I think there are two pulleys in the center, one is connected to the shaft, one is loose on the shaft.? A flat belt would be shifted from one to the other to either drive the shaft or not.??
Brian
On 02/14/2025 2:47 PM EST Bruce J via groups.io <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
?
?
Presuming it’s the big green wheel you want to drive, replace the black stone on the other side with a pulley or a direct connection to the shaft. I have a similar arbor at home, although it does have a pulley in the middle for a motor to drive it.
?
I assume the round shaft cover in the middle covers it all around??
?
Might it be open at the bottom for a belt coming up from underneath? Hard to say how it’s supposed to work with only the one view, but it’s clearly an arbor meant to be driven so there’s GOT to be some way of doing that…
?
Or is the ‘black ’stone’ just an old hard rubber wheel designed to take a flat belt? IF so it needs either shaping or replacing since a wheel like that should be slightly crowned.
On Feb 14, 2025, at 8:29?AM, Jacques Savard via groups.io <jacquessavard@...> wrote:
A-
I ahve this? vintage? setup?
?
I put some? grinder? disk? put? tooo? large? for? my? normal? use?
?
I? put? al x6? to male a kind? of? wheel?
?
advise? is? it? good? or? a? bad? edeal
?
B-
someone? maybe? know? howto? drive? this? kind? of? wheel? system??
not? possible? to? dismentle?
?
have to? made? some? kond? of? drive? belt
?
advise? howto please
jack 47 71
?
?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Presuming it’s the big green wheel you want to drive, replace the black stone on the other side with a pulley or a direct connection to the shaft. I have a similar arbor at home, although it does have a pulley in the middle for a motor to drive it.
I assume the round shaft cover in the middle covers it all around??
Might it be open at the bottom for a belt coming up from underneath? Hard to say how it’s supposed to work with only the one view, but it’s clearly an arbor meant to be driven so there’s GOT to be some way of doing that…
Or is the ‘black ’stone’ just an old hard rubber wheel designed to take a flat belt? IF so it needs either shaping or replacing since a wheel like that should be slightly crowned. On Feb 14, 2025, at 8:29?AM, Jacques Savard via groups.io <jacquessavard@...> wrote:
A-
I ahve this? vintage? setup?
?
I put some? grinder? disk? put? tooo? large? for? my? normal? use?
?
I? put? al x6? to male a kind? of? wheel?
?
advise? is? it? good? or? a? bad? edeal
?
B-
someone? maybe? know? howto? drive? this? kind? of? wheel? system??
not? possible? to? dismentle?
?
have to? made? some? kond? of? drive? belt
?
advise? howto please
jack 47 71
?
?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Re: A new (and slightly off) topic
Generally, you never want to machine wood on metal lathes and mills.? This is the "common" advice.? It is true that there is a rather high risk of rust as wood, unlike metal chips, contains moisture.? Also, you tend to get some very fine dust that can be hard to clean out of everything.
That said, they are just machines with things twirling around and one might ask how is that different than a wood lathe or other woodworking machine with exposed metal.? Of course, in a metal lathe, or mill, there are a great many more nooks and crannies.
I have machined wood on the mini-lathe and mini-mill (but probably would try hard to avoid that on my larger lathe and mill) but first I wipe down the machine really well so there are no thick films or puddles of oil or anything.? And when done, IMMEDIATELY clean the machine and re-oil it.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Friday, February 14, 2025 at 04:35:01 AM PST, DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io <d.i.williams@...> wrote:
?Dear Gentlemen,
1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group.
2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group.
So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets.
So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? )
Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),?
David? Nr Oxford, UK.
On 13 Feb 2025, at 22:28, Bruce J via groups.io <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
? That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds. On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:23?PM, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote:
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. ?So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
|
|
A-
I ahve this? vintage? setup?
?
I put some? grinder? disk? put? tooo? large? for? my? normal? use?
?
I? put? al x6? to male a kind? of? wheel?
?
advise? is? it? good? or? a? bad? edeal
?
B-
someone? maybe? know? howto? drive? this? kind? of? wheel? system??
not? possible? to? dismentle?
?
have to? made? some? kond? of? drive? belt
?
advise? howto please
jack 47 71
?
?
|
Re: A new (and slightly off) topic
I have turned wood and Trex on my mini lathe. I have also machined wood and Trex on my mini mill. You are only limited by your imagination. Regards, John Mattis (retired mechanical engineer)
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 4:34?AM DAVID WILLIAMS via <d.i.williams= [email protected]> wrote:
?Dear Gentlemen,
1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group.
2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group.
So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets.
So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? )
Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),?
David? Nr Oxford, UK.
?That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds.
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe.? So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Re: A new (and slightly off) topic
Messy but certainly doable. Just consider you won't be getting a nice finish from machining. If that is required, then some sanding will be in order and there goes, at least, some of your desired accuracy On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 6:34?AM DAVID WILLIAMS via <d.i.williams= [email protected]> wrote:
?Dear Gentlemen,
1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group.
2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group.
So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets.
So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? )
Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),?
David? Nr Oxford, UK.
?That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds.
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe.? So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Re: A new (and slightly off) topic
Much to the horror of many, I have used both my mini-lathe & mini-mill to cut wood. ? Works fine. ? The only problem you’ll have is the sawdust sticks to the oil making it a bit hard to clean up.? I hear some distant grumbling about how it promotes rust.? Yeah maybe. ? Anyway, cover the metal as much as you can (use a plastic sheet, I use cling film) and set up a vacuum. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io
Sent: Friday, 14 February 2025 11:35 pm
To: [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] A new (and slightly off) topic? ?Dear Gentlemen, 1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group. 2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group. So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets. So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? ) Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),? ?That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:? It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor. Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds.
On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:23?PM, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote: ? Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. ?So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
? --?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism. ?
|
Re: Cutting with rotating cutter
Nice work @johannes!? I had built something similar to your lathe/mill attachment, but I see some details in your mod that I'm going to incorporate into mine.? I like the idea of the plinth block.? Like yours I had initially designed it for the lathe but moved the whole contraption over to the mill.
?
Thanks for sharing!
?
Jeff
|
A new (and slightly off) topic
?Dear Gentlemen,
1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group.
2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group.
So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets.
So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? )
Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),?
David? Nr Oxford, UK.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 13 Feb 2025, at 22:28, Bruce J via groups.io <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
? That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds. On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:23?PM, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote:
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. ?So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Re: Here list of charts & Tables
The first thing tested was my lathe bedways .?
?
I forgot to say the reason for small ball so test thiner materials.?
?
But out looking for materials a large ball is harder to lose. It happens a lot.?
?
So in shop a use 3/16"
Looking for materials I have a bag of ? low quality cheap balls.?
?
Dave?
|
Re: Here list of charts & Tables
Here is one on Hardness tester
I like because leave no marks on new parts.
?
Shows how built
?
?
This Closeup of the scale .
?
|
Cutting with rotating cutter
My picture disappeared someplace, so I send it again.
/johannes
Mexico
|
Re: Cutting with rotating cutter
After some hours setting?up the equipment , ready to do the new cutting with leadscrew, (Thanks to Roy,)? I did? something
XXXXXXX
Ok, so it is to be a lathe operator.
However, I tested it on something different , and I really liked the Leadscrew manual feeding.
I have made many disks with holes , many different setups,? and every time I think I have done the best.
Therefor is this lathe group being so interesting, a lot of new?ideas show up.
I needed to make a ratchet, 10 deg undercut, 60 teeth, so I first made the dividing disk,120 holes, in the lathe.
Moved it over to the Mill and did the job.?
(just remember to do the cutting on the correct side !!)
The picture shows the setup.
Johannes
Mexico
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds.
On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:23?PM, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote:
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank.
?
As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when
you need it and removed when you don’t.
?
??????????????? Ellis
?
?
?
I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. ?So no space for the crank.
However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Re: Milling Attachment on mini lathe
Great idea?
?
I am planing that?
I have? aluminum bar stock and bearings planing on putting a large dial on at same time.? The new cross feed screw is exta long so I can adjust for bearings.??
?
Dave?
?
?
?
?
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Re: Milling Attachment on mini lathe
Mill ATTACHMENT on workbench.?
?
Dave  
|
Re: Milling Attachment on mini lathe
Ya can smooth that thing up some by installing a thrust bearing
& washers under the dial .
animal
On 2/13/25 4:21 PM, davesmith1800
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I
am put a Milling Attachment on mini lathe that post photos
there milling attachment.?
?I
have a new copy of Tiag type milling attachment. From
Walmart.? Look how did on Littlemachineshop.com.? They
made it offset why?
?
I
have this since Nov 2023 from Amazon and just getting
around to installing on the lathe. I have look putting on
compound but that is unstable so going to put on the cross
slide like others have done on internet but it always
great even if bad.?
?
Dave?
?
FYI I
finished rotary table.?
Nice
light easy to use and setup.
?
?
?
?
?
?
e
Attachments:
|
Milling Attachment on mini lathe
I am put a Milling Attachment on mini lathe that post photos there milling attachment.?
?I have a new copy of Tiag type milling attachment. From Walmart.? Look how did on Littlemachineshop.com.? They made it offset why?
?
I have this since Nov 2023 from Amazon and just getting around to installing on the lathe. I have look putting on compound but that is unstable so going to put on the cross slide like others have done on internet but it always great even if bad.?
?
Dave?
?
FYI I finished rotary table.?
Nice light easy to use and setup.
?
?
?
?
?
?
e
|
Re: Cutting with rotating cutter
That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds. On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:23?PM, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote:
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. ?So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Re: Cutting with rotating cutter
Yes Ellis I have made many disk with holes, however they are not precise enough. So now I have 1502 x 2 steps to help me. 1/2 mm is also a step. Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
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Show quoted text
On 13 Feb 2025, at 15:23, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote:
? Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. ?So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
|
John Mattis
davesmith1800
Johannes
