Re: how to.inspect.motor?
The gaps just need to be below the copper. Realistically, anything that will get them there will work - toothpicks, small screwdriver, blunt scribe, etc. Cheap and/or old toothbrushes are handy for lots of small cleaning projects.
After you get the brush holder aligned, consider adding some reinforcement to keep it in place. Epoxy putty or auto-body filler will work; something that can be shaped without dripping off.
Roy
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Commutator cleaned up nicely.? Looks pretty flat, doesn’t seem worn.? I didn’t expect it to be, our little lathes really don’t get enough use for that to happen.? Unlike something like a car alternator that’s running whenever you’re driving. ? Slots look fine, you don’t need to go overboard with those. ? As for the brush holder , well, there’s your problem.? They need to be pointing directly at each other, so you need to twist the one you marked back to where it’s supposed to be.? You might need to add a bit of epoxy to make sure it stays there.? Certainly explains the angled brush you pulled out.? Wonder how that happened. ? Good job!? It’ll be another 30 years before you need to do that again. ? Tony ? ?
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From: 7x12MiniLathe@groups.io <7x12MiniLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander via groups.io Sent: Friday, 5 July 2024 9:43 AM To: 7x12MiniLathe@groups.io Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] how to.inspect.motor?? I have the motor off the lathe and have cleaned up the comutator, which I have a bunch of question.
But thought I show the brush holder first.
As you can see the brush holder has gotten hot and is now missaligned.
Possible I can make up a wood stick the size of the brush and heat the brush holder up realign every thing.
If I had the time mounting one of my Consew 3/4 hp motors would not be that difficult.
Or I could just buy a new lathe, I am thinking about moving up to 8 x 16.
Thanks for the replies.
Ralph Attachments:
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
I have the motor off the lathe and have cleaned up the comutator, which I have a bunch of question. But thought I show the brush holder first.  As you can see the brush holder has gotten hot and is now missaligned. Possible I can make up a wood stick the size of the brush and heat the brush holder up realign every thing. If I had the time mounting one of my Consew 3/4 hp motors would not be that difficult. Or I could just buy a new lathe, I am thinking about moving up to 8 x 16. Thanks for the replies. Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Youtube
at 8:06
On 7/2/2024 11:32 PM, mike allen wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have another armature lathe , that I bought 20=30 years back
. Had no idea what it was , I have a weakness for things that
seem bitchin & much to my wife's dismay I have way to many .
It has a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out
the slots . After kicking it around for a bunch of years I
bought the one I posted earlier & When I did a Ebay search
to see what the Tru-Arc armature lathes were going for low &
behold there was a guy selling the twin to the old bitchin one ,
let me see if I can find a link to that one . It's nowhere as
fancy as the Tru-arc .
animal
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to clean
out the insulation. Some may require a bit of modifying to
fit properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT, mike
allen <animal@...>
wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've
seen them on ebay & at some flea markets . the
motor has that long skinny shaft with a little
star washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans out
the grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I
can find a longer youtube on it . Mine is over at
a bud's place , We were thinkin on doing some
automotive alternator windmills , but life got in
the way . I installed some new power in our local
NAPA auto parts for their new alternator tester?
when he said gimme a bill I told him I wanted the
old tester , we were gearing up & then .....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks
have a couple of the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of
them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had
one a ways back they may still ?
animal
On
7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via groups.io wrote:
Mike,?
.
I
have never seen one of these and this unit clearly
has a label identifying its'-self.
Is
this your actual lathe or similar to yours?
What
does the motor do? Help with balancing? Missing a
chuck that has a cutter to clear the grooves
between the armature contacts?
Does
it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice
history lesson.
On
7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a
yard sale . I asked the guy how much for te
armature lathe & he said " is that what that
is " . He gave it to me cause I was the only guy
out of 50-75 people that knew what it was . Have
used it a fair amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale &
ya can get it cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand
paper over teh years , their a bit cleaner then
sand paper . Here's some scotch pad info that some
of ya may find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing -
(1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800)
800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600)
600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand -
(320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320)
240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220)
150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad -
(120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600
grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000
grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from
3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On
7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You
don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean
it.
?
By
turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it
by hand, holding? the sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s
some good pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve
got.
?
“kinda
rough” is an understatement.? Basically that
carbon can build up between the copper rails
and cause a short, might be your problem.? But
yeah, shiny & smooth is good.? Once you
get all the black gunk off you be able to see
if there any further damage that you’ll need a
lathe to fix, things like gouges &
pitting.
?
What
do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My
other lathe is not running so I cannot turn
the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
What's needed is a saw blade that fits neatly in the gap between commutator segments - on larger motors, a hacksaw blade is appropriate. On these smaller motors, an X-Acto razor saw blade is the right size.
?< >
Roy
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
As with everything, there are differances. Those are from small armature to huge ones. So any method to clean out the insulation, mica, would vary in size and method. I mentioned hacksaw blade because that worked on all the generators and starters I used to constantly rebuild back in the day. I rather used the hacksaw blade than the machine we had.? So for all those that just do a few, a proper machine makes no sense. And yes, a properly cut and squared commutators should be sought after. Then sand for a nice smooth? surface. So basically, use what works for you.
george
On Wednesday, July 3, 2024 at 09:59:18 AM PDT, Jon Rus via groups.io <byghtn5@...> wrote:
Ralph,?
Truly any thing that gets the job done
with the lease amount of damage, is the "correct" tool.
.
You need to clean the gap, then lower
the material in the gap to below the surface of the commutator
contacts,?
so that, as it wears more during use,
it (they)does not begin to hold the brush up off of the contact
area.
.
Did you see the installed brushes
contacting the armature w/o the end cap yet?
Do they remain straight when contacting
the armature?
Any new photos?
.
Good Luck!
On 7/3/2024 10:18 AM, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
RE: "
?It has a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out
the slots"
I thought someone?had said it was not a good idea to use a
hacksaw?blade.
I know the Armature lathes have a rotating mental bit to
clean the slots.
So is there a difference?
Ralph
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have another armature lathe , that I bought 20=30 years
back . Had no idea what it was , I have a weakness for
things that seem bitchin & much to my wife's dismay I
have way to many . It has a short piece of hacksaw blade
mounted for cleaning out the slots . After kicking it
around for a bunch of years I bought the one I posted
earlier & When I did a Ebay search to see what the
Tru-Arc armature lathes were going for low & behold
there was a guy selling the twin to the old bitchin one ,
let me see if I can find a link to that one . It's nowhere
as fancy as the Tru-arc .
animal
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to
clean out the insulation. Some may require a bit of
modifying to fit properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT,
mike allen <animal@...>
wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked .
I've seen them on ebay & at some flea
markets . the motor has that long skinny
shaft with a little star washer kinda lookin
cutter that cleans out the grooves on the
communicator .? Let me see if I can find a
longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a
bud's place , We were thinkin on doing some
automotive alternator windmills , but life
got in the way . I installed some new power
in our local NAPA auto parts for their new
alternator tester? when he said gimme a bill
I told him I wanted the old tester , we were
gearing up & then .....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these
folks have a couple of the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn
proud of them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine
had one a ways back they may still ?
animal
On 7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via
wrote:
Mike,?
.
I have never seen one of these and this
unit clearly has a label identifying
its'-self.
Is this your actual lathe or similar to
yours?
What does the motor do? Help with
balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter
to clear the grooves between the armature
contacts?
Does it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice history lesson.
On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years
back at a yard sale . I asked the guy how
much for te armature lathe & he said "
is that what that is " . He gave it to me
cause I was the only guy out of 50-75 people
that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale
& ya can get it cheap their on the handy
side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of
sand paper over teh years , their a bit
cleaner then sand paper . Here's some scotch
pad info that some of ya may find
interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing -
(1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand -
(600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad -
(600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand
- (320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand -
(280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad
(180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad -
(120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's
600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about
1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly
from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You don’t need to turn it, you just
need to clean it.
?
By turn I meant put it in the chuck
and spin it by hand, holding? the
sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s some good pictures showing
the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what
you’ve got.
?
“kinda rough” is an
understatement.? Basically that carbon
can build up between the copper rails
and cause a short, might be your
problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth
is good.? Once you get all the black
gunk off you be able to see if there any
further damage that you’ll need a lathe
to fix, things like gouges &
pitting.
?
What do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My other lathe is not running so I
cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
As far as I can tell the difference is dependent on the
manufacturers idea on what & how their tool is supposed to
function . I can't find a picture of the second one I mentioned
with the hacksaw blade . I can't get to that second " armature
lathe " so show what it is/has . As far as cleaning out the
armature slots one uses the hacksaw or maybe it's a hacksaw type
blade vs a small rotating blade? They both achieve? the same
result , but I'm betting that the hacksaw blade unit will have a
much earlier patent date . I have no idea whe I'm gettin out so
dependin on what I'm allowed to do I will get some pics so at
least we can add to the motor cleaning database .
animal
On 7/3/24 7:18 AM, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
RE: "
?It has a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out
the slots"
I thought someone?had said it was not a good idea to use a
hacksaw?blade.
I know the Armature lathes have a rotating mental bit to
clean the slots.
So is there a difference?
Ralph
I have another armature lathe , that I bought 20=30 years
back . Had no idea what it was , I have a weakness for
things that seem bitchin & much to my wife's dismay I
have way to many . It has a short piece of hacksaw blade
mounted for cleaning out the slots . After kicking it
around for a bunch of years I bought the one I posted
earlier & When I did a Ebay search to see what the
Tru-Arc armature lathes were going for low & behold
there was a guy selling the twin to the old bitchin one ,
let me see if I can find a link to that one . It's nowhere
as fancy as the Tru-arc .
animal
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to
clean out the insulation. Some may require a bit of
modifying to fit properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT,
mike allen <animal@...>
wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked .
I've seen them on ebay & at some flea
markets . the motor has that long skinny
shaft with a little star washer kinda lookin
cutter that cleans out the grooves on the
communicator .? Let me see if I can find a
longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a
bud's place , We were thinkin on doing some
automotive alternator windmills , but life
got in the way . I installed some new power
in our local NAPA auto parts for their new
alternator tester? when he said gimme a bill
I told him I wanted the old tester , we were
gearing up & then .....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these
folks have a couple of the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn
proud of them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine
had one a ways back they may still ?
animal
On 7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via
wrote:
Mike,?
.
I have never seen one of these and this
unit clearly has a label identifying
its'-self.
Is this your actual lathe or similar to
yours?
What does the motor do? Help with
balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter
to clear the grooves between the armature
contacts?
Does it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice history lesson.
On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years
back at a yard sale . I asked the guy how
much for te armature lathe & he said "
is that what that is " . He gave it to me
cause I was the only guy out of 50-75 people
that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale
& ya can get it cheap their on the handy
side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of
sand paper over teh years , their a bit
cleaner then sand paper . Here's some scotch
pad info that some of ya may find
interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing -
(1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand -
(600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad -
(600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand
- (320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand -
(280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad
(180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad -
(120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's
600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about
1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly
from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You don’t need to turn it, you just
need to clean it.
?
By turn I meant put it in the chuck
and spin it by hand, holding? the
sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s some good pictures showing
the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what
you’ve got.
?
“kinda rough” is an
understatement.? Basically that carbon
can build up between the copper rails
and cause a short, might be your
problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth
is good.? Once you get all the black
gunk off you be able to see if there any
further damage that you’ll need a lathe
to fix, things like gouges &
pitting.
?
What do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My other lathe is not running so I
cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Ralph,?
Truly any thing that gets the job done
with the lease amount of damage, is the "correct" tool.
.
You need to clean the gap, then lower
the material in the gap to below the surface of the commutator
contacts,?
so that, as it wears more during use,
it (they)does not begin to hold the brush up off of the contact
area.
.
Did you see the installed brushes
contacting the armature w/o the end cap yet?
Do they remain straight when contacting
the armature?
Any new photos?
.
Good Luck!
On 7/3/2024 10:18 AM, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
RE: "
?It has a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out
the slots"
I thought someone?had said it was not a good idea to use a
hacksaw?blade.
I know the Armature lathes have a rotating mental bit to
clean the slots.
So is there a difference?
Ralph
I have another armature lathe , that I bought 20=30 years
back . Had no idea what it was , I have a weakness for
things that seem bitchin & much to my wife's dismay I
have way to many . It has a short piece of hacksaw blade
mounted for cleaning out the slots . After kicking it
around for a bunch of years I bought the one I posted
earlier & When I did a Ebay search to see what the
Tru-Arc armature lathes were going for low & behold
there was a guy selling the twin to the old bitchin one ,
let me see if I can find a link to that one . It's nowhere
as fancy as the Tru-arc .
animal
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to
clean out the insulation. Some may require a bit of
modifying to fit properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT,
mike allen <animal@...>
wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked .
I've seen them on ebay & at some flea
markets . the motor has that long skinny
shaft with a little star washer kinda lookin
cutter that cleans out the grooves on the
communicator .? Let me see if I can find a
longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a
bud's place , We were thinkin on doing some
automotive alternator windmills , but life
got in the way . I installed some new power
in our local NAPA auto parts for their new
alternator tester? when he said gimme a bill
I told him I wanted the old tester , we were
gearing up & then .....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these
folks have a couple of the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn
proud of them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine
had one a ways back they may still ?
animal
On 7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via
wrote:
Mike,?
.
I have never seen one of these and this
unit clearly has a label identifying
its'-self.
Is this your actual lathe or similar to
yours?
What does the motor do? Help with
balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter
to clear the grooves between the armature
contacts?
Does it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice history lesson.
On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years
back at a yard sale . I asked the guy how
much for te armature lathe & he said "
is that what that is " . He gave it to me
cause I was the only guy out of 50-75 people
that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale
& ya can get it cheap their on the handy
side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of
sand paper over teh years , their a bit
cleaner then sand paper . Here's some scotch
pad info that some of ya may find
interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing -
(1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand -
(600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad -
(600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand
- (320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand -
(280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad
(180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad -
(120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's
600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about
1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly
from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You don’t need to turn it, you just
need to clean it.
?
By turn I meant put it in the chuck
and spin it by hand, holding? the
sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s some good pictures showing
the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what
you’ve got.
?
“kinda rough” is an
understatement.? Basically that carbon
can build up between the copper rails
and cause a short, might be your
problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth
is good.? Once you get all the black
gunk off you be able to see if there any
further damage that you’ll need a lathe
to fix, things like gouges &
pitting.
?
What do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My other lathe is not running so I
cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Handsaw blade will be fine.? You want something with a bit of width to scrape out the junk.? Hacksaw is pretty blunt compared to a knife and less like to cause any damage. ? Anything that you can scrape with will do. you’re not trying to cut the motor in half, just cleaning out the slots.? Drop the hacksaw blade down in the slot & pull it back with a little bit of pressure from your thumb, a bit like trying to start a cut with a saw. ? Tony ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12MiniLathe@groups.io <7x12MiniLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander via groups.io Sent: Thursday, 4 July 2024 12:18 AM To: 7x12MiniLathe@groups.io Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] how to.inspect.motor?? RE: " ?It has a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out the slots" I thought someone?had said it was not a good idea to use a hacksaw?blade. I know the Armature lathes have a rotating mental bit to clean the slots. So is there a difference? ? I have another armature lathe , that I bought 20=30 years back . Had no idea what it was , I have a weakness for things that seem bitchin & much to my wife's dismay I have way to many . It has a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out the slots . After kicking it around for a bunch of years I bought the one I posted earlier & When I did a Ebay search to see what the Tru-Arc armature lathes were going for low & behold there was a guy selling the twin to the old bitchin one , let me see if I can find a link to that one . It's nowhere as fancy as the Tru-arc . animal ? One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to clean out the insulation. Some may require a bit of modifying to fit properly. On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote: ??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've seen them on ebay & at some flea markets . the motor has that long skinny shaft with a little star washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans out the grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I can find a longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a bud's place , We were thinkin on doing some automotive alternator windmills , but life got in the way . I installed some new power in our local NAPA auto parts for their new alternator tester? when he said gimme a bill I told him I wanted the old tester , we were gearing up & then ..... Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks have a couple of the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had one a ways back they may still ? animal On 7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via wrote: I have never seen one of these and this unit clearly has a label identifying its'-self. Is this your actual lathe or similar to yours? What does the motor do? Help with balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter to clear the grooves between the armature contacts? Does it have a main drive motor? On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote: I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a yard sale . I asked the guy how much for te armature lathe & he said " is that what that is " . He gave it to me cause I was the only guy out of 50-75 people that knew what it was . Have used it a fair amount over the years . .? If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya can get it cheap their on the handy side . I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper over teh years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper . Here's some scotch pad info that some of ya may find interesting SCOTCH-BRITE GRIT CHART 3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads: 7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit 7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit. 6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit 7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit 6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit 7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit 7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?) Green Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit. Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit. (The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.) 3M Chart Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive 7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440 Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish animal On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote: You don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean it. ? By turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by hand, holding? the sandpaper in the other. ? Here’s some good pictures showing the general idea: , obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got. ? “kinda rough” is an understatement.? Basically that carbon can build up between the copper rails and cause a short, might be your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.? Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see if there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to fix, things like gouges & pitting. ? What do you mean by belt? ? Tony ? ? ? ? My other lathe is not running so I cannot turn the commutator. That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph ?
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
RE: "
?It has a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out the slots"
I thought someone?had said it was not a good idea to use a hacksaw?blade.
I know the Armature lathes have a rotating mental bit to clean the slots.
So is there a difference?
Ralph
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have another armature lathe , that I bought 20=30 years back .
Had no idea what it was , I have a weakness for things that seem
bitchin & much to my wife's dismay I have way to many . It has
a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out the slots
. After kicking it around for a bunch of years I bought the one I
posted earlier & When I did a Ebay search to see what the
Tru-Arc armature lathes were going for low & behold there was
a guy selling the twin to the old bitchin one , let me see if I
can find a link to that one . It's nowhere as fancy as the Tru-arc
.
animal
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to clean out
the insulation. Some may require a bit of modifying to fit
properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT, mike allen
<animal@...> wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've
seen them on ebay & at some flea markets . the
motor has that long skinny shaft with a little star
washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans out the
grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I can
find a longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a
bud's place , We were thinkin on doing some
automotive alternator windmills , but life got in
the way . I installed some new power in our local
NAPA auto parts for their new alternator tester?
when he said gimme a bill I told him I wanted the
old tester , we were gearing up & then .....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks have
a couple of the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of
them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had one
a ways back they may still ?
animal
On
7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via wrote:
Mike,?
.
I
have never seen one of these and this unit clearly
has a label identifying its'-self.
Is
this your actual lathe or similar to yours?
What
does the motor do? Help with balancing? Missing a
chuck that has a cutter to clear the grooves between
the armature contacts?
Does
it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice
history lesson.
On
7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a
yard sale . I asked the guy how much for te armature
lathe & he said " is that what that is " . He
gave it to me cause I was the only guy out of 50-75
people that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya
can get it cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper
over teh years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper
. Here's some scotch pad info that some of ya may
find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000)
1200-1500 grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800)
800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600)
600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand -
(320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320)
240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150
grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150)
60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600
grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On
7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You
don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean
it.
?
By
turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by
hand, holding? the sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s
some good pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda
rough” is an understatement.? Basically that
carbon can build up between the copper rails and
cause a short, might be your problem.? But yeah,
shiny & smooth is good.? Once you get all
the black gunk off you be able to see if there
any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to
fix, things like gouges & pitting.
?
What
do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My
other lathe is not running so I cannot turn the
commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
I have another armature lathe , that I bought 20=30 years back .
Had no idea what it was , I have a weakness for things that seem
bitchin & much to my wife's dismay I have way to many . It has
a short piece of hacksaw blade mounted for cleaning out the slots
. After kicking it around for a bunch of years I bought the one I
posted earlier & When I did a Ebay search to see what the
Tru-Arc armature lathes were going for low & behold there was
a guy selling the twin to the old bitchin one , let me see if I
can find a link to that one . It's nowhere as fancy as the Tru-arc
.
animal
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to clean out
the insulation. Some may require a bit of modifying to fit
properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT, mike allen
<animal@...> wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've
seen them on ebay & at some flea markets . the
motor has that long skinny shaft with a little star
washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans out the
grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I can
find a longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a
bud's place , We were thinkin on doing some
automotive alternator windmills , but life got in
the way . I installed some new power in our local
NAPA auto parts for their new alternator tester?
when he said gimme a bill I told him I wanted the
old tester , we were gearing up & then .....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks have
a couple of the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of
them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had one
a ways back they may still ?
animal
On
7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via groups.io wrote:
Mike,?
.
I
have never seen one of these and this unit clearly
has a label identifying its'-self.
Is
this your actual lathe or similar to yours?
What
does the motor do? Help with balancing? Missing a
chuck that has a cutter to clear the grooves between
the armature contacts?
Does
it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice
history lesson.
On
7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a
yard sale . I asked the guy how much for te armature
lathe & he said " is that what that is " . He
gave it to me cause I was the only guy out of 50-75
people that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya
can get it cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper
over teh years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper
. Here's some scotch pad info that some of ya may
find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000)
1200-1500 grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800)
800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600)
600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand -
(320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320)
240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150
grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150)
60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600
grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On
7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You
don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean
it.
?
By
turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by
hand, holding? the sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s
some good pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda
rough” is an understatement.? Basically that
carbon can build up between the copper rails and
cause a short, might be your problem.? But yeah,
shiny & smooth is good.? Once you get all
the black gunk off you be able to see if there
any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to
fix, things like gouges & pitting.
?
What
do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My
other lathe is not running so I cannot turn the
commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
You can do a pretty good job by just using a strip of abrasive paper in a shoe-shine motion with the armature held in a vise or clamped to something convenient. I did quite a few motors that way before I got a lathe. It works because you're not really removing much metal & the natural tendency is to automatically? make repeated motions the same way.
Roy
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Here's a pretty comprehensive guide to actually available belts & pulleys:
?< >
Roy
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
You do NOT need to remove the timing belt from the lathe , just from the motor pulley. You may need to remove the lead screw to remove the nuts that hold the motor to the lathe bed. You should not need to remove anything more than the gear and key on the left end of the lead screw and the support bracket at its right end to remove the lead screw.
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Thanks for the help. I will have to clear a space to dismantle the lathe for further inspection. That will not be easy!
Ralph
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The holders should be fixed firmly to the end cap, and lined up directly to the one on the other side.? The brush should have just enough clearance to slide in & out, but not wobble about. ? I think the brush might have been damaged from all the crap on the commutator. ? Tony ? ? ? You should remove the motor endcap nearest the brushed, then install the brushes as they were and see what is going on with them.? Things will be a little bit loose, but you should see why the one brush is wearing unevenly.? Try each brush in each hole, and even turn the brushes 180 degrees, (like a drill, not a pizza) and see if they fit better or worse in 1 attitude or the other. Turn the main armature and see if the brushed become dislodged, they should remain perfectly perpendicular as you spin the armature. Continue disassembly and clean all of the carbon dust out of the interior and reassemble with? a drop of oil on the bearings. If the bearings have even the smallest amount ow wear, the motor can fail to run. The shaft can become out of center with the magnetic field and lock up while power is applied and then turn smooth again without power. On 7/1/2024 5:23 PM, Tony Smith wrote: You really need to check if that holder is bent or loose.? That commutator shouldn’t be the that black.? Or any sort of black really, it needs cleaning. ? Doing both isn’t too hard.? You need to pull the end cap off, just take those 4 bolts out.? The cap will be on tight, you might need to tap it off with a hammer.? Once you get that off the armature should come out.? Would help if you take the pulley off.? The bearing in the end cap often hinders things, just slowly work at it. ? Before you do that put some marks on the case so you know how to put it back together. ? Just check the brush holders for anything “odd”.? Loose, cracked, bent, etc.? That brush shouldn’t be angled, and neither should the holder. ? Cleaning the commutator is basically using fine sandpaper(600 grit or better) ?to get back to the copper.? Use a solvent and brush to get as much of the crud off as you can.? Put the armature into the lathe, wrap a strip of sandpaper around the commutator (like you’re not supposed to do) and spin it.? Powering up the lathe would make it easier, but y’know.? If you’ve got a drill stick it in there. ? Go easy, the copper is hardened, but it’s copper.? It won’t take long. ? It’s possible the commutator is worn, but unlikely.? The fix is you just simply turn it down in the lathe, but again. yeah k’know. ? Once? that’s done find something to clean out the slots in the commutator, a hard plastic tool or the like.? Don’t use a knife etc.? There are mica insulators down in the slots, again be gentle and don’t damage those.? You want to get all the carbon & copper dust out. ? Wipe it down with the solvent, put it back together and see how it runs.? ? Tony ? ? ? Here is a video viewing the commutator and brush holder.

Attachments: - Brushes 1.mp4
?
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
The holders should be fixed firmly to the end cap, and lined up directly to the one on the other side.? The brush should have just enough clearance to slide in & out, but not wobble about. ? I think the brush might have been damaged from all the crap on the commutator. ? Tony ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12MiniLathe@groups.io <7x12MiniLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of Jon Rus via groups.io Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2024 12:56 PM To: 7x12MiniLathe@groups.io Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] how to.inspect.motor?? You should remove the motor endcap nearest the brushed, then install the brushes as they were and see what is going on with them.? Things will be a little bit loose, but you should see why the one brush is wearing unevenly.? Try each brush in each hole, and even turn the brushes 180 degrees, (like a drill, not a pizza) and see if they fit better or worse in 1 attitude or the other. Turn the main armature and see if the brushed become dislodged, they should remain perfectly perpendicular as you spin the armature. Continue disassembly and clean all of the carbon dust out of the interior and reassemble with? a drop of oil on the bearings. If the bearings have even the smallest amount ow wear, the motor can fail to run. The shaft can become out of center with the magnetic field and lock up while power is applied and then turn smooth again without power. On 7/1/2024 5:23 PM, Tony Smith wrote: You really need to check if that holder is bent or loose.? That commutator shouldn’t be the that black.? Or any sort of black really, it needs cleaning. ? Doing both isn’t too hard.? You need to pull the end cap off, just take those 4 bolts out.? The cap will be on tight, you might need to tap it off with a hammer.? Once you get that off the armature should come out.? Would help if you take the pulley off.? The bearing in the end cap often hinders things, just slowly work at it. ? Before you do that put some marks on the case so you know how to put it back together. ? Just check the brush holders for anything “odd”.? Loose, cracked, bent, etc.? That brush shouldn’t be angled, and neither should the holder. ? Cleaning the commutator is basically using fine sandpaper(600 grit or better) ?to get back to the copper.? Use a solvent and brush to get as much of the crud off as you can.? Put the armature into the lathe, wrap a strip of sandpaper around the commutator (like you’re not supposed to do) and spin it.? Powering up the lathe would make it easier, but y’know.? If you’ve got a drill stick it in there. ? Go easy, the copper is hardened, but it’s copper.? It won’t take long. ? It’s possible the commutator is worn, but unlikely.? The fix is you just simply turn it down in the lathe, but again. yeah k’know. ? Once? that’s done find something to clean out the slots in the commutator, a hard plastic tool or the like.? Don’t use a knife etc.? There are mica insulators down in the slots, again be gentle and don’t damage those.? You want to get all the carbon & copper dust out. ? Wipe it down with the solvent, put it back together and see how it runs.? ? Tony ? ? ? Here is a video viewing the commutator and brush holder.

Attachments: - Brushes 1.mp4
?
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
One can also take a hacksaw blade and use that to clean out the insulation. Some may require a bit of modifying to fit properly.
george
On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 10:42:04 PM PDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've seen them on
ebay & at some flea markets . the motor has that long skinny
shaft with a little star washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans
out the grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I can find a
longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a bud's place , We were
thinkin on doing some automotive alternator windmills , but life
got in the way . I installed some new power in our local NAPA auto
parts for their new alternator tester? when he said gimme a bill I
told him I wanted the old tester , we were gearing up & then
.....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks have a couple of
the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had one a ways back
they may still ?
animal
On 7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via
groups.io wrote:
Mike,?
.
I have never seen one of these and
this unit clearly has a label identifying its'-self.
Is this your actual lathe or similar
to yours?
What does the motor do? Help with
balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter to clear the
grooves between the armature contacts?
Does it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice history lesson.
On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen
wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a yard sale .
I asked the guy how much for te armature lathe & he said "
is that what that is " . He gave it to me cause I was the only
guy out of 50-75 people that knew what it was . Have used it a
fair amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya can get
it cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper over teh
years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper . Here's some
scotch pad info that some of ya may find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500
grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320
grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith
wrote:
You don’t need to
turn it, you just need to clean it.
?
By turn I meant put
it in the chuck and spin it by hand, holding? the
sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s some good
pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda rough” is an
understatement.? Basically that carbon can build up
between the copper rails and cause a short, might be
your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.?
Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see
if there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to
fix, things like gouges & pitting.
?
What do you mean by
belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
??? Mine is identical to the one I linked . I've seen them on
ebay & at some flea markets . the motor has that long skinny
shaft with a little star washer kinda lookin cutter that cleans
out the grooves on the communicator .? Let me see if I can find a
longer youtube on it . Mine is over at a bud's place , We were
thinkin on doing some automotive alternator windmills , but life
got in the way . I installed some new power in our local NAPA auto
parts for their new alternator tester? when he said gimme a bill I
told him I wanted the old tester , we were gearing up & then
.....
Here's a pretty good tube on one , these folks have a couple of
the l'll buggers .
Ebay has a couple but their pretty darn proud of them .
this ones pretty good , Lost Creek Machine had one a ways back
they may still ?
animal
On 7/1/24 8:53 PM, Jon Rus via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Mike,?
.
I have never seen one of these and
this unit clearly has a label identifying its'-self.
Is this your actual lathe or similar
to yours?
What does the motor do? Help with
balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter to clear the
grooves between the armature contacts?
Does it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice history lesson.
On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen
wrote:
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a yard sale .
I asked the guy how much for te armature lathe & he said "
is that what that is " . He gave it to me cause I was the only
guy out of 50-75 people that knew what it was . Have used it a
fair amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya can get
it cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper over teh
years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper . Here's some
scotch pad info that some of ya may find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500
grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320
grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith
wrote:
You don’t need to
turn it, you just need to clean it.
?
By turn I meant put
it in the chuck and spin it by hand, holding? the
sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s some good
pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda rough” is an
understatement.? Basically that carbon can build up
between the copper rails and cause a short, might be
your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.?
Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see
if there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to
fix, things like gouges & pitting.
?
What do you mean by
belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My other lathe is not running so I
cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|
Re: how to.inspect.motor?
Mike,?
.
I have never seen one of these and this
unit clearly has a label identifying its'-self.
Is this your actual lathe or similar to
yours?
What does the motor do? Help with
balancing? Missing a chuck that has a cutter to clear the grooves
between the armature contacts?
Does it have a main drive motor?
.
Nice history lesson.
On 7/1/2024 11:44 PM, mike allen wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I picked up a armature lathe many years back at a yard sale . I
asked the guy how much for te armature lathe & he said " is
that what that is " . He gave it to me cause I was the only guy
out of 50-75 people that knew what it was . Have used it a fair
amount over the years .
.?
If ya ever see one of these at a yard sale & ya can get it
cheap their on the handy side .
I've always used scotch pads instead of sand paper over teh
years , their a bit cleaner then sand paper . Here's some scotch
pad info that some of ya may find interesting
SCOTCH-BRITE
GRIT CHART
3M
Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445
- White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500
grit
7448
- Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448
- Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447
- Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444
- Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446
- Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440
- Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green
Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue
Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The
value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M
Chart
Less
Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445
7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer
Finish --------> Coarser Finish
animal
On 7/1/24 7:33 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
You
don’t need to turn it, you just need to clean it.
?
By
turn I meant put it in the chuck and spin it by hand,
holding? the sandpaper in the other.
?
Here’s
some good pictures showing the general idea: ,
obviously a smaller motor than what you’ve got.
?
“kinda
rough” is an understatement.? Basically that carbon can
build up between the copper rails and cause a short, might
be your problem.? But yeah, shiny & smooth is good.?
Once you get all the black gunk off you be able to see if
there any further damage that you’ll need a lathe to fix,
things like gouges & pitting.
?
What
do you mean by belt?
?
Tony
?
?
?
?
My other lathe is not running so I
cannot turn the commutator.
That commutator does look kinda rough.
What is the belt?
Ralph
|