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I'm not sure how, once you cut the custom angle, you will connect the piping. I don't think it will fit into the cut off elbow very well. An easy way to make an angle other than 90 or 45 degrees with

My mistake, i misread tungsten as tungsten carbide. Tungsten metal seems soft enough, but has a high UTS. I could not say how it would behave 4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

I should have added the following: This will not be used in a pressurized water line. This will be used for an A/C condensate drain line for a split-type indoor unit. No pressure, just draining the

Diamond bandsaw blades for ceramics are commercially available, might be able to get one made to the right length. No idea about feeds speeds and lubricant but im certain a bimetal blade wont work

Hello, Is it possible to cut tungsten rod, say 1/4-inch diameter, on the HF saw with a bi-metal blade? If so, what toothed blade, and which pulley - small, middle, or large? Also, would some sort of

I am looking for ideas on how to hold a 45-degree, 1/2-inch diameter, water pipe fitting for cutting in the middle at a specific angle. This type of fitting has the flaring at both ends for sweating

Hi Jason The pulleys on these saws are not a matched pair, the motor pulley is smaller than the gearbox pulley, and you do have to change the belt tension every time you change gear. The std motor

Thank you

Thanks for the info.? I can buy universal 3 attack pulleys if I know the diameters of the pulley to get the right FPM.? ?Or if someone know the ratio of the warm gear. Thanks for the info.

A quick search indicates motors for these saws run at 1725 RPM (HF, and Grizzly). My Northern tool 4x6 also runs at 1725 RPM. I removed my pulley cover because it rattled. I never get my fingers

The blade thickness should be irrelevant, within limits. You may have to re-adjust the blade guide clearances to accommodate the thicker blade. I cona't help with the pulleys. Richard Marchi 600 Water

Jason, I’m not familiar with either the RF-115 or anything from Grizzly so can’t help with the dimensions you asked about. But for your other questions: The motor pulley should definitely be a

I'm looking at buying a Milwaukee rf-115 that someone disassembled some items.? Most importantly the motor, guard and gear box pulley.? The motor is not original, but everything else seems to be in

Jim, good catch, thank you.

Ken, I am going to have to (partly) disagree with you here. ON the emails I get (which are digests, which I presume is what Charles is getting), those instructions are NOT at the bottom of the emails.

Charles, The instructions are at the bottom of every message (included below) You can either do it via the web and select "individual emails" or send a blank email to

Now have my HF saw brought back from hibernation. How do I get the group to email messages to me as they are posted? Thought there was a feature within the “My Groups” listing which would allow me

Just re-read the post and see a mistake. The gearbox bearings are flush with the outer edges of the casting (its tapered), so you'll have to use a 1/2" drive socket or similar, just a bit smaller than

Hi Michael/Ralph Michael, I understand your concern about the bearing spacing and position but think it’s probably not too much of an issue, as most things can be adjusted. The position of the

" out the back with a brass drift" At least now I have a direction, thanks. Sure would be nice to see a video. Ralph [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote: