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AAAAK! Thanks for the correction, Dave. YES, the Starrett blades I get ARE bi-metal! Sorry about that! Senior moment... ";-) Big difference in performance and also in longevity. Bi-metal blades are

Would some of you mind telling me your saw blade preferences? Manufacturers but also do you prefer high speed steel or bi-metal, or? And for what uses each? J.Walker Remember, You are unique and

No problemo Jason, Glad to hear you got your saw. Hope everything goes well for you. The welds on 2 of the 3 hinges on 1 leg of my saw were broken apart when I unpacked mine. When you look at yours

Whether Starrett or other brand be sure to get the bi-metal blades, not the carbon blades. Dave Brown Heritage Smithing Green Bay, WI

My own personal choice is Starrett, available online from several sources. These last MUCH longer than the OEM blade.

I was wondering if you could recommend a brand and place to purchase bi-metal blades for my HF saw? The blade that came on it is pretty cheap and I need to replace it to save some time on the projects

BK/Bill, thanks for the info! I picked my saw up yesterday and am hoping to unbox it (and start tweaking it) in the next couple of weeks. Gearbox flush will be on the top of the list! Jason wrote:

I've taken a look at Rangerod and Sparky's gas spring conversions - nice work guys! Looks like the trickiest part is making the socket for the 1/4" pins to slide and lock into. Any chance those pins

If you can find some seamless tube with 1/4 wall that will work. You do want the socket to fit tight on the body of the cylinder. Sparky --- Ken Watts <kmwatts@...> wrote:

Not with out taking everything apart. The lug added to the arm has a 1/4" deep slot milled in it. I machined the sides of the arm to get a clean up 1/4" wide on each side, I also cut the arm off just

Hmmmm I must be missing something all these mills/lathes around here.....:) Ken

I machined my socket out of CR bar stock. Sparky --- ACiDiAC <kmwatts@...> wrote: __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try

Sparky Could you perhaps show us the individual pieces to your setup for the cylinder? Thanks Ken

Sparky and rangerod ok I know I asked this before but what did you use to make the cover that slides over the 1/4 inch pins on the cylinder? A few ideas for this perhaps a chunk of pipe that fits over

Sparky Yup this modification definitely improves the usability of the machine compared to the spring system. Nice job on your modification! I like your rod extension idea, it puts the adjustment knob

I have posted pictures of my adaptation of the hydraulic cylinder. The mod is not complete yet. Still have to make the bushing for the eye end of the rod, and final assemble with locknut ans washers.

Jason, BK is correct. Real easy, with the saw in the horizontal position, just pour in oil until it is about to run out of the box. Appears to take less than a pint...Bill $99.99). off, and edge be It

Hi Jason, I am not Bill, but picked my saw up a little while back (for $99.99). Once you have the saw assembled abd you take the gear box plate off, it will be clear as to how much to fill. The box

How do you get the worm gear and brass gear out? The shaft the worm gear is on has two pressed in ball bearings. I don't see how to get the shaft out so I can knock out the bearings? Help.