开云体育

Sorry to hear about your back problems. I feel your pain; or rather my
pain feels a lot like yours! That is an interestion treadle assembly in
the picture. It is uncommon to see two treadles. I would hope that the
motorised conversion was done well enough to keep; I have seen a lot of
very poorly done motorisation conversions.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Last night riding buddy Ben and father-in-law Bill and myself
dissassembled and moved the Seneca Falls Mfg. Co. lathe I just purchased.
First we removed the added-on motor drive assembly. Then we unbolted the
stand from the cement basement floor. Finally we unbolted the lathe itself
from the stand. It's big and very heavy, probabaly a 12" X 24" at least,
but Ben and I were able to carry it up the stairs to my trailer.
Everything was going fine until I attempted to lift a large wooden box
filled with metal cut-offs. I bent down and got it off the floor with my
legs like you're supposed to, but then, snap, I felt my L5 disc pop again.
I injured this disc doing barbell squats many years ago, and it hasn't
popped like this since I last attempted a very heavy deadlift. After that,
with a sharp knife-like feeling in my back, I had to take it easy, for
sure.

We finally got everything on the trailer, jamming it full with boxes and
boxes of tools and parts, but when I got home I simply backed the trailer
into the garage and left it, it's sagging springs crying out for relief
but the searing pain in my back crying out louder.

Turns out the lathe has an interesting history. The last patent date
stamped on the frame is 1896, and there's a long axle across it that I'm
sure at one time held a large flywheel and two treadle pedals. The lathe
came from the Watervliet Arsenal in upstate NY. If you're a military
history buff you know this is where the huge 16" cannons for our big
battleships are made. These guns are so big that when they fire their
2,000 pound charge, the entire hundreds of tons weighing battleship moves
over about a foot. Based on the age of this lathe, I'm certain it made
some parts for our military munitions efforts in WWI and possibly as late
as WWII. Amazing.

With 7 motorcycles and 1 sidecar I'm hoping to learn enough basic
machining skills to perhaps make a part or two now and then, and do some
polishing, facing, etc. The History Channel had a special on machine tools
the other night, but I missed the lathe part, since the lathe is the king
of machine tools and it was on first.

If your thinking of getting into metalworking, it may be wise to consider
the popular 7" X 12" imported mini-lathes that are available from many
vendors. For one thing, lots of lathe work takes place right by the
headstock anyway, so you might not really need a big lathe like the one I
got. Second, the small ones only weigh about 90lbs complete, so you wont
have to break your back moving them.

No pictures yet, as my daugther has my digital camera at summer camp. But
here's some interesting info on Seneca Falls Mfg. Co. If you go to the
very bottom of this page, look at the drawing on the bottom right. That's
what my lathe looks like, except the flywheel and treadles have been
removed.



Bill and Ben, thanks for the backbreaking help, I know it wasn't easy.

Cranky Frankie
"The pain passes, but the beauty remains." Pierre Auguste Renoir



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you might also take a look at the homier mini-lathe for $299.99.

The Micromark is nice in that the crossslide and compound have 20tpi
screws giving it a true .050 per revolution of the handles.

It also has the tach and cam operated tailstock as std equipment.

but worth the $500.00+ pricetag .. I dunno

These features can be retrofit from

also .. check the 7x10 group .. lots of information there as well

Just my own views .. no doubt the micromark is a nice machine :)

Rgds

Will

i recently acquired both the mill and lathe from micromark. i settled
on the micromark machines after much research. for the lathe it came
down to the longer bed, inch units, spindle tach, motor mount, and
lever lock tail stock.

i have to say i am impressed. after getting all the gibs conditioned
and adjusted, and a good sharp tool ground, this lil' machine does a
great job. i cut some CR first to check tailstock alignment - it cut
just fine and the diameter difference was less than .002" - not bad
out of the box. the next thing i cut was drill rod to make clamping
blocks for the mill. i was wackin .040" per pass with no chatter and
a great surface finish. having the variable speed control is super
nice - i was able to adjust the spindle speed on the fly to get
optimal chip formation - curly and toasty brown (close the limit of
my HSS tool bit). i find plenty of torque above 100 rpm (still a bit
fast for some operations though). working tolerance for both machines
so far is less than .001" - no wonder people like them so much.

my first mods planned are variable speed leadscrew (using an old
power drill) and real saddle gibs.

and a blurb about the mill (i know there is a mini-mill group but
most of the postings there are spam)...i put the R8 conversion kit in
from LMS - the "make your own tools" (see LMS) trick didn't pan out -
i had to use a car jack between 2 concrete block walls as a makeshift
press - it worked fine. on to tramming the head - the x axis
alignment was easy but the y axis was out but .006". i tried to taper
the gib but gave up since the only method i had was sand paper. i
settled on shimming the base mounting bracket - i used 3 layers
of .001" thick aluminum foil. so far so good, but i'll have to check
it periodically for compression.

no regrets.

m

Here's some info you may find helpful:



Frank Hoose


--- Christian <christian02115@...> wrote:

Hey guys,

Newbie machinist here, reading some good books. I'm
looking to make
my own rc helicopter parts and have done some
looking around and have
pretty much settled on the Microlux 7x14 lathe. What
are the opinions
here of it? I need something I can lift and move
around. I'm also
interested in getting the mill attachment, and may
buy the Micromark
tabletop mill as well, any thoughts on that? Thanks!

Christian
www.christianzx.com



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I have quite a few brand new Rohm drill chucks available at roughly 50%
off list price:

Keyless chucks:
0-6MM J1 020089 @ $25
0-8MM J1 020093 @ $25
0-10MM J2 020097 @ $32

Ball bearing chucks:
1/32-1/2 J3 215000 @ $45 - last one!
3/16-3/4 J4 215002 @ $70
3/16-1 1/32 J5 215003 @ $105

Standard Key-type chucks:
1/64-5/32 J0 666562 @ $14
1/64-1/4 J1 666537 @ $14
1/32-3/8 J1 666539 @ $15
1/32-3/8 J2 666567 @ $16
1/32-3/8 J33 666568 @ $16
1/16-1/2 J2 666571 @ $18 - last one!
1/16-1/2 J6 666573 @ $18

I have arbors in straight shank in 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1" for almost all
chucks. And MT1, 2, 3, 4 for most. (No, I do not have any MT1 or MT2
arbors for the 1" & 3/4" ball bearing chucks - this seems to be a very
popular question)

--C.S.

Greeting John, you may wish to check eBay for some of the inserts.
I've been able to find a fairly large selection of inserts on there
and been successful in bidding on some of them with a net cost of .05
each. Check around for which inserts might be interchangable with
your bar and keep an eye on eBay, you might get lucky! Usually you
can do a search for "Carbide inserts" or "boring bars", etc and it'll
turn up a good list. Some other folks to check with would be JTS
Machinery (800-321-3566, or ) as they have a
pretty decent selection of inserts and the like.

Ed
"Expiring minds want to know!"

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which happened to include

an

Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32" triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up the included
insert and found that it produces a much better finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if so, where?

Carbide tip tools (regular tools and boring bars)don't produce a

good

finish for me. They also seem to develop tiny chips on the cutting
point fairly quickly (which may be why the finish is poor) and I've
also had larger chips a couple of times. I've read that carbide
works best when taking heavy cuts and that light cuts (which is my
normal use) don't work as well because the thin chip applies force
close to the edge. I've also had poor results when re-sharpening
carbide -- the edge seems more fragile afterwards and rapidly
develops chips while turning mild steel; the finish is so poor that

I

try not to use carbide on aluminum.

Based on the above, I'm shifting to cobalt steel bits but would be
interested to find out if there is some error I'm making in the way

I

use carbide tools or if others run into the same problem using them
on minilathes?

John

The micro-lux 7X14 is an excellent choice especially now since they have
lowered the price. I am one of the early owners and consider it the best
mini-lathe of all.

Hey guys,

Newbie machinist here, reading some good books. I'm looking to make
my own rc helicopter parts and have done some looking around and have
pretty much settled on the Microlux 7x14 lathe. What are the opinions
here of it? I need something I can lift and move around. I'm also
interested in getting the mill attachment, and may buy the Micromark
tabletop mill as well, any thoughts on that? Thanks!

Christian
www.christianzx.com

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

Mike,
I got the 5 inch chuck from Enco for my 7 x10, it's about

$60 and

I have never put the factory three inch on back on.

Jerry

At 04:52 PM 7/25/2003, you wrote:

i have 7 x 12 lathe similar to the homeir. I need a chuck with

jaws

slightly larger than the standard chuck supplied. Can you just get
bigger jaws?? Who is the best (least expensive) source for a

larger

chuck if that is the way to go? How do I make sure it will fit my
lathe??
thanks
mike aita

did you need a backing plate for this

thanks
mike

In the same vein I have a tool system made by the J.D.G. Tool Company of
Brooklyn N.Y. Rather small, it was sold by Edelstaal for their line of
laths. The bit has a "W" cross section with a variety of holders. Can
anyone provide information on this system?

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Hi Richard,

Thanks for the info. I couldn't find the inserts on the Everede site
and thought perhaps they were discontinued. Didn't find them at MSC
but Travers has them for $1.75 or $4.50 for an insert to do
threading. Now I need to figure out the part number for my bar so I
can order the right insert.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which happened to include

an

Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32" triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up the included
insert and found that it produces a much better finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if so, where?

Wow! What a coincidence! The Aug/Sept Machinist's Workshop has

an

article on building your own boring bar to use the Everede inserts.

The author says that MSC (and others) sell the inserts. He thinks
that "between two and three dollars each" is expensive but they last
a long time.

I haven't looked them up in "The Big Book" yet, but will try first
in the boring bar section. (Does MSC list manufacturers in the

index?

I know KBC does...)

Hope that helps,
RA

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which happened to include an
Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32" triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up the included
insert and found that it produces a much better finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if so, where?

Wow! What a coincidence! The Aug/Sept Machinist's Workshop has an
article on building your own boring bar to use the Everede inserts.

The author says that MSC (and others) sell the inserts. He thinks
that "between two and three dollars each" is expensive but they last
a long time.

I haven't looked them up in "The Big Book" yet, but will try first
in the boring bar section. (Does MSC list manufacturers in the index?
I know KBC does...)

Hope that helps,
RA

You may find this information helpful:



Frank Hoose


--- Jerry Smith <jfsmith@...> wrote:

Mike,
I got the 5 inch chuck from Enco for my 7
x10, it's about $60 and
I have never put the factory three inch on back on.

Jerry

At 04:52 PM 7/25/2003, you wrote:

i have 7 x 12 lathe similar to the homeir. I need

a chuck with jaws

slightly larger than the standard chuck supplied.

Can you just get

bigger jaws?? Who is the best (least expensive)

source for a larger

chuck if that is the way to go? How do I make sure

it will fit my

lathe??
thanks
mike aita

[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]


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I just examined a 4" chuck and adaptor plate from Little Machine Shop. A
friend got it for his early 6" Atlas with the 1"x 10 TPI spindle. Very
nice hardware.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Another option is the 4" chuck from Whole Sale Tool,
<
Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1902-0003&Category_Code=>
To mount it, you'll need to either make or buy a mounting plate
<
ProductID=1774>

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...> wrote:

i have 7 x 12 lathe similar to the homeir. I need a chuck with

jaws

slightly larger than the standard chuck supplied. Can you just get
bigger jaws?? Who is the best (least expensive) source for a

larger

chuck if that is the way to go? How do I make sure it will fit my
lathe??
thanks
mike aita

Mike,
I got the 5 inch chuck from Enco for my 7 x10, it's about $60 and
I have never put the factory three inch on back on.

Jerry

i have 7 x 12 lathe similar to the homeir. I need a chuck with jaws
slightly larger than the standard chuck supplied. Can you just get
bigger jaws?? Who is the best (least expensive) source for a larger
chuck if that is the way to go? How do I make sure it will fit my
lathe??
thanks
mike aita

i have an engineering book for 1898 but as its british your seneca is not
mentioned. entertaining read though!!


DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
www.smartgroups.com/groups/fliers
www.smartgroups.com/groups/pre78bmw

Start cranking Frank! Just remember that editors exist to make writers
do what they don't want to do!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"