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Nope, the function button is not the 12v supply wire. ?There's more than one orange wire. ? ?The WireUp diagram only shows the wires he is using in that minimal configuration, you will still have a bunch of loose leads flying off that can be used for other stuff like the function switch. ?The function button goes on on pin 5 of the 8 pin connector. ?See post ?/g/BITX20/message/26669? ??

Look at the schematic for the Raduino at ??? ? A0 of the Nano goes to pin 8 of the 8 pin connector, which is one of the many black wires.

For everything shown in the WireUp webpage, you don't have to solder any wires into any holes on any boards, just use the supplied connector harnesses. ? If you upgrade to Allard's new firmware, he makes use of some of the holes in the Raduino board that don't come with a connector installed, in that case I'd probably just solder a wire to the hole.

A couple weird things about the WireUp diagram: ?The connectors are on the backside of the Raduino, so when wiring it up what you see is a mirror image of what is shown in the diagram. ?Also, the WireUp diagram shows a row of 16 holes with 5 wires coming out of one end, there's only a 5 pin connector already soldered into that end of the row of holes, the other 11 holes don't come with a connector.

Triple check your work when done before powering up, you can easily smoke something if there's a miss-wire. ? Avoid letting anything touch the big heatsink, it's at 12v. ?And put tape over the ends of any loose wires, even if the insulation has not been stripped they can (and do) fly about and touch things they should not. Best to first power up with a really wimpy 12v supply (under 1 Amp) or have a ?fuse inline. ?Except for the PA+12 supply to the IRF510 when transitting, the rig should never want more than 0.2 Amps. ? I'd check everything else out before putting PA+12v to the IRF510. ?Avoid going over 12v, that could blow parts even on receive.

Jerry, KE7ER?