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My saw (a Federal) also had a sheet metal stand that had been altered, along with two tilt up wheels.? I hated the stand because it was so low, so I got one of those wheeled carts from HF (not the

My Grizzly saw (G9742) sits on the wheels, (simple plastic critters) and has two rubber feet on the handle end. http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-x-6-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw-w-Swivel-Head/G9742 I’ve

On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an

Ha ha, the siding looks terrible doesn't it?! It needs a good cleaning, but it is so old, I don't know if that would even help. Plus, it is the only covered area close enough to the house to be used

OH come on Sean you gotta bear the burden to get the good. I "think" there is a way but cannot remember how. Ralph 4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

Can somebody tell me how to turn off notifications for this thread?

Actually if the siding is typical of the picture why bother worrying? Ralph jim.klessig@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

You still have other options If you want a nice non staining one, then stainless steel. MUCH more of a bitch to work with than copper. You could also put the copper on standoffs. That should minimize

Good idea to paint. Had ductless AC put in my home and only piping and cable runs available where white. Looked like crap in put on my yellow aluminum sided home. Had the installer drop off sufficient

That solution could be employed with copper also. To: 4x6bandsaw@... Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 12:46 PM Subject: RE: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting ?

Creative Solution Award The picture did not come through for me; however, I do understand your idea. I think I will try bending first, as I think it would look less obtrusive. Thanks, Chip Hopefully

ya might also think about using schedule 80 PVC , the thicker wall will give it a bit more rigidity ??? ??? ??? animal

Would stainless steel be a solution? Aluminum? Another plated metal? If you used a stand-off or spacer the copper wouldn't touch the siding, then no staining. 4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

Search YouTube. Lots of good techniques shown there. Bending pipe with a heat gun does work well but I would not attempt to bend a 90 degree elbow. <--Hopefully my picture comes through. Since this is

Yes with a flame it's easy to scourch it, a heat gun is better. Kinking depends on how far and how sharply you bend it. Put a 5 gallon bucket on a table, warm up 18 inches of pipe, and gently wrap it

The PVC won't kink if I do this? If prone to kinking, would filling with sand first, and then heating and bending prevent kinking? Or would the sand act as a heat sink. I guessing a heat gun would be

If I understand the picture, you need about a 95 to 100 degree bend. With pvc you can heat it up and bend it how you want, then let it cool. 4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

After install, you could paint the PVC to match the siding to make it slightly less conspicuous.

I will not use poly tubing! That is what was originally installed, and why I have to replace it. The poly tubing softens with age and kinks and sags. Both cause the condensate water to back up in the

Copper will stain the siding, use poly tubing and use ss screws and ss brackets to hold the tubing. [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote: