开云体育

The usual blades are .025. If you want a bimetal blade and don't care if it's Starrett or not, Enco has bimetals for $15 ea usually (plus s/h). Grizzly has a slightly better selection of tooth

I need to get a new blade I will get a bimetalic but they come in bothe .020 and .025 thickness which is best and what is each better for. thanks Ed ke6bnl Starrett is what graingers have and I can

Post it on the drillmill group. I believe the moderator there has done some work in that area. Graciously, Jim

I've been wanting to slice off a 1" piece from a 2+", 4.25" diameter piece of Al for some time, but couldn't figure out a way to do so. Finally did this weekend. See the photo "Cutting Narrow Large

Pete Thanks for the info Clint

Hi to all, I finally got my band saw aligned and cutting square. First get a 4 or 6 inch machinist square to properly square the blade to the adjustable fence and milled area or vice versa. I

It takes about 15 minutes to make a very servicable arm lock for the Harbor Freight bandsaw. Last month I mentioned how to do it. The HF cuts fast and very square. Its motor gets hot on a long cut,

Thanks Leo, Will look it up. Cheers, Cletus dswr@... wrote: Off topic, don't think it's too far off! 8-) Have not done any gear cutting myself, but I bought the Gingery series of books on

Off topic, don't think it's too far off! 8-) Have not done any gear cutting myself, but I bought the Gingery series of books on building machines from scrap. In the last book, he describes gear

Yes, I've done some experimenting myself although not as intense as you've done and found that the unit is pretty darned good. I did not buy the machine anticipating precision cuts at all but rather

Got a 3' section of 3/4" drill rod yesterday and decided to do an experiment.... Mounted it in my 4x6 and cut a slice off the end. Deburred the end of the rod (not the drop) and checked it with a

IMHO the Grizzly is a better choice than the HF. The Grizz includes and arm lock for full down and full up position which the HF I looked at doesn't. The arm lock is a nice feature.

Yes, The cast ends that hold the blade rollers. Mine has 1 bolt on each arm that allows the blade to rotate inward and outward on the cutting edge. Adjust the opposite way that it is cutting off.

When you say guide arms, do you mean the arms that hold the roller bearings? If so, mine don't look adjustable. They are cast iron and move up and down, but don't seem to have a rotational

Another thing i found out is the solid vise jaw (the one bolted down) is not machined 90 deg on the bottom side it is a rough casting. I squared mine up on my Grizzly 12" sanding disc. Just thought

Two different saws are out there, one as pictured in the home page with the sheet metal guide arms (the one i pefer) they are mounted on the outside, and the ones with cast iron guide arms they are

If you use the "order from catalog and type in different numbers you should be able to find it a bit cheaper than 169. Wish I'd gotten it for $99 too, though :)

Dear Friends....Would like to thank Clint, Lenord & the Group for the excellent posts concerning the 4x6 Metal Cutting Bandsaws. It appears that I will sometime in the near future purchase the HF.

Proper blade guide alignment, good sharp blade preferrably bimetal 10/14 and proper feedrate. My blade speed is set at the middle pulley position 95% of the time. See the

I sure wouldn't do that - I'm saving my treadmill motors for some thing that needs variable speed. My 4x6 bandsaw is set on the middle step on the pulley, and has always been there. I'm not in a