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Date
Re: Delrin

V Sathe
 

I am a newbie to the group. I know that many plastics
become brittle at (very) low temperatures. Some of
them need to be treated with liquid nitrogen to make
them brittle.

One experiment someone can try is to keep the piece in
a freezer for a couple of hours and then try to
machine it.

Liquid nitrogen is dangerous in some ways (don't try
to dip your body parts in it - they will break off
too) but something else that can be sprayed to cool
the work piece (The newer Freon?) may do the job.
Don't know how it will affect the cutting tool though.

I don't have a lathe yet. I joined the group to hang
around & read various discussions to get a feel of
what I should buy. May be in a few months ...

Chip_User
----------------------------------------------
--- Richard Albers <rralbers@...> wrote:
Snipped

We just live with it. I don't think it is
possible to break such
a soft material into smaller chips. It *may* be
possible to grab the
string with pliers and break it (or just hold it
away from the cut),
but I do not recommend this for most HSMs - it would
be too easy to
get into trouble. Like watching the chip,and
forgetting to stop the
cut before the bit hits the chuck (lots of us have
done that :-o).
Snipped

__________________________________
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Re: question about the chuck

 

IMHO, the proper method is to use the chuck key in a key hole.
Any slight chance of distorting the chuck body is reduced by applying
the force against the large pinion bearing surface instead of against
the relatively skinny slots of the jaw-locating face.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim E." <jim0000@a...> wrote:
Proper method is what you're doing, minus the rag.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

lecompte126 wrote:

Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today. I
tried
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from
turning
to unscrew the 3 screws. What I did is open up the chuck and
wrap a
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the
right
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws. So my question is
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin
Re: question about the chuck

Jim E.
 

Proper method is what you're doing, minus the rag.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

lecompte126 wrote:


Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today. I tried
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning
to unscrew the 3 screws. What I did is open up the chuck and wrap a
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the right
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws. So my question is
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin
Re: question about the chuck

William A Williams
 

Kelvin; if it (1) getting the screws out, (2) not hurting the lath, (3)
not hurting you then it is probably OK!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"
Re: question about the chuck

Ed Paradis
 

Kelvin, The normal method most folks use is to use either the chuck
key itself, or what I made for mine. I made a separate hand key for
the various chucks that I use on mine. In the Photos section, look
under "Ed's stuff" and you'll see a photo of what I use. The
construction of them is pretty easy, using some square stock and file
handles. These help you to get a decent purchase on the chuck when
tightening the nuts, plus make a handy tool for setting up your
work. Just size the square stock for the appropriate square hole on
your particular chuck. On both of them, the square stock is bedded
about the same distance inside as what is showing on the outside. I
drilled a round hole slightly smaller than the square stock and then
whackalated the thing together. Works great...

Ed

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lecompte126"
<lecompte126@h...> wrote:
Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today. I
tried
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from
turning
to unscrew the 3 screws. What I did is open up the chuck and wrap
a
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the
right
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws. So my question is
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin
Re: question about the chuck

 

Put the chuck key in one of the holes; use it to keep the chuck
from turning.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lecompte126"
<lecompte126@h...> wrote:
Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today. I
tried
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from
turning
to unscrew the 3 screws. What I did is open up the chuck and wrap
a
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the
right
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws. So my question is
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin
Re: question about the chuck

Jerry Smith
 

Kevil,
First of all removing a chuck, do it carefully, there 3 or 4
screws on the back of the chuck. What I did on my little lathe was put a 5
inch chuck on it, I used the back plate that HF sells and mounted the
chuck. Things got much easier to do and I do recommend doing this enhancement.

Here is the URL on how to do it and where to get stuff from:


Jerry

At 07:15 PM 6/16/2003, you wrote:
Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today. I tried
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning
to unscrew the 3 screws. What I did is open up the chuck and wrap a
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the right
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws. So my question is
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin
question about the chuck

lecompte126
 

Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today. I tried
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning
to unscrew the 3 screws. What I did is open up the chuck and wrap a
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the right
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws. So my question is
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin
Re: newbie

H & M
 

Thanks a bunch Ed, I am buying a Homier...

----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Paradis
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 7:41 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: newbie


Greetings Mr. Hawk, if you don't already know, both machines are made
in the same factory by Sieg. The main difference is with the
accessories that are included with the Grizzly. The Grizzly includes
the faceplate, steady rest, follow rest (if I remember correctly),
which if purchased from HF, would not equal the price difference
between the Homier and the Grizzly. I opted to get the Homier (total
was about $360 with shipping) and I used the difference to get the
other goodies from HF. The parts are fully interchangeable on both
machines (actually all of the Sieg machines, such as the HF 7x10,
Enco 7x10, Northern Tool 7x10, Grizzly 7x12, etc.) Homier is reputed
to have an excellent reputation with handling any of the warranty
issues, I can't speak to how Grizzly handles theirs....

Ed
"Expiring minds want to know..."

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lifes_jeep" <swsmt@a...> wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I am ready to purchase a 7x12 mini lathe and see a whoppin price
> difference between grizzly and homier. I know the grizzly comes
with
> 2 extra tools (steady rest and 6 1/4" faceplate). Are there any
> differences in the actual parts of the machines? are some parts
more
> rugged on the grizzly (plasctic on homeier? vs. metal on grizzly?)
>
> $299 sure sounds like a real good buy. I wanna get a little lathe
and
> then build an upscaled gingery (with around 40" workspace between
> centers)
>
> Choice is important to me since I live only half hour drive from
> grizzly tools and get get parts real easy.
>
> -Hawk-


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Re: Delrin

Richard Albers
 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ron DeBlock" <rdeblock@a...>
wrote:
<Snip>
The Delrin is wonderful material to machine, except for one
annoyance: the
chip comes off as a single, long string. It becomes a big, soft,
fuzzy mess
that gets tangled up on the work, the tooling, the live center, the
chuck,
etc. It reminds me of poodle fur. We had to stop often to clean
off the
fuzz. It's especially annoying when parting off.

Is there anyway to get the chip to break into pieces? Or is it
something we
have to live with?
We just live with it. I don't think it is possible to break such
a soft material into smaller chips. It *may* be possible to grab the
string with pliers and break it (or just hold it away from the cut),
but I do not recommend this for most HSMs - it would be too easy to
get into trouble. Like watching the chip,and forgetting to stop the
cut before the bit hits the chuck (lots of us have done that :-o).

BTW, projects like this are a good way to justify the purchase of
machine
tools - "But, dear, it's for the children!"
Sounds like that one should fly!

RA
Re: No reverse / What to do!

Richard Albers
 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kgmk99" <kgmk99@y...> wrote:
I just (2 days ago) received my new (Homier)Speedway 7 x 12
mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. It worked the
1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of the forward speed
in high and low gear. Now reverse does not work at all. Is
this a known problem with the Speedways? What should I do
about this? The forword works great!
You already have answers for the "no reverse" problem.

FYI, these lathes *all* run slower in reverse than forward. It is
just another "feature". It appears to actually be intentional, since
there is a resistor added to the circuitry only in reverse.
Probably to protect us (or our lathes) from ourselves... It is not
mentioned in the user's manual, AFAIK.

Has anyone defeated this resistor? If so, what were the results?

RA
Re: QCTP question

 

There are other references for tool setting:
The chuck face is perpendicular to the work.
The tailstock ram is parallel to the work.
Setting a tool relative to the chuck is easier with a parallel;
either a rigid 6" rule or a center (fishtail) gauge is handy. Also,
the ends of decent rules and the tips of the center gauge are ground
square to the their bodies; either makes a convenient mini-square
that's accurate enough for tool setting.
FWIW, 1/4" pipe is ideal for making 1/2" to 3/8" adaptors: 0.54"
OD, 0.36"ID (That's for common, schedule 40 pipe; the less common
versions have different IDs.)

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
I noticed the toolpost being discussed is round so it looks like
you
set the angle each time you change tools. I added the Phase II
toolpost and find setting the angle awkward when it needs to be
accurately perpendicular to use the parting tool. The best I've
come
up with is to chuck a rod and use my machinist square to get the
toolpost angle set before chucking the actual part. I don't have a
good way to set the angle accurately with a small part already in
the
chuck (another symptom of newbyitis, probably). There are times
when
it would be nice to change the angle slightly (to reduce chatter)
while a part is in the chuck but I can't do this if I intend to
eventually use the parting tool.

Apparently, you do have a way to set the angle with a part in the
chuck. Perhaps you could describe how to do this, assuming it would
work with other toolposts.

Another part of this thread concerned the size of the hole in the
Phase II boring bar holder being too large. Mine had the same
thing
(it is meant for bars with larger shanks because the toolpost is
meant for larger lathes) so I made a split sleeve from aluminum to
accept my set of inexpensive brazed carbide boring bars with 3/8
shanks. This works fine; I leave the sleeve in the boring bar when
changing bars. I also made a second sleeve to accommodate a couple
of bars I have with larger shanks so the large bore adds
capability.

The Phase II toolpost/toolholders set is frequently on sale at Enco
for $89. It is a bit large for the minilathe and I wound up
increasing the cross slide travel to accommodate it, see:



While it is the most expensive addition I've made to my minilathe,
the Phase II is well made and works well, especially once the lathe
is set up for it.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson"
<sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
Hi Den,
Don't give me the credit for designing this project. I found it
on
the site
below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on this
list (Mert
? Jim ?).

I am more than pleased with it. The only thing I would have done
differently
is to make the post itself from steel as indicated on the web
page.
I used
LG4 gunmetal mainly because it was the only metal I had handy in
the size
required. It works fine but scratches rather easily. If you don't
have a
bandsaw or powered hacksaw, now is the time to buy one, cutting
1"
chunks of
2"x2" Al or steel is going to give you *big* shoulders :-) I cut
my
first
three by hand until I got the bandsaw. Made loads since. I also
added a
locknut to the height adjusting screw for obvious reasons.

After I had used it for a while, I got fed up with having to
remove
the top
tool post locking nut just to change holders so I made a new one.
It's just
a piece of 1" round bar drilled and tapped M10 (check yours) with
a
hole in
the side for a tommy bar

One thing I'm going to try next time I make a holder is, after
boring the
centre hole, to cut a recess in the bottom to just clear the
bottom
lip of
the post. This will allow the holder to sit lower down and so
enable me to
use slightly larger tools if needed.

With regard to roughing cuts, with this tool post on, the
compound
will move
before the tool post does, it's that solid!

Hope this helps,

Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: denyhstk [mailto:nheng@a...]
Sent: 07 June 2003 17:41
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: QCTP question


Steve:

I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found
the
time for it ... until now.

I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II. The
hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality
metric hex wrench. Also, the boring bar holder is bored much
too
large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar.

The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or
maybe
even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area
of
the cylinder. How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or
parting cuts ?

Thanks for sharing your project !

Den

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson"
<sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
> If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've
just
made the
> one at . Works a treat.
>
> Steve
>
> > Hi:
> >
> > I've just joined the list and I have found many comments
touting
> the benefits of
> > a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget,
though, I
was
> wondering
> > if the model sold by Harbor Freight
> (
> > Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has
anyone
> tried the
> > set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great
attacments
> and
> > tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are
other
tools
> I need, and
> > money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be
really
> appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jason Swan
Re: newbie

Ed Paradis
 

Greetings Mr. Hawk, if you don't already know, both machines are made
in the same factory by Sieg. The main difference is with the
accessories that are included with the Grizzly. The Grizzly includes
the faceplate, steady rest, follow rest (if I remember correctly),
which if purchased from HF, would not equal the price difference
between the Homier and the Grizzly. I opted to get the Homier (total
was about $360 with shipping) and I used the difference to get the
other goodies from HF. The parts are fully interchangeable on both
machines (actually all of the Sieg machines, such as the HF 7x10,
Enco 7x10, Northern Tool 7x10, Grizzly 7x12, etc.) Homier is reputed
to have an excellent reputation with handling any of the warranty
issues, I can't speak to how Grizzly handles theirs....

Ed
"Expiring minds want to know..."

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lifes_jeep" <swsmt@a...> wrote:
Hi folks,

I am ready to purchase a 7x12 mini lathe and see a whoppin price
difference between grizzly and homier. I know the grizzly comes
with
2 extra tools (steady rest and 6 1/4" faceplate). Are there any
differences in the actual parts of the machines? are some parts
more
rugged on the grizzly (plasctic on homeier? vs. metal on grizzly?)

$299 sure sounds like a real good buy. I wanna get a little lathe
and
then build an upscaled gingery (with around 40" workspace between
centers)

Choice is important to me since I live only half hour drive from
grizzly tools and get get parts real easy.

-Hawk-
Re: newbie

 

-HAWK-
I bought a Grizzly myself and have been very
happy with it. There is alot of packing grease to remove! If you have
a bent chip tray they will replace it no questions asked at least
they did with me. I have noticed alot of people that have Homier,
speedway seem to have alot of electrical problems were I have not
seen many Grizzly lathes with this problem. I know Grizzly has a
variable speed control. Getting a face plate,dead center and steady
rest with change gears oil bottle allen wrenches is nice. I
personally would give you advice to buy carbide tipped toolsteel from
ENCO before you learn to grind toolsteel. You learn how all the
shapes work and understand what they are for before you grind plus
you can work metal right away. I also bought a drill chuck and a
4inch chuck. I bought alot of toolsteel carbide tipped and T-15
toolsteel that I need to grind to shape. Most that I purchased came
from I use castrol GTX oil in the
oil bottle. I use TapMagic for cutting fluid. I would give you some
advice to purchase Part Number: 1362 from Little Machine Shop.
This part will allow you to change gears for thread cutting. Some
people break the 80T gear trying to get the bushing out of the gear.
You'll be able to change gears faster also. Good Luck!

Anthony


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lifes_jeep" <swsmt@a...> wrote:
Hi folks,

I am ready to purchase a 7x12 mini lathe and see a whoppin price
difference between grizzly and homier. I know the grizzly comes
with
2 extra tools (steady rest and 6 1/4" faceplate). Are there any
differences in the actual parts of the machines? are some parts
more
rugged on the grizzly (plasctic on homeier? vs. metal on grizzly?)

$299 sure sounds like a real good buy. I wanna get a little lathe
and
then build an upscaled gingery (with around 40" workspace between
centers)

Choice is important to me since I live only half hour drive from
grizzly tools and get get parts real easy.

-Hawk-
Re: QCTP question

John
 

I noticed the toolpost being discussed is round so it looks like you
set the angle each time you change tools. I added the Phase II
toolpost and find setting the angle awkward when it needs to be
accurately perpendicular to use the parting tool. The best I've come
up with is to chuck a rod and use my machinist square to get the
toolpost angle set before chucking the actual part. I don't have a
good way to set the angle accurately with a small part already in the
chuck (another symptom of newbyitis, probably). There are times when
it would be nice to change the angle slightly (to reduce chatter)
while a part is in the chuck but I can't do this if I intend to
eventually use the parting tool.

Apparently, you do have a way to set the angle with a part in the
chuck. Perhaps you could describe how to do this, assuming it would
work with other toolposts.

Another part of this thread concerned the size of the hole in the
Phase II boring bar holder being too large. Mine had the same thing
(it is meant for bars with larger shanks because the toolpost is
meant for larger lathes) so I made a split sleeve from aluminum to
accept my set of inexpensive brazed carbide boring bars with 3/8
shanks. This works fine; I leave the sleeve in the boring bar when
changing bars. I also made a second sleeve to accommodate a couple
of bars I have with larger shanks so the large bore adds capability.

The Phase II toolpost/toolholders set is frequently on sale at Enco
for $89. It is a bit large for the minilathe and I wound up
increasing the cross slide travel to accommodate it, see:



While it is the most expensive addition I've made to my minilathe,
the Phase II is well made and works well, especially once the lathe
is set up for it.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson"
<sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
Hi Den,
Don't give me the credit for designing this project. I found it on
the site
below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on this
list (Mert
? Jim ?).

I am more than pleased with it. The only thing I would have done
differently
is to make the post itself from steel as indicated on the web page.
I used
LG4 gunmetal mainly because it was the only metal I had handy in
the size
required. It works fine but scratches rather easily. If you don't
have a
bandsaw or powered hacksaw, now is the time to buy one, cutting 1"
chunks of
2"x2" Al or steel is going to give you *big* shoulders :-) I cut my
first
three by hand until I got the bandsaw. Made loads since. I also
added a
locknut to the height adjusting screw for obvious reasons.

After I had used it for a while, I got fed up with having to remove
the top
tool post locking nut just to change holders so I made a new one.
It's just
a piece of 1" round bar drilled and tapped M10 (check yours) with a
hole in
the side for a tommy bar

One thing I'm going to try next time I make a holder is, after
boring the
centre hole, to cut a recess in the bottom to just clear the bottom
lip of
the post. This will allow the holder to sit lower down and so
enable me to
use slightly larger tools if needed.

With regard to roughing cuts, with this tool post on, the compound
will move
before the tool post does, it's that solid!

Hope this helps,

Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: denyhstk [mailto:nheng@a...]
Sent: 07 June 2003 17:41
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: QCTP question


Steve:

I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the
time for it ... until now.

I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II. The
hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality
metric hex wrench. Also, the boring bar holder is bored much too
large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar.

The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or
maybe
even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area of
the cylinder. How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or
parting cuts ?

Thanks for sharing your project !

Den

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson"
<sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
> If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've just
made the
> one at . Works a treat.
>
> Steve
>
> > Hi:
> >
> > I've just joined the list and I have found many comments
touting
> the benefits of
> > a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget,
though, I
was
> wondering
> > if the model sold by Harbor Freight
> (
> > Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has
anyone
> tried the
> > set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great
attacments
> and
> > tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are
other
tools
> I need, and
> > money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be
really
> appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jason Swan
Re: QCTP question

Steve Thompson
 

Hi Den,
Don't give me the credit for designing this project. I found it on the site
below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on this list (Mert
? Jim ?).

I am more than pleased with it. The only thing I would have done differently
is to make the post itself from steel as indicated on the web page. I used
LG4 gunmetal mainly because it was the only metal I had handy in the size
required. It works fine but scratches rather easily. If you don't have a
bandsaw or powered hacksaw, now is the time to buy one, cutting 1" chunks of
2"x2" Al or steel is going to give you *big* shoulders :-) I cut my first
three by hand until I got the bandsaw. Made loads since. I also added a
locknut to the height adjusting screw for obvious reasons.

After I had used it for a while, I got fed up with having to remove the top
tool post locking nut just to change holders so I made a new one. It's just
a piece of 1" round bar drilled and tapped M10 (check yours) with a hole in
the side for a tommy bar

One thing I'm going to try next time I make a holder is, after boring the
centre hole, to cut a recess in the bottom to just clear the bottom lip of
the post. This will allow the holder to sit lower down and so enable me to
use slightly larger tools if needed.

With regard to roughing cuts, with this tool post on, the compound will move
before the tool post does, it's that solid!

Hope this helps,

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: denyhstk [mailto:nheng@...]
Sent: 07 June 2003 17:41
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: QCTP question


Steve:

I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the
time for it ... until now.

I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II. The
hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality
metric hex wrench. Also, the boring bar holder is bored much too
large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar.

The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or maybe
even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area of
the cylinder. How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or
parting cuts ?

Thanks for sharing your project !

Den

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson"
<sk.thompson@n...> wrote:
> If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've just
made the
> one at . Works a treat.
>
> Steve
>
> > Hi:
> >
> > I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting
> the benefits of
> > a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I
was
> wondering
> > if the model sold by Harbor Freight
> (
> > Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone
> tried the
> > set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great
attacments
> and
> > tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other
tools
> I need, and
> > money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really
> appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jason Swan
>
>
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Re: chuck holding power

cwalklin1
 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Rich Kleinhenz"
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:
I was using a die. Single point is not a problem. So the chuck
is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die-
threading, is that it? 1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no
problem with 1/4-28. Just the nature of the beast then, I take it.
--
Regards,
Rich
====================================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


====================================================
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Streimikes" <rjs@t...>


1. I assume you are trying to single point the thread and not
trying to
use a die.
Use a small piece of emory cloth between the work and the jaws of
the chuck. It will help to grip the stock. Making sure the "grit"
side in on the stock.
Re: No reverse / What to do!

George Kaplan
 

John,

Thanks for the info. I will contact Homier on
Monday

George
--- John <moran03@...> wrote:
Hi George,

AFIK the forward/reverse is not a common problem
with the Homier
7x12's. This sounds like a problem with the f/r
switch and Homier
will likely ship a new one quickly once you contact
them. I had a
FET fail and a new board arrived from Homierwithin
10 days - nice
people to deal with.

Someone else in this group may have more knowledge
than I on the
common electrical problems. To contact owners who
are guaranteed to
be knowledgable on the lathe's electrical problems
you might try the
group which specializes in this area:


John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kgmk99"
<kgmk99@y...> wrote:
I just (2 days ago) received my new
(Homier)Speedway 7 x 12
mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. It
worked the
1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of the
forward speed
in high and low gear. Now reverse does not work at
all. Is
this a known problem with the Speedways? What
should I do
about this? The forword works great!

George

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Re: No reverse / What to do!

John
 

Hi George,

AFIK the forward/reverse is not a common problem with the Homier
7x12's. This sounds like a problem with the f/r switch and Homier
will likely ship a new one quickly once you contact them. I had a
FET fail and a new board arrived from Homierwithin 10 days - nice
people to deal with.

Someone else in this group may have more knowledge than I on the
common electrical problems. To contact owners who are guaranteed to
be knowledgable on the lathe's electrical problems you might try the
group which specializes in this area:


John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kgmk99" <kgmk99@y...> wrote:
I just (2 days ago) received my new (Homier)Speedway 7 x 12
mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. It worked the
1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of the forward speed
in high and low gear. Now reverse does not work at all. Is
this a known problem with the Speedways? What should I do
about this? The forword works great!

George
No reverse / What to do!

kgmk99
 

I just (2 days ago) received my new (Homier)Speedway 7 x 12
mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. It worked the
1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of the forward speed
in high and low gear. Now reverse does not work at all. Is
this a known problem with the Speedways? What should I do
about this? The forword works great!

George
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