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Then the bottom wheel is moved in or out on the drive shaft to get it to also track <0.040" from its rim.? You do this by changing the length of the spacer between the bottom wheel and the gearbox out bearing.

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This is excellent information. I have a new saw (actually over a year old now) with some discrepancy between the ledge of the upper and lower wheels. if I remember right it's about .030" further out on the lower wheel and in my opinion it's not enough to worry about. I remember thinking the only way to fix this would be to move a wheel in or out but I wasn't really sure which wheel.?

I have something to add about blade tracking that is worth looking at. When I got my saw it seemed like everything was set up and ready to go so I started using it without making any adjustments. Then I started increasing the weight (it was cutting very slow) and as a result the blade started falling off. Most often this mutilated the blade and made it unusable. After the third blade I realized I needed to take a closer look. I found what I thought was the problem and then confirmed this with other saw manufactures.

First, (as you said John) the blade tracking need to be set with the blade guides removed. Then when the guides are installed they should twist the blade along the center line without deflecting downward or to the left or right. Ideally the bearings in the guide should only contact the back of the blade while cutting although it needs to just barely kiss the bearing all the time. Very slight pressure is also fine.?

The problem on my saw was that the blade guides were deflecting the blade downward nearly 3/8". With the guides set correctly the saw would not cut deep enough. The cover near the top wheel hit the base. Even when I removed blade cover the upper frame hit the switch housing before completing the cut. After doing a little research I realized my saw was defective. I looked at two other older saws that did not have this issue. I suspect this problem is a result of a bad setup at the factory. Maybe the pivot point for the head was not located correctly. In reality the pivot point on my saw needs to be dropped over 1/4".?

I ended up putting a 1/4" steel plate under my vise. This elevating plate raises the stock enough so that the blade can complete the cut without being deflected significantly by the blade guides. Since making this change I can increase the downward pressure to full. Sometimes the saw stalls but the blade never comes off. In fact, I have had the same blade on my saw almost a year now. It has cut a LOT of steel.?

I had a bunch of these elevating plates made (laser cut) and have sold over 60 of them (apparently quite a few saws have this defect). I currently have one plate in stock but if there's enough interest I can have some more made. When the price of steel went nuts I raised the price from $29.50 to $39.50 but honestly it's barely worth my effort. After the cost of steel, laser cutting and shipping I'm about $2 ahead. Let me know if your saw needs this plate. If there is enough interest I'll have more made.?

Mark

https://markq6zlmc.fws.store/Elevating_Plate/p7671236_21023715.aspx