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I just bought a Shars 6" dial caliper after admiring one belonging to a friend. It's probably the best and most durable dial caliper I've ever had. But I also have a Chinese dial caliper that's cheap and less solid-feeling than the Shars. So would it be practical to turn this cheapo dial caliper into the equivalent of a DRO to measure tailstock extension? This would have disadvantages compared with using a digital caliper for this, because you can't change from metric to Imperial and you couldn't hit a button to zero it. But a major advantage is that the batteries would never die. Has anybody tried this? Mike Taglieri On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 7:31 PM davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote: Attachments: 20240220_162703.jpg

I have wanted a mini lathe for years to do small metal turnings around the house, things like thread cutting, radio knobs, shaft couplers, etc. I thought I could just go get a Harbor Freight lathe but I keep reading stuff about having to redo lathes even after you buy them. What's the best lathe that I can get for $1,000, one that I don't have to rebuild before I start using it? Should I spring for over $1,000 and get a Grizzly?

Am I crazy? Too big for my 7x16? I need just to cut/grind/polish the outer surface so it looks nice. I think it has been a 2” axel , see the key slot. Weight 3.5 kg. High carbon steel ? I cut it with an angle grinder: the sparks had a star in the end. Johannes Lavoll.

I have a Littlemachines lathe with really awful DROs. They use V389 batteries that last about a minute. I have the following questions: 1. I'm working on a 3D printed battery holder that allows a AAA battery instead. Is anyone else interested in these? 2. As I researched this, I realized that some of you have found linear DROs that may even be better to position the carriage and cross slide. Can you recommend the best option? It looks like magnetic ones are good for this application, and some cheap Chinese ones are really capacitive, and not as good. 3. Have any of you converted from DROs to old fashioned dial handles? That would be nice in addition, since those don't require any batteries, etc. I kick myself every time I think about having bought the DRO version.

This may be a bit off topic, but I would guess it is applicable for someone wanting to re-motor their lathe. Have one of those 80s Taiwanese drill presses (Cummins Mack). Motor HP isn't listed but it's probably 1/2 or 3/4HP. 100vac single phase. Kind of sick of changing belts and thought one of those variable speed motor conversions would be helpful. I read a lot about how inexpensive these are, but I'm just not seeing it. I probably have 10 motors lying around the shop, all 110VAC single phase of various sizes and RPMs. Looked around for something in the 3/4-1hp range in a 3phase motor on Craigslist, Marketplace, ebay, surplus dealers - they don't seem cheap to me. To get something in the right RPM range (~1700) and standard voltage is at least $100 if not closer to $200. Add another $100-200 for a VFD and that's not my definition of inexpensive. New motors are double that. Read about using a treadmill motor, but word seems to have gotten around about those. They're in the same price range as the 3phase motors, although the controllers seem cheaper. Buying a couple of random treadmills to hope and get the right size motor that's useable seems like a big PITA and here in rural America, getting rid of the rest of the treadmill without the motor isn't exactly easy or cheap. Am I looking at the wrong things, or am I just a cheapskate? Maybe both. I've read it's possible to use a VFD on a single phase motor by bypassing the start capacitor using a start switch to energize it. Having trouble finding good info on what VFD to use. I don't really think I need the drill press to reverse, which is one of the downsides of single phase. Would this be a solution to use the original motor or one of the spares I have lying around?

"The Armstrong threading tool where it's kept sharp by honing the top as the tool wears." I recently got one of these threading tools also (though I think mine is Williams brand rather than Armstrong). It's a great idea: a disk with a 60° angle turned on the edge that you rotate as it wears down. You sharpen it only on top. The head is also canted at the correct angle for threading. I don't want to use a lantern tool post, but there's no reason this can't be clamped somehow onto the regular compound. Here are two photos taken from ebay. (This is not my tool, but looks similar). https://photos.app.goo.gl/KFszY3F1zroDi5A78 https://photos.app.goo.gl/F6zZQZku5PdpRU1N9 Mike Taglieri On Tue, Feb 13, 2024, 10:26 AM Ron K via groups.io <ron.kellis@...> wrote: It does! Thanks. I have two tools I'd like to try just for my own knowledge. The Armstrong threading tool where it's kept sharp by honing the top as the tool wears. An Armstrong goose neck parting tool with the anti-chatter notch. Too many "I'm a gunna." projects in the queue to make one like Mark did, but I've always been curious. Again, thanks! Ron

This what I am planning on doing . Instead of mill the carriage I am moving the not ?" and ?" back for a full 4" movement and a stop for auto feed cross slide later. Adding a ?" spacer for full stoke. Dave

I have used the 6206 bearing in motors and doors. The life for a seal 6206 ball bearing is 20,000 to 60,000 hours. In a mini lathe a lot shorter. Why is it so short? Dave

Here photo my one of my portable DRO'S This 5" [125mm] it clamps to bed and a mag base on the carriage using a ?" aluminum Bar. Works great for snap rings. Dave

looks like all chinese tools have a pin diameter: 10 (mm) they said 10 to 16 mm for the spindle diameter: on the grinder exactly how big is the grinder commen here in america I live in Quebec but all the tools are maybe still some sort of size 5\16 socket 47 71 canuval season quebec

Here drawing on on finger replacement and grade. Dave