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Re: Large work holding

 

You could slide the tail stock up with a running centre inserted to help hold the flywheel more safely whilst stuck to your faceplate. Terry UK


Re: Using the mini lathe

 

One many uses for lathe was line boring engines back around 1900 . Witch can still be done today .? Back 1900 they would make a jig to hold the casting on lathe carriage.?
Most lathes back in 1900 had tee slots for this work..?

Manufacturer would use lathe for almost everything in 1900.?

Dave?


Re: Large work holding

 

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Hi Dave. When I needed to turn a large disk. I used a right hand boring bar, mounted at the back of the 4 way tool post with the cutting edge facing forward. That way I gained extra distance, using standard parts.

HTH

????? ?????Ellis

?

?

?

While challenging, you can probably do it on the 7 inch lathe.? Getting the cutting tool out that far will be a bigger challenge than just holding it.

?

Superglue can be a legitimate method for work holding.? Is this a solid flywheel?? If not and it has, or will have, some spokes or similar feature you may be able to hold it by bolting through openings with perhaps a little fixturing (little pieces of plate to act as big washers).

?

You can always try on the small lathe.? And if it doesn't work out, then find something larger.

?

Usually the "swing" of a lathe is not really a practical diameter to machine, but more as a dimension for something that large on which you are machining a much small feature.? But machine a disk is possible.? I machined a 16 inch disk on my 12x36 lathe but it had a gap bed permitting an 18 inch swing.? And I have machined a 6 inch diameter disk on my 7x16 MicroMark and then made a cut to make it a donut (to ultimately be curved trim pieces for a project), but it was wood, so I don't think that counts.

?

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer.


Re: Large work holding

 

First.? Sorry, I didn't notice "aluminum" in the first post.? I would definitely want to do the turning and drilling/boring the center hole in the SAME setup.

The forces on the part will be toward the headstock and in shear.? Cementing to the face place should require a very high force to break the shear strength.

If the faceplate is a bit small, you could bolt a piece of something like 1/4" thick aluminum (or steel, or whatever) plate to it.? Round, or perhaps even square 6 or 7 inches diagonal.? Slightly recessed flathead screws to mount it to the faceplate.? Then cement your part to it and you will have more square inches cemented.

You could mount to the faceplate as is and just experiment a little to see if it is strong enough.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 08:58:33 PM PDT, Miket_NYC <mctaglieri@...> wrote:


Any flywheel will obviously have a hole in the middle, and probably a threaded hole. Drill and tap a hole first for 1/4" threaded rod (or whatever you have handy). That, plus the superglue, should hold it.? If you can't center the hole exactly without using the lathe, don't worry about it. You can always move it somewhat later on.

For more reach with the tool, here's an adjustable tool post I made years ago for my homemade QCTP.? I offset the toolpost about an inch from the Allen screws that attach it to the cross slide,? mostly for convenience.? But you could make something similar with the tool offset as much as you need to in order to move the tool back to reach the perimeter.

Mike Taglieri?


On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 02:57:00 PM PDT, David James via <davebjames=[email protected]> wrote:


I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo

Attachments:


Re: Large work holding

 

Any flywheel will obviously have a hole in the middle, and probably a threaded hole. Drill and tap a hole first for 1/4" threaded rod (or whatever you have handy). That, plus the superglue, should hold it.? If you can't center the hole exactly without using the lathe, don't worry about it. You can always move it somewhat later on.

For more reach with the tool, here's an adjustable tool post I made years ago for my homemade QCTP.? I offset the toolpost about an inch from the Allen screws that attach it to the cross slide,? mostly for convenience.? But you could make something similar with the tool offset as much as you need to in order to move the tool back to reach the perimeter.

Mike Taglieri?


On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 02:57:00 PM PDT, David James via <davebjames=[email protected]> wrote:


I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo


Re: Large work holding

 

I have done thousands of wheels from plate.
I just drill 3 holes for chuck jaw to fit the plate. This way I machine the diameter and bore at same time.

Dave?


On Tue, Jun 11, 2024 at 02:56 PM, David James wrote:
I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo


Re: Large work holding

 

Superglue can work for small parts, but I would not trust it for large.? Keep in mind that the tool force on the rim of a 6" disc is SIX TIMES that of a 1" disc.? And an interrupted cut could send your part flying.? Don't risk ruining your part for an experiment.

I'll add one suggestion for workholding, that of drilling and tapping the backside to hold the part to the faceplate while machining the front and rim.? You're likely to have spokes, so much of the material is going to disappear anyway.? And once spokes are created other means to mount the part to the faceplate are obvious.

Mike


Re: Large work holding

 

One thing I forgot to mention was it might not be possible if it is a cast iron flywheel.? I don't think the material was mentioned.

Cast iron typically has a VERY hard surface scale.? It requires an initial cut deep enough to get under the scale and the mini-lathe just doesn't have the power (and probably not the strength) for a cut that heavy on a larger part.? If you try to "take off a little at a time', the tool bit will tend to just scrape and dull.? One workaround is to first grind off the scale.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 03:38:07 PM PDT, Bruce J <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:


How will the flywheel mount to the engine? Maybe drill a smaller hole where the hub will go and mount it on an arbor to turn it? ?What do you have to do to it? Any opportunity to clamp it to the faceplate via holes that won’t be there when it’s finished (like if there will be be spokes or a cutout?) even if there aren’t, ?

I know Clickspring uses superglue a lot but I think 6” x 1” is a little big for that.

On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:56?PM, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:

I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo

--?
Bruce Johnson

The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.


Re: Large work holding

 

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??? ??? Is it something that ya have to machine to a certain tolerance or is just something that has to be pretty close to what yer after ? If there's no tolerance needed drill a small hole in the center & put a bolt through the hole & tighten it up with a coupler nut . Then ya can put the coupler nut in the chuck & go to town . Ya can even. use this method to get it close & then remount it for the final machining? .

animal

On 6/11/24 3:54 PM, John Mattis wrote:

With a live ball bearing center run it up.agains?the work piece?to help hole it in place.
You can also put some holes in the part and boldt it to the face plate.
John Mattis

On Tue, Jun 11, 2024 at 2:56?PM David James via <davebjames=[email protected]> wrote:
I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo


Re: Large work holding

 

With a live ball bearing center run it up.agains?the work piece?to help hole it in place.
You can also put some holes in the part and boldt it to the face plate.
John Mattis

On Tue, Jun 11, 2024 at 2:56?PM David James via <davebjames=[email protected]> wrote:
I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo


Re: Large work holding

 

I have used superglue many times to hold small jobs. It works, especially for thin parts such as aluminum sheets, etc. I also want to share a strange experience. I found the original ($$) superglue by Loctite failing often. That made me try a cheap superglue sold in a Dollar store. It worked much better.?

-Prasad
Eastern PA



On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 06:11:51 PM EDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:


While challenging, you can probably do it on the 7 inch lathe.? Getting the cutting tool out that far will be a bigger challenge than just holding it.

Superglue can be a legitimate method for work holding.? Is this a solid flywheel?? If not and it has, or will have, some spokes or similar feature you may be able to hold it by bolting through openings with perhaps a little fixturing (little pieces of plate to act as big washers).

You can always try on the small lathe.? And if it doesn't work out, then find something larger.

Usually the "swing" of a lathe is not really a practical diameter to machine, but more as a dimension for something that large on which you are machining a much small feature.? But machine a disk is possible.? I machined a 16 inch disk on my 12x36 lathe but it had a gap bed permitting an 18 inch swing.? And I have machined a 6 inch diameter disk on my 7x16 MicroMark and then made a cut to make it a donut (to ultimately be curved trim pieces for a project), but it was wood, so I don't think that counts.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer.??

On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 02:57:00 PM PDT, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:


I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo


Re: Large work holding

 

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How will the flywheel mount to the engine? Maybe drill a smaller hole where the hub will go and mount it on an arbor to turn it? ?What do you have to do to it? Any opportunity to clamp it to the faceplate via holes that won’t be there when it’s finished (like if there will be be spokes or a cutout?) even if there aren’t, ?

I know Clickspring uses superglue a lot but I think 6” x 1” is a little big for that.

On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:56?PM, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:

I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo

--?
Bruce Johnson

The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.


Re: Large work holding

 

While challenging, you can probably do it on the 7 inch lathe.? Getting the cutting tool out that far will be a bigger challenge than just holding it.

Superglue can be a legitimate method for work holding.? Is this a solid flywheel?? If not and it has, or will have, some spokes or similar feature you may be able to hold it by bolting through openings with perhaps a little fixturing (little pieces of plate to act as big washers).

You can always try on the small lathe.? And if it doesn't work out, then find something larger.

Usually the "swing" of a lathe is not really a practical diameter to machine, but more as a dimension for something that large on which you are machining a much small feature.? But machine a disk is possible.? I machined a 16 inch disk on my 12x36 lathe but it had a gap bed permitting an 18 inch swing.? And I have machined a 6 inch diameter disk on my 7x16 MicroMark and then made a cut to make it a donut (to ultimately be curved trim pieces for a project), but it was wood, so I don't think that counts.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer.??

On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 02:57:00 PM PDT, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:


I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo


Large work holding

 

I have a 6" x 1" round piece of aluminum that I need to turn into a flywheel for the model engine I am building. I was thinking of using superglue to secure it to my faceplate as it obviously does not fit in any of my chucks.
Any suggestions how to hold this or should I go looking for someone with a bigger lathe.

Dave
Borneo


Re: Using the mini lathe

 

I've thought about using it for a magneto tester, but I haven't done it yet.
?
Brian
?

On 06/11/2024 1:39 PM EDT davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
?
?
I hoping others post other uses for mini lathe .

I have it paints lines shafts.
Note use bedway covers I like plywood with cleats to hold in place

Winding coils.?

Please post your other uses

Dave?


Re: Using the mini lathe

 

I hoping others post other uses for mini lathe .

I have it paints lines shafts.
Note use bedway covers I like plywood with cleats to hold in place

Winding coils.?

Please post your other uses

Dave?


Re: Using the mini lathe

 

For screw machines they a lubricating cutting.?

The only two problems with oil coolant is cost and it is not clean.

Dave?


Re: Using the mini lathe

 

Such coolant is called "flood cooling."? It is water with emulsified oil and usually rust inhibitors.? Water conducts heat well, but oil does not.? Oil lubricates well, but water does not.? The most important lubrication is of the of the cutting tool edges to help prevent metal buildup on them.? You still clean such machines, but perhaps not as often.? There are a lot of CNC machines out there, true.? But also, still a lot of manual machines.? Many vendors of lathes sell manual versions from Griizzly on up.

There is also mist cooling which can be a good choice for smaller machines especially in a home shop.? (Flood cooling requires more such as the means to pump it, collect it, strain it, and recirculate it.)? The spray coolant is also water with oil.? And some of the cooling happens with the evaporation of water in the spray stream and after it lands.? However, it is more risky to leave this sitting on bare metal for a long time and it is best to clean the machine and normally re-oil surfaces when done.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 05:23:44 PM PDT, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@...> wrote:



In a professional environment with larger machines and near constant use, they are typically taken care of daily and "way oil" is used to protect ways and similar sliding surfaces.

It this still true? ? ?The professional lathes I’ve seen all seem to be enclosed in a plexiglass enclosure and are pouring a flood of coolant on the part. ? ?How does this coolant interact with the lubrication? ? ? I know our little machines don’t have coolant systems but I’ve wondered how it works that a “fire hose” of what looks like water-based coolant would work if there were oil in the moving parts.


Re: Using the mini lathe

Chris Albertson
 

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In a professional environment with larger machines and near constant use, they are typically taken care of daily and "way oil" is used to protect ways and similar sliding surfaces.

It this still true? ? ?The professional lathes I’ve seen all seem to be enclosed in a plexiglass enclosure and are pouring a flood of coolant on the part. ? ?How does this coolant interact with the lubrication? ? ? I know our little machines don’t have coolant systems but I’ve wondered how it works that a “fire hose” of what looks like water-based coolant would work if there were oil in the moving parts.


Re: Using the mini lathe

 

I agree?

The main lathe I owned and used for amost 30 years a 17" i purchased new. Keep well oil and no wear on any part of lathe.
The lathe did have a oil bath cross slide screw The only lathe new that had a oil bath.?

I gallon of way lubrication I use.
LMS has pints too

Dave?


On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 08:42 AM, Charles Kinzer wrote:
?
I suspect that in the mini-lathe world, most get relatively light and intermittent use.? So low, that you probably couldn't wear the ways all that much during a lifetime oiled or not.? The greater risk is likely rust in the amateur machining world.
?
However, being really careless, like getting a lot of grinding dust all over everything, might certainly speed up wear.? But even then, I doubt if most would live long enough to see a problem.
?
In a professional environment with larger machines and near constant use, they are typically taken care of daily and "way oil" is used to protect ways and similar sliding surfaces. Way oil is special because it has a "tackifier" that helps it stay put (doesn't run off), even on vertical surfaces (rather handy for milling machines) and provides good lubrication to lower friction.? But for the mini-lathe, probably most any oil will do with the important thing being that at least something is put on the bare metal ways and other surfaces.
?
But if you want to use actual "way oil", you can get a small 12 oz. bottle from Grizzly that will probably last you a lifetime.
?
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 08:20:47 AM PDT, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
?
?
The manufacturers found biggest wear to bed ways on lathes and Mills.? ?Is no lubrication.?
The manufacturers have putting automatic pumping oil but still the machinist can not fill the the oil tank or even look the oil gauge.?

Dave?