|
Re: Upgrading the group, or... - Was: Re: Uploading Photos and Files to [email protected].
It's currently $200/year, or $20/month (comes to $240/year). Things like that happen when you suddenly need a bunch of server space, as Mark did when a bunch of folks decide they all need to move at once. Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, December 17, 2020, 08:54:34 AM CST, Ken Allio <alliok@...> wrote:
You have to select the poll from the blue box at the top.? prepayment is not an option, the cost will go up over time. Last year it started at 110, then went up as io got really busy.? Ken |
|
Re: Upgrading the group, or... - Was: Re: Uploading Photos and Files to [email protected].
It sent out a message about the poll with a link to the poll a couple days ago, and you can look at the messages on the group site, and click on the first message, which also has the link. Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, December 17, 2020, 06:57:25 AM CST, Dallas <dallas@...> wrote:
I don’t see the poll either, I see poll in the menu but that is to create a new poll.? I will contribute a reasonable amount too. ?What cost are you looking at? Dallas |
|
Re: Upgrading the group, or... - Was: Re: Uploading Photos and Files to [email protected].
Just in case the Poll email doesn't display to everyone, I've asked everyone who participates in the group to take the poll. So far, only 32 people have done so. That is less than 1% of the members registered. I've also set the size of photos that can be uploaded or attached to be resized to 1024x1024 pixels. That is probably not going to be very satisfactory for my crappy old eyes, anymore. Especially on my phone. I hope it helps the rest of you.
Bill in OKC |
|
Re: What Should We Do About Group Storage?
#poll-notice
Well, we've had 32 people including myself take the poll. Less than 1% of the group. I thank those of you who took the time to vote, even if you don't want to contribute. I've looked at the photos, and I'm not seeing much of anything I think should not be preserved. IIRC, we have over 4300 members. If you lurk, or participate, but have not yet taken the poll, would you please do so??
I cannot do this by myself. Joe cannot do it by himself. We need some help here, folks! And if you have photos in an album that you don't think we need on the group anymore, would you please remove them? If you cannot get them to go, tell me about in a private email and I'll try to do it for you. You can email me at wmrmeyers (at) sbcglobal (dot) net or (at) yahoo (dot) com Bill in OKC |
|
Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
Staggered guide rollers are not a new idea, several of the old-time (80's or 90's?) 4x6's had it as a feature (Ridgid I think was one brand (as in the pipe wrenches).
I came at it from my obsession with square cutting.? You get best blade support and hence most accurate cutting on a normal saw with zero clearance between the rollers and the blade.? But the bearings just destroy themselves in short order because of swarf rolling through the zero gap, putting huge load spikes into them. So I made completely new guide assemblies and drilled the guide brackets (that the rollers attach to) so the rollers are only 0.022"? apart (in line with the blade).? Both rollers are on concentric mounts, so there is no way to adjust them. The blade 'snakes' the extra 0.003" and is very rigidly held and absolutely square to the brackets.? Makes the blade a bit harder to put on as there are no pinch-rollers to hold it any more, but its ok. Finished making them a month or 2 back and haven't evaluated them fully yet, but early indications are good.?? I've not investigated it, but I think you'd be able to jigger the standard guide brackets by filling in the hole that mounts the outside side guide roller, by Loctiting?a bit of studding in place, or a rod in if its not threaded, and then redrilling, so the bearing mount is 4-6mm higher on the upper guide and same amount lower on the lower guide.? It doesn't need much.? Its nice to have removed an adjustment point and improved rigidity, plus the side guide rollers should last indefinitely - jv |
|
Re: Entire head coming down at an angle?
I just filed the old shaft.? Mark's lathe method is for those that have one.
I thought you said you needed to put shim under the RHS (next to the blade). If that is the case you file or turn off the shaft on the RHS, because you are lowering the shaft and so eliminating the need for shim.?? If you needed 0.033" of shim then one jaw is moved only 0.033", but the Total Indicated Runout will be 0.066".? Be careful when turning and approach the amount you think you need to take off in several bites, a series of "80% of remaining amount" is about right.? Its easy to replace the shaft, try out and confirm the improved squareness.? It's hard to put back metal if you've turned off too much! - jv |
|
Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
Hi Dave
I liked the bladed scraper best and first used it to stop buildup of aluminium on the blade when I ran ~7thou guide roller clearance, since buildup on the blade affects the slant of the blade between the side guide rollers and thus squareness.
Then I realised with any sort of blade scraper you can run zero clearance on the side guide rollers, since the swarf running between the blade and rollers was what was destroying them and made us go to 7thou clearance in the first place and so I made the UHMWPE version.
Now I've made side guide rollers that sit with one ~1/4" higher or lower than the other and can run 'negative' clearance (less than 0.025") and the blade 'snakes' between the rollers and swarf has no effect on longevity of the guide bearings. .
However you have to completely remake the whole guide assembly to do that.
So now I don't need a scraper.?
My advice would be to make a UHMWPE or Acetal (Delrin) scraper and see if it does what you want. If the buildup on the blade is still unacceptable then make the HSS scraper version as its a lot more work. Run zero blade to guide roller clearance i. e. 0.025" between the rollers. Another advantage of the plastic scraper is that you can leave it in place when the vertical table is on, where you have to remove the bladed one.?
The correct cutting fluid for aluminium is kerosene (use deodorised stuff), just enough to wet the teeth not flood, then it evaporates off between uses minimising the mess. Kero will do for copper too. Don't use any cutting fluid for brass (it breaks up like cast iron, doesn't stick in the gullets & conducts heat really well so no need for lube or coolant) - jv |
Bill in OKC too
John Vreede