Re: how to.inspect.motor?
RE: "
?It has a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out the slots"
I thought someone?had said it was not a good idea to use a hacksaw?blade.
I know the Armature lathes have a rotating mental bit to clean the slots.
So is there a difference?
Ralph
I have another armature lathe , that I bought 20=30 years back .
Had no idea what it was , I have a weakness for things that seem
bitchin & much to my wife's dismay I have way to many . It has
a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out the slots
. After kicking it around for a bunch of years I bought the one I
posted earlier & When I did a Ebay search to see what the
Tru-Arc armature lathes were going for low & behold there was
a guy selling the twin to the old bitchin one , let me see if I
can find a link to that one . It's nowhere as fancy as the Tru-arc
.
animal
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to clean out
the insulation. Some may require a bit of modifying to fit
properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT, mike allen
<animal@...> wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've
seen them on ebay & at some flea markets . the
motor has that long skinny shaft with a little star
washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans out the
grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I can
find a longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a
bud's place , We were thinkin on doing some
automotive alternator windmills , but life got in
the way . I installed some new power in our local
NAPA auto parts for their new alternator tester?
when he said gimme a bill I told him I wanted the
old tester , we were gearing up & then .....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks have
a couple of the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of
them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had one
a ways back they may still ?
animal
On
7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via wrote:
Mike,?
.
I
have never seen one of these and this unit clearly
has a label identifying its'-self.
Is
this your actual lathe or similar to yours?
What
does the motor do? Help with balancing? Missing a
chuck that has a cutter to clear the grooves between
the armature contacts?
Does
it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice
history lesson.
On
7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a
yard sale . I asked the guy how much for te armature
lathe & he said " is that what that is " . He
gave it to me cause I was the only guy out of 50-75
people that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya
can get it cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper
over teh years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper
. Here's some scotch pad info that some of ya may
find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000)
1200-1500 grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800)
800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600)
600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand -
(320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320)
240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150
grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150)
60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600
grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On
7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You
don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean
it.
?
By
turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by
hand, holding? the sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s
some good pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda
rough” is an understatement.? Basically that
carbon can build up between the copper rails and
cause a short, might be your problem.? But yeah,
shiny & smooth is good.? Once you get all
the black gunk off you be able to see if there
any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to
fix, things like gouges & pitting.
?
What
do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My
other lathe is not running so I cannot turn the
commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
I have another armature lathe , that I bought 20=30 years back .
Had no idea what it was , I have a weakness for things that seem
bitchin & much to my wife's dismay I have way to many . It has
a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out the slots
. After kicking it around for a bunch of years I bought the one I
posted earlier & When I did a Ebay search to see what the
Tru-Arc armature lathes were going for low & behold there was
a guy selling the twin to the old bitchin one , let me see if I
can find a link to that one . It's nowhere as fancy as the Tru-arc
.
animal
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to clean out
the insulation. Some may require a bit of modifying to fit
properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT, mike allen
<animal@...> wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've
seen them on ebay & at some flea markets . the
motor has that long skinny shaft with a little star
washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans out the
grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I can
find a longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a
bud's place , We were thinkin on doing some
automotive alternator windmills , but life got in
the way . I installed some new power in our local
NAPA auto parts for their new alternator tester?
when he said gimme a bill I told him I wanted the
old tester , we were gearing up & then .....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks have
a couple of the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of
them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had one
a ways back they may still ?
animal
On
7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via groups.io wrote:
Mike,?
.
I
have never seen one of these and this unit clearly
has a label identifying its'-self.
Is
this your actual lathe or similar to yours?
What
does the motor do? Help with balancing? Missing a
chuck that has a cutter to clear the grooves between
the armature contacts?
Does
it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice
history lesson.
On
7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a
yard sale . I asked the guy how much for te armature
lathe & he said " is that what that is " . He
gave it to me cause I was the only guy out of 50-75
people that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya
can get it cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper
over teh years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper
. Here's some scotch pad info that some of ya may
find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000)
1200-1500 grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800)
800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600)
600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand -
(320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320)
240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150
grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150)
60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600
grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On
7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You
don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean
it.
?
By
turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by
hand, holding? the sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s
some good pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda
rough” is an understatement.? Basically that
carbon can build up between the copper rails and
cause a short, might be your problem.? But yeah,
shiny & smooth is good.? Once you get all
the black gunk off you be able to see if there
any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to
fix, things like gouges & pitting.
?
What
do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My
other lathe is not running so I cannot turn the
commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
You can do a pretty good job by just using a strip of abrasive paper in a shoe-shine motion with the armature held in a vise or clamped to something convenient. I did quite a few motors that way before I got a lathe. It works because you're not really removing much metal & the natural tendency is to automatically? make repeated motions the same way.
Roy
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Here's a pretty comprehensive guide to actually available belts & pulleys:
?< >
Roy
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
You do NOT need to remove the timing belt from the lathe , just from the motor pulley. You may need to remove the lead screw to remove the nuts that hold the motor to the lathe bed. You should not need to remove anything more than the gear and key on the left end of the lead screw and the support bracket at its right end to remove the lead screw.
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Thanks for the help. I will have to clear a space to dismantle the lathe for further inspection. That will not be easy!
Ralph
On Tue, Jul 2, 2024 at 12:52?PM Tony Smith via <ajsmith1968= [email protected]> wrote: The holders should be fixed firmly to the end cap, and lined up directly to the one on the other side.? The brush should have just enough clearance to slide in & out, but not wobble about. ? I think the brush might have been damaged from all the crap on the commutator. ? Tony ? ? ? You should remove the motor endcap nearest the brushed, then install the brushes as they were and see what is going on with them.? Things will be a little bit loose, but you should see why the one brush is wearing unevenly.? Try each brush in each hole, and even turn the brushes 180 degrees, (like a drill, not a pizza) and see if they fit better or worse in 1 attitude or the other. Turn the main armature and see if the brushed become dislodged, they should remain perfectly perpendicular as you spin the armature. Continue disassembly and clean all of the carbon dust out of the interior and reassemble with? a drop of oil on the bearings. If the bearings have even the smallest amount ow wear, the motor can fail to run. The shaft can become out of center with the magnetic field and lock up while power is applied and then turn smooth again without power. On 7/1/2024 5:23 PM, Tony Smith wrote: You really need to check if that holder is bent or loose.? That commutator shouldn’t be the that black.? Or any sort of black really, it needs cleaning. ? Doing both isn’t too hard.? You need to pull the end cap off, just take those 4 bolts out.? The cap will be on tight, you might need to tap it off with a hammer.? Once you get that off the armature should come out.? Would help if you take the pulley off.? The bearing in the end cap often hinders things, just slowly work at it. ? Before you do that put some marks on the case so you know how to put it back together. ? Just check the brush holders for anything “odd”.? Loose, cracked, bent, etc.? That brush shouldn’t be angled, and neither should the holder. ? Cleaning the commutator is basically using fine sandpaper(600 grit or better) ?to get back to the copper.? Use a solvent and brush to get as much of the crud off as you can.? Put the armature into the lathe, wrap a strip of sandpaper around the commutator (like you’re not supposed to do) and spin it.? Powering up the lathe would make it easier, but y’know.? If you’ve got a drill stick it in there. ? Go easy, the copper is hardened, but it’s copper.? It won’t take long. ? It’s possible the commutator is worn, but unlikely.? The fix is you just simply turn it down in the lathe, but again. yeah k’know. ? Once? that’s done find something to clean out the slots in the commutator, a hard plastic tool or the like.? Don’t use a knife etc.? There are mica insulators down in the slots, again be gentle and don’t damage those.? You want to get all the carbon & copper dust out. ? Wipe it down with the solvent, put it back together and see how it runs.? ? Tony ? ? ? Here is a video viewing the commutator and brush holder.
Attachments: - Brushes 1.mp4
?
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
The holders should be fixed firmly to the end cap, and lined up directly to the one on the other side.? The brush should have just enough clearance to slide in & out, but not wobble about. ? I think the brush might have been damaged from all the crap on the commutator. ? Tony ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jon Rus via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2024 12:56 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] how to.inspect.motor?? You should remove the motor endcap nearest the brushed, then install the brushes as they were and see what is going on with them.? Things will be a little bit loose, but you should see why the one brush is wearing unevenly.? Try each brush in each hole, and even turn the brushes 180 degrees, (like a drill, not a pizza) and see if they fit better or worse in 1 attitude or the other. Turn the main armature and see if the brushed become dislodged, they should remain perfectly perpendicular as you spin the armature. Continue disassembly and clean all of the carbon dust out of the interior and reassemble with? a drop of oil on the bearings. If the bearings have even the smallest amount ow wear, the motor can fail to run. The shaft can become out of center with the magnetic field and lock up while power is applied and then turn smooth again without power. On 7/1/2024 5:23 PM, Tony Smith wrote: You really need to check if that holder is bent or loose.? That commutator shouldn’t be the that black.? Or any sort of black really, it needs cleaning. ? Doing both isn’t too hard.? You need to pull the end cap off, just take those 4 bolts out.? The cap will be on tight, you might need to tap it off with a hammer.? Once you get that off the armature should come out.? Would help if you take the pulley off.? The bearing in the end cap often hinders things, just slowly work at it. ? Before you do that put some marks on the case so you know how to put it back together. ? Just check the brush holders for anything “odd”.? Loose, cracked, bent, etc.? That brush shouldn’t be angled, and neither should the holder. ? Cleaning the commutator is basically using fine sandpaper(600 grit or better) ?to get back to the copper.? Use a solvent and brush to get as much of the crud off as you can.? Put the armature into the lathe, wrap a strip of sandpaper around the commutator (like you’re not supposed to do) and spin it.? Powering up the lathe would make it easier, but y’know.? If you’ve got a drill stick it in there. ? Go easy, the copper is hardened, but it’s copper.? It won’t take long. ? It’s possible the commutator is worn, but unlikely.? The fix is you just simply turn it down in the lathe, but again. yeah k’know. ? Once? that’s done find something to clean out the slots in the commutator, a hard plastic tool or the like.? Don’t use a knife etc.? There are mica insulators down in the slots, again be gentle and don’t damage those.? You want to get all the carbon & copper dust out. ? Wipe it down with the solvent, put it back together and see how it runs.? ? Tony ? ? ? Here is a video viewing the commutator and brush holder.
Attachments: - Brushes 1.mp4
?
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to clean out the insulation. Some may require a bit of modifying to fit properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've seen them on
ebay & at some flea markets . the motor has that long skinny
shaft with a little star washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans
out the grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I can find a
longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a bud's place , We were
thinkin on doing some automotive alternator windmills , but life
got in the way . I installed some new power in our local NAPA auto
parts for their new alternator tester? when he said gimme a bill I
told him I wanted the old tester , we were gearing up & then
.....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks have a couple of
the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had one a ways back
they may still ?
animal
On 7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via
groups.io wrote:
Mike,?
.
I have never seen one of these and
this unit clearly has a label identifying its'-self.
Is this your actual lathe or similar
to yours?
What does the motor do? Help with
balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter to clear the
grooves between the armature contacts?
Does it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice history lesson.
On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen
wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a yard sale .
I asked the guy how much for te armature lathe & he said "
is that what that is " . He gave it to me cause I was the only
guy out of 50-75 people that knew what it was . Have used it a
fair amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya can get
it cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper over teh
years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper . Here's some
scotch pad info that some of ya may find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500
grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320
grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith
wrote:
You don’t need to
turn it, you just need to clean it.
?
By turn I meant put
it in the chuck and spin it by hand, holding? the
sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s some good
pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda rough” is an
understatement.? Basically that carbon can build up
between the copper rails and cause a short, might be
your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.?
Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see
if there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to
fix, things like gouges & pitting.
?
What do you mean by
belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
From: [email protected]
<[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander via
groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2024 12:10 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] how
to.inspect.motor?
?
My other lathe is not running so I
cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've seen them on
ebay & at some flea markets . the motor has that long skinny
shaft with a little star washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans
out the grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I can find a
longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a bud's place , We were
thinkin on doing some automotive alternator windmills , but life
got in the way . I installed some new power in our local NAPA auto
parts for their new alternator tester? when he said gimme a bill I
told him I wanted the old tester , we were gearing up & then
.....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks have a couple of
the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had one a ways back
they may still ?
animal
On 7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Mike,?
.
I have never seen one of these and
this unit clearly has a label identifying its'-self.
Is this your actual lathe or similar
to yours?
What does the motor do? Help with
balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter to clear the
grooves between the armature contacts?
Does it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice history lesson.
On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen
wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a yard sale .
I asked the guy how much for te armature lathe & he said "
is that what that is " . He gave it to me cause I was the only
guy out of 50-75 people that knew what it was . Have used it a
fair amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya can get
it cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper over teh
years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper . Here's some
scotch pad info that some of ya may find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500
grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320
grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith
wrote:
You don’t need to
turn it, you just need to clean it.
?
By turn I meant put
it in the chuck and spin it by hand, holding? the
sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s some good
pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda rough” is an
understatement.? Basically that carbon can build up
between the copper rails and cause a short, might be
your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.?
Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see
if there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to
fix, things like gouges & pitting.
?
What do you mean by
belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My other lathe is not running so I
cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Mike,?
.
I have never seen one of these and this
unit clearly has a label identifying its'-self.
Is this your actual lathe or similar to
yours?
What does the motor do? Help with
balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter to clear the grooves
between the armature contacts?
Does it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice history lesson.
On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a yard sale . I
asked the guy how much for te armature lathe & he said " is
that what that is " . He gave it to me cause I was the only guy
out of 50-75 people that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya can get it
cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper over teh
years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper . Here's some scotch
pad info that some of ya may find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500
grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You
don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean it.
?
By
turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by hand,
holding? the sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s
some good pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda
rough” is an understatement.? Basically that carbon can
build up between the copper rails and cause a short, might
be your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.?
Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see if
there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to fix,
things like gouges & pitting.
?
What
do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My other lathe is not running so I
cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
??? that 1500 watt a bit over 2 HP is a awful lot of motor for
one of these l'll lathes .
??? animal
On 7/1/24 8:45 PM, Jon Rus via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Ralph,?
.
The belt is either easy or almost
impossible.
Measure the teeth, each 1 tooth + the
empty space, then 10 teeth + spaces and then divide by 10, to
improve your accuracy over measuring just 1 tooth.
Then mark the belt and count the
teeth.
.
There may even be a number on the
back of the belt
That number can be either correct or
a lie.
.
Compare your measurements to
information on the internet and see if it is a generic or china
only belt.
Tell us your findings and I'm sure we
can help.
.
If you upgrade your motor, you will
need a newer HD belt anyway.
The Custom Crafter knows all about
this and has misc parts all the way up to complete kits to make
this happen.
I bought some pulleys from him to
upgrade a table size 9" drill press to a BLDC motor so as to run
175-200rpm on a custom annular cutter, (800rpm motor with 4:1
reduction, 4x torque).
.
This is my only activity with him
other than wishing I could buy his 1500W kit for the 7x lathe.
.
What is your motor progress?
I could maybe send you one of my
brush motors I bought off of eBay,?
not free, but less than LMS, What is
your current motor claimed Wattage?
.
Good luck on your decisions.
.
John
On 7/1/2024 11:20 PM, Ralph
Hulslander wrote:
Jon, that is why I am "thinking" of using one of
the Consew motors I have.
I was shocked by the price of a new motor from Little
Machine Shop.
If it comes down to having to spend money I might just
buy a new mini lathe.
I need to know what the current belt is so I can look
for new pulleys.
There used to be a Duhguy here in the forum that does
repairs. I think he lived in Maine.
Getting my current mini lathe fixed is a possibility.
This lathe might be 50 years old.
Ralph,?
.
This is an excellent idea, but it is not
plug-n-play.?
You need to create a motor mount, and a matching
drive pulley as your original pulley will not fit.
You probably can not make it fit either.
There is a guy in Florida called "The Custom Crafter"
that has 500W, 1000W, and 2000W motors as well as all of
the hardware to make it work.
It is not cheap tho...
.
Lets just get this motor cleaned up before spending
any REAL money.
.
Go Godzilla Go!?
errrr Ralph!
On 7/1/2024 10:09 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
My other lathe is not running so
I cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Ralph,?
.
The belt is either easy or almost
impossible.
Measure the teeth, each 1 tooth + the
empty space, then 10 teeth + spaces and then divide by 10, to
improve your accuracy over measuring just 1 tooth.
Then mark the belt and count the teeth.
.
There may even be a number on the back
of the belt
That number can be either correct or a
lie.
.
Compare your measurements to
information on the internet and see if it is a generic or china
only belt.
Tell us your findings and I'm sure we
can help.
.
If you upgrade your motor, you will
need a newer HD belt anyway.
The Custom Crafter knows all about this
and has misc parts all the way up to complete kits to make this
happen.
I bought some pulleys from him to
upgrade a table size 9" drill press to a BLDC motor so as to run
175-200rpm on a custom annular cutter, (800rpm motor with 4:1
reduction, 4x torque).
.
This is my only activity with him other
than wishing I could buy his 1500W kit for the 7x lathe.
.
What is your motor progress?
I could maybe send you one of my brush
motors I bought off of eBay,?
not free, but less than LMS, What is
your current motor claimed Wattage?
.
Good luck on your decisions.
.
John
On 7/1/2024 11:20 PM, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Jon, that is why I am "thinking" of using one of
the Consew motors I have.
I was shocked by the price of a new motor from Little
Machine Shop.
If it comes down to having to spend money I might just buy
a new mini lathe.
I need to know what the current belt is so I can look for
new pulleys.
There used to be a Duhguy here in the forum that does
repairs. I think he lived in Maine.
Getting my current mini lathe fixed is a possibility.
This lathe might be 50 years old.
Ralph,?
.
This is an excellent idea, but it is not plug-n-play.?
You need to create a motor mount, and a matching drive
pulley as your original pulley will not fit.
You probably can not make it fit either.
There is a guy in Florida called "The Custom Crafter"
that has 500W, 1000W, and 2000W motors as well as all of
the hardware to make it work.
It is not cheap tho...
.
Lets just get this motor cleaned up before spending any
REAL money.
.
Go Godzilla Go!?
errrr Ralph!
On 7/1/2024 10:09 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
My other lathe is not running so I
cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a yard sale . I
asked the guy how much for te armature lathe & he said " is
that what that is " . He gave it to me cause I was the only guy
out of 50-75 people that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya can get it
cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper over teh years
, their a bit cleaner then sand paper . Here's some scotch pad
info that some of ya may find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You
don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean it.
?
By
turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by hand,
holding? the sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s
some good pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda
rough” is an understatement.? Basically that carbon can
build up between the copper rails and cause a short, might
be your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.?
Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see if
there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to fix,
things like gouges & pitting.
?
What
do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My other lathe is not running so I cannot
turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Jon, that is why I am "thinking" of using one of the Consew motors I have. I was shocked by the price of a new motor from Little Machine Shop.
If it comes down to having to spend money I might just buy a new mini lathe.
I need to know what the current belt is so I can look for new pulleys.
There used to be a Duhguy here in the forum that does repairs. I think he lived in Maine. Getting my current mini lathe fixed is a possibility.
This lathe might be 50 years old.
Ralph,?
.
This is an excellent idea, but it is
not plug-n-play.?
You need to create a motor mount, and a
matching drive pulley as your original pulley will not fit.
You probably can not make it fit
either.
There is a guy in Florida called "The
Custom Crafter" that has 500W, 1000W, and 2000W motors as well as
all of the hardware to make it work.
It is not cheap tho...
.
Lets just get this motor cleaned up
before spending any REAL money.
.
Go Godzilla Go!?
errrr Ralph!
On 7/1/2024 10:09 PM, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
My other lathe is not running so I cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Ralph,?
.
This is an excellent idea, but it is
not plug-n-play.?
You need to create a motor mount, and a
matching drive pulley as your original pulley will not fit.
You probably can not make it fit
either.
There is a guy in Florida called "The
Custom Crafter" that has 500W, 1000W, and 2000W motors as well as
all of the hardware to make it work.
It is not cheap tho...
.
Lets just get this motor cleaned up
before spending any REAL money.
.
Go Godzilla Go!?
errrr Ralph!
On 7/1/2024 10:09 PM, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
My other lathe is not running so I cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Ralph,
,
You should remove the motor endcap
nearest the brushed, then install the brushes as they were and see
what is going on with them.?
Things will be a little bit loose, but
you should see why the one brush is wearing unevenly.?
Try each brush in each hole, and even
turn the brushes 180 degrees, (like a drill, not a pizza) and see
if they fit better or worse in 1 attitude or the other.
Turn the main armature and see if the
brushed become dislodged, they should remain perfectly
perpendicular as you spin the armature.
Continue disassembly and clean all of
the carbon dust out of the interior and reassemble with? a drop of
oil on the bearings.
If the bearings have even the smallest
amount ow wear, the motor can fail to run.
The shaft can become out of center with
the magnetic field and lock up while power is applied and then
turn smooth again without power.
.
Good Luck
On 7/1/2024 5:23 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You really need to check if
that holder is bent or loose.? That
commutator shouldn’t be the that black.? Or any sort of
black really, it needs cleaning.
?
Doing
both isn’t too hard.? You need to pull the end cap off, just
take those 4 bolts out.? The cap will be on tight, you might
need to tap it off with a hammer.? Once you get that off the
armature should come out.? Would help if you take the pulley
off.? The bearing in the end cap often hinders things, just
slowly work at it.
?
Before
you do that put some marks on the case so you know how to
put it back together.
?
Just
check the brush holders for anything “odd”.? Loose, cracked,
bent, etc.? That brush shouldn’t be angled, and neither
should the holder.
?
Cleaning
the commutator is basically using fine sandpaper(600 grit or
better) ?to get back to the copper.? Use a solvent and brush
to get as much of the crud off as you can.? Put the armature
into the lathe, wrap a strip of sandpaper around the
commutator (like you’re not supposed to do) and spin it.?
Powering up the lathe would make it easier, but y’know.? If
you’ve got a drill stick it in there.
?
Go
easy, the copper is hardened, but it’s copper.? It won’t
take long.
?
It’s
possible the commutator is worn, but unlikely.? The fix is
you just simply turn it down in the lathe, but again. yeah
k’know.
?
Once?
that’s done find something to clean out the slots in the
commutator, a hard plastic tool or the like.? Don’t use a
knife etc.? There are mica insulators down in the slots,
again be gentle and don’t damage those.? You want to get all
the carbon & copper dust out.
?
Wipe
it down with the solvent, put it back together and see how
it runs.?
?
Tony
?
?
?
Here is a video viewing the commutator
and brush holder.
Attachments:
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Excellent examples of how to do, what
to see before and after, and when to stop!
go GO GO
Ralph!
On 7/1/2024 10:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You
don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean it.
?
By
turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by hand,
holding? the sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s
some good pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda
rough” is an understatement.? Basically that carbon can
build up between the copper rails and cause a short, might
be your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.?
Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see if
there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to fix,
things like gouges & pitting.
?
What
do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My other lathe is not running so I cannot
turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
You don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean it. ? By turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by hand, holding? the sandpaper in the other. ? Here’s some good pictures showing the general idea: , obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got. ? “kinda rough” is an understatement.? Basically that carbon can build up between the copper rails and cause a short, might be your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.? Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see if there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to fix, things like gouges & pitting. ? What do you mean by belt? ? Tony ? ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2024 12:10 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] how to.inspect.motor?? My other lathe is not running so I cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
My other lathe is not running so I cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
You really should use a non-conductive abrasive. There are special commutator cleaning stones available, lacking one of those, old fashioned flint sandpaper (extra fine) also works.
An X-Acto razor saw blade (without the handle) is ideal for under cutting the mica insulation between the commutator segments.
For general cleaning, I've had pretty good luck with the cheapest brake & parts cleaning aerosol cans I can find, usually a case of them from BJ's.
Roy
|
