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Hi there group, ?I just picked up a nice little super in good shape Grizzly G1010 4x6 from a lady whose husband passed away. ?Got it super cheap. ?He was a wood worker and used it to cut wood only.

Just wanted to say thanks again for all the help. Put on a newish spring and it cuts like a dream!! 3/4" rebar. Just a bit of a burrito at the end. Look ma, no hands!! :) wrote:

Ralph/John, Another excellent bit of information on tension. Thanks for the video and the continued conversation!! Sadly, I'll be on business travel until the weekend. Dang work getting in the way all

Thanks for posting that Ralph. You can always learn from people like him. Tensioning I went down to the workshop after seeing it, and set up a 10-14 bimetal blade with the load cell spliced into it

I like Alex Snodgrass's method of checking blade tension <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU> to say nothing of how he folds the blades. Ralph 4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

Yes the small rule will do nicely, but you need to write the setting down. Spirit marker on the frame somewhere (or whiteboard marker if you can guarantee not to rub it off before you need to know it

JV, A bit more progress today. Added a makeshift tension gauge. Before and after pics attached. Nothing fancy. Just a way to mark the tensioner and return to same relative position. (Simple $5 steel

You're right Jerry, the wider the support for the blade the better. Mine were the other way round, outside roller ok near the back of the blade, but inside roller running almost in the middle of the

I shortened the outer guide a little on mine so it tracks to the top of the blade while the bottom guide is just above the teeth. http://durandinterstellar.com/photos/Bandsaw/Outer_Guide_Moved.JPG --

On 10/14/2018 6:04 AM, Terry Coombs snagone@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote: > > On 10/14/2018 3:22 AM, vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote: >> >> Not going reduce your need to go look

Nice to know you’re making progress. Sorry my answers are a little long, but if you don’t have enough info to understand why things work, you can’t evaluate any how information meaningfully. To

JV, Fantastic feedback. Thank you! Funny how life works. I wouldn't have understood most of your explanation, if I hadn't worked through the challenges first. I greatly appreciate your time and

On 10/14/2018 3:22 AM, vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote: > > Not going reduce your need to go look Terry. The following metric size deep groove ball bearings have been used: > > *Inside

Should have said "Bow weight for 7x12 is 13lb max" Figure on a normal range of 11-13lb. (It's about 8-10lb for 4x6) - jv

Not going reduce your need to go look Terry. The following metric size deep groove ball bearings have been used: Inside Diameter (mm) Outside Diameter (mm) Width (mm) Bearing code Comment 5 16 5 625

Of the top of my head, if it tracks ok but doesn't take downward pressure of cutting, most often the gap between the side roller guide bearings is too large. Couple of schools of thought on this, one

OK this is a long one: There are 3 adjustment that determine whether a blade will track on any bandsaw: 1. Blade tension 2. Driven wheel tilt 3. Drive wheel position on its axle It helps to understand

Welll, made some progress. I've been able to clean most of the moving bits and adjust the saw to the point where the blade runs with out coming off vertically and horizontally. However, as soon as I

Certainly. The upper wheel has the tilt adjustment. Too bolt and bottom in tilt combination then the center for set screw. Additional pics for context. Shaft with dowel is the drive/lower. Shaft with

Great photos, exactly what we need. I didn't see your photos until after my 2nd request. The driven wheel axle tilting mechanism on yours is different to a 4x6. This is the main tracking device so