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That would work well provided the string was positioned centered on the wheels Another problem with my saw was that the blade guides did not have enough adjustment. I milled one of the slots a bit

Hi all It's actually quite astounding that there are so many faults with these saws, and it's not just one brand, it's all of them. If they were making lathes no-one would buy them! Part of the

Hi Joe. I doubt that they're hard chrome plated as this would be a way for them to fail though they could be. Ordinary bearings are just finish ground from some pretty high ally steel which has a lot

Thanks for all the info. I have tried to relube them.? The top(with the blade slot) has a hole for lubrication.? The other side has the plug installed.? I tried to spray some ;ithium grease from a

This is excellent information. I have a new saw (actually over a year old now) with some discrepancy between the ledge of the upper and lower wheels. if I remember right it's about .030" further out

Good to know something worked. Not proven yet that it IS your tracking problem until you try the new blade You said you cut mostly Aluminium. For this there is no point in using a bimetal

Yes, lacutting products is one of the sources I found on Amazon and ebay.? Their bi-metal blades actually are slightly lower priced than Harbor Freight's bi-metal bandsaw blades.? There are a bunch

Check out the guys at lacuttingproducts.com . I've been buying their stuff for a while now , good products at a decent price . Get on their email list for some pretty decent discounts from time to

Today I was cutting a 3.25" diameter piece of aluminum on the bandsaw and keeping a close eye on it, to see if the "bobble" corresponded to the weld on the blade.? I noticed it was getting worse and

Alright now we're getting somewhere.? Duracraft name should have rung some bells, but my hearings not what it was! An early saw for sure, and US made I think? (though US firms were starting to

??? ??? Make your wife fish for breakfast ??? animal

Yours are totally different from mine . Looking at your photos , I suspect the bearing is pressed onto the eccentric . If so , you won't get it off intact . A big c clamp , vise , or press with a

John, It appears the horizontal bearings are cam followers and are not supposed to be taken apart. Not to hard to find for the regular one but the eccentric may be expensive. I hoped to remove the

Terry, I think my saw has "cam followers" for the horizontal bearings.? There is not a clip. They are not too hard to find except for the one with the eccentric. Thanks, Joe

My blade might have upwards of 20 hours on it so a relatively simple thing to do is buy a new one and see how it behaves.? I do see the frame bob up & down but it _appears_ to be associated with the

Yep that iterative approach (loosen adjust re-tighten) is necessary, and yes the spring-bending of the frame can be used to set the tension - but there is the same old problem - you have to know what

John, Following your suggestions, I loosened/removed the blade and zeroed the upper wheel, laying a straight edge across it to monitor the tilt as I adjusted the tracking mechanism.? Then I

Ahh... new information and old assumptions... If this only started when you increased the tension then it could be just a blade tracking problem, though teeth scraping the blade guard means the blade

I've found that until you hit on the answer, increasing information about a problem sometimes leads to increasing confusion as well.? I think I'm in that part of the learning curve right now.? I

Though I don't understand the circumstances properly, it obviously worked for you, Dave Generally, increasing tension makes the blade track away from the rims of both wheels because the tension takes