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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
开云体育
Hi Paul and other for feedback.
My Jupiter 1 pencil sharpener has only a cut edge on one side. I think another model has on both sides.
As I have measured it, I think all screws are in inches, the cutting axle is in Left Hand 1/2-20.
A technical question: is -20 tpi a UNF or UNC? ?
I asked you about this inch system . As I understand, there have always been 12 inches in one foot.
However, the length of a foot has varied during time and country. Hamburg, as city, had their own length of a foot long time ago.
Pls correct me.
Pencil wood: I tested my sharpener with both BIC and STAEDTLER, both HB, however, the cutoff stuff was big differently.
One looks like wood. The other was some generic or composite wood.
But the pencils became sharp.
I saw in EBay? an original sparepart cutting disk: EUR 150
I have taken a lot of pictures: maybe I will make a short view in YouTube ?
Johannes Lavoll
Mexico
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of paul mcclintic via groups.io <cannontandem@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2024 5:11 AM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener ?
The cutter was designed so you can flip it over when one side is dull. Are you going to do something different on the other side? Did you ever find out what kind of threads the missing screws where? I liked your idea of using a slightly oversized dowel
threaded into the hole to find the pitch of the thread. Paul M
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
Most pencils are made of cedar - here's a link with more details:
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Cedar being a relatively soft wood, you may need to make the cutter sharper than an end mill leaves it. From my woodworking experience, a little hand honing can work wonders. You can probably reduce honing time by cheating a bit by honing at a slightly different angle, creating a small honed surface at the tip of the milled surface.
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Roy |
Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
The cutter was designed so you can flip it over when one side is dull. Are you going to do something different on the other side? Did you ever find out what kind of threads the missing screws where? I liked your idea of using a slightly oversized dowel threaded into the hole to find the pitch of the thread. Paul M |
Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
开云体育
Hi Roy
I did what you told me.
After a lot of pictures and Trigonometry?calculation, I decided to make the fine cut 30 deg. in my mill.
A set up in a homemade jig and I did the fine cut.
The result was very good.?
Then I discovered the pencils use different type of wood.
Johannes Lavoll
Mexico
From:[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...>
Sent:?Tuesday, July 30, 2024 5:28 PM To:[email protected] <[email protected]> Subject:?Re: [7x12MiniLathe] "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel ?
Yup! By sharpening the B face, you'll restore the chip clearance that's been abraded away from normal wear.
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It'd probably be worth the nuisance of making some type of guide to keep the same relief angle on all the teeth.
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Roy
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Re: Hand-sharpening drill bits
开云体育Hi Mike, no, there aren't. I designed it with sketchup regarding the basic
Gadgetbuilder's idea, with the experience I got from the CNC that
I designed some years ago from the scratch, and using what I had
in my stock plus some parts I bought on the net. The base and the feet are parts of an very old steel chassis (the hammered style paint successfully masking the rust pits !), the motor has a three-phase winding plugged on the home grid, with a capacitor recreating the 3rd phase. All the 2017 plates were scraps bought on the net. The rails and the diamond wheel come from Aliexpress. The rubber dust protections were donated by a retired shoemaker ! It was more difficult to find materials at a reasonable price
than designing the grinder ! On 10.08.24 02:39, mike allen via
groups.io wrote:
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Re: Hand-sharpening drill bits
开云体育Tha'ts one sweet lookin unit ! Are there any drawing around for it somewhere ? thanks animal On 8/9/24 3:27 AM, Pierre-Raymond
Rondelle via groups.io wrote:
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Re: Hand-sharpening drill bits
Your rendition looks pretty nice, congratulations!?
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I haven't seen a version that uses a rack & pinion to get the transverse motion, yet another interesting variation.? As I mentioned earlier, there are many ways to get the same end result -- as long as the presentation of the drill bit to the grinder has the proper geometry.
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Mark |
Re: Hand-sharpening drill bits
开云体育Here's my variant: This grinder, with its large table is going to be extended for lathe tool processing. Some holes are to be added to the plate as well as a vise for gripping the shafts. Note the table displacement : a rack made with an M14 bolt cut in the middle and a wheel machined with an M14 tap as a hobbing cutter. Currently, I'm building a Quorn variant. The Gadgetbuilder's design is not easy to adapt for grinding milling cutters and I was in a hurry to get my drill bits correctly ground. On 07.08.24 18:35, Mark Kimball via
groups.io wrote:
[...] |
Re: Slightly off topic, How to set tapered roller bearing preload
Unless the lathe has had a bearing upgrade, it comes with deep groove ball bearings, not tapered roller bearings. In either case, bearing preload does have to be set. Here's the SKF document, a Google search will turn up others that (to me) are less lucid.
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Replacing the original bearings with tapered roller bearings simultaneously replaces sealed bearings with open (unsealed or shielded) bearings, requiring some type of external shield to be added to keep foreign matter out of the bearings. Replacing the original bearings with angular contact ball bearings lets you stay with sealed bearings that are a little less rigid than tapered roller bearings, but, still an upgrade from original. I did mine years ago & have been happy with the improvement.
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Roy |
Re: Slightly off topic, How to set tapered roller bearing preload
One of the great virtues of tapered roller bearings is stiffness. This is important in a lathe as you need to have the headstock remain in place under load. The greater the preload the stiffer the system but also the greater the friction and the lower the load capacity. The instructions for my Atlas 12" tell you to tighten to a moderate load and run for 30 minutes unloaded. The bearing housing?should get warm but not hot!should On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 9:48?AM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: Slightly off topic, How to set tapered roller bearing preload
If adjusting a mini lathe spindle bearings it on subject.?
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FYI Some locations the taper roller bearings do not need per load.
They need a little room to grow as it heats up.? Typically it is 0.000,5 to 0.002"?
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Dave?
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On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 01:53 AM, Jon Rus wrote:
This is one way to lube and pre-load, tapered roller bearings -- via YouTube |
Re: Hand-sharpening drill bits
since vevor goes up to 13mm bits, that would be the top end for ER20 collets. On the larger machine (MRG-20 - link below) on the comments I found vevor answering the collet size question with "
3-13 is ER20, and 14-20 is ER25" Regular ER25 don't go that high and if you look at that product, the collets are non-standard) So vevor and grizzly both use ER20 collets. It is possible that the guts of both machines are the same, with the grizzly having the right side rotated 90 degrees from the vevor. On Wed, Aug 7, 2024 at 9:35?AM Mark Kimball via <markkimball51=[email protected]> wrote:
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Buffalo John |
Re: Hand-sharpening drill bits
I've thought about building a version of gadgetbuilder's 4-facet sharpener (to be found ) but for now have decided to see how the Vevor does.? That vendor can be a mixed bag in terms of quality so it's a bit of a gamble on my part.? I should know soon, I just got a notification that it will arrive sometime between now and 8/12.? Hopefully in one piece.
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The Grizzly version uses ER20 collets but it remains to be seen if the Vevor does.? I didn't see any specifics in their product literature.
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Gadgetbuilder's design has been built by quite a few other folks, including one version that uses mostly 3D printed parts.? Lots of interesting variations, the main thing is to achieve the right geometry for the profile(s) you want.? IIRC, some folks have built adapters for it so they can sharpen end mills.? Probably just the bottom face, that's the easiest to sharpen.
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Re: Hand-sharpening drill bits
Having a hard bolt break off in an automotive chassis application I knew it would be a problem. After making a guide bushing and clamping it in place I resharpened a masonry?drill left?handed. Running te drill in reverse and guided by the bushing I drilled through the bolt until?it grabbed and unscrewed the remains. Other methods have led to disasters! On Tue, Aug 6, 2024 at 12:35?PM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote:
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