开云体育

John,
You must be thinking of Edelstaal. I'm sure that's the right spelling.
They sold Unimats / Maximats for Emco I believe, so that may be your Austrian connection. Although I don't think Edelstaal was an Austrian company --- they sold machines from other countries too. For example, Reliable Tool was recently selling an Italian lathe by Pedretti that had the Edelstaal name on it.
B Flint

Roy,
Strange, I am a Regional Planner for Telecommunications, I used to teach it at university. The last few years, we did not have pencils and paper, we had computers. So you have the knowledge to say "what kind of idiot designed this?" :->

Jerry

I'm trying to run down a connection to a combination machine from
some time back. It was a mill drill lathe from Austria , I believe.
It was called an Edelstadt but I cant get the spelling right to find
it . Couple of extra vowels in there somewhere – they forgot to
change it into inches or English or something. Any suggestions?

Thanks

John O
Seattle

Jerry,
I actually can be considered to be a design engineer - I'm one of
the rare MEs that had lots of shop experience before getting a
degree. I'm also one of the rare MEs that can handle sharp, pointy
objects without hurting himself :-)
The tools that are always on a corner of the bench, to handle
anything, include: an 8oz brass hammer, a utility knife, a 3/16" flat
screwdriver, a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a pair of electricians
scissors and a ratty 1/8" screwdriver/prybar/chisel.
Inertial bullet pullers are cool - they work perfectly and look
like a disaster-in-progress.
Gaah, I'm not bad mouthing hammers or their users - I happily use
them. What I am bad-mouthing is the use of hammers where a screw
would be a better choice! Let's not fall into the trap of thinking
everything looks like a nail, because the only tool we own is a
hammer!
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

Roy,
Hammer alignment is such a wonderful things, but design

engineers

never seem to have to adjust or fix anything they design. The first

time I

took a hammer to a piece of shop equipment with some friends over,

they

thought I was going to destroy my drill press. One have tap and it

was

where I wanted it to be. Since then I have added a mill type table

to the

drill press and X-Y type of drill press vise, but not at the same

time for

usage.
The first time I used an inertia bullet extractor around

one of my

friends, they thought it was going to go off and with a big bang.

These are

the type that look like a hammer. It has a collet that hold the rim

of the

case, you whack the floor with it and the bullet pops out of the

case.

Hammers can be your friend!

Jerry

At 04:23 AM 12/17/2002 +0000, you wrote:

Jerry,
I wasn't impugning hammers or hammer craftsmen - I was

impugning

the lathe designer(s) who didn't include jackscrews for motor
alignment. Tapping or prying something into alignment is

needlessly

slow when pattern draft forces it out alignment when the hold-down
bolts are fully tightened.
I've got a moderate collection of them, and can't imagine

working

without them.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

Ken and Roy,
The art and the talent for using a hammer to align

something has

Roy,
Hammer alignment is such a wonderful things, but design engineers never seem to have to adjust or fix anything they design. The first time I took a hammer to a piece of shop equipment with some friends over, they thought I was going to destroy my drill press. One have tap and it was where I wanted it to be. Since then I have added a mill type table to the drill press and X-Y type of drill press vise, but not at the same time for usage.
The first time I used an inertia bullet extractor around one of my friends, they thought it was going to go off and with a big bang. These are the type that look like a hammer. It has a collet that hold the rim of the case, you whack the floor with it and the bullet pops out of the case.
Hammers can be your friend!

Jerry

Jerry,
I wasn't impugning hammers or hammer craftsmen - I was impugning
the lathe designer(s) who didn't include jackscrews for motor
alignment. Tapping or prying something into alignment is needlessly
slow when pattern draft forces it out alignment when the hold-down
bolts are fully tightened.
I've got a moderate collection of them, and can't imagine working
without them.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

Ken and Roy,
The art and the talent for using a hammer to align

something has

been around for many years. I have 60 plus hammers in my shop.

Everything

from a 4 ounce inertia hammer to 12 pound sledge hammer. Some times

I have

to make a tool or jig to guide the energy, but it does work.
As that I come from the blacksmithing side of the world, I

view

things differently. A light tap can do wonders, measuring the

energy of the

tap is difficult, measuring the results is easy.
But I never had any luck with pry bars, I seem to not have

the

touch for that kind of work, I generally break things in doing that

kind of

process.

Jerry

At 04:23 AM 12/16/2002 +0000, you wrote:

Ken,
I do believe. I spent hours and hours, over several

frustrating

days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The
only thing I hate more than pry bar adjustments is hammer
adjustments :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby

Please see for all of the details and many
pictures. Email me privately with any questions.

Thanks,
Jamie Harris

Hi Jerry,
I have no problems at all with hammers, as I too have many of them,
about half of them of the panel beating kind plus big ones and tiny
ones including a copper one and a rubber one. I used to do a lot of
panel beating with my motor racing (:o( But even parts of a lathe can
take a copper or rubber hammer in the right hands. I also used to
build model ships up to 4 feet long from brass sheet.
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

Ken and Roy,
The art and the talent for using a hammer to align

something has

been around for many years. I have 60 plus hammers in my shop.

Everything

from a 4 ounce inertia hammer to 12 pound sledge hammer. Some times

I have

to make a tool or jig to guide the energy, but it does work.
As that I come from the blacksmithing side of the world, I

view

things differently. A light tap can do wonders, measuring the

energy of the

tap is difficult, measuring the results is easy.
But I never had any luck with pry bars, I seem to not have

the

touch for that kind of work, I generally break things in doing that

kind of

process.

Jerry

At 04:23 AM 12/16/2002 +0000, you wrote:

Ken,
I do believe. I spent hours and hours, over several

frustrating

days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The
only thing I hate more than pry bar adjustments is hammer
adjustments :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby

Ken and Roy,
The art and the talent for using a hammer to align something has been around for many years. I have 60 plus hammers in my shop. Everything from a 4 ounce inertia hammer to 12 pound sledge hammer. Some times I have to make a tool or jig to guide the energy, but it does work.
As that I come from the blacksmithing side of the world, I view things differently. A light tap can do wonders, measuring the energy of the tap is difficult, measuring the results is easy.
But I never had any luck with pry bars, I seem to not have the touch for that kind of work, I generally break things in doing that kind of process.

Jerry

Ken,
I do believe. I spent hours and hours, over several frustrating
days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The
only thing I hate more than pry bar adjustments is hammer
adjustments :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby
<captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi Roy,
It WAS the motor out of alignment,but such a tiny amount you wold
hardly credit!!

The new brass cross slide nut and gibs fitted and it is great now
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

Ken,
The belt always going to the same side sounds like the motor

shaft

is

not exactly parallel to the countershaft. On the 7x10 group,

J.W.

Early posted a hinged motor mount mod. that makes alignment

easier.

IIRC, it was within the last month or so.

Roy
(A USN type who was simultaneously "Special Sea & Anchor Detail

OOD"

and Engineer on a DDG. The book said I had to be 2 different

places

at once; the CO liked my "vectory at sea" shiphandling & believed

my

snipes were as competent as I claimed!)
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt. Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi Roy,
That certainly is a comprehensive web site. Thanks for pointing

me

to it!

My belt doesn't 'walk' really . I centre it and by the time its

done a half

turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there,

whether

you

reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when

I

get some

spares to try.
Regards,
Ken
[A Navy 'Fresh Air' type, - away from the engine room fumes(;o)

ER

Chiefs

could never understand me - a deck type who built racing

engines -

A very

strange animal indeed!]
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
|<|):o)=|>????|..|.................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;

From: "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 05:30:43 -0000

_________________________________________________________________

MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,
I have ordered a Milling Slide and table from Chronos. Has anyone
else fitted one and did you have to do much to get it to fit?

It looks a bit different to the "Little Machine Shop" one??
regards
Ken

Hi Roy,
It WAS the motor out of alignment,but such a tiny amount you wold
hardly credit!!

The new brass cross slide nut and gibs fitted and it is great now
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

Ken,
The belt always going to the same side sounds like the motor shaft

is

not exactly parallel to the countershaft. On the 7x10 group, J.W.
Early posted a hinged motor mount mod. that makes alignment

easier.

IIRC, it was within the last month or so.

Roy
(A USN type who was simultaneously "Special Sea & Anchor Detail

OOD"

and Engineer on a DDG. The book said I had to be 2 different

places

at once; the CO liked my "vectory at sea" shiphandling & believed

my

snipes were as competent as I claimed!)
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt. Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi Roy,
That certainly is a comprehensive web site. Thanks for pointing

me

to it!

My belt doesn't 'walk' really . I centre it and by the time its

done a half

turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there,

whether

you

reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when I

get some

spares to try.
Regards,
Ken
[A Navy 'Fresh Air' type, - away from the engine room fumes(;o)

ER

Chiefs

could never understand me - a deck type who built racing engines -

A very

strange animal indeed!]
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
|<|):o)=|>????|..|.................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;

From: "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 05:30:43 -0000

_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Nick,

Yup this is pretty vexing 20 thou of taper is a lot. What is the lenght
of the piece the taper is over. Did you do the facing cut with the
compound screw or the cross slide screw?

Do you have a nice long piece of drill rod 1/2" x 8 or better? If so
chuck it in the 3 jaw and with a dial indicator mounted on the
carriage and touching the front side of the rod, does it turn close to
true? By resetting it in the chuck by slowly turning it while you
tighten the jaws you should be able to get it to less than .003" out of
round. Now slowly move the carriage to the tailstock end. Which
way does the dial indicator move and by how much? Now rotate the
chuck and how much out of round does it indicate?

I can see the taper being different depending on how you chuck
the stock, but all the same?????? When making the cut how did
you move the cutter? With the compound screw, the carriage
handwheel or use the power feed from lead screw?


Did you check the alignment of the centers by putting centers in
both head and tail stocks then move the tail stock up to the head
stock and then gently pich a piec of 5 thou feeler stock or similar
between the points of the centers. The shim should hang vertically
between the centers and be at right angles to the bed. Any twist or
lean indicates the centers aren't centered. A left lean is the tailstock
is high, a right lean is the tailstock is low. etc.

.
Bob




On 11 Dec 2002, at 9:54, Nick DeFeo wrote:

Roy:
The spindle shows fore/aft of .0005" difference. There is basically no runout of the face of the spindle when in motion. All gibs for the carriage, compound, and cross slide are adjusted with minimal play. I have not locked down the gibs on the compound/cross slide when taking these facing

cuts. Taking a face cut at the hs, shows no concave/convex, which leads me to believe the hs/compound alignment is true. This lathe cuts a .020" taper from the ts to the hs, no matter the method of securing the stock; 3 jaw, unsupported at ts, 3 jaw, live center at ts, dead center, live center at
ts. Pretty vexing situation. I have spent considerable effort and material in an attempt to get the lathe fairly accurate, and am convinced that it is time to swap this unit with a replacement. Perhaps there is something minor I am overlooking? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: What does a cross slide mounted indicator show when the front &
rear of the spindle are checked? It sounds like the HS is not
parallel to the ways, easiest measurement is spindle parallelism to
cross slide.
How much spindle run out is there?
Have you tried a test cut with the cross & compound gibs locked
down? Your chatter complaint makes me suspect one or both of them
may be moving during a cut.
Quick check for bed mounting distortion is to loosen the bolts &
try to rock the lathe; if it rocks, use feeler gauges or indicator to
determine the shim thickness for the non-contacting foot.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Morning Bob:
Here is what I have so far: Stock is 3/4" 12L14, HSS 3/8"

cutting tool - sharpened & honed, 3 jaw on hs and live center in ts.
With stock either chucked or supported by ts, I have indicated top
and rear of stock and corrected alignment using shims between the bed
and bench. Bolts are snug, but not tight to permit adjustment if
required. Whether the stock is held with just the 3 jaw, or supported
with the ts, the lathe still cuts a taper towards the hs in the
neighborhood of .02". I am using a Starret square base to level the
unit fore/aft and side to side. All readings using the level are dead
center, with no parallax error (all readings taken from top dead
looking down at the vial). Should I invest in a more precise level to
ensure these reading are true? I have checked for alignment at the
hs, center of the bed and ts areas. While it has been several years
since I have used a lathe, am I overlooking something minor here? All
carriage and compound gibs are properly adjusted and lubricated.
While cutting, I have used several fluids with the same results:
WD40, 10W oil with STP, and even kerosene. Are these lathes that far
out of alignment from the factory, or is this due to
shipping/handling? There was no damage to the carton or the lathe
when received, and I wonder if this unit should be returned for a new
one. While I am not opposed to making corrections/adjustments to get
acceptable results, this has been quite perplexing, to say the least.
Best regards, Nick

Bob Sunley <rosunley@s...> wrote:Check list time:

What are you cutting, type of metal/plastic, diameter and length.

How is it chucked, 3 jaw, 4jaw, between centers or combination.

Type of cutter, hss, carbide, a u-grind or factory insert.

Speed setting, power or manual feed.

Chattering and cutting tapers are two totally different problems.
Which do you want to fix first.

Cutting tapers can indicate a warped bed or tailstock not set
properly depending on how you are holding the workpiece.
which way is the taper?


Chattering can be any number of problems, wrong/no cutting lube,
wrong feed rate, tool height set wrong, wrong type of tool, too

fine a

cut, too agressive a cut, assorted gibs not adjusted properly, etc.
etc, etc.

Solidly mounting the lathe can cause tapered cuts as well if it

warps

the lathe bed

Need lots more info on exactly what you are doing.

Bob


On 9 Dec 2002, at 21:23, ntdefeo ntdefeo@y... wrote:

After setting and checking my Homier 7X12 lathe 9 ways to sunday,

I

am still turning tapers! As carriage is advancing towards the hs
assembly, the hs cutting tool starts to chatter, no matter what
adjustments are made. Is it possible that the bed it bowed/warped

in

such a manner that this machine should just be returned for a new
unit? I have never run up against such a perplexing problem. All
adjustments have been checked and rechecked for accuracy. Unit is
solidly mounted on a bench. Has anyone else run across this

problem?

Any comments? suggestions? short of heaving it into the trash?


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Nick,
Did you do your facing cut by moving the compound or the cross
slide?
Taper when turning between centers is indicative of tailstock
offset, tedious to eliminate on the 7xX lathes with their Achilles
tailstock.
You need a test bar for troubleshooting. If you don't have a
known straight, smooth bar, adjust the tailstock to turn one between
centers. Once you've got one, chuck it up and see what your
indicator shows.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
The spindle shows fore/aft of .0005" difference. There is

basically no runout of the face of the spindle when in motion. All
gibs for the carriage, compound, and cross slide are adjusted with
minimal play. I have not locked down the gibs on the compound/cross
slide when taking these facing cuts. Taking a face cut at the hs,
shows no concave/convex, which leads me to believe the hs/compound
alignment is true. This lathe cuts a .020" taper from the ts to the
hs, no matter the method of securing the stock; 3 jaw, unsupported at
ts, 3 jaw, live center at ts, dead center, live center at ts. Pretty
vexing situation. I have spent considerable effort and material in an
attempt to get the lathe fairly accurate, and am convinced that it is
time to swap this unit with a replacement. Perhaps there is something
minor I am overlooking? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Nick

SNIP

Roy:
The spindle shows fore/aft of .0005" difference. There is basically no runout of the face of the spindle when in motion. All gibs for the carriage, compound, and cross slide are adjusted with minimal play. I have not locked down the gibs on the compound/cross slide when taking these facing cuts. Taking a face cut at the hs, shows no concave/convex, which leads me to believe the hs/compound alignment is true. This lathe cuts a .020" taper from the ts to the hs, no matter the method of securing the stock; 3 jaw, unsupported at ts, 3 jaw, live center at ts, dead center, live center at ts. Pretty vexing situation. I have spent considerable effort and material in an attempt to get the lathe fairly accurate, and am convinced that it is time to swap this unit with a replacement. Perhaps there is something minor I am overlooking? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: What does a cross slide mounted indicator show when the front &
rear of the spindle are checked? It sounds like the HS is not
parallel to the ways, easiest measurement is spindle parallelism to
cross slide.
How much spindle run out is there?
Have you tried a test cut with the cross & compound gibs locked
down? Your chatter complaint makes me suspect one or both of them
may be moving during a cut.
Quick check for bed mounting distortion is to loosen the bolts &
try to rock the lathe; if it rocks, use feeler gauges or indicator to
determine the shim thickness for the non-contacting foot.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Morning Bob:
Here is what I have so far: Stock is 3/4" 12L14, HSS 3/8"

cutting tool - sharpened & honed, 3 jaw on hs and live center in ts.
With stock either chucked or supported by ts, I have indicated top
and rear of stock and corrected alignment using shims between the bed
and bench. Bolts are snug, but not tight to permit adjustment if
required. Whether the stock is held with just the 3 jaw, or supported
with the ts, the lathe still cuts a taper towards the hs in the
neighborhood of .02". I am using a Starret square base to level the
unit fore/aft and side to side. All readings using the level are dead
center, with no parallax error (all readings taken from top dead
looking down at the vial). Should I invest in a more precise level to
ensure these reading are true? I have checked for alignment at the
hs, center of the bed and ts areas. While it has been several years
since I have used a lathe, am I overlooking something minor here? All
carriage and compound gibs are properly adjusted and lubricated.
While cutting, I have used several fluids with the same results:
WD40, 10W oil with STP, and even kerosene. Are these lathes that far
out of alignment from the factory, or is this due to
shipping/handling? There was no damage to the carton or the lathe
when received, and I wonder if this unit should be returned for a new
one. While I am not opposed to making corrections/adjustments to get
acceptable results, this has been quite perplexing, to say the least.
Best regards, Nick

Bob Sunley <rosunley@s...> wrote:Check list time:

What are you cutting, type of metal/plastic, diameter and length.

How is it chucked, 3 jaw, 4jaw, between centers or combination.

Type of cutter, hss, carbide, a u-grind or factory insert.

Speed setting, power or manual feed.

Chattering and cutting tapers are two totally different problems.
Which do you want to fix first.

Cutting tapers can indicate a warped bed or tailstock not set
properly depending on how you are holding the workpiece.
which way is the taper?


Chattering can be any number of problems, wrong/no cutting lube,
wrong feed rate, tool height set wrong, wrong type of tool, too

fine a

cut, too agressive a cut, assorted gibs not adjusted properly, etc.
etc, etc.

Solidly mounting the lathe can cause tapered cuts as well if it

warps

the lathe bed

Need lots more info on exactly what you are doing.

Bob


On 9 Dec 2002, at 21:23, ntdefeo ntdefeo@y... wrote:

After setting and checking my Homier 7X12 lathe 9 ways to sunday,

I

am still turning tapers! As carriage is advancing towards the hs
assembly, the hs cutting tool starts to chatter, no matter what
adjustments are made. Is it possible that the bed it bowed/warped

in

such a manner that this machine should just be returned for a new
unit? I have never run up against such a perplexing problem. All
adjustments have been checked and rechecked for accuracy. Unit is
solidly mounted on a bench. Has anyone else run across this

problem?

Any comments? suggestions? short of heaving it into the trash?


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Hi Bob:

I've never seen a bb lathe but I understand that there seems to be
some small quality changes that make it somewhat better than the
usual 7 x 12. In fact I remember someone saying they had metal
change gears...

Here's a web site that has two basic programs that tabulate gear
strings for different threads including metric. One is Visual Basic
but the one I use is the old qbasic version. Both do the same thing.
It tells you the % error too. The program shows an error of .06% for
the two most common gear strings for .75mm. You can play with these
and see the effect on accuracy of having a 21 tooth gear.

http:www.cctrap.com/~varmint/alath.htm

I've made many changes on my lathe mostly for fun...It worked perfect
right out of the box.

Mike in Cranbrook B.C.






--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "sawadeee2 <bomo@s...>"
<bomo@s...> wrote:

Hi folks,

I've been flirting with the idea of a benchtop lathe for some time,
and it would be used mostly for photo/telescope adapters and parts.
Most of these do-hickies max out at about 2.5" diam. and a few

inches

long, and many would be threaded at .75mm pitch, various diameters.

Here in Canada, BusyBee is the equivalent to Grizzly et. al. Same
machines, different label. So....these are a couple of things I'm
wondering about:
What is the largest diameter stock I can chuck into the chuck? 3"?

2"?

I know the thread range is something like .05 - 2.0 mm, but what

are

the steps? Or to cut to the chase; can I cut .75mm threads?
On a more general level, how do you folks find the quality of the
small lathes? Is a lot of tweaking and modifying required, or do

they

work quite well out of the box?

Thanks,

Bob

Bob, you will find the answers to most of your
questions at my web site, mini-lathe.com

Frank Hoose


--- "sawadeee2 <bomo@...>"
<bomo@...> wrote:

Hi folks,

I've been flirting with the idea of a benchtop lathe
for some time,
and it would be used mostly for photo/telescope
adapters and parts.
Most of these do-hickies max out at about 2.5" diam.
and a few inches
long, and many would be threaded at .75mm pitch,
various diameters.

Here in Canada, BusyBee is the equivalent to Grizzly
et. al. Same
machines, different label. So....these are a couple
of things I'm
wondering about:
What is the largest diameter stock I can chuck into
the chuck? 3"? 2"?
I know the thread range is something like .05 - 2.0
mm, but what are
the steps? Or to cut to the chase; can I cut .75mm
threads?
On a more general level, how do you folks find the
quality of the
small lathes? Is a lot of tweaking and modifying
required, or do they
work quite well out of the box?

Thanks,

Bob



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What does a cross slide mounted indicator show when the front &
rear of the spindle are checked? It sounds like the HS is not
parallel to the ways, easiest measurement is spindle parallelism to
cross slide.
How much spindle run out is there?
Have you tried a test cut with the cross & compound gibs locked
down? Your chatter complaint makes me suspect one or both of them
may be moving during a cut.
Quick check for bed mounting distortion is to loosen the bolts &
try to rock the lathe; if it rocks, use feeler gauges or indicator to
determine the shim thickness for the non-contacting foot.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Morning Bob:
Here is what I have so far: Stock is 3/4" 12L14, HSS 3/8"

cutting tool - sharpened & honed, 3 jaw on hs and live center in ts.
With stock either chucked or supported by ts, I have indicated top
and rear of stock and corrected alignment using shims between the bed
and bench. Bolts are snug, but not tight to permit adjustment if
required. Whether the stock is held with just the 3 jaw, or supported
with the ts, the lathe still cuts a taper towards the hs in the
neighborhood of .02". I am using a Starret square base to level the
unit fore/aft and side to side. All readings using the level are dead
center, with no parallax error (all readings taken from top dead
looking down at the vial). Should I invest in a more precise level to
ensure these reading are true? I have checked for alignment at the
hs, center of the bed and ts areas. While it has been several years
since I have used a lathe, am I overlooking something minor here? All
carriage and compound gibs are properly adjusted and lubricated.
While cutting, I have used several fluids with the same results:
WD40, 10W oil with STP, and even kerosene. Are these lathes that far
out of alignment from the factory, or is this due to
shipping/handling? There was no damage to the carton or the lathe
when received, and I wonder if this unit should be returned for a new
one. While I am not opposed to making corrections/adjustments to get
acceptable results, this has been quite perplexing, to say the least.
Best regards, Nick

Bob Sunley <rosunley@s...> wrote:Check list time:

What are you cutting, type of metal/plastic, diameter and length.

How is it chucked, 3 jaw, 4jaw, between centers or combination.

Type of cutter, hss, carbide, a u-grind or factory insert.

Speed setting, power or manual feed.

Chattering and cutting tapers are two totally different problems.
Which do you want to fix first.

Cutting tapers can indicate a warped bed or tailstock not set
properly depending on how you are holding the workpiece.
which way is the taper?


Chattering can be any number of problems, wrong/no cutting lube,
wrong feed rate, tool height set wrong, wrong type of tool, too

fine a

cut, too agressive a cut, assorted gibs not adjusted properly, etc.
etc, etc.

Solidly mounting the lathe can cause tapered cuts as well if it

warps

the lathe bed

Need lots more info on exactly what you are doing.

Bob


On 9 Dec 2002, at 21:23, ntdefeo ntdefeo@y... wrote:

After setting and checking my Homier 7X12 lathe 9 ways to sunday,

I

am still turning tapers! As carriage is advancing towards the hs
assembly, the hs cutting tool starts to chatter, no matter what
adjustments are made. Is it possible that the bed it bowed/warped

in

such a manner that this machine should just be returned for a new
unit? I have never run up against such a perplexing problem. All
adjustments have been checked and rechecked for accuracy. Unit is
solidly mounted on a bench. Has anyone else run across this

problem?

Any comments? suggestions? short of heaving it into the trash?


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Bob,
Where in Canada are you?

Jerry

Hi folks,

I've been flirting with the idea of a benchtop lathe for some time,
and it would be used mostly for photo/telescope adapters and parts.
Most of these do-hickies max out at about 2.5" diam. and a few inches
long, and many would be threaded at .75mm pitch, various diameters.

Here in Canada, BusyBee is the equivalent to Grizzly et. al. Same
machines, different label. So....these are a couple of things I'm
wondering about:
What is the largest diameter stock I can chuck into the chuck? 3"? 2"?
I know the thread range is something like .05 - 2.0 mm, but what are
the steps? Or to cut to the chase; can I cut .75mm threads?
On a more general level, how do you folks find the quality of the
small lathes? Is a lot of tweaking and modifying required, or do they
work quite well out of the box?

Thanks,

Bob