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Here's some info that may be of interest:



Frank Hoose


--- copascetic1 <copascetic1@...> wrote:

Would enjoy hearing opinions from owners of the
Micromark 7X14



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In a message dated 11/15/2002 4:26:22 AM Atlantic Standard Time,
fhoose@... writes:

Read your review many time before I purchased my 7X14. I had written to you
quite some time ago how thru the largesse of a friend of mine I had the
opportunity to "play" with a 9X20 and a 7X10. 9X too big, too many mods to
bring it up to speed, 7X many features I liked, variable speed,tumblers,
etc., too small. The 7X14 was just right, reminded me of a SB I had many
years ago. I am very pleased with the 7X14, just wanted to know what other
owners may have experienced with it "under fire"

Good Morning All:

After much checking and testing of my Homier 7x12 lathe, I
removed the hs assembly, and found the cause of the alignment
problem. The locating vee way was gouged out during the machining
process, causing the spindle to be out of alignment with the bed
assembly. Back to front of the spindle measured a difference of
0.004" difference, and the difference in height between the hs and ts
assembly showed the hs to be 0.125" low. A new hs casting is on
order, and hopefully, this will correct the alignment problems. I am
in the process of replacing the saddle gibs with new ones of brass
while waiting for the hs casting,and giving everything a good once
over. Other than this setback, I believe these lathes to be a good
value for the money, and appear to be quite capable machines. I want
to thank everyone for all the help in getting to the root cause of my
problem with this lathe (taper turning), and look forward to
reporting my progress. Nick

Would enjoy hearing opinions from owners of the Micromark 7X14

Would enjoy hearing opinions from owners of the Micromark 7X14

Generally very true. Usually the only detractors for a longer bed are budget and shop space.

When considering how the extra length would be useful, remember all the work that can be done with the tailstock. Drilling, reaming, tapping and threading with a die. These operations can consume quite a bit of the tool space. Especially when you add the length of threading tool holders. Many Model Engineer experts recommend using taps and dies for threads 1/4" and smaller.

And sometimes, it's just nice to be able to move the tailstock out of the way without having to remove it from the bed.

Paul, Central OR


franksjoy@... wrote:

No...

With the HF 7x10, the working distance with the chuck mounted is more like 8". They use the older convention of distance between tapered centers mounted at both the headstock and tailstock to get 10".

Also, the headstock spindle bore would not take 1" stock for trying to hold the bolt by its shank with just the head exposed. The bore is just under 13/16", and some users have used a reamer to open it up to a full 13/16".

Paul, Central OR


franksjoy@... wrote:

Frankie,

For the lack of a better example, I'll try this one...

Imagine you had a big 1" bolt, 12" long. You want to face the underside of the head, and turn the flats off the bottom 1/8" of the hex portion.

You could hold the top portion of the bolt head in the chuck, and support the threaded end of the bolt at the tailstock. All of the work would take place within a 1" area near the chuck, but the between center space allows the full length handling of the project.

Paul, Central OR


lathechuck wrote:

With all the talk about bed length, it seems to me the only space
that matters is how much space you have between the work piece in a
chuck and tool bit in the compound
Frankie

So, that would imply, as to lathe size, the bigger the better, no?

Frankie

Retaining the same dimensions you gave, could you do it on a 7X10?

Frankie

Nick,
I'm on digest mode so my response is slow coming.

First thing to do is pull your tailstock off and ck for burrs, rough
spots, etc. after you do the initial alignment ck. Use a small, fine
file to ease off.

To ck for hi/lo spots, use markup dye [Magic Marker will work also]
and a good straightedge on the wear surfaces of the TS. To clean small
areas, I use toilet paper dipped in rubbing alcohol - any burr/rough
spot will tear the paper. Need to remember to re-oil afterwards as RA
has water in it.

Might also pull your headstock and ck also if you find anything on the
tailstock. The reason why is after you use the lathe, the headstock
could settle and your alignment would be off again.

That's the problem with the Chinese stuff - in order to keep it cheap,
shortcuts are taken. Besides, taking the lathe apart will teach you a lot.
Keep some bandaids and hydrogen peroxide around because the burrs can
be sharp!
-=- Bob


Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 07:51:25 -0800 (PST)

Here's a link to an article by Jose Rodriguez that may
be helpful. Also some info by Rick Kruger




--- ntdefeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Good Morning Frank,

I am turning 1/2" dia 6061 aluminum and 1/2"
12L14 stock. Using
a dial indicator on the carriage, I am seeing .010"
reading from the
chuck (standard 3 jaw) to the ts, measuring against
the rear of the
stock. On the top of the stock, I am seeing a 020"
from the chuck to
the ts, with the live center bearing on the stock,
or not. Is it
possible the hs is not correctly aligned with the
bed, and ts height?
I am a former machinist, although that was many
years ago, and am
just getting back into it as a hobby. I was thinking
that either
shimming the hs to the ts height to correct the
difference, and
perhaps some judicial filing of the hs base to
correct the
parallelism to the bed. Any tricks you could provide
would be greatly
appreciated. Best regards, Nick






-- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...>
wrote:

It seems unlikely to me that the HS is out of
alignment. The TS easily could be, but you can get

it

close enough for most work by simply turning a

point

onto a piece of stock using the compound and

bringing

the point of a dead center mounted in the TS to

meet

it (see photo).

What diameter stock are you turning and how are

you

holding it?

Frank Hoose



--- ntdefeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Morning All:

Having trouble setting up a Homier 7X12

lathe

recently
purchased. This lathe is turning a taper from
tailstock to headstock
no matter how much adjustment I make to correct
tailstock setover. Is
it possible that the tail and head are not set
parallel to eachother?
Has anyone else run across the same difficulty?

Any

advice on this
problem, with methods to correct it would be

greatly

appreciated, as
this little unit appears to be a good value for

the

money. Best
regards, Nick



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Here's a website with the info for decoding carbide inserts:



-=- Bob

Good Morning Bob:
I appreciate the quick response and will try this method. Should the ts prove to be too high, would it be better to shim the hs, or lower the ts with some careful filing of the base assembly? I realize some of the problem is due to the carriage assembly needing adjustment, and will tend to that issue prior to testing the hs/ts alignment. Thanks for the info. Sincerely, Nick
Bob Colquitt <wahsatch@...> wrote:Nick,
Was reading in an old PM Shop Notes last night a possible solution.
Buy yourself a piece of ground drill rod a touch over 10" long -
something which will go thru the spindle - 1/2" dia.?
Center in your chuck and center drill both ends. Mark a spot near both
ends with the marks 10" apart.
Put centers in both your spindle and tailstock and mount your test rod.
Mount a dial indicator in your tool post and ck the height on the rod
at both marks and then ck the side at both marks.
This will quickly tell you if your tailstock is too hi/lo, off to one
side or the other, or both. From there you will be able to know what is off.
Good Luck,
-=- Bob

Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 17:16:31 -0000
From: "ntdefeo" <ntdefeo@...>
Subject: Correcting Lathe accuracy

Good Morning All:

Having trouble setting up a Homier 7X12 lathe recently
purchased. This lathe is turning a taper from tailstock to headstock
no matter how much adjustment I make to correct tailstock setover. Is
it possible that the tail and head are not set parallel to eachother?
Has anyone else run across the same difficulty? Any advice on this
problem, with methods to correct it would be greatly appreciated, as
this little unit appears to be a good value for the money. Best
regards, Nickc

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Nick,
Was reading in an old PM Shop Notes last night a possible solution.
Buy yourself a piece of ground drill rod a touch over 10" long -
something which will go thru the spindle - 1/2" dia.?
Center in your chuck and center drill both ends. Mark a spot near both
ends with the marks 10" apart.
Put centers in both your spindle and tailstock and mount your test rod.
Mount a dial indicator in your tool post and ck the height on the rod
at both marks and then ck the side at both marks.
This will quickly tell you if your tailstock is too hi/lo, off to one
side or the other, or both. From there you will be able to know what is off.
Good Luck,
-=- Bob

Good Morning Frank,

I am turning 1/2" dia 6061 aluminum and 1/2" 12L14 stock. Using
a dial indicator on the carriage, I am seeing .010" reading from the
chuck (standard 3 jaw) to the ts, measuring against the rear of the
stock. On the top of the stock, I am seeing a 020" from the chuck to
the ts, with the live center bearing on the stock, or not. Is it
possible the hs is not correctly aligned with the bed, and ts height?
I am a former machinist, although that was many years ago, and am
just getting back into it as a hobby. I was thinking that either
shimming the hs to the ts height to correct the difference, and
perhaps some judicial filing of the hs base to correct the
parallelism to the bed. Any tricks you could provide would be greatly
appreciated. Best regards, Nick

It seems unlikely to me that the HS is out of
alignment. The TS easily could be, but you can get it
close enough for most work by simply turning a point
onto a piece of stock using the compound and bringing
the point of a dead center mounted in the TS to meet
it (see photo).

What diameter stock are you turning and how are you
holding it?

Frank Hoose



--- ntdefeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Good Morning All:

Having trouble setting up a Homier 7X12 lathe
recently
purchased. This lathe is turning a taper from
tailstock to headstock
no matter how much adjustment I make to correct
tailstock setover. Is
it possible that the tail and head are not set
parallel to eachother?
Has anyone else run across the same difficulty? Any
advice on this
problem, with methods to correct it would be greatly
appreciated, as
this little unit appears to be a good value for the
money. Best
regards, Nick



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Good Morning All:

Having trouble setting up a Homier 7X12 lathe recently
purchased. This lathe is turning a taper from tailstock to headstock
no matter how much adjustment I make to correct tailstock setover. Is
it possible that the tail and head are not set parallel to eachother?
Has anyone else run across the same difficulty? Any advice on this
problem, with methods to correct it would be greatly appreciated, as
this little unit appears to be a good value for the money. Best
regards, Nick

LMS has several different types of turning tools that take the indexable
inserts. My question is, what's the difference between these two types of
inserts?

TCMM inserts
TCMT Inserts

Thanks,
Brice