开云体育

Vikki, I bought it and was not very pleased. As you saw, I could
never get it to the right height. Plus the tool rest was not rigidly
attached to the round bar portion of the post which controls
elevation. My first attempt was to fabricate a wooden block to fit
on the top and inside of the tool rest and tapped the rest and that
fixed the height problem. The rest still jumped around in use so I
drilled lengthwise from top to bottom through the rest and the post
and inserted a machine screw ( with the nut on the bottom ) and that
worked to make it more rigid. I grew unhappy with the way the rest
attached to the tool post and ended up making a very simple board
that clamps to the ways and mounted the tool post in that. I am not
sure what you are asking when you asked about thread on the center.
Good luck with your mods.








--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

I ordered the wood turning tool rest kit from LMS (we'll avoid
mentioning the nightmare getting it from UPS):

ProductID=1685&category=

Granted, wood turning is new to me and I *am* fairly clueless, but

it

seems that the actual tool rest itself won't go up to more than

about

.425 below spindle center without the post wobbling. From all I

have

read so far, I want this on spindle center to do scraping before I

do

other things to learn and be less dangerous.



Not sure if I need to either shim up the toolpost or make up a
replacement pin for the tool rest itself to get near spindle center?

Also, anyone know what the thread on the center that comes with it

is?

Not planning on doing a lot of wood stuff with the lathe, but in the
process of making "simple syrup" I ended up with rock candy and

broke

the honey "spoon" and wanted to make a replacement myself :-).

Seemed

like an handy thing to have in case I do want to make anything out

of

wood.

Any thoughts appreciated!

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

As others have pointed out this really doesn't seem out of the norm.
Remember what might seem hot to us is just getting warmed up for
electronics. Hot water at about 130F can burn skin yet most
electronics are capable of running just fine up to 185F or higher. I
had a motor once that was thermally kicking off to save itself and
that thing was HOT!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "druid_noibn" <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi All,

For those who might find it "interesting" – I noticed the motor of
the HF 8x12-14 was a tad warm and thought a check was in order.

With a motor and ambient temp of 65F the lathe was turned on – no
metal turning. The probe was located on the upper part of the motor
housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes – temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes – 49.7F;
46 minutes – 58.1F;
63 minutes – 63F – shut-down motor
66 minutes – 65.7F

I didn't run the motor unloaded yet.

So the motor runs hot - an auxiliary fan might be in order.

Take care,
DBN

I ordered the wood turning tool rest kit from LMS (we'll avoid
mentioning the nightmare getting it from UPS):



Granted, wood turning is new to me and I *am* fairly clueless, but it
seems that the actual tool rest itself won't go up to more than about
.425 below spindle center without the post wobbling. From all I have
read so far, I want this on spindle center to do scraping before I do
other things to learn and be less dangerous.



Not sure if I need to either shim up the toolpost or make up a
replacement pin for the tool rest itself to get near spindle center?

Also, anyone know what the thread on the center that comes with it is?

Not planning on doing a lot of wood stuff with the lathe, but in the
process of making "simple syrup" I ended up with rock candy and broke
the honey "spoon" and wanted to make a replacement myself :-). Seemed
like an handy thing to have in case I do want to make anything out of
wood.

Any thoughts appreciated!

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

Hi Ian,

The motor runs fine, just a bit hot which appears "normal" for this motor. All the connections are fine.

When I worked in a Standards Lab we would do these measures, but I'll leave that for a future project (not really...<smile>).

Thanks,
DBN

steam4ian <fosterscons@...> wrote:
G'day DBN & Mike.
The temperatures you have recorded do not seem unduely high. You need
to remember that the insulation is most likely rated for 90 degC.
(161 degF) temperture rise, this is typical of modern electrical
materials.
First question. Does the motor pass the smell test? There may be a
sweet oily solvent smell, thats normal, but an acidic or acrid smell
indicates trouble.
Question 2: Do the terminals get hotter than the rating of the
connecting cable insulation? The connecting cables with PVC
insulation generally have a temperature rating of at least 75 deg.C.
After extended running and with the motor disconnected at the wall
outlet, measure the terminal temperature (you can get temperature
marker crayons but a finger will do). Note, higher temperature rated
cables are often used for machinery wiring, often rated to 110 deg.C;
this grade of wire is used in fluorescent luminaires.

The only reliable winding temperature measurement is to measure the
winding resistances when cold and hot and compute the temperature
difference. Handbook type advice would generally assume this means of
measurement.

I would suggest that if the motor does not smell bad, the terminal
temperature is less then the connecting cables insulation temperature
limits and the surface temperature of the motor case does not create
a fire hazard then all is well.

Always keep flammable materials, dusts and fluff away from the motor
and ensure the air flow is unrestricted. Then if the motor does give
up you only have to replace the motor not your house. This is good
advice for any electrical equipment!!

One good turn deserves another
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi Mike,

I have a handbook and will look at it later.

I would gather it has more to do with the classification of the

motor. I've worked on a few motors and drive systems over the last
40 years or so and these run a tad hot. Of course, they "might" be
rated as such. Also, as noted, they typically run for short
durations.

The data were posted for all to have.

Thanks!

Take care,
DBN

Michael Taglieri <miket--nyc@...> wrote:
My copy isn't handy so I can't confirm this, but I think

there's a

section on electric motors and their acceptable temperature rise in
Machinery's Handbook.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

The belts were removed but the

stock pulley was left on. The motor had unobstructed airflow and
should be considered "new." The ambient temp was 61.2F (16.2C).

05 min. – 12.1F (6.7C) rise
10 min. – 25.0F (13.9C)
15 min. – 35.6F (19.8C)
20 min. – 42.4F (23.6C)
30 min. – 53.0F (29.4C)
40 min. – 58.9F (32.7C)
50 min. – 62.2F (34.6C)
60 min. – 64.3F (35.7C)

The probe was located on the upper part of the

motor

housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes – temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes – 49.7F;
46 minutes – 58.1F;
63 minutes – 63F – shut-down motor
66 minutes – 65.7F

---------------------------------
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OK, Chris, go for it. If you want to look at one first, I'm in South Manchester. I can let you have pics of one or two mods I've made - if you want them, email me direct, because they won't be of sufficient general interest to post among the photos on here. Oh, and if you get one with an imperial leadscrew, I can let you have set-ups for the supplied gears which will screwcut more metric threads, and with more accuracy, than the manufacturer's suggestions, and cut BA pitches too, if required.
Andy

mozziesplat <katiechris4evr@...> wrote:
Hi Andy had a look on the Warco website and the wm180 looks good
value considering the standard accessories you get with it, plus
also it comes with tapered roller bearings in the headstock spindle
wich from what I can gather is worth having...
Chris..

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Hello Chris and Ian,
Don't worry about the name, Ian - I'll answer to anything.
My "Warco WM180" is 7x 12, and shares a lot of features (saddle

and everything above it) with a regular mini-lathe. It's twice as
heavy, though - turns the scales at 11 stones (for US readers, there
are 14 lbs to a stone, and for Aussies and those influenced by
Napoleon it's 70kg). So, though the bed is more massive, it isn't
exactly portable. From what I read in this group, it shares some of
the features - or rather lack of them - of 8 x and 9 x machines.
Notably, there's no tumbler reverse, but I'm working on that with
some components which arrived with commendable speed from both LMS
and ArcEuroTrade (LMS got them across the pond within 7 days, and
AET got them to me by post 20 hours after my order)).

So, Chris, unless like me you are retired and can spend time on

accessorising machine tools, I reckon you might be better getting a
standard mini-lathe. I get the feeling that there are fewer
complaints about the Sieg machines bought in the UK from people like
Chester than about those bought in the US, but I may be wrong.

Andy

steam4ian <fosterscons@...> wrote:
G'day Chris.
CORRECTION. The guy was Andy Franks not Alan. My apologies Andy.
One good trun deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@>
wrote:

G'day Chris.
Have a look at the machines close-up if you can. A guy named

Alan

from the UK sent me a picture of his lathe, I think it was a

Chester,

and it had some significant improvements over the "standard"

Sieg.

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It sounds like I should probably just save them up for the salvage yard
after all.

Thanks for the info!
Mike

Rutland Tool & Supply and Wholesale Tool are two other good internet tool stores.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas

Hi Mike,

I am into aluminium casting. The problems with swarf and chips is
that they high a high surface area and when you try to melt them you
end up with a lot of dross (oxide) and very little metal.
Industrially they would compact the chips and melt under an inert
atmosphere to avoid these problems. The same goes for drinks cans.
The metal is so thin that you end up with musch dross and very little
usable metal.
There are many aluminium alloys and they are compatible. However,
most turning alloys are not ideal for casting. It can be done but it
is much easier to cast proper casting alloys that contain a high
silicon content to give good fluidity. Drink cans are nearly pure
aluminium and the metal is very soft when cast.
Iron is small quantities is not too much of a problem although if too
much gets into the alloy it forms hard intermetallics that make the
metal brittle and very wearing on lathe tools. Many amateurs melt
aluminium in mild steel crucibles and get good results.

If you want to separate aluminium and steel try using a magnet. Free
machining steel make small chips that is easy to separate with a
magnet but once you get curly swarf mixed it is almost impossible to
separate different types easily.

I do not think there is so much of a problem regarding hazardous
fumes in melting aluminium swarf as long as you don't contaminate it
with plastic swarf. PTFE swarf produces highly toxic decomposition
products, PVC is also hazardous.

I hope this is useful

Mike
Kingsley, UK

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote:

Ok, I finally got a lathe, & I'm finally starting to make some

chips (and

that's about it, for now at least!). So once I make the chips, what

do I do

with them? For the amount I'll be producing, it seems like more

bother then

it's worth to haul them to the recycler & get pennies on the dollar

back

from what I paid for it. Since I mostly work with Aluminum, I'm

thinking a

better use would be to save them to trying casting at some point

down the

road. I'm assuming that I don't need to worry to much about mixing

various

aluminum alloys, but do I need to be concerned about the occasional

steel or

other metal chips? I can try to separate them, but I'm sure at

least a few

will get into the aluminum bin. Will they cause problems? How about

the

lubricants & coolants? I'm guessing that they'll just burn off, but

I'm not

certain. Obviously I'll be doing the casting outside, so I'm not

terribly

concerned about burning the small amounts of chemicals that would be
present. Should I be?

Thanks!
Mike


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

ENCO is a good tool store ,they have many all steel tools at low prices. Good Luck ,Fred

harleyknall <knall@...> wrote: I am doing light gun barrel work, just need to reduce outside
diameter over a 4" area, and thread it over a 1" area.
Its an 8.5" long x 3/4" thick barrel. Sound like this baby will
do the trick?
Also whats a good website to but tooling for it?






---------------------------------
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with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.

They're actually very common in the states now - GMA3 fuses (5x20mm) are the
most commonly used in NEW equipment. (Even the small portion still
manufactured in the US)

Rabid
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"

Ok, I finally got a lathe, & I'm finally starting to make some chips (and
that's about it, for now at least!). So once I make the chips, what do I do
with them? For the amount I'll be producing, it seems like more bother then
it's worth to haul them to the recycler & get pennies on the dollar back
from what I paid for it. Since I mostly work with Aluminum, I'm thinking a
better use would be to save them to trying casting at some point down the
road. I'm assuming that I don't need to worry to much about mixing various
aluminum alloys, but do I need to be concerned about the occasional steel or
other metal chips? I can try to separate them, but I'm sure at least a few
will get into the aluminum bin. Will they cause problems? How about the
lubricants & coolants? I'm guessing that they'll just burn off, but I'm not
certain. Obviously I'll be doing the casting outside, so I'm not terribly
concerned about burning the small amounts of chemicals that would be
present. Should I be?

Thanks!
Mike

Hi Andy had a look on the Warco website and the wm180 looks good
value considering the standard accessories you get with it, plus
also it comes with tapered roller bearings in the headstock spindle
wich from what I can gather is worth having...
Chris..

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Hello Chris and Ian,
Don't worry about the name, Ian - I'll answer to anything.
My "Warco WM180" is 7x 12, and shares a lot of features (saddle

and everything above it) with a regular mini-lathe. It's twice as
heavy, though - turns the scales at 11 stones (for US readers, there
are 14 lbs to a stone, and for Aussies and those influenced by
Napoleon it's 70kg). So, though the bed is more massive, it isn't
exactly portable. From what I read in this group, it shares some of
the features - or rather lack of them - of 8 x and 9 x machines.
Notably, there's no tumbler reverse, but I'm working on that with
some components which arrived with commendable speed from both LMS
and ArcEuroTrade (LMS got them across the pond within 7 days, and
AET got them to me by post 20 hours after my order)).

So, Chris, unless like me you are retired and can spend time on

accessorising machine tools, I reckon you might be better getting a
standard mini-lathe. I get the feeling that there are fewer
complaints about the Sieg machines bought in the UK from people like
Chester than about those bought in the US, but I may be wrong.

Andy

steam4ian <fosterscons@...> wrote:
G'day Chris.
CORRECTION. The guy was Andy Franks not Alan. My apologies Andy.
One good trun deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@>
wrote:

G'day Chris.
Have a look at the machines close-up if you can. A guy named

Alan

from the UK sent me a picture of his lathe, I think it was a

Chester,

and it had some significant improvements over the "standard"

Sieg.

---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing.

Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and
win prizes.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You may be limited by the center hole in the stock 3" chuck; if so,
changing to a 4" chuck will solve the problem. The spindle claims to
have a 20 mm bore - it's reamable to 13/16" for a little more room.
There's a 13/16" reamer floating around, Chris at LMS provides adult
supervision to keep it moving.

LMS is a good source of tooling:



There's also a pretty comprehensive vendor list at mini-lathe.com; most
of the suppliers are happy to provide free catalogs,



Roy

I am doing light gun barrel work, just need to reduce outside
diameter over a 4" area, and thread it over a 1" area.
Its an 8.5" long x 3/4" thick barrel. Sound like this baby will
do the trick?
Also whats a good website to but tooling for it?

Got it off.

The trick for me, at least, was to use two large flat blade
screwdrivers with even pressure to both sides of the handle. Using
just one, or with uneven pressure, it would bind and could not be removed.

Here are photos of the new machine:



Thanks!
Kevin

Snips and replies to the various General Information thread replies. Comments embedded in senders text.

Thanks for that, I now know what to look for in my next lathe!

Your welcome

Regarding CNC, I would have thought that would be more fussy with set up than normal where the operator can compensate.

Oh, they are but they use different technology like crossed roller guides instead of doves and ways thus no info on the topic.

Keep up the ferreting.

Will do.

Regards,
Ian

Your descriptions would certainly fit with my experience..... Could really take some metal off with those machines, miss them now that......

It's about leverage and controling that leverage, right?

Gordon

Useful comments re saddle adjustment priorities. Thanks. Re the bed width, I can read that 2 ways. It either puts the Sieg 7x just on the
junk side of "tool room" and close enough to be worth investing some effort into. Or it puts the Sieg 7x just a whisker short of "heavy duty". Well, it ain't the latter!

Seig center height 3.5", bed width 3.25", closer to the junk room (hobby class:-) It's still workable, it just isn't going to take materail the same way a more robust designs would. My contention all along has been " work inside the design". Have to know what you have to do that, right?

John

The Myford ML7 is 3.5"centre height, not including the gap, which is~5". The bed is 4.5 inches across, but the spindle is not centred to this, it is 2.5" back from the front shear. Would this be to give akind of 'effective' ratio to make it more capable when using the fullcapacity of the face plate or 4 jaw, both of which sit in the gap?

Absolutely. Add's about a half inch to the swing capacity. Consider what that means though to work from behind the work piece and how it affects the saddle load.

Someone asked me when I first started the Project Lathe if I was planning on adding a "real" back gear. Seemed useful but pain staking at the time but I may just have to whittle out a new head stock anyway. Glad you posted as I was considering lowering the center height a quarter then using Chris's shaved tool slide to regain the difference. This whould also reduce the swing over the saddle dimension a like amount though. Now moving the center back just may have more merrit and make it worth the trouble. If I go that far a back gear becomes more plausible doesn't it?

Stu G

G'day DBN & Mike.
The temperatures you have recorded do not seem unduely high. You need
to remember that the insulation is most likely rated for 90 degC.
(161 degF) temperture rise, this is typical of modern electrical
materials.
First question. Does the motor pass the smell test? There may be a
sweet oily solvent smell, thats normal, but an acidic or acrid smell
indicates trouble.
Question 2: Do the terminals get hotter than the rating of the
connecting cable insulation? The connecting cables with PVC
insulation generally have a temperature rating of at least 75 deg.C.
After extended running and with the motor disconnected at the wall
outlet, measure the terminal temperature (you can get temperature
marker crayons but a finger will do). Note, higher temperature rated
cables are often used for machinery wiring, often rated to 110 deg.C;
this grade of wire is used in fluorescent luminaires.

The only reliable winding temperature measurement is to measure the
winding resistances when cold and hot and compute the temperature
difference. Handbook type advice would generally assume this means of
measurement.

I would suggest that if the motor does not smell bad, the terminal
temperature is less then the connecting cables insulation temperature
limits and the surface temperature of the motor case does not create
a fire hazard then all is well.

Always keep flammable materials, dusts and fluff away from the motor
and ensure the air flow is unrestricted. Then if the motor does give
up you only have to replace the motor not your house. This is good
advice for any electrical equipment!!

One good turn deserves another
Regards,
Ian


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi Mike,

I have a handbook and will look at it later.

I would gather it has more to do with the classification of the

motor. I've worked on a few motors and drive systems over the last
40 years or so and these run a tad hot. Of course, they "might" be
rated as such. Also, as noted, they typically run for short
durations.

The data were posted for all to have.

Thanks!

Take care,
DBN

Michael Taglieri <miket--nyc@...> wrote:
My copy isn't handy so I can't confirm this, but I think

there's a

section on electric motors and their acceptable temperature rise in
Machinery's Handbook.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

The belts were removed but the

stock pulley was left on. The motor had unobstructed airflow and
should be considered "new." The ambient temp was 61.2F (16.2C).

05 min. – 12.1F (6.7C) rise
10 min. – 25.0F (13.9C)
15 min. – 35.6F (19.8C)
20 min. – 42.4F (23.6C)
30 min. – 53.0F (29.4C)
40 min. – 58.9F (32.7C)
50 min. – 62.2F (34.6C)
60 min. – 64.3F (35.7C)

The probe was located on the upper part of the

motor

housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes – temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes – 49.7F;
46 minutes – 58.1F;
63 minutes – 63F – shut-down motor
66 minutes – 65.7F

G'day Roy,Andy & Johns.
I see your point about irrational ratios for the LS to work piece
thread pitches. Getting lining up with some would be like winning
Lotto twice.
However for integer and fractional relationships the lining up will
occur with reasonable regularity, otherwise the thread chasing dial
wouldn't work either.
My goals in this discussion were to flush out alternate ways of
ensuring repeatable tool to work piece synchronisation perhaps
eliminating the thread chasing dial and, if posible, to save the
driving backwards for imperial/metric conversions. It seems like the
latter is unlikely to be acheived.
I may get time this weekend to carve up the thread on some cheap
hardware store bolts.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

By the time you get spindle & LS at exactly the right place you'll
have spent far more time than if you simply reversed with the LS
engaged. Cutting integer imperial threads with an imperial LS

there

are lots of positions where things line up.

Hi Mike,

I have a handbook and will look at it later.

I would gather it has more to do with the classification of the motor. I've worked on a few motors and drive systems over the last 40 years or so and these run a tad hot. Of course, they "might" be rated as such. Also, as noted, they typically run for short durations.

The data were posted for all to have.

Thanks!

Take care,
DBN

Michael Taglieri <miket--nyc@...> wrote:
My copy isn't handy so I can't confirm this, but I think there's a
section on electric motors and their acceptable temperature rise in
Machinery's Handbook.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

On Sat, 10 Mar 2007 09:22:51 -0800 (PST) Druid Noibn
<druid_noibn@...> writes:

Hi All,

I thought it might be better to continue the thread - I do not
expect much will be said on this item.

I posted the temp rise on the HF 8x12-14 stock lathe motor with
pulleys and gears engaged but no cutting. The next step was to see
what the unloaded temp rise was. The belts were removed but the
stock pulley was left on. The motor had unobstructed airflow and
should be considered “new.” The ambient temp was 61.2F (16.2C).

05 min. – 12.1F (6.7C) rise
10 min. – 25.0F (13.9C)
15 min. – 35.6F (19.8C)
20 min. – 42.4F (23.6C)
30 min. – 53.0F (29.4C)
40 min. – 58.9F (32.7C)
50 min. – 62.2F (34.6C)
60 min. – 64.3F (35.7C)

This listing, and the one previously posted, indicate that the
motor runs a tad on the hot side although within typical
specifications (I don’t have the data sheet on the motor). The
tests were run on a continuously running motor which might be a
little unusual for most applications.

Again, this is just a little information for those who might wish
it.

Take care,
DBN


Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote:

Hi Ed,

Point well taken.

I routinely use the hand-contact and counting rule and surprisingly
it is rather accurate. However, without doubt, the motor is running
on the hot side - of course, I am spolied by U.S. built motors,
transformers, etc... When I worked for a German-based company some
years ago, we replaced transformers and power diodes as often as one
replaced fuses. Several reported that the ratings placed on the
motors from China are at best suspicious or as some stated,
pararphrased, China must have small horses. Nonetheless, if time
permits, I'll run an unloaded test this weekend.

Thanks,
DBN

Ed Boysun <boysungran@...> wrote:

That really doesn't seem all that far out of line, to me. When being
run
continously, most motors will be nearly hot to the touch. Generally,
if
you can place your hand on them and count to 2, without being
burned,
nothing will be hurt in the motor. I guess I should really check
some of
my larger ones with an IR temp gun after they have run for a couple
hours, but I'd be surprised if they didn't run at least that warm.

Just looked at the plate on one of my water pump motors. That one
is
thermally protected for 40C above ambient.

Ed B
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "druid_noibn"
<druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi All,

For those who might find it "interesting" – I noticed the motor

of

the HF 8x12-14 was a tad warm and thought a check was in order.

With a motor and ambient temp of 65F the lathe was turned on – no
metal turning. The probe was located on the upper part of the

motor

housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes – temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes – 49.7F;
46 minutes – 58.1F;
63 minutes – 63F – shut-down motor
66 minutes – 65.7F

I didn't run the motor unloaded yet.

So the motor runs hot - an auxiliary fan might be in order.

Take care,
DBN

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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:

Loosely, machines with beds wider than center height are considered
"heavy duty" lathes. Those whose beds equal center height are
considered
"tool room" and those whose beds are narrower than the center height
and
considered junk (hobby?). Seig 7" machines are about 3.25" across the
bed, depends where you measure ;(

The Myford ML7 is 3.5"centre height, not including the gap, which is
~5". The bed is 4.5 inches across, but the spindle is not centred to
this, it is 2.5" back from the front shear. Would this be to give a
kind of 'effective' ratio to make it more capable when using the full
capacity of the face plate or 4 jaw, both of which sit in the gap?

Stu G