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Re: Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIf I were doing it, I would have the wheels just clear of the floor, for two reasons.? First, leaving the weight of the saw on the wheels will eventually result in a flat spot on each wheel.? Second, leaving that end of the saw supported by wheels will result in a less stable setup when using the saw.? Generally, most of the weight of the saw is near the back end so near the wheels.? That means that most of the weight of the saw is on the wheels, so it will not be as stable by a good bit.? Leaning against or bumping into the saw will probably cause it to move. ? Robert Downs ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 21:27 To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor? ? On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. ? I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. ? Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue.
? Thanks. Steve |
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Re: Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
Please post some photos.\, I hope to fix mine this fall. ? Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR Political Correctness is a Political Disease. From: "Dave Seiter d.seiter@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: "4x6bandsaw@..." <4x6bandsaw@...> Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 10:16 PM Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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My saw (a Federal) also had a sheet metal stand that had been altered, along with two tilt up wheels.? I hated the stand because it was so low, so I got one of those wheeled carts from HF (not the cheapest one), installed the top shelf upside down, and mounted the saw to it.? I made two cross pieces out of 2" square tubing to stiffen the top of the cart and allow the insertion of a chip tray, and moved the wheels out as far as possible because the cart was a bit top heavy. I was worried that the wheels would make the saw unstable, but it's never been a problem.? I do store tooling in the cart as well, so it actually takes some effort to move.? (having a one car garage EVERYTHING is on wheels!)? Even with all the weight, the wheels have never developed flat spots.? Having the saw at working height is very nice!? I don't think I added a photo of it to the group- I can do so if you like. -Dave From: "steve@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: 4x6bandsaw@... Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 7:27 PM Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue. Anyone with either option have comments about this? Thanks. Steve
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Re: Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
My saw (a Federal) also had a sheet metal stand that had been altered, along with two tilt up wheels.? I hated the stand because it was so low, so I got one of those wheeled carts from HF (not the cheapest one), installed the top shelf upside down, and mounted the saw to it.? I made two cross pieces out of 2" square tubing to stiffen the top of the cart and allow the insertion of a chip tray, and moved the wheels out as far as possible because the cart was a bit top heavy. I was worried that the wheels would make the saw unstable, but it's never been a problem.? I do store tooling in the cart as well, so it actually takes some effort to move.? (having a one car garage EVERYTHING is on wheels!)? Even with all the weight, the wheels have never developed flat spots.? Having the saw at working height is very nice!? I don't think I added a photo of it to the group- I can do so if you like. -Dave From: "steve@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: 4x6bandsaw@... Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 7:27 PM Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue. Anyone with either option have comments about this? Thanks. Steve
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Re: Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMy Grizzly saw (G9742) sits on the wheels, (simple plastic critters) and has two rubber feet on the handle end. ?
? I¡¯ve never had any problem with it moving around. I bought it some 15 years ago, and have used it more than any tool I own. No wheel problems. It¡¯s not an issue. I maneuver it in & out of the shop a lot, as I can¡¯t cut up full length (20-footers) in my shop. It¡¯s quite handy as designed for doing that. If I built a stand for one, I would let it sit on the wheels, just like what I have, with no worries. ? I did build a burn table for my Victor pantograph, that works the same way, and sits on the wheels. When I first built it, I set it up to lift the tires off the ground when parked. I changed that, as it was awkward¡.and heavy, to maneuver. It was easier to maneuver when I modified it to set on the (2) wheels. It weighs about 150 pounds or better, and no flat spots on the tires in 10 plus years, and I used nothing fancy, just solid rubber on steel, with bearings, from the hardware store. They were simply the kind for lawnmowers. ? Bill ? ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2018 7:27 PM To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor? ? ? On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. ? I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. ? Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue.
? Thanks. Steve
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Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue.
Thanks. Steve |
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Ha ha, the siding looks terrible doesn't it?! It needs a good cleaning, but it is so old, I don't know if that would even help. Plus, it is the only covered area close enough to the house to be used as a grilling area, so it is going to get black again with the smoke from cooking.
?<rhulslander@...> wrote : Actually if the siding is typical of the picture why bother worrying? Ralph |
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Ralph Hulslander
OH come on Sean you gotta bear the burden to get the good. I "think" there is a way but cannot remember how. Ralph
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Ralph Hulslander
Actually if the siding is typical of the picture why bother worrying? Ralph On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 11:01 AM 'Jim.Klessig@...' jim.klessig@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý>I did not realize that copper tubing would stain the siding. > I will have to return all of the copper pieces already purchased and select the appropriate PVC style pieces.
>As I stated earlier, I thought the aesthetics of the copper would appear nicer than the PVC. I guess I don't have a choice now. You still have other options If you want a nice non staining one, then stainless steel.? MUCH more of a bitch to work with than copper.
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You could also put the copper on standoffs.? That should minimize any staining.
R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer |
Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV jim.klessig@..., jim_klessig@... 1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA | Cell (707) 497-9611 | eFax 614-410-0653 ?
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Good idea to paint.? Had ductless AC put in my home and only piping and cable runs available where white.? Looked like crap in put on my yellow aluminum sided home.? Had the installer drop off sufficient pieces well before job.? Had custom quart of paint mixed by local paint store at an exorbitant price.? Big box might have been able to do it cheaper.? Lowes and HD can now custom mix based on color swatch.? Anyway painted to match siding the PVC channels, which are much larger than PVC drain line would be are almost invisible.? Painted PVC should be cheaper, easier to work with than copper tubing or pipe and last for ever.? Good luck on however you go.? HH |
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
That solution could be employed with copper also. From: "hamholfarms@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: 4x6bandsaw@... Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 12:46 PM Subject: RE: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
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Creative Solution Award??  The picture did not come through for me; however, I do understand your idea. I think I will try bending first, as I think it would look less obtrusive.? Thanks, Chip
Hopefully my picture comes through. ? Since this is a low pressure application, I wonder if you could use a 2¡± end cap. Drill a radially hole that is a tight fit to the pipe in the cap. Then drill the second hole at your desired angle. Use PVC cement to secure the pipes in the cap. Then use a short section of pipe and a second cap to seal it up. ? ? Rick ? ? ? ? ? ? ? |
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Creative Solution Award??
The picture did not come through for me; however, I do understand your idea. I think I will try bending first, as I think it would look less obtrusive.? Thanks, Chip Hopefully my picture comes through. ? Since this is a low pressure application, I wonder if you could use a 2¡± end cap. Drill a radially hole that is a tight fit to the pipe in the cap. Then drill the second hole at your desired angle. Use PVC cement to secure the pipes in the cap. Then use a short section of pipe and a second cap to seal it up. ? ? Rick ? ? ? ? ? ? ? |
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý??? ??? ya might also think about using schedule 80 PVC , the
thicker wall will give it a bit more rigidity On 8/16/2018 4:54 AM, Joe Blount
joe.blount@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Would stainless steel be a solution? Aluminum? Another plated metal? If you used a stand-off or spacer the copper wouldn't touch the siding, then no staining. On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 4:47 AM, hamholfarms@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýSearch YouTube. Lots of good techniques shown there. ? Bending pipe with a heat gun does work well but I would not attempt to bend a 90 degree elbow. ?Hopefully my picture comes through. ? Since this is a low pressure application, I wonder if you could use a 2¡± end cap. Drill a radially hole that is a tight fit to the pipe in the cap. Then drill the second hole at your desired angle. Use PVC cement to secure the pipes in the cap. Then use a short section of pipe and a second cap to seal it up. ? ? Rick ? ? ? ? ? ? ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 5:49 AM To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting ?
If I understand the picture, you need about a 95 to 100 degree bend.? With pvc you can heat it up and bend it how you want, then let it cool.??
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Yes with a flame it's easy to scourch it, a heat gun is better.? Kinking depends on how far and how sharply you bend it.? Put a 5 gallon bucket on a table, warm up 18 inches of pipe, and gently wrap it around the bucket.? That will give you a nice gentle curve.? Each time you try, it will cost you $2?and 5 minutes.? I think you'll get the hang of it quickly, and have something you're happy with much quicker and cheaper than the other options.
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
The PVC won't kink if I do this? If prone to kinking, would filling with sand first, and then heating and bending prevent kinking? Or would the sand act as a heat sink. I guessing a heat gun would be best as apposed to open flame.
<joe.blount@...> wrote : If I understand the picture, you need about a 95 to 100 degree bend.? With pvc you can heat it up and bend it how you want, then let it cool.?? |
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
If I understand the picture, you need about a 95 to 100 degree bend.? With pvc you can heat it up and bend it how you want, then let it cool.??
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