7x12MiniLathe@groups.io

Re: No reverse / What to do!

Richard Albers

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kgmk99" <kgmk99@y...> wrote:
I just (2 days ago) received my new (Homier)Speedway 7 x 12 
mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. It worked the 
1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of the forward speed 
in high and low gear. Now reverse does not work at all.  Is 
this a known problem  with the Speedways? What should I do  
about this?  The forword works great!  You already have answers for the "no reverse" problem.

  FYI, these lathes *all* run slower in reverse than forward.  It is
just another "feature".  It appears to actually be intentional, since
there is a resistor added to the circuitry only in reverse.
  Probably to protect us (or our lathes) from ourselves...  It is not
mentioned in the user's manual, AFAIK.

  Has anyone defeated this resistor?  If so, what were the results?

  RA

Re: QCTP question

#544

There are other references for tool setting:
The chuck face is perpendicular to the work.
The tailstock ram is parallel to the work.
   Setting a tool relative to the chuck is easier with a parallel; 
either a rigid 6" rule or a center (fishtail) gauge is handy.  Also, 
the ends of decent rules and the tips of the center gauge are ground 
square to the their bodies; either makes a convenient mini-square 
that's accurate enough for tool setting.
   FWIW, 1/4" pipe is ideal for making 1/2" to 3/8" adaptors: 0.54" 
OD, 0.36"ID  (That's for common, schedule 40 pipe; the less common 
versions have different IDs.)

Roy
 
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
I noticed the toolpost being discussed is round so it looks like you 
set the angle each time you change tools.  I added the Phase II 
toolpost and find setting the angle awkward when it needs to be 
accurately perpendicular to use the parting tool.  The best I've come 
up with is to chuck a rod and use my machinist square to get the 
toolpost angle set before chucking the actual part.  I don't have a 
good way to set the angle accurately with a small part already in the 
chuck (another symptom of newbyitis, probably).  There are times when 
it would be nice to change the angle slightly (to reduce chatter) 
while a part is in the chuck but I can't do this if I intend to 
eventually use the parting tool.

Apparently, you do have a way to set the angle with a part in the 
chuck. Perhaps you could describe how to do this, assuming it would 
work with other toolposts.

Another part of this thread concerned the size of the hole in the 
Phase II boring bar holder being too large.  Mine had the same thing 
(it is meant for bars with larger shanks because the toolpost is 
meant for larger lathes) so I made a split sleeve from aluminum to 
accept my set of inexpensive brazed carbide boring bars with 3/8 
shanks. This works fine; I leave the sleeve in the boring bar when 
changing bars.  I also made a second sleeve to accommodate a couple 
of bars I have with larger shanks so the large bore adds capability. 

The Phase II toolpost/toolholders set is frequently on sale at Enco 
for $89.  It is a bit large for the minilathe and I wound up 
increasing the cross slide travel to accommodate it, see:

 

While it is the most expensive addition I've made to my minilathe, 
the Phase II is well made and works well, especially once the lathe 
is set up for it.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson" 
<sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
Hi Den,
Don't give me the credit for designing this project. I found it on 
the site
below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on this list (Mert
? Jim ?).

I am more than pleased with it. The only thing I would have done differently
is to make the post itself from steel as indicated on the web page. 
I used
LG4 gunmetal mainly because it was the only metal I had handy in the size
required. It works fine but scratches rather easily. If you don't have a
bandsaw or powered hacksaw, now is the time to buy one, cutting 1" 
chunks of
2"x2" Al or steel is going to give you *big* shoulders :-) I cut my 
first
three by hand until I got the bandsaw. Made loads since. I also added a
locknut to the height adjusting screw for obvious reasons.

After I had used it for a while, I got fed up with having to remove 
the top
tool post locking nut just to change holders so I made a new one. It's just
a piece of 1" round bar drilled and tapped M10 (check yours) with a 
hole in
the side for a tommy bar

One thing I'm going to try next time I make a holder is, after boring the
centre hole, to cut a recess in the bottom to just clear the bottom 
lip of
the post. This will allow the holder to sit lower down and so enable me to
use slightly larger tools if needed.

With regard to roughing cuts, with this tool post on, the compound 
will move
before the tool post does, it's that solid!

Hope this helps,

Steve
  -----Original Message-----
  From: denyhstk [mailto:nheng@a...]
  Sent: 07 June 2003 17:41
  To: 7x12minilathe@...
  Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: QCTP question


  Steve:

  I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the
  time for it ... until now.

  I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II.  The
  hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality
  metric hex wrench.  Also, the boring bar holder is bored much too
  large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar.

  The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or maybe
  even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area of
  the cylinder.  How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or
  parting cuts ?

  Thanks for sharing your project !

  Den

  --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson"
  <sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
  > If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've just
  made the
  > one at  . Works a treat.
  >
  > Steve
  >
  >   > Hi:
  >   >
  >   > I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting
  >   the benefits of
  >   > a quick change tool post.  Being on a limited budget, though, I
  was
  >   wondering
  >   > if the model sold by Harbor Freight
  >   (
  >   > Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85.  Has anyone
  >   tried the
  >   > set?  Any problems?  It appears to come with some great
  attacments
  >   and
  >   > tools.  I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other
  tools
  >   I need, and
  >   > money is limited.  Any comments or suggestions would be really
  >   appreciated.
  >   >
  >   > Thanks,
  >   >
  >   > Jason Swan

Re: newbie

Ed Paradis

#543

Greetings Mr. Hawk, if you don't already know, both machines are made 
in the same factory by Sieg.  The main difference is with the 
accessories that are included with the Grizzly.  The Grizzly includes 
the faceplate, steady rest, follow rest (if I remember correctly), 
which if purchased from HF, would not equal the price difference 
between the Homier and the Grizzly.  I opted to get the Homier (total 
was about $360 with shipping) and I used the difference to get the 
other goodies from HF.  The parts are fully interchangeable on both 
machines (actually all of the Sieg machines, such as the HF 7x10, 
Enco 7x10, Northern Tool 7x10, Grizzly 7x12, etc.)  Homier is reputed 
to have an excellent reputation with handling any of the warranty 
issues, I can't speak to how Grizzly handles theirs....

Ed
"Expiring minds want to know..."

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lifes_jeep" <swsmt@a...> wrote:
Hi folks,

I am ready to purchase a 7x12 mini lathe and see a whoppin price 
difference between grizzly and homier. I know the grizzly comes with 
2 extra tools (steady rest and 6 1/4" faceplate). Are there any 
differences in the actual parts of the machines? are some parts more 
rugged on the grizzly (plasctic on homeier? vs. metal on grizzly?)

$299 sure sounds like a real good buy. I wanna get a little lathe and 
then build an upscaled gingery (with around 40" workspace between 
centers)

Choice is important to me since I live only half hour drive from 
grizzly tools and get get parts real easy.

-Hawk-

Re: newbie

#556

-HAWK-
I bought a Grizzly myself  and have been very 
happy with it. There is alot of packing grease to remove! If you have 
a bent chip tray they will replace it no questions asked at least 
they did with me. I have noticed alot of people that have Homier, 
speedway seem to have alot of electrical problems were I have not 
seen many Grizzly lathes with this problem. I know Grizzly has a 
variable speed control. Getting a face plate,dead center and steady 
rest with change gears oil bottle allen wrenches is nice. I 
personally would give you advice to buy carbide tipped toolsteel from 
ENCO before you learn to grind toolsteel. You learn how all the 
shapes work and understand what they are for before you grind plus 
you can work metal right away. I also bought a drill chuck and a 
4inch chuck. I bought alot of toolsteel carbide tipped and T-15 
toolsteel that I need to grind to shape. Most that I purchased came 
from  I use castrol GTX oil in the 
oil bottle. I use TapMagic for cutting fluid. I would give you some 
advice to purchase Part Number: 1362 from Little Machine Shop.
This part will allow you to change gears for thread cutting. Some 
people break the 80T gear trying to get the bushing out of the gear.
You'll be able to change gears faster also. Good Luck!

Anthony


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lifes_jeep" <swsmt@a...> wrote:
Hi folks,

I am ready to purchase a 7x12 mini lathe and see a whoppin price 
difference between grizzly and homier. I know the grizzly comes with 
2 extra tools (steady rest and 6 1/4" faceplate). Are there any 
differences in the actual parts of the machines? are some parts more 
rugged on the grizzly (plasctic on homeier? vs. metal on grizzly?)

$299 sure sounds like a real good buy. I wanna get a little lathe and 
then build an upscaled gingery (with around 40" workspace between 
centers)

Choice is important to me since I live only half hour drive from 
grizzly tools and get get parts real easy.

-Hawk-

Re: QCTP question

John

#542

I noticed the toolpost being discussed is round so it looks like you 
set the angle each time you change tools.  I added the Phase II 
toolpost and find setting the angle awkward when it needs to be 
accurately perpendicular to use the parting tool.  The best I've come 
up with is to chuck a rod and use my machinist square to get the 
toolpost angle set before chucking the actual part.  I don't have a 
good way to set the angle accurately with a small part already in the 
chuck (another symptom of newbyitis, probably).  There are times when 
it would be nice to change the angle slightly (to reduce chatter) 
while a part is in the chuck but I can't do this if I intend to 
eventually use the parting tool.

Apparently, you do have a way to set the angle with a part in the 
chuck. Perhaps you could describe how to do this, assuming it would 
work with other toolposts.

Another part of this thread concerned the size of the hole in the 
Phase II boring bar holder being too large.  Mine had the same thing 
(it is meant for bars with larger shanks because the toolpost is 
meant for larger lathes) so I made a split sleeve from aluminum to 
accept my set of inexpensive brazed carbide boring bars with 3/8 
shanks. This works fine; I leave the sleeve in the boring bar when 
changing bars.  I also made a second sleeve to accommodate a couple 
of bars I have with larger shanks so the large bore adds capability. 

The Phase II toolpost/toolholders set is frequently on sale at Enco 
for $89.  It is a bit large for the minilathe and I wound up 
increasing the cross slide travel to accommodate it, see:

While it is the most expensive addition I've made to my minilathe, 
the Phase II is well made and works well, especially once the lathe 
is set up for it.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson" 
<sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
Hi Den,
Don't give me the credit for designing this project. I found it on the site
below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on this list (Mert
? Jim ?).

I am more than pleased with it. The only thing I would have done differently
is to make the post itself from steel as indicated on the web page. I used
LG4 gunmetal mainly because it was the only metal I had handy in the size
required. It works fine but scratches rather easily. If you don't have a
bandsaw or powered hacksaw, now is the time to buy one, cutting 1" chunks of
2"x2" Al or steel is going to give you *big* shoulders :-) I cut my first
three by hand until I got the bandsaw. Made loads since. I also added a
locknut to the height adjusting screw for obvious reasons.

After I had used it for a while, I got fed up with having to remove the top
tool post locking nut just to change holders so I made a new one. It's just
a piece of 1" round bar drilled and tapped M10 (check yours) with a hole in
the side for a tommy bar

One thing I'm going to try next time I make a holder is, after boring the
centre hole, to cut a recess in the bottom to just clear the bottom lip of
the post. This will allow the holder to sit lower down and so enable me to
use slightly larger tools if needed.

With regard to roughing cuts, with this tool post on, the compound will move
before the tool post does, it's that solid!

Hope this helps,

Steve
  -----Original Message-----
  From: denyhstk [mailto:nheng@a...]
  Sent: 07 June 2003 17:41
  To: 7x12minilathe@...
  Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: QCTP question

  Steve:

  I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the
  time for it ... until now.

  I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II.  The
  hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality
  metric hex wrench.  Also, the boring bar holder is bored much too
  large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar.

  The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or maybe
  even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area of
  the cylinder.  How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or
  parting cuts ?

  Thanks for sharing your project !

  Den

  --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson"
  <sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
  > If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've just
  made the
  > one at  . Works a treat.
  >
  > Steve
  >
  >   > Hi:
  >   >
  >   > I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting
  >   the benefits of
  >   > a quick change tool post.  Being on a limited budget, though, I
  was
  >   wondering
  >   > if the model sold by Harbor Freight
  >   (
  >   > Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85.  Has anyone
  >   tried the
  >   > set?  Any problems?  It appears to come with some great
  attacments
  >   and
  >   > tools.  I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other
  tools
  >   I need, and
  >   > money is limited.  Any comments or suggestions would be really
  >   appreciated.
  >   >
  >   > Thanks,
  >   >
  >   > Jason Swan

Re: QCTP question

Steve Thompson

#541

Hi Den,
Don't give me the credit for designing this project. I found it on the site
below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on this list (Mert
? Jim ?).

I am more than pleased with it. The only thing I would have done differently
is to make the post itself from steel as indicated on the web page. I used
LG4 gunmetal mainly because it was the only metal I had handy in the size
required. It works fine but scratches rather easily. If you don't have a
bandsaw or powered hacksaw, now is the time to buy one, cutting 1" chunks of
2"x2" Al or steel is going to give you *big* shoulders :-) I cut my first
three by hand until I got the bandsaw. Made loads since. I also added a
locknut to the height adjusting screw for obvious reasons.

After I had used it for a while, I got fed up with having to remove the top
tool post locking nut just to change holders so I made a new one. It's just
a piece of 1" round bar drilled and tapped M10 (check yours) with a hole in
the side for a tommy bar

One thing I'm going to try next time I make a holder is, after boring the
centre hole, to cut a recess in the bottom to just clear the bottom lip of
the post. This will allow the holder to sit lower down and so enable me to
use slightly larger tools if needed.

With regard to roughing cuts, with this tool post on, the compound will move
before the tool post does, it's that solid!

Hope this helps,

Steve

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
  From: denyhstk [mailto:nheng@...]
  Sent: 07 June 2003 17:41
  To: 7x12minilathe@...
  Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: QCTP question

  Steve:

  I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the
  time for it ... until now.

  I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II.  The
  hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality
  metric hex wrench.  Also, the boring bar holder is bored much too
  large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar.

  The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or maybe
  even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area of
  the cylinder.  How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or
  parting cuts ?

  Thanks for sharing your project !

  Den

  --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson"
  <sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
  > If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've just
  made the
  > one at  . Works a treat.
  >
  > Steve
  >
  >   > Hi:
  >   >
  >   > I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting
  >   the benefits of
  >   > a quick change tool post.  Being on a limited budget, though, I
  was
  >   wondering
  >   > if the model sold by Harbor Freight
  >   (
  >   > Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85.  Has anyone
  >   tried the
  >   > set?  Any problems?  It appears to come with some great
  attacments
  >   and
  >   > tools.  I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other
  tools
  >   I need, and
  >   > money is limited.  Any comments or suggestions would be really
  >   appreciated.
  >   >
  >   > Thanks,
  >   >
  >   > Jason Swan
  >
  >
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Re: chuck holding power

cwalklin1

#540

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Rich Kleinhenz" 
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:
I was using a die.  Single point is not a problem.  So the chuck is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die-
threading, is that it?  1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no 
problem with 1/4-28.  Just the nature of the beast then, I take it.
-- 
Regards,
Rich
====================================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


====================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Streimikes" <rjs@t...>


1. I assume you are trying to single point the thread and not trying to 
use a die.Use a small piece of emory cloth between the work and the jaws of 
the chuck. It will help to grip the stock. Making sure the "grit" 
side in on the stock.

Re: No reverse / What to do!

George Kaplan

#537

John,

    Thanks for the info. I will contact Homier on
Monday

George
--- John <moran03@...> wrote:
Hi George,

AFIK the forward/reverse is not a common problem
with the Homier 
7x12's. This sounds like a problem with the f/r
switch and Homier 
will likely ship a new one quickly once you contact
them.  I had a 
FET fail and a new board arrived from Homierwithin
10 days - nice 
people to deal with.

Someone else in this group may have more knowledge
than I on the 
common  electrical problems.  To contact owners who
are guaranteed to 
be knowledgable on the lathe's electrical problems
you might try the 
group which specializes in this area:
 

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kgmk99"
<kgmk99@y...> wrote:
I just (2 days ago) received my new(Homier)Speedway 7 x 12 
mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. Itworked the 
1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of theforward speed 
in high and low gear. Now reverse does not work atall.  Is 
this a known problem  with the Speedways? Whatshould I do  
about this?  The forword works great!

George
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!

Re: No reverse / What to do!

John

#536

Hi George,

AFIK the forward/reverse is not a common problem with the Homier 
7x12's. This sounds like a problem with the f/r switch and Homier 
will likely ship a new one quickly once you contact them.  I had a 
FET fail and a new board arrived from Homierwithin 10 days - nice 
people to deal with.

Someone else in this group may have more knowledge than I on the 
common  electrical problems.  To contact owners who are guaranteed to 
be knowledgable on the lathe's electrical problems you might try the 
group which specializes in this area:
 

John

Show quoted text

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kgmk99" <kgmk99@y...> wrote:
I just (2 days ago) received my new (Homier)Speedway 7 x 12 
mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. It worked the 
1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of the forward speed 
in high and low gear. Now reverse does not work at all.  Is 
this a known problem  with the Speedways? What should I do  
about this?  The forword works great!

George

No reverse / What to do!

kgmk99

#535

I just (2 days ago) received my new (Homier)Speedway 7 x 12 
mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. It worked the 
1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of the forward speed 
in high and low gear. Now reverse does not work at all.  Is 
this a known problem  with the Speedways? What should I do  
about this?  The forword works great!

George

Re: Cross Slide Lead Screw vs Brass Nut ?

Richard Albers

#534

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
As part of adding a ball bearing and more travel to my cross slide I 
removed the cross slide lead screw.  I noted a sludge on the lead 
screw which looks like powdered brass mixed with grease.

I suspect that the lead screw threads were simply cut and not 
polished.  The surface finish on the lead screw seems to be chewing 
away on the soft brass and this process will probably continue since 
the brass won't polish the roughness off the steel. I suspect you are right.

Is polishing the lead screw a good thing to attempt? Is there a 
better way of polishing the lead screw?  I think so, although I have never tried it.
  I have *lapped* a lead screw thread on another machine, and it does
seem to have worked well.
  I cut a matching thread in a piece of aluminum (it needs to be
something soft).  I cut that in half across the thread, and put two
screws in to clamp it back together on the thread to be lapped. I
used a little lapping compound while running the lapping tool back
and forth by running the lathe in forward and reverse.  Every few
trips (laps?) I tightened the screws slightly, keeping it just tight
enough to feel a slight drag.  I think it would be easier to get it
too tight than too loose - too loose would just require a little more
lapping.

  I hope that is clear enough.  If you have questions on the process,
just ask.

RA

Re: chuck holding power

Richard Albers

#533

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz 
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:
Ah, that's an idea, start single point, finish with die...  thank you very much!!!  Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe 
extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using my 
hands on teh chuck key something was wrong!

  If you really want to thread that drill rod with a die, get a 4-jaw
(independent) chuck.  You can get those jaws much tighter than with
a 3-jaw.  Without damaging the chuck, too.  ;-)

  For some good information on single-point threading, see:


ad.txt 

  You will probably need to cut and paste that onto one line, or just
go to:  

and get the only file there.  It helped me learn to cut threads.

  RA

Re: Cross Slide Lead Screw vs Brass Nut ?

#532

A "Thread Restoring File" will do a better job of refining the 
threads than free-hand sandpaper.  You'll need one that includes 
M1.0; should be available from a local auto parts store.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
As part of adding a ball bearing and more travel to my cross slide I 
removed the cross slide lead screw.  I noted a sludge on the lead 
screw which looks like powdered brass mixed with grease.

I suspect that the lead screw threads were simply cut and not 
polished.  The surface finish on the lead screw seems to be chewing 
away on the soft brass and this process will probably continue since 
the brass won't polish the roughness off the steel. While this is not 
unexpected given the difference in hardness, the amount of sludge 
indicates a lot of wear in a few months of use.

I'm considering chucking this lead screw (from the knob end) and 
spinning it while using very fine sandpaper pressed into the threads 
with my fingernails - this is the way I often polish threads that I 
cut since they usually seem a little rough unless this is done.

Is polishing the lead screw a good thing to attempt? Is there a 
better way of polishing the lead screw? Is there a better way of 
reducing wear to the brass nut? Any references to articles on the net 
addressing this?

John

Re: QCTP question

#539

Steve:

I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the 
time for it ... until now.

I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II.  The 
hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality 
metric hex wrench.  Also, the boring bar holder is bored much too 
large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar.

The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or maybe 
even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area of 
the cylinder.  How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or 
parting cuts ?

Thanks for sharing your project !

Den

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson" 
<sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've just made the
one at  . Works a treat.

Steve

  > Hi:
  >
  > I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting
  the benefits of
  > a quick change tool post.  Being on a limited budget, though, I was
  wondering
  > if the model sold by Harbor Freight
  (
  > Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85.  Has anyone
  tried the
  > set?  Any problems?  It appears to come with some great attacments
  and
  > tools.  I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools
  I need, and
  > money is limited.  Any comments or suggestions would be really
  appreciated.
  >
  > Thanks,
  >
  > Jason Swan

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Cross Slide Lead Screw vs Brass Nut ?

John

#531

As part of adding a ball bearing and more travel to my cross slide I 
removed the cross slide lead screw.  I noted a sludge on the lead 
screw which looks like powdered brass mixed with grease.

I suspect that the lead screw threads were simply cut and not 
polished.  The surface finish on the lead screw seems to be chewing 
away on the soft brass and this process will probably continue since 
the brass won't polish the roughness off the steel. While this is not 
unexpected given the difference in hardness, the amount of sludge 
indicates a lot of wear in a few months of use.

I'm considering chucking this lead screw (from the knob end) and 
spinning it while using very fine sandpaper pressed into the threads 
with my fingernails - this is the way I often polish threads that I 
cut since they usually seem a little rough unless this is done.

Is polishing the lead screw a good thing to attempt? Is there a 
better way of polishing the lead screw? Is there a better way of 
reducing wear to the brass nut? Any references to articles on the net 
addressing this?

John

Re: chuck holding power

#530

Are you sure that it is not hardened?  Some users have
confused drill ROD with drill BLANKS. Drill blanks are
hardened and can't be turned in the lathe.  Drill rod
can also be in a hardened state that can't be turned.

I have cut a number of threads in drill rod without
too much trouble, although, as Roy points out, it is
not the easiest material to work with compared with
brass or aluminum.

--- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
   The chuck will improve if it's reduced to its
component parts, 
deburred and lubricated.  There's usually one jaw
that binds against 
the body, reducing the clamping force.
   All that being said, drill rod is a real bear to
get clean threads 
on.  Single point roughing followed by a die is a
winning method, 
enhanced with a thread file for final finish.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Rich
Kleinhenz" 
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:
I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod(.246") in the stad 3" 
chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and
could not.  The 
rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I
tried to crack the 
jaws closed.  Is that as expected, or do I need to
do something to my 
chuck?
-- 
Regards,
Rich
====================================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


====================================================

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Re: chuck holding power

#529

The chuck will improve if it's reduced to its component parts, 
deburred and lubricated.  There's usually one jaw that binds against 
the body, reducing the clamping force.
   All that being said, drill rod is a real bear to get clean threads 
on.  Single point roughing followed by a die is a winning method, 
enhanced with a thread file for final finish.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Rich Kleinhenz" 
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:
I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod (.246") in the stad 3" chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and could not.  The 
rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I tried to crack the 
jaws closed.  Is that as expected, or do I need to do something to my 
chuck?
-- 
Regards,
Rich
====================================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


====================================================

Re: chuck holding power

Rich Kleinhenz

#525

I was using a die.  Single point is not a problem.  So the chuck is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die-threading, is that it?  1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no problem with 1/4-28.  Just the nature of the beast then, I take it.
-- 
Regards,
Rich
====================================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


====================================================

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Streimikes" <rjs@...>


1. I assume you are trying to single point the thread and not trying to 
use a die.

Re: Scissor Knurling Tool

Richard Kleinhenz

#528

I have a cheapie from LMS.  The mounting bar ripped off the first time I used it.  I retapped for 8-32 and it's worked OK since.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

Show quoted text

On 6/5/2003 at 5:16 PM phrak9 wrote:
Anyone have any suggestions on who sells a scissor knurling tool for a
speedway mini lathe?  I have a TS engineering QC toolpost on the lathe
<
--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

Re: chuck holding power

Richard Kleinhenz

#527

Ah, that's an idea, start single point, finish with die...  thank you very much!!!  Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using my hands on teh chuck key something was wrong!

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

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