Re: Blade tracking problem
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Good to know something worked. Not proven yet that it IS your tracking problem until you try the new blade You said you cut mostly Aluminium. For this there is no point in using a bimetal blade. Bimetal blades are useful to cut steel on high speed? and at high bow weight where the cutting edge can get hot enough to dull a carbon steel blade but Al conducts heat so fast the edge never gets near the temp needed (5-600F).? ?Quickest and straightest cutting of bulk soft materials like Al is to use a 4 or 6 tpi blade and Carbon steel cuts just as fast as bimetal in soft stuff.? Do your wallet a favour and get a 4tpi blade for the 2"+thickness and an 8 or 10tpi blade for thinner stuff. The normal 10-14 bimetal blade as actually too fine for any aluminium other than thin section.? You never really want more than about 6 teeth in a cut in Al because the swarf sticks in the gullet of smaller teeth and either makes it cut vertically crooked, or jams the blade in the cut (stalling the motor and possibly burning it out) - jv On Wed, 23 Feb 2022, 1:11 pm Mark Kimball, <markkimball51@...> wrote: Today I was cutting a 3.25" diameter piece of aluminum on the bandsaw and keeping a close eye on it, to see if the "bobble" corresponded to the weld on the blade.? I noticed it was getting worse and worse so I turned the saw off immediately after the frame jumped, then examined the blade.? It has a crack extending almost halfway across the blade.? So John's comment was dead-on. |
John Vreede