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I like Varmint Al's "Work Horse" bit:



Regards,
Mark
markrages@gmail

--
Most of the time,
for most of the world,
no matter how hard people work at it,
nothing of any significance happens.
-- Weinberg's Law

www.use-enco.com - 383-5320
Those bits go on sale a lot for about 0.69 each in quantity 10.

Get ten bits, a bench grinder (6" is fine), a wheel dresser, 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and a polished granite/marble tile or plate glass.

Aaron

I would suggest getting a few carbide bits too so you can try out the
lathe right away. But its certainly ok to buy some HSS blanks too.
Take it step by step and don't try to learn everything at once. My
first lathe is on order too and I picked up a set of carbide bits and
5 hss blanks. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks. They're currently on sale for 0.84. I got everything else. I'm
a little hesitant starting out grinding my own, but if that's the best
way to go, that's what I'll do. Any suggested links for grinding?
Ed

www.use-enco.com - 383-5320
Those bits go on sale a lot for about 0.69 each in quantity 10.

Get ten bits, a bench grinder (6" is fine), a wheel dresser, 600

grit wet/dry sandpaper, and a polished granite/marble tile or plate
glass.

Aaron

Homier lathes have been out of stock for a few weeks. Their web site
said expected on 3/14, and on the 14th they updated the expected date
to 3/20. I tried to order one over the phone, but she said her
computer won't let her take an order unless it's in stock. I was
pleasantly surprised today to see their site updated to "Supplies
Limited" and quickly ordered one.

I also ordered their Accessory Kit, but I got it off of their eBay
store where it's on sale for 10% off ($89.99).

I'm going to have to make sure I have some cutting bits when it
arrives. Recommendations?

A lot of people building their own computer do much the same and think
they need better CPU cooling if the CPU temp gets up to 120F.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri
<miket--nyc@...> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 01:25:41 -0000 "houe2005" <houe2005@...>
writes:

Remember what might seem hot to us is just getting warmed up for

electronics.

People make the same mistake with oil temperatures. I have a Norton
motorcycle whose dry-sump engine holds the engine oil in a separate

tank.

Fellow owners on Internet groups are always fitting oil coolers on

these

bikes because they feel the oil tank and "it feels so hot." But

it's not

hot by engine standards -- 200? or so is normal operating

temperature for

oil a warmed-up engine.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

I can't speak from experience, my 8x12 is on order too, but there are
different grades of bits for different metals. C5/C6 is for ferrous
metals and C2 for nonferrous metals. Were you using the appropriate
grade? That being said most people do indicate that HSS does seem to
work better for softer metals and finishing cuts. I bought a C5
carbide set and some HSS blanks. I haven't done much work on a lathe
before so I don't know much about this. I'll mainly be working with
1018 steel and occasionally with some aluminum (probably 6061). What
do you think?

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote:

I'm convinced that the HF extended warranty is an even bigger

rip-off then

most of them, at least where the lathes & mills are concerned. If

the item

you purchased was less then $500 (not certain, but I assume that is

purchase

price, not normal price) then the warranty is good for one -replacement
only-. So if something goes wrong, they will replace the entire

unit, one

time only. Considering the hassle with hauling the entire unit in to the
store, and considering that most repairs are likely something that

you can

fairly easily do yourself (or pay Uncle Rabid $25 to do for you in

the case

of electrical repairs), and considering that most people will end up

making

some modifications to their lathe that will at best be lost and at worst
void the warranty, it seems like it's not a very good investment.

I believe you need a tool holder for the parting tool, something

like #1551,

though I could be wrong (I've only had my lathe a week, & just got

my LMS

"goodie box" in the mail today).

One thing that I can already suggest is that you avoid the carbide

bits & go

with HSS. You'll need to buy a grinder (~$30), but you'll get far better
results, especially if you are working with Aluminum. I bought the
equivalent of 2412 from HF when I got my lathe, and the results I

got were

lousy. When I was able to locate some lathe blanks from a local tool
supplier & grind my own, I immediately saw a -huge- improvement in the
results from the very first tool I'd ever ground. I'm sure that as my
grinding skills improve, the results will get even better. Not sure

that the

results would be as pronounced on steel or not, but they don't work

well for

aluminum at all (although, to be fair, I'm sure that someone who had

used a

lathe before could get at least a bit better results then I did). If you
need to learn how to grind the bits, the Jose Rodriguez video on the

subject

(LMS 2396) is good (though his other videos are even better).

Mike

On 3/17/07, rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote:

Well, I OFFICIALLY went down to HF today and ordered my 8x12. Prices
in the mags are now $529, and in-store prices show $549. Well, I had
made previous arrangements to use the 30% off coupon so even though
it expired on Monday I was able to use it today. TTL out the door, it
cost $380.09. I think I'm gonna be happy with it. I did NOT get the
extended warranty, but I DO have a great big grin on my face. :D

I'm putting together what I want to order for accessories and other
bits. I'm currently looking at:

(LMS ____) 1 Sync Tooth belt (550m)
(LMS ____) 1 V belt (0-720)

(LMS ____) Steady Rest
(LMS 1198) Follower Rest
(LMS ____) Face Plate
(LMS 2346) 5" 4-jaw chuck
(LMS 2925) Dial Ind. Test Ind., Mag. base
(LMS ____) Knurling Tool
(LMS 1189) Live Center
(LMS 1246) Boring Bar Set
(LMS 1261) Accessory set
(LMS ____) Cut off tool (parting tool)

Do I need extras:
Extra Center Drills (LMS 1230)
Turning Tool Set (LMS 2412)

Any suggestions or missing LMS part #s would be appreciated. Thanks.

Rance





Be sure to check out for small

mills and

lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links

Hi Rance,

Thanks for the response!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Vikki,

Its good to hear from the ladies here. After looking at the pic of
what you bought, I can't see it being very sturdy as designed. I
think I would go with something like what Barry built. The tool post
is best supported from below, not from the side.

As I have it set up now, it seems pretty sturdy, but the mount is
heavy and it is indeed hanging all off one side. Once we get moved
I'll be able to set up more of a work area and be able to build up
something like Barry did. Here in the apartment I spend more time
getting stuff out and putting stuff away than actually doing things in
the limited space available.

As for height, you
want the TIP of your gouge or skew where it meets the wood to be on
center, this puts the tool rest below center. Remember your tool will
be held at an angle (handle drooping 10-20 degrees below horizontal).
Hope this helps. I plan on using my lathe for wood initially so I'll
be able to give you more feedback in a few weeks.

I do indeed have much to learn, apparently I misunderstand. What I
found so far was the recommendation to do scraping first to get used
to the tools which I understood to be done with the rest on center.

It was a newbie safety recommendation. I think I need to get some
videos or books on wood turning, just because I am not planning on
doing a lot of it is no reason to fake it all the way <blush> :-).

With the other chisels it did say to use the built in slope on the
rest and extend to the center.

My chisels should be here Tuesday and I can get on with it! Picking
the right chisels was a rather daunting job but I finally picked this set:



All the others I found looked to be way too long for the Mini-Lathe.
Hope I did good as those sure seemed to be very reasonable. Worst
case they are an educational expense :-).

Will MUCH appreciate any comments, experiences or pix. I sorta
stagger around in the dark here until I either get some good books or
find a videos I can learn from, so far I have been lucky :).

What got me interested in all this was a girlfriend who had a 7x10(?)
that she made pens on (quite nice ones too!). Later I ran into a
fellow Ham Radio Operator who had his own mom-n-pop machine shop and I
was flat hooked! This just gets to be more fun as time goes on and
being able to make useful stuff is just incredible!!!

Long day here already, much going on, hope this makes some sense.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

I'm convinced that the HF extended warranty is an even bigger rip-off then
most of them, at least where the lathes & mills are concerned. If the item
you purchased was less then $500 (not certain, but I assume that is purchase
price, not normal price) then the warranty is good for one -replacement
only-. So if something goes wrong, they will replace the entire unit, one
time only. Considering the hassle with hauling the entire unit in to the
store, and considering that most repairs are likely something that you can
fairly easily do yourself (or pay Uncle Rabid $25 to do for you in the case
of electrical repairs), and considering that most people will end up making
some modifications to their lathe that will at best be lost and at worst
void the warranty, it seems like it's not a very good investment.

I believe you need a tool holder for the parting tool, something like #1551,
though I could be wrong (I've only had my lathe a week, & just got my LMS
"goodie box" in the mail today).

One thing that I can already suggest is that you avoid the carbide bits & go
with HSS. You'll need to buy a grinder (~$30), but you'll get far better
results, especially if you are working with Aluminum. I bought the
equivalent of 2412 from HF when I got my lathe, and the results I got were
lousy. When I was able to locate some lathe blanks from a local tool
supplier & grind my own, I immediately saw a -huge- improvement in the
results from the very first tool I'd ever ground. I'm sure that as my
grinding skills improve, the results will get even better. Not sure that the
results would be as pronounced on steel or not, but they don't work well for
aluminum at all (although, to be fair, I'm sure that someone who had used a
lathe before could get at least a bit better results then I did). If you
need to learn how to grind the bits, the Jose Rodriguez video on the subject
(LMS 2396) is good (though his other videos are even better).

Mike

How in the world were you able to not only order an 8x12 from a HF
store, but use the 30% off coupon? I would have killed to have been
able to get an X3 from a local HF retail store with a 30% off deal! I
thought 8x12's and other non-store items (like the X3) could never be
bought through a store.
For a lot of 8x12 parts go to Lathemaster and call Bob, especially
a QCTP which you will want FOR SURE and only from Lathemaster as the
one from LMS is too small and needs modified to fit the 8x12. Be
careful about ordering anything from LMS for this lathe without
talking to Chris or getting more info as this lathe doesn't have alot
of available parts(chucks etc) that will fit without mods and
adapters. Also,the cross slide dial on your lathe will be wrong. It
will say.002 when it is actually .001 (check for picts of the
Lathemaster 8x14 on the net and you'll see).

Well, I OFFICIALLY went down to HF today and ordered my 8x12. Prices
in the mags are now $529, and in-store prices show $549. Well, I had
made previous arrangements to use the 30% off coupon so even though
it expired on Monday I was able to use it today. TTL out the door, it
cost $380.09. I think I'm gonna be happy with it. I did NOT get the
extended warranty, but I DO have a great big grin on my face. :D

I'm putting together what I want to order for accessories and other
bits. I'm currently looking at:

(LMS ____) 1 Sync Tooth belt (550m)
(LMS ____) 1 V belt (0-720)

(LMS ____) Steady Rest
(LMS 1198) Follower Rest
(LMS ____) Face Plate
(LMS 2346) 5" 4-jaw chuck
(LMS 2925) Dial Ind. Test Ind., Mag. base
(LMS ____) Knurling Tool
(LMS 1189) Live Center
(LMS 1246) Boring Bar Set
(LMS 1261) Accessory set
(LMS ____) Cut off tool (parting tool)

Do I need extras:
Extra Center Drills (LMS 1230)
Turning Tool Set (LMS 2412)

Any suggestions or missing LMS part #s would be appreciated. Thanks.

Rance

Vikki,

Its good to hear from the ladies here. After looking at the pic of
what you bought, I can't see it being very sturdy as designed. I
think I would go with something like what Barry built. The tool post
is best supported from below, not from the side. As for height, you
want the TIP of your gouge or skew where it meets the wood to be on
center, this puts the tool rest below center. Remember your tool will
be held at an angle (handle drooping 10-20 degrees below horizontal).
Hope this helps. I plan on using my lathe for wood initially so I'll
be able to give you more feedback in a few weeks.

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

I ordered the wood turning tool rest kit from LMS (we'll avoid
mentioning the nightmare getting it from UPS):

ProductID=1685&category=

Granted, wood turning is new to me and I *am* fairly clueless, but

it

seems that the actual tool rest itself won't go up to more than

about

.425 below spindle center without the post wobbling. From all I

have

read so far, I want this on spindle center to do scraping before I

do

other things to learn and be less dangerous.



Not sure if I need to either shim up the toolpost or make up a
replacement pin for the tool rest itself to get near spindle center?

Also, anyone know what the thread on the center that comes with it

is?

Not planning on doing a lot of wood stuff with the lathe, but in the
process of making "simple syrup" I ended up with rock candy and

broke

the honey "spoon" and wanted to make a replacement myself :-).

Seemed

like an handy thing to have in case I do want to make anything out

of

wood.

Any thoughts appreciated!

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

I purchased the wood rest package from LMS also. Most of the time I put a round bar in the tool post since it is quick and most of the time I am just putting the final contours on the piece being worked on. Here is a photo:

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "barryvabeach"
<barryvabeach@...> wrote:

Vikki, I took some poor pictures and they are posted here with some
notes

Quite good, gives me a real good idea of how to improve this, err,
thing :-)!

If you have any questions let me know. In fairness to LMS, the spur
center is very nice. If I want to do something quick though, I
just somewhat round one end and put it in the chuck and put the
other end up against the live center and turn the end near the live
center round, then put that end in the chuck and it works out pretty
well. Barry

Looked at that last night and I like your idea here, removing the
chuck is a bit of a job.

I putzed around with it all last night and came up with a work around.
Some strap clamps that I had the impression were small enough for the
micro-mill (huge in reality) that I gave someone who forgot to take
them with him :-) worked out pretty well for jacking the whole
assembly up enough to get the tool rest down enough not to wobble for
the time being and up on spindle center! The original bolt for the
QCTP worked out well to hold it together.

About a 3/4" spacer block would probably be better, but you would
still have to completely remove the tool post to rotate it.

Seems pretty solid, but I have limited confidence in that roll pin
attachment for the rest itself, we'll see. I think the support shaft
might be better fitted than the one you have.

Added some pix of the fix to the page:



Thanks very much for sharing your fix, I'll probably replace this
kluge I came up with with something along the lines of what you did.

Take care, Vikki.

Vikki, I took some poor pictures and they are posted here with some
notes


If you have any questions let me know. In fairness to LMS, the spur
center is very nice. If I want to do something quick though, I just
somewhat round one end and put it in the chuck and put the other end up
against the live center and turn the end near the live center round,
then put that end in the chuck and it works out pretty well. Barry

Hi,

What might be missed is that the motor is running unloaded. While it is not at all unusual to run the motor for minutes at a time, the temp rise for an unloaded motor running continuously for 1 hour is interesting.

Best regards,
DBN


houe2005 <houe2005@...> wrote:
As others have pointed out this really doesn't seem out of the norm.
Remember what might seem hot to us is just getting warmed up for
electronics. Hot water at about 130F can burn skin yet most
electronics are capable of running just fine up to 185F or higher. I
had a motor once that was thermally kicking off to save itself and
that thing was HOT!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "druid_noibn" <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi All,

For those who might find it "interesting" – I noticed the motor of
the HF 8x12-14 was a tad warm and thought a check was in order.

With a motor and ambient temp of 65F the lathe was turned on – no
metal turning. The probe was located on the upper part of the motor
housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes – temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes – 49.7F;
46 minutes – 58.1F;
63 minutes – 63F – shut-down motor
66 minutes – 65.7F

I didn't run the motor unloaded yet.

So the motor runs hot - an auxiliary fan might be in order.

Take care,
DBN

---------------------------------
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.

Chris, a postscript. Warco's stand is expensive for what you get, so save your money and make a wooden one. No need for massive timber - the lathe is probably lighter than you are, and chairlegs are quite slender. 2x2 would be more than adequate. And think twice before getting the vertical slide. I rather regret buying mine. As it comes, you can't attach a machine vice or other fixings to the front without a lot of overhang. Put the money towards the milling machine which you will soon begin wanting.
Andy






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes.

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 01:25:41 -0000 "houe2005" <houe2005@...>
writes:

Remember what might seem hot to us is just getting warmed up for

electronics.

People make the same mistake with oil temperatures. I have a Norton
motorcycle whose dry-sump engine holds the engine oil in a separate tank.
Fellow owners on Internet groups are always fitting oil coolers on these
bikes because they feel the oil tank and "it feels so hot." But it's not
hot by engine standards -- 200??? or so is normal operating temperature for
oil a warmed-up engine.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

Before I made a quick-adjusting toolpost, I kept a vitamin bottle full of
old feeler gauge blades. Select an assortment of blades, scrap sheet
metal, or whatever that give you the adjustment you want and KEEP IT WITH
THE TOOL, held with a rubber band. Then whenever you put that tool in
the holder, the shimming is all ready.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Tue, 13 Mar 2007 07:18:55 -0000 "Damon Wascom" <kc5cqw@...>
writes:

Hello Barry,

Thanks VERY much for your response!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "barryvabeach"
<barryvabeach@...> wrote:

Vikki, I bought it and was not very pleased. As you saw, I could
never get it to the right height. Plus the tool rest was not rigidly
attached to the round bar portion of the post which controls
elevation.

Noticed that it was just stuck together with a roll pin, how long that
would hold up while rounding off square stock, I don't know.

My first attempt was to fabricate a wooden block to fit
on the top and inside of the tool rest and tapped the rest and that
fixed the height problem.

I am considering that approach too, a reasonably easy fix. Jacking up
the tool post itself by a half inch doesn't seem to be a real good idea.

The rest still jumped around in use so I
drilled lengthwise from top to bottom through the rest and the post
and inserted a machine screw ( with the nut on the bottom ) and that
worked to make it more rigid.

If I put the support rod down far enough and crank down on that
retaining screw, so far it seems stable enough.

The slop in the assembly itself was what was inspiring me to think
about making a replacement support rod. Bottom would fit the hole and
the top could at least be a press fit.

I grew unhappy with the way the rest
attached to the tool post

That does indeed suck. At least it gives a use for the original tool
post since it won't fit in the QCTP (probably too heavy for that
anyway). Having had it for all of a couple hours now, it seems like a
very poorly thought out design overall.

and ended up making a very simple board
that clamps to the ways and mounted the tool post in that.

If you might have pix of that, I'd sure appreciate seeing it.

I am not
sure what you are asking when you asked about thread on the center.

After getting the red glop off it, it appears to be a jam fit into the
spindle, no draw bar needed.

Good luck with your mods.

Thanks!

This thing is not a wood lathe, but will probably do for smallish
projects.

I'm less than pleased with this too. Shipping it back is more trouble
and expense than it is worth :-(.

I think the solution to this is, that if one wants to do wood turning
one gets a real wood lathe :-).

Will probably do until I figure out something better.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.