开云体育

Ah, that's an idea, start single point, finish with die... thank you very much!!! Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using my hands on teh chuck key something was wrong!

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod (.246") in the stad 3" chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and could not. The rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I tried to crack the jaws closed. Is that as expected, or do I need to do something to my chuck?
--
Regards,
Rich
====================================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


====================================================

If you are serious about this you could try turning a sholder on the rod in order to make the start easier. But what I would do is start the thread with single point then finish it with a die. Single point isn't really that difficult esp if you clean up with a die. Do not forget to use some tap magic or some such cutting fluid (for both the single point work and the die work.) Take it easy tightening that chuck you do not want to damage the scroll.
Regards
Bob

Rich Kleinhenz wrote:

Hello Richard,
A couple of things to look at:
1. I assume you are trying to single point the thread and not trying to use a die. Assuming that is the case start by checking how hard the drill rod is. Will a file cut it? if not then it must be anealed before threading. 2. Single point threading is done with repeated passes each slightly deeper than the one before. Your first pass should barely scratch the surface. There is a lot of info out there on threading in a lathe I am sure others will point you at some of it. The 3 jaw that comes with the 7x10 is a reasonably good chuck I doubt your problems are with it.
Regards
Bob


Rich Kleinhenz wrote:

Greetings,
I got this via e-mail. If anyone is going perhaps we could meet and
network. Based upon what I saw at the last sale in Indiana if you
want a mini-lathe or mini-mill you had better get there when they
open up for business, they only had one of each at the last sale.
Email me at iltrng@.... If any of you are registered with the
mini-mill group please forward this on to them.
Hank

A Homier Mobile Merchant Sale is going to be at the following
location:

THURSDAY, FRIDAY, SATURDAY & SUNDAY
JUNE 12, 13, 14 & 15
NORTH RIDGE PLAZA
1300 NORTH LARKIN AVENUE * IN THE FORMER SERVICE MERCHANDISE
CORNER OF LARKIN AVENUE AND THEODORE STREET
JOLIET, IL
THURS - SAT: 10 AM - 8 PM SUN: 10 AM - 6 PM

My flyer said "IN STORE ONLY"

does the HF 9x20 have true inch lead screws? ie .050"/rev rather than .0625"/rev...???

now, I have to decide if a 9x20 HF is a better choice than an 8x14 Lathermaster....definately cheaper with this promotion given shipping costs with the lathemaster....but is all the extra "start up accessories" with the lathemaster worth it.....I am sure the 8x14 will satisfy my needs size wise.

anyway...I'll toil with my own indecisiveness....JB

"Jim E." <jim0000@...> wrote:
Catalog, or in-store only? Either way, I hope I get the same flyer. I
recently bought one, $649 in-store.

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).

Greetings,

My 13 year old son built Junior Solar Sprint car. The wheels were machined
from black Delrin on the Homier 7x12. We made a new set of lighter wheels
tonight, since he's competing in the Northeast Championship on Sunday. (see
)

The Delrin is wonderful material to machine, except for one annoyance: the
chip comes off as a single, long string. It becomes a big, soft, fuzzy mess
that gets tangled up on the work, the tooling, the live center, the chuck,
etc. It reminds me of poodle fur. We had to stop often to clean off the
fuzz. It's especially annoying when parting off.

Is there anyway to get the chip to break into pieces? Or is it something we
have to live with?

BTW, projects like this are a good way to justify the purchase of machine
tools - "But, dear, it's for the children!"

-Ron

Hi Kelvin,

Frank Hoose's site has lots of info on
the doodads you'll need to actually make things with your lathe. Plus
lots of other useful info on setup, tuning, modifications, etc.

In addition, there is a file on the 7x10 site, "Things You Need.txt"
found here:

Between these two your wallet will be thinner than a super model!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lecompte126"
<lecompte126@h...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I would like to thank every on who replied to my meassage on what
type of mini lathe to buy.

After reading the replys it seam to me the majority went with
Homier's 7x12 Metal Lathe.

I ordered my Sunday night on the internet.

Now from what I understand, it is not ready to run out of the box,

I

have to buy tools for it to be used.

Could anyone give me a list of the tools that I need to buy and

where

to get them.

Can any of these tools be made (there seems to always be a money
shortage around here) with the lathe?

Thank you for your help in this matter.

Kelvin

George,
The first thing is what do you want to do with your lathe? Buy
O.K. quality tools to practice with even if you have lathe experience on
other machines.
The best thing I ever did was get a 5" chuck for mine. It will
hold much more and works much better for some thing that I turn.
Here is the online article about doing it.



I have made bushings, threaded round stock and made little things
for around the shop that I need with my lathe with the 5 inch chuck.
Also a drill chuck, half inch or so is very handy, you can drill
more precise holes on your lathe. Maybe a quick change tool post would
help, I made my own and used a couple of tools, like a knurling tool, that
I purchased from places like Grizzly or Busy Bee.
Plus you have to remember there is never enough money to buy all
of the toys that companies sell, so a good lesson is make them yourself.
Last item that should be the first thing you buy, is the
Machinery's Handbook (an old version will do) and a copy of the Machinists'
Ready Reference. The machinery's handbook is a really wonderful thing to
have, I found a 1964 copy for $20US, plus shipping and the Machinist Ready
Reference was a 1981 copy for $10US. As that you have not indicated that
you are running a factory full of CNC machines, these older editions will
have a great deal of useful information for you and at a bargain price.


Jerry

George,
I just ordered mine as well, off ebay but it's coming from Homier. If
you hav'nt checked out these sights yet go to littlemachineshop.com
(LMS)and mini-lathe.com they are full of good information. To get me
started I ordered cutting bits from mcmaster.com they seem to have
the best pricing so for and really fast shipping. I ordered my drill
chuck from LMS as well as a dial indicator. I'm still tooling up as
well. I guess a larger lathe chuck is in my future soon. Just which
the lathe would show...lol. If you come across any good info cc me.
Thanks,
Craig


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., George Kaplan <kgmk99@y...>
wrote:

Kevin,

I also just ordered a Speedway 7 x 12 metal lathe
from Homier and it is still in route. I am a beginner
and need to also know what tools to purchase. Could
you please forwrd to me any reples that you receive on
your request and I will do the same.

Thanks,

George

--- lecompte126 <lecompte126@h...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I would like to thank every on who replied to my
meassage on what
type of mini lathe to buy.

After reading the replys it seam to me the majority
went with
Homier's 7x12 Metal Lathe.

I ordered my Sunday night on the internet.

Now from what I understand, it is not ready to run
out of the box, I
have to buy tools for it to be used.

Could anyone give me a list of the tools that I need
to buy and where
to get them.

Can any of these tools be made (there seems to
always be a money
shortage around here) with the lathe?

Thank you for your help in this matter.

Kelvin

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).

Kevin,

I also just ordered a Speedway 7 x 12 metal lathe
from Homier and it is still in route. I am a beginner
and need to also know what tools to purchase. Could
you please forwrd to me any reples that you receive on
your request and I will do the same.

Thanks,

George

--- lecompte126 <lecompte126@...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I would like to thank every on who replied to my
meassage on what
type of mini lathe to buy.

After reading the replys it seam to me the majority
went with
Homier's 7x12 Metal Lathe.

I ordered my Sunday night on the internet.

Now from what I understand, it is not ready to run
out of the box, I
have to buy tools for it to be used.

Could anyone give me a list of the tools that I need
to buy and where
to get them.

Can any of these tools be made (there seems to
always be a money
shortage around here) with the lathe?

Thank you for your help in this matter.

Kelvin

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).

Hello everyone,

I would like to thank every on who replied to my meassage on what
type of mini lathe to buy.

After reading the replys it seam to me the majority went with
Homier's 7x12 Metal Lathe.

I ordered my Sunday night on the internet.

Now from what I understand, it is not ready to run out of the box, I
have to buy tools for it to be used.

Could anyone give me a list of the tools that I need to buy and where
to get them.

Can any of these tools be made (there seems to always be a money
shortage around here) with the lathe?

Thank you for your help in this matter.

Kelvin

Catalog, or in-store only? Either way, I hope I get the same flyer. I
recently bought one, $649 in-store.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

John Breitbach wrote:

Just got a mailer yesterday from H.F...$599 for their 9x20.....



signing off,

JB



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).

Hi,
I used this face plate:



For mounting my 5 inch chuck on my little lathe I had to measure and mill
slots for the chuck, but it worked fine for me. I could probably reduce
it's size but cutting the face plate and then smoothing it with a file
while it was turning on the lathe, but it works well the way it is. The
face plate is $12.99 plus shipping.

Jerry

I could not find a suitable back plate on the HF web
site, but this one from LMS may work:



If you are interested in making your own:



Frank Hoose


--- kgmk99 <kgmk99@...> wrote:

I have a new Speedway 7 x 12 mini lathe. I want to
purchse the
Harbour Freigth tools 4" self centering 4 jaw chuck
(part number
47461-0VGA). the chuck requires a backing plate.
Does anybody know
which Harbour Freight Tools backing plate will work
with the self
centering chuck and the Speedway lathe?. I don't
want to do any
modification unless I have to.

Thanks,

George


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__________________________________
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The magnetic sign stock is more user friendly than you might
think - most of it is directionally magnetized. The back side is
strongly magnetic; the face is almost non-magnetized.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

The cross slide lead screw is exposed when the compound is removed
while using the ball fixture so your idea of using a magnetic card
seems like a good one, especially since I often use the ball

fixture

on aluminum.

And, you've convinced me to use a clamp scheme instead of a set

screw

to retain the bearing. I think I can slit the bottom of the

bearing

holder and add a cinch screw to accomplish this. It may look a bit
strange for a while until I come up with a scheme to mill the outer
part of the holder to match the diameter of the dial --
unfortunately, I can't turn it to size and leave a place for the
cinch screw and I don't own a mill so I guess it will take some

extra

ingenuity. Or a visit to a friend with a mill...

Thanks for the advice.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

There's a compound pivot mod that moves the compound's pivot

point

close to an inch towards the centerline of the lathe - should

reduce

the number of times the feedscrew is exposed. Flexible magnetic

sign

material holds onto oily metal better than duct tape & comes free

in

the mail from realtors, long-distance providers, pizza places,

etc.

Using a setscrew on the outer race of a ball bearing is not a

good

plan; the outer race will distort enough to give the bearing
a "notchy" feel if the screw is tight enough to actually hold
anything. Any retention method should distribute the force over

as

much of the bearing as possible.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the info on your mod as well as the link to the

cross

slide mod pictures. I particularly like the way you clamped

the

inner race; if my wild scheme doesn't work out I'll copy yours.

I tend to be a "successive approximation" worker, that is when
possible I try to make things in such a way that the parts can

be

tried prior to completion. The cross slide mod I'm attempting

is

a

good example in that the change to the carriage is now done

plus

I've

completed the lead screw extension and have it in place (but

the

dial

is still where it used to be because I don't have the bearing

yet),

held with a longer bolt. This extension has the groove for the
dial's friction spring as well as the land for the inner

bearing

race

to butt against. All I need now is the bearing and spacer.

The

extension is easily removed so I can revert to the original

setup

quickly, except I can't put the material back into the

carriage :-

)

Pictures of the present state are near the end of the page on

my

lathe site:

There is 5/8" additional thread exposed on the leadscrew so it

will

be quite a bit better than the present setup; I can make the

next

approximation - a new leadscrew - later if necessary.

My scheme for inner race retention is not as positive as yours.

I'm

trying to copy the method used on the minilathe's compound

slide

except that a ball bearing will be included. That is, the

handle

will take the bearing's thrust via the dial. Very few parts

needed

but hard to say if it will have excessive slop - my compound

has

about 3 mils.

I'm still agonizing over a simple way to retain the bearing's

outer

race which would also allow easy disassembly so I can revert to

the

original setup if it doesn't work as I hope. Loctite or a press

fit

would make the bearing more difficult to extract so I'm leaning
toward a set screw.

With the material removed from the carriage I find that the

cross

slide lead screw is exposed when the toolpost is centered as it

is

when using the ball fixture. It's unclear how to protect this

in

a

way which won't interfere with the spacer - another use for

duct

tape, maybe ;-)

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "v45bob" <rosunley@s...>

wrote:

I made a new spacer block, a block to hold two bearings, with

a

washer between the bearing and the spacer block. This allowed

the

bearing outer race to be pinched between the spacer block and

the

bearing block.

I made a new leadscrew, easy as I have a metric leadscrew,

and

turned

the shaft to be 2mm less in diameter than the original. I

also

made

the threaded portion approx 2" longer to allow more travel

for

the

Taig milling attachment I have.

This way I used smaller bearings and a sleeve between the

handle

washer and the bearings to clamp the leadscrew to the inner

race.

the original numbered dial fits over the sleeve and is held

in

place

with a set screw instead of the spring.

I sortof copied someone else's cross slide bearing mod, but

not

sure

where it was/is.

Here it is:

7x12-

Projects/Cross_Slide_Mod/

Bob.

The cross slide lead screw is exposed when the compound is removed
while using the ball fixture so your idea of using a magnetic card
seems like a good one, especially since I often use the ball fixture
on aluminum.

And, you've convinced me to use a clamp scheme instead of a set screw
to retain the bearing. I think I can slit the bottom of the bearing
holder and add a cinch screw to accomplish this. It may look a bit
strange for a while until I come up with a scheme to mill the outer
part of the holder to match the diameter of the dial --
unfortunately, I can't turn it to size and leave a place for the
cinch screw and I don't own a mill so I guess it will take some extra
ingenuity. Or a visit to a friend with a mill...

Thanks for the advice.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

There's a compound pivot mod that moves the compound's pivot

point

close to an inch towards the centerline of the lathe - should

reduce

the number of times the feedscrew is exposed. Flexible magnetic

sign

material holds onto oily metal better than duct tape & comes free

in

the mail from realtors, long-distance providers, pizza places, etc.
Using a setscrew on the outer race of a ball bearing is not a

good

plan; the outer race will distort enough to give the bearing
a "notchy" feel if the screw is tight enough to actually hold
anything. Any retention method should distribute the force over as
much of the bearing as possible.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the info on your mod as well as the link to the cross
slide mod pictures. I particularly like the way you clamped the
inner race; if my wild scheme doesn't work out I'll copy yours.

I tend to be a "successive approximation" worker, that is when
possible I try to make things in such a way that the parts can be
tried prior to completion. The cross slide mod I'm attempting is

a

good example in that the change to the carriage is now done plus

I've

completed the lead screw extension and have it in place (but the

dial

is still where it used to be because I don't have the bearing

yet),

held with a longer bolt. This extension has the groove for the
dial's friction spring as well as the land for the inner bearing

race

to butt against. All I need now is the bearing and spacer. The
extension is easily removed so I can revert to the original setup
quickly, except I can't put the material back into the carriage :-

)

Pictures of the present state are near the end of the page on my
lathe site:

There is 5/8" additional thread exposed on the leadscrew so it

will

be quite a bit better than the present setup; I can make the next
approximation - a new leadscrew - later if necessary.

My scheme for inner race retention is not as positive as yours.

I'm

trying to copy the method used on the minilathe's compound slide
except that a ball bearing will be included. That is, the handle
will take the bearing's thrust via the dial. Very few parts

needed

but hard to say if it will have excessive slop - my compound has
about 3 mils.

I'm still agonizing over a simple way to retain the bearing's

outer

race which would also allow easy disassembly so I can revert to

the

original setup if it doesn't work as I hope. Loctite or a press

fit

would make the bearing more difficult to extract so I'm leaning
toward a set screw.

With the material removed from the carriage I find that the cross
slide lead screw is exposed when the toolpost is centered as it

is

when using the ball fixture. It's unclear how to protect this in

a

way which won't interfere with the spacer - another use for duct
tape, maybe ;-)

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "v45bob" <rosunley@s...>

wrote:

I made a new spacer block, a block to hold two bearings, with a
washer between the bearing and the spacer block. This allowed

the

bearing outer race to be pinched between the spacer block and

the

bearing block.

I made a new leadscrew, easy as I have a metric leadscrew, and

turned

the shaft to be 2mm less in diameter than the original. I also

made

the threaded portion approx 2" longer to allow more travel for

the

Taig milling attachment I have.

This way I used smaller bearings and a sleeve between the

handle

washer and the bearings to clamp the leadscrew to the inner

race.

the original numbered dial fits over the sleeve and is held in

place

with a set screw instead of the spring.

I sortof copied someone else's cross slide bearing mod, but not

sure

where it was/is.

Here it is:

7x12-

Projects/Cross_Slide_Mod/

Bob.

Having three models of Atlas/Sears laths as well as a Unimat SL I feel
qualified to comment on their relative merits. I have had a 12" Atlas
with most of the accessories since 1967 and it has been the workhorse of
my shop. It helped put me through graduate school and start an
engineering business and is the one that I cannot do without. At times I
wish that it had the 24" bed option as that would improve it's stiffness
significantly. The 6" Atlas was bought recently but was nearly unworn and
was very well equipped . I would rate it as second in my shop. The SL
Unimat was my second acquisition and is also well equipped and extremely
precise; probably the most precise lath in the shop. It's only failing is
it's small size. The 7x10 lath that I recently bought for $100 is my
latest acquisition. It is not that much bigger than the SL Unimat and is
still being tuned and tweaked to see what level of performance it can
provide. Finally I have a Champion lathe as sold by Sears. It has the
Vee-Flat bed and an odd planetary back gear that does not seem to be very
strong. Far and away the least desirable lathe in the shop. Just remember
that it easier by far to do small work on a big lathe than big work on a
small lathe!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

I have a new Speedway 7 x 12 mini lathe. I want to purchse the
Harbour Freigth tools 4" self centering 4 jaw chuck (part number
47461-0VGA). the chuck requires a backing plate. Does anybody know
which Harbour Freight Tools backing plate will work with the self
centering chuck and the Speedway lathe?. I don't want to do any
modification unless I have to.

Thanks,

George