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Mmmm yours is different from the picture on the manual. They usually do have a date of manufacture and so do the motors, you might look there No leaks, no gasket but it is sealed directly with

Here is what my gearbox looks like: And, the nameplate: I wish they would put the manufacture date on the nameplate.? I have no idea how long these were made.? I'm sure Grizzly would know the date

Sorry didnt answer your Q properly. I don't know what the level would be if the gearbox was horizontal as it so unstable like that. But if you put a piece of dressed 2x4 timber (~3 1/2") under the

That's what you get for trusting the manual! Boy are they useless. Of course that's the reason groups like ours exist. Yours is definitely one of the old ones (manual is dated 2005) and should take

Well John, I decided to follow your sage advise and wash out the grease from my gearbox, replacing it with the Heavyweight Shockproof oil. I will need to order the oil as it seems it is not carried

Ooops... sorry Chris- jv

Nice one Dave! It looks like you need a gas strut to support that lid/saw combo (like from a Hatchback car). They come in all different lengths and poundages from McMaster Carr or similar - jv

Hi Tom Worn blades definitely can 'lead' (as the wood bandsaw people call it), but all the new blades I've ever measured cut in the same direction as the blade body points. Most blades that have been

John: Thanks for readdressing this issue ! Your points all seem well reasoned and I do like the alternate method that you propose.? In fact, while playing with my saw, I was effectively doing just

Hi Tom You're correct that the blade is square to the saw table, even when it's moving in a non-square arc due to the pivot shaft not being parallel to the saw table, but you have forgotten about the

Good Evening, I know it has been a while since addressing this topic, but I just bought a used Grizzly G1010 4x6 and I wanted to align it before starting to use it. I spent a LOT of time reading

Hello, and sorry for revamping this way old thread. I'm in search of some welder plans but it seems the one at http://www.packratworkshop.com/pdf/BandsawBladeWelder2.pdf is not more reachable. Is

Hi Chris Sorry I took so long to reply, been out of the loop just lately. Bill has the right of it, the play in the guides/tensioner guide block gets pulled out when the blade is under tension and the

I have a Grizzly 5 x 6, and with the blade removed, the idler has play all over the place. Pick a axis, it moves in any. It all goes away once you install the blade and tighten it, and has never been

Alrighty then , let me be sure I understand what you think the problem is . If I'm understanding you , the guides that the block slides in/on are loose and sloppy . Draw a line from center of top

Nice job , yer gonna get a whole lot less flexing out of those parts . Thanks for sharing animal

I've had a problem with getting good vertical blade alignment for quite awhile now.? In that, while I can get the blade vertical, it also is displaced.? In other words, it doesn't have just pure

Correction in 1st paragraph: .... not parallel to the blade. [email protected]> wrote:

Hi Mark The human eye is pretty damn good at seeing squareness and parallelicity so I don't doubt that groove in the bracket seat is not parallel to the arm it slides on. I've seen it on ones I've

Hi John, The 40 degree angle is closer to what I measured when I looked at the angle between the blade guide support's square dovetail and its body.? That's part #84 in my Harbor Freight owner's