On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 12:08 AM, John Vreede wrote:
There is a very simple mod to separate the two adjustments.? Drilling/tapping for a small bolt (3/16"?x 1" (UNF is better than UNC, but there's?no weight on it so either will do) or M5 x25mm) though the picture shows an M6x25 bolt) in the back of the guide bracket as in the photo. This allows the rear support roller to be set independently of the twist of the blade.
I'm not sure i understand this modification. Does the small bolt on the side push against the key to stop movement. Most horizontal saws I've seen have terrible blade guides but these are the worst. I've always thought about redesigning them so that you could et them without twisting the blade and then rotate them into vertical position with the center of the blade as the axis. This is not easy to do but it is doable. Setting the height and horizontal is hard to do accurately. Maybe take another picture of you mod and post it. I actually had to mill the key slot wider (or the key, cant remember) to get the horizontal position correct and then when I got the height correct there was no way to make the saw cut through the stock completely. I sell what I call an elevating plate correct this problem. If anyone is interested, here's a link. If you buy one be sure and print the template to make sure your saw is that same, some are not. John, your last post on type of blades and the welds was interesting. I have been using the Imachinist blade without issue until I tried the variable pitch blade. I've used 2 and both were replaced for missing teeth. I think it was a result of several missing teeth at the weld when installed (or not smoothing ground). In about a week or two I had over an inch of teeth missing.?
Mark