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I use brass strips from the local hobby shop. They come in 12" length, different thickness and widths. I cut them to size and form them around the jaws like a second skin. That way I don't need four hands to tighten the material in the chuck.

If you heat the brass with a propane torch until red then quench it in water, it will anneal (soften) it and it is real easy to form.

Paul, Central OR


Smurf707 wrote:

Sean, You can find a lot of info that may answer your
questions here:



Frank Hoose


--- Smurf707 <smurf707@...> wrote:

Hello I am an 18 yeard old machinist, I have about
3.5 years as a
machinist/machinist in training. I am currently
attending college
for Precision Machnining Technology. I am used to
big old lathes and
mills, but I absolutely love machining and they are
to big and bulky
for my space, I have chosen on the smaller version,
possible the
Homier 7x12 because its $299 But what is this I
hear about the
7x14 micro mark, how much is it, which would be a
better buy? Thanks

Sean



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Here it is:



Paul, Central OR


Jerry Smith wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:
Unfortunately, in the UK, Alum is no

longer readily obtainable "at the local pharmacist.

You might try a taxidermist shop or a garden shop, it has uses in
both activities. I do not know from personal knowledge if potassium
alum or aluminum sulfate give identical results. Seems to me that
both are called alum. If it will save your castings it might be
worth the time to do some web searching.

Al Day

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi Mike,
In each case the drill is broken off below the surface and they are
2mm drills, so are quite small. I tried to do the Alum method
advised by an earlier reply. Unfortunately, in the UK, Alum is no
longer readily obtainable "at the local pharmacist". In fact (snip)

Yup...2mm is a little tough to work around. It reminds me though
Capt. Ken that recently I saw an article on an extremely simple EDM
that was just a vertical slide that lowered an electrode into a bowl
of water. The power was from the mains with two light bulbs on each
phase. The examples showed nice clean small cuts using wire rod with
brazed shapes as electrodes. I've surfed by other edm projects on
the net. If you'd like I'll try to look it up and scan it....It was
in Home Shop Machinist some months ago I think.

I have to confess Ken, I don't have a 7 x 12 but I've had a 7 x 10
for years. Although I'm in Canada I ordered the repair kit from
Little Machine Shop and was more than pleased. It has replacements
for all the driving gears, new driver transistors and belts and cross
slide nut. The price is so low it may be worthwhile ordering from
them and paying the shipping. I'm not aware of any similar supplier
on your side.

My preferance on the nut would be to buy a 10 x 1 mm LH tap and make
my own but then I've never had the trouble.

Give me email off line if you need the scans.

Mike

Hi,
Does "Chris's terrific Little Machine Shop" have a website, Google
can't find the URL.

Thanks,

Jerry

Hi Mike,
In each case the drill is broken off below the surface and they are
2mm drills, so are quite small. I tried to do the Alum method
advised by an earlier reply. Unfortunately, in the UK, Alum is no
longer readily obtainable "at the local pharmacist". In fact "Boots" -
the countries biggest chemist - is 'out of stock'. I was able to
find an industrial supplier who eventually came back and said they
would supply a minimum of 1Kilo (2.25 lbs) for ?50 ($75) which seems
a bit drastic for the sake of three small broken bits!

My 2nd question is this. There is Chris's terrific 'Little Machine
Shop' in the US - is there anyone in the UK who keeps a similar
supply of 7x12 parts? Chronos have a few items that fit our machines
but nobody, on line, seems to supply a full range of spare parts??
Machine Mart stock parts but you can't order them on line and they
don't keep them 'in store'.

I have a broken cross slide nut (:o( and think while I am it I will
get a few spares of other things (belts fuses gib strips etc) as they
normally go when you need them most.
Regards
Ken


--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "walsh2002bc" <me.walsh@s...> wrote:

Hi Ken:

I hate it when that happens...I find that deeper holes in aluminum
need to be cleaned out more so they won't bind 'cause it's gummy
stuff. Try putting the workpiece in a vise and tapping the bit

with

a hammer and small drift. Sometimes just working it in different
directions will loosen it off.

mike




--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While

drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush

so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out

(if

I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Cardbaord I have used, although that may not have a whole lot of
precision when u do that so pop cans or some thing along those lines
sounds like the best best.

Sean

Hello I am an 18 yeard old machinist, I have about 3.5 years as a
machinist/machinist in training. I am currently attending college
for Precision Machnining Technology. I am used to big old lathes and
mills, but I absolutely love machining and they are to big and bulky
for my space, I have chosen on the smaller version, possible the
Homier 7x12 because its $299 But what is this I hear about the
7x14 micro mark, how much is it, which would be a better buy? Thanks

Sean

From what I know, they are the same. Both are interchangeable with
each other pretty much, maybe 1 has a different coating?

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Brice D. Hornback" <bdh@c...> wrote:

LMS has several different types of turning tools that take the

indexable

inserts. My question is, what's the difference between these two

types of

inserts?

TCMM inserts
TCMT Inserts

Thanks,
Brice

Hi Ken:

I hate it when that happens...I find that deeper holes in aluminum
need to be cleaned out more so they won't bind 'cause it's gummy
stuff. Try putting the workpiece in a vise and tapping the bit with
a hammer and small drift. Sometimes just working it in different
directions will loosen it off.

mike




--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush so
there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out (if

I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

try filling the hole with penetrating oil and leaving it to soak. they may
pull out with pliers
DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@...
SAM ZERO

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush so
there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out (if

I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Check this link,

Al

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

Someone on the 7X10 minilathe group gave a reference to a site where
it was stated that you can put an aluminum part in simmering water
that is saturated with alum, (of the kind used for making pickles,
(potassium alum?)), and the tap will begin to bubble a bit, when the
bubbling stops, the tap is dissolved.

You might want to ask this same question there and get the referenced
site.



Al

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling on
my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush so
there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out (if I
can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

It is the "old style" with the oil ports and way wipers on the carriage.
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Is it the "old style" or "new style" Homier?


--- ntdefeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Good Morning All:

After much checking and testing of my Homier
7x12 lathe, I
removed the hs assembly, and found the cause of the
alignment
problem. The locating vee way was gouged out during
the machining
process, causing the spindle to be out of alignment
with the bed
assembly. Back to front of the spindle measured a
difference of
0.004" difference, and the difference in height
between the hs and ts
assembly showed the hs to be 0.125" low. A new hs
casting is on
order, and hopefully, this will correct the
alignment problems. I am
in the process of replacing the saddle gibs with new
ones of brass
while waiting for the hs casting,and giving
everything a good once
over. Other than this setback, I believe these
lathes to be a good
value for the money, and appear to be quite capable
machines. I want
to thank everyone for all the help in getting to the
root cause of my
problem with this lathe (taper turning), and look
forward to
reporting my progress. Nick


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Is it the "old style" or "new style" Homier?


--- ntdefeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Good Morning All:

After much checking and testing of my Homier
7x12 lathe, I
removed the hs assembly, and found the cause of the
alignment
problem. The locating vee way was gouged out during
the machining
process, causing the spindle to be out of alignment
with the bed
assembly. Back to front of the spindle measured a
difference of
0.004" difference, and the difference in height
between the hs and ts
assembly showed the hs to be 0.125" low. A new hs
casting is on
order, and hopefully, this will correct the
alignment problems. I am
in the process of replacing the saddle gibs with new
ones of brass
while waiting for the hs casting,and giving
everything a good once
over. Other than this setback, I believe these
lathes to be a good
value for the money, and appear to be quite capable
machines. I want
to thank everyone for all the help in getting to the
root cause of my
problem with this lathe (taper turning), and look
forward to
reporting my progress. Nick


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Ah, yes, now I make the connection. :)

--- copascetic1@... wrote:

In a message dated 11/15/2002 4:26:22 AM Atlantic
Standard Time,
fhoose@... writes:

Read your review many time before I purchased my
7X14. I had written to you
quite some time ago how thru the largesse of a
friend of mine I had the
opportunity to "play" with a 9X20 and a 7X10. 9X too
big, too many mods to
bring it up to speed, 7X many features I liked,
variable speed,tumblers,
etc., too small. The 7X14 was just right, reminded
me of a SB I had many
years ago. I am very pleased with the 7X14, just
wanted to know what other
owners may have experienced with it "under fire"


[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]



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Good! When I had described my situation of having to choose between the two
lathes, your comment was, humorously, "What a dilemma!". I was more or less
in limbo not wanting to purchase any accessories not knowing which lathe I
would keep, then the 7X14 came along and that solved my dilemma. It may seem
strange to some that which ever lathe I had kept it would have been at no
cost. However, I found the 7X14 suited my purpose and chose to buy it. Now I
can proceed to purchase the accessories for the 7X14 such as a 4" 4-jaw,
backplate, QCTP, etc. I have a mini-mill and have already purchased from you
the clamp set.