, Thanks for your reply.? I thought I saw your QRZ station pictures a while back!? I was surprised when I saw you where in the contacts! ? Mainly the first time on JT65 for me in the receive mode.? I have a few Nano PCB's here and I set up my DDS with a inline headers so I can pop a Nano in for quick comparisons. I have v1.11. ? Bitx here is getting power from a 12v 18AH sealed lead acid battery.? JT65 is loaded into my old laptop running XP.? I'm dragging my feet on putting the BITX40 into box!? Mods are coming faster than I get around to installing them Hi? 73 Larry ?WA9DOH
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Some questions about wiring up these mods.? I just got my boards in the mail yesterday and have looked them over, but I need a little help here: 1) How do I identify which pin is which?? Does someone have a diagram of the pin layouts?? So when it says, "Connect such and such to Raduino output D6 (connector P3, pin 15)," what is that, exactly?? I know that P3 is the larger of the two connectors on the Raduino board, but do I start counting from the left or the right? 2) Do I just stick a wire in the open hole and solder it?? Or do I need to add a connector and pins to the open holes and go from there? 3) What's pin A0? 4) Wiring the function button to the orange wire, I'm assuming that's the +12V power identified on the "Wire it up page", but do I wire the switch in series or in parallel?? I'm assuming parallel so that you're not cutting power, but I want to make sure. Thanks, and sorry if these are dumb questions.? I just don't want to screw anything up.
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Nope, the function button is not the 12v supply wire. ?There's more than one orange wire. ? ?The WireUp diagram only shows the wires he is using in that minimal configuration, you will still have a bunch of loose leads flying off that can be used for other stuff like the function switch. ?The function button goes on on pin 5 of the 8 pin connector. ?See post ?/g/BITX20/message/26669? ?? Look at the schematic for the Raduino at ??? ? A0 of the Nano goes to pin 8 of the 8 pin connector, which is one of the many black wires. For everything shown in the WireUp webpage, you don't have to solder any wires into any holes on any boards, just use the supplied connector harnesses. ? If you upgrade to Allard's new firmware, he makes use of some of the holes in the Raduino board that don't come with a connector installed, in that case I'd probably just solder a wire to the hole. A couple weird things about the WireUp diagram: ?The connectors are on the backside of the Raduino, so when wiring it up what you see is a mirror image of what is shown in the diagram. ?Also, the WireUp diagram shows a row of 16 holes with 5 wires coming out of one end, there's only a 5 pin connector already soldered into that end of the row of holes, the other 11 holes don't come with a connector. Triple check your work when done before powering up, you can easily smoke something if there's a miss-wire. ? Avoid letting anything touch the big heatsink, it's at 12v. ?And put tape over the ends of any loose wires, even if the insulation has not been stripped they can (and do) fly about and touch things they should not. Best to first power up with a really wimpy 12v supply (under 1 Amp) or have a ?fuse inline. ?Except for the PA+12 supply to the IRF510 when transitting, the rig should never want more than 0.2 Amps. ? I'd check everything else out before putting PA+12v to the IRF510. ?Avoid going over 12v, that could blow parts even on receive.
Jerry, KE7ER?
On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 05:45 am, W9ZIM wrote: Wiring the function button to the orange wire, I'm assuming that's the +12V power identified on the "Wire it up page" ?
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From the comments in the sketch:
?? The pins are assigned as follows:
????????? A0,?? A1,? A2,? A3,?? GND,?? +5V,? A6,? A7
?????? pin 8???? 7??? 6??? 5???? 4?????? 3??? 2??? 1 (connector P1)
??????? BLACK BROWN RED ORANGE YELLW? GREEN? BLUE VIOLET
??????? (while holding the board up so that back of the board faces you)
?? Though, this can be assigned anyway, for this application of the Arduino, we will make the following
?? assignment:
?? A0 (digital input) for sensing the PTT. Connect to the output of U3 (LM7805) of the BITX40.
????? This way the A0 input will see 0V (LOW) when PTT is not pressed, +5V (HIGH) when PTT is pressed.
?? A1 (digital input) is to connect to a straight key. Open (HIGH) during key up, switch to ground (LOW) during key down.
?? A2 (digital input) can be used for calibration by grounding this line (not required when you have the Function Button at A3).
?? A3 (digital input) is connected to a push button that can momentarily ground this line. This Function Button will be used to switch between different modes, etc.
?? A4 (already in use for talking to the SI5351)
?? A5 (already in use for talking to the SI5351)
?? A6 (analog input) is not currently used
?? A7 (analog input) is connected to a center pin of good quality 100K or 10K linear potentiometer with the two other ends connected to
?????? ground and +5v lines available on the connector. This implments the tuning mechanism.
*/
/**
??? The second set of 16 pins on the bottom connector are have the three clock outputs and the digital lines to control the rig.
??? This assignment is as follows :
????? Pin?? 1?? 2??? 3??? 4??? 5??? 6??? 7??? 8??? 9??? 10?? 11?? 12?? 13?? 14?? 15?? 16
?????????? +5V +5V CLK0? GND? GND? CLK1 GND? GND? CLK2? GND? D2?? D3?? D4?? D5?? D6?? D7
??? These too are flexible with what you may do with them, for the Raduino, we use them to :
??? D7 - TX_RX line : Switches between Transmit and Receive when morse key is used
??? D6 - CW_CARRIER line : turns on the carrier for CW
??? D5 - CW_TONE : Side tone output
*/
73, Allard PE1NWL
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Be careful if you are using the schematic of the raduino from the hfsigs.com website. ?The numbering for P3 ("The second set of 16 pins on the bottom connector...") on the schematic is reversed from Allard's documentation, i.e., 1 is D7...16 is 5V. ?Of course,
you don't need the schematic to wire it up and can safely ignore it and follow Allard's instructions.
73,
Pat AA4PG
Pat Griffin
http://www.cahabatechnology.com
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From the comments in the sketch:
?? The pins are assigned as follows:
????????? A0,?? A1,? A2,? A3,?? GND,?? +5V,? A6,? A7
?????? pin 8???? 7??? 6??? 5???? 4?????? 3??? 2??? 1 (connector P1)
??????? BLACK BROWN RED ORANGE YELLW? GREEN? BLUE VIOLET
??????? (while holding the board up so that back of the board faces you)
?? Though, this can be assigned anyway, for this application of the Arduino, we will make the following
?? assignment:
?? A0 (digital input) for sensing the PTT. Connect to the output of U3 (LM7805) of the BITX40.
????? This way the A0 input will see 0V (LOW) when PTT is not pressed, +5V (HIGH) when PTT is pressed.
?? A1 (digital input) is to connect to a straight key. Open (HIGH) during key up, switch to ground (LOW) during key down.
?? A2 (digital input) can be used for calibration by grounding this line (not required when you have the Function Button at A3).
?? A3 (digital input) is connected to a push button that can momentarily ground this line. This Function Button will be used to switch between different modes, etc.
?? A4 (already in use for talking to the SI5351)
?? A5 (already in use for talking to the SI5351)
?? A6 (analog input) is not currently used
?? A7 (analog input) is connected to a center pin of good quality 100K or 10K linear potentiometer with the two other ends connected to
?????? ground and +5v lines available on the connector. This implments the tuning mechanism.
*/
/**
??? The second set of 16 pins on the bottom connector are have the three clock outputs and the digital lines to control the rig.
??? This assignment is as follows :
????? Pin?? 1?? 2??? 3??? 4??? 5??? 6??? 7??? 8??? 9??? 10?? 11?? 12?? 13?? 14?? 15?? 16
?????????? +5V +5V CLK0? GND? GND? CLK1 GND? GND? CLK2? GND? D2?? D3?? D4?? D5?? D6?? D7
??? These too are flexible with what you may do with them, for the Raduino, we use them to :
??? D7 - TX_RX line : Switches between Transmit and Receive when morse key is used
??? D6 - CW_CARRIER line : turns on the carrier for CW
??? D5 - CW_TONE : Side tone output
*/
73, Allard PE1NWL
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Thanks, Allard. I didn't realize that info was in the sketch itself since I only looked at the Wiki page.
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Dragan 4O4A
Allard PE1NWL
W9ZIM