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Hi Richard,

Thanks for the info. I couldn't find the inserts on the Everede site
and thought perhaps they were discontinued. Didn't find them at MSC
but Travers has them for $1.75 or $4.50 for an insert to do
threading. Now I need to figure out the part number for my bar so I
can order the right insert.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which happened to include

an

Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32" triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up the included
insert and found that it produces a much better finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if so, where?

Wow! What a coincidence! The Aug/Sept Machinist's Workshop has

an

article on building your own boring bar to use the Everede inserts.

The author says that MSC (and others) sell the inserts. He thinks
that "between two and three dollars each" is expensive but they last
a long time.

I haven't looked them up in "The Big Book" yet, but will try first
in the boring bar section. (Does MSC list manufacturers in the

index?

I know KBC does...)

Hope that helps,
RA

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which happened to include an
Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32" triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up the included
insert and found that it produces a much better finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if so, where?

Wow! What a coincidence! The Aug/Sept Machinist's Workshop has an
article on building your own boring bar to use the Everede inserts.

The author says that MSC (and others) sell the inserts. He thinks
that "between two and three dollars each" is expensive but they last
a long time.

I haven't looked them up in "The Big Book" yet, but will try first
in the boring bar section. (Does MSC list manufacturers in the index?
I know KBC does...)

Hope that helps,
RA

You may find this information helpful:



Frank Hoose


--- Jerry Smith <jfsmith@...> wrote:

Mike,
I got the 5 inch chuck from Enco for my 7
x10, it's about $60 and
I have never put the factory three inch on back on.

Jerry

At 04:52 PM 7/25/2003, you wrote:

i have 7 x 12 lathe similar to the homeir. I need

a chuck with jaws

slightly larger than the standard chuck supplied.

Can you just get

bigger jaws?? Who is the best (least expensive)

source for a larger

chuck if that is the way to go? How do I make sure

it will fit my

lathe??
thanks
mike aita

[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]


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I just examined a 4" chuck and adaptor plate from Little Machine Shop. A
friend got it for his early 6" Atlas with the 1"x 10 TPI spindle. Very
nice hardware.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Another option is the 4" chuck from Whole Sale Tool,
<
Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1902-0003&Category_Code=>
To mount it, you'll need to either make or buy a mounting plate
<
ProductID=1774>

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...> wrote:

i have 7 x 12 lathe similar to the homeir. I need a chuck with

jaws

slightly larger than the standard chuck supplied. Can you just get
bigger jaws?? Who is the best (least expensive) source for a

larger

chuck if that is the way to go? How do I make sure it will fit my
lathe??
thanks
mike aita

Mike,
I got the 5 inch chuck from Enco for my 7 x10, it's about $60 and
I have never put the factory three inch on back on.

Jerry

i have 7 x 12 lathe similar to the homeir. I need a chuck with jaws
slightly larger than the standard chuck supplied. Can you just get
bigger jaws?? Who is the best (least expensive) source for a larger
chuck if that is the way to go? How do I make sure it will fit my
lathe??
thanks
mike aita

i have an engineering book for 1898 but as its british your seneca is not
mentioned. entertaining read though!!


DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
www.smartgroups.com/groups/fliers
www.smartgroups.com/groups/pre78bmw

Start cranking Frank! Just remember that editors exist to make writers
do what they don't want to do!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

--- William A Williams <bwmsbldr@...> wrote:

Frank, it appears that you got yourself a classic old treadle lath for

your $200!

Oh my goodness. Now that you mention it, this makes sense, because it sits
on a stand that looks like and old sewing machine stand. That's probably
where the treadlese were before the guy coverted it to the washing machine
engine.

Just remember that it was designed for the 1/10th horsepower
that a person could deliver and proceed accordingly.

That's something, because the thing must weigh 200 - 300 pounds, and it's
all big and sturdy.

The accessories could be of considerable interest! If writing appeals to

consider an illustrated article in one of the hobby magazines!

Thanks Bill, it's getting interesting:)

Cranky Frankie

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I was unclear about the triangular inserts for the Everede boring
bar; they are like little tool bits, about 3/8 long with a triangular
cross section, 3/32 across the flats, with one point of the triangle
truncated slightly. Strange little guys, nothing like the typical
carbide triangular inserts. Everede has a site but I couldn't find
the inserts there; apparently, they began making these tool steel
inserts in the 1930's.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., George Kaplan <kgmk99@y...>
wrote:

the The Little Machine Shop for the inserts

GK
--- John <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which
happened to include an
Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32"
triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up
the included
insert and found that it produces a much better
finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if
so, where?

Carbide tip tools (regular tools and boring
bars)don't produce a good
finish for me. They also seem to develop tiny chips
on the cutting
point fairly quickly (which may be why the finish is
poor) and I've
also had larger chips a couple of times. I've read
that carbide
works best when taking heavy cuts and that light
cuts (which is my
normal use) don't work as well because the thin chip
applies force
close to the edge. I've also had poor results when
re-sharpening
carbide -- the edge seems more fragile afterwards
and rapidly
develops chips while turning mild steel; the finish
is so poor that I
try not to use carbide on aluminum.

Based on the above, I'm shifting to cobalt steel
bits but would be
interested to find out if there is some error I'm
making in the way I
use carbide tools or if others run into the same
problem using them
on minilathes?

John

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software

Frank, it appears that you got yourself a classic old treadle lath for
your $200! Just remember that it was designed for the 1/10th horsepower
that a person could deliver and proceed accordingly. The accessories
could be of considerable interest! If writing appeals to consider an
illustrated article in one of the hobby magazines!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Hi Frank;

The lathe you describe was produced not to far from where I grew up. Maybe as much as 100 years before I was born. It sounds like you have a very good example of this lathe even though it is not in original condition. Some of these lathes where originally threadeled powered, sound like you may have one of those.

It would be interesting to determine if this lathe can be restored. I would look closely at all those parts you have to see how complete the lathe is. If enough of it exists I would suggest that you turn this machine into a restoration project. If you spend sometime surfing the internet you should be able to find a couple of web sites devoted to Seneca Falls machines.

As far as the company it self goes I'm not sure if it is around any more. A couple of years ago they where really struggling. Apparently they never made the transition to CNC and was left stuck in the world of tracer lathes. I'm sure if there was a turn around at the company someone will pipe up, as that would be good news.

Thanks
Dave


Frank Palmeri wrote:

I was waiting for the next Homier tent sale, to finally buy the 7 x 12,
when I came across a deal on an antique lathe that I couldn't pass up.
It's an old Seneca Falls Mfg. Co. metal lathe, and it'll be my first
one. It appears to be a 12" X 24", and I'll bet it weighs the better side
of 300lbs. It only cost me $200 and comes with boxes and boxes of
accessories and tooling. It's really, really old, possibly from the 1800s.
It was not originally motorized, but the machinist who owned it rigged up
a
movable, 4 pulley drive system with a washing machine motor to drive it.
It appears to be in good shape, though it has had lots of use. It has a
finely made metal stand with thin legs, kind of like you'd see on an old
sewing machine. This will be my first lathe to try and learn on. Kind of
like learning to drive in a 1972 4 door Cadillac, I know, but I couldn't
pass up a deal like this. I know many guys have more than one lathe
anyway, so if this bad boy proves to be too intimidating I'll probably get
the Homier sometime down the road as well. For example, there doesn't
appear to be any scales on the handscrews, to let you know how much you
are advancing them.

Anyway, it's big, black and strong. Now I just have to figure out how to
get it home!

Cranky Frankie



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software

the The Little Machine Shop for the inserts

GK
--- John <moran03@...> wrote:

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which
happened to include an
Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32"
triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up
the included
insert and found that it produces a much better
finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if
so, where?

Carbide tip tools (regular tools and boring
bars)don't produce a good
finish for me. They also seem to develop tiny chips
on the cutting
point fairly quickly (which may be why the finish is
poor) and I've
also had larger chips a couple of times. I've read
that carbide
works best when taking heavy cuts and that light
cuts (which is my
normal use) don't work as well because the thin chip
applies force
close to the edge. I've also had poor results when
re-sharpening
carbide -- the edge seems more fragile afterwards
and rapidly
develops chips while turning mild steel; the finish
is so poor that I
try not to use carbide on aluminum.

Based on the above, I'm shifting to cobalt steel
bits but would be
interested to find out if there is some error I'm
making in the way I
use carbide tools or if others run into the same
problem using them
on minilathes?

John

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software

Diamond honing after grinding seems to help on the surface finish.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which happened to include an
Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32" triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up the included
insert and found that it produces a much better finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if so, where?

Carbide tip tools (regular tools and boring bars)don't produce a good
finish for me. They also seem to develop tiny chips on the cutting
point fairly quickly (which may be why the finish is poor) and I've
also had larger chips a couple of times. I've read that carbide
works best when taking heavy cuts and that light cuts (which is my
normal use) don't work as well because the thin chip applies force
close to the edge. I've also had poor results when re-sharpening
carbide -- the edge seems more fragile afterwards and rapidly
develops chips while turning mild steel; the finish is so poor that I
try not to use carbide on aluminum.

Based on the above, I'm shifting to cobalt steel bits but would be
interested to find out if there is some error I'm making in the way I
use carbide tools or if others run into the same problem using them
on minilathes?

John

"... If it does what you want it to do, it's the right machine.

There's always some future project that requires a larger lathe with more
sophisticated capabilities <g>"

Roy

**

The trouble is the future is always now! I got rid of the huge monster
because I never needed anything that big and the 7x12 was going to do
everything I needed now. Once it had gone, I needed the big one, (:o|/
especially for milling. So a new Mill is on the cards, I am just waiting
until I can get the conversation round so that it is my wife who suggests
it (:o)

Cheers,
captkenn
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
触&濒迟;触):辞)=触&驳迟;抖抖触..触.................
&#92; &#92;''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;

From: "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: don"t want to start trouble ...
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 04:29:05 -0000

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If it does what you want it to do, it's the right machine.
There's always some future project that requires a larger lathe with
more sophisticated capabilities <g>

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "boykin275" <jbbaird@s...>
wrote:

...but I have to ask ...

I just purchased a sherline lathe and rigged it for CNC. I am not

a

machinist but do have one small, simple part that must be made
repeatedly. Did I make a mistake? How does the sherline compare

to

the mini-lathes?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...> wrote:

I use Delta Cad & have been very happy with it.

It seems there are at least a few of us who enjoy the ease of using
DeltaCad. I have been using version 5, the newest I think, for about
one year. I also have Autosketch and need to refer to the user guide
for help in almost everything I want to do. It is a nice drawing
program but unless one works with it on a daily basis, it is
complicated.

To get back on track though, my DeltaCad quit suddenly and locks up
the screen requiring the "three finger salute" to get back in
business. All else on the computer, including Autosketch worked as
always. My first thought was to reinstall the CD for DeltaCad
thinking it would overwrite the program already installed. No
improvement. After talking to myself and others for a few days I
uninstalled the DeltaCad Program and then reinstalled it and all is
fine.

If yours should quit someday maybe this will avoid some fretting.

Richard