Re: probably done to death... but going to ask anyway. blade popping off.
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Sorry it was not clear Mark.? Hopefully pictures 2 & 3 below will set that right. The adjustment screw/bolt through the back of the guide bracket casting bears on the 5/16" bolt clamping the guide bracket to the guide arm, so that the bracket can only be moved so far forward and?no more. Then the guide bracket pivots around the clamping bolt to get the twist of the blade?correct. I had to narrow the 'key' too, to get the bracket to twist enough.? Though 3rd picture shows that I did this in the milling machine, it can be done perfectly well with a file - jv
P.S. Pity that Imachinist blades failed you too. Lose one tooth and you'll surely lose more.? For me they cut just as fast as any other, but their dressing of the weld was crap. Since I bought them from Imachinist in China, I went back to them explaining what was wrong but got no answer; I won't use them again. Just reinforces what I said about finding a blade that is?welded properly and you won't have any cutting problems with any brand of varipitch?blade which are always HSS.? Different story with carbon steel blades though, I always opt for a 'name?brand' for carbon steel blades and only use them for cutting soft materials like aluminium, brass, thermoplastic or wood.
On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 12:08 AM, John Vreede wrote:
There is a very simple mod to separate the two adjustments.? Drilling/tapping for a small bolt (3/16"?x 1" (UNF is better than UNC, but there's?no weight on it so either will do) or M5 x25mm) though the picture shows an M6x25 bolt) in the back of the guide bracket as in the photo. This allows the rear support roller to be set independently of the twist of the blade.
I'm not sure i understand this modification. Does the small bolt on the side push against the key to stop movement. Most horizontal saws I've seen have terrible blade guides but these are the worst. I've always thought about redesigning them so that you could et them without twisting the blade and then rotate them into vertical position with the center of the blade as the axis. This is not easy to do but it is doable. Setting the height and horizontal is hard to do accurately. Maybe take another picture of you mod and post it. I actually had to mill the key slot wider (or the key, cant remember) to get the horizontal position correct and then when I got the height correct there was no way to make the saw cut through the stock completely. I sell what I call an elevating plate correct this problem. If anyone is interested, here's a link. If you buy one be sure and print the template to make sure your saw is that same, some are not. John, your last post on type of blades and the welds was interesting. I have been using the Imachinist blade without issue until I tried the variable pitch blade. I've used 2 and both were replaced for missing teeth. I think it was a result of several missing teeth at the weld when installed (or not smoothing ground). In about a week or two I had over an inch of teeth missing.?
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John Vreede
