Has anyone had success wiring decoders in the newer style of Marklin Diesel engines with the split boards on either side of the motor? The older boards are a ?tile more straight forward as to what to cut out and where to wire. Steam engines are easy to see where the decoder wires go. But the split boards are having me scratch my head a bit following the electric paths. There are also screws in the chassis that I believe are part of the pick up system from the wheels.

There are clearly 2 schools of thought.

Screws are easy and can be removed. However they show and more importantly is securing track at a single point (the screw hole) will often cause a "dip" in the track. Almost unavoidable if you are not securing to a perfectly flat base.

Good on modules, not great in my opinion on Noch layouts and I do have one, and spent a lot of time fiddling with getting the track smooth.

Glue that is flexible will spread the attaching force over a larger area, which avoids dips. It of course is more work to remove, and also you have the issue of securing the track where you want it while the glue cures.

On Noch layouts I prefer to get the track where I want it with push pins, then glue, then remove pins. Also the foam in the Noch layouts is really not "screw friendly" in my opinion.

Both methods can work, but smooth track without dips is important on these compact layouts.

Greg

The RC02 switch control can be used alone with the A028U wall transformer and the several RC02 can be snapped together while not connected to one of Rokuhan's, train controllers. With just the one wall transformer plugged into power port on one rc02, multiple RC02 can be ganged together. The turnout needs 10 volts DC and control is via two wire control line with reversing polarity.? The wiring inside the turnout is very fine and can easily be burned out if power? is left on The RC02 is built to do the job, when you move the lever it sends a pulse to turnout then goes to off while the lever stays in position showing you the status of the turnout. So the closest toggle switch is? one that is spring return to center off and provides momentary contact only when toggled, but can't show the status of the turnout, any other toggle switch will burn the point motor, you are better off with 2 momentary push buttons
?regards Garth Hamilton

Understood. I am planning on using their switch to control their turnouts; just not sure the best way to power them since this is a suitcase layout and I’m using the Noch controller for the trains.

Thanks

I recommend using Rokuhan’s switch to control their turnouts rather than trying an unproven lash-up. We use these turnouts for the back-of-house passing siding on the modular Nn3 logging layout seen at the NNGC and other train shows and have operated them for probably hundreds of hours with no problems using the Rokuhan switch.
Tom K.


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Tom K.

I am building my first z-scale layout for my son (in a Noch suitcase). ?I am going to use Rokuhan track, and the rokuhan switch/controllers (C002).

If I am NOT using the Rokuhan train controller (going to use the Noch 88166 controller for 2 railway circuits), what's the best way to power the Rokuhan turnouts? ?I see they make a cable (A010) to connect the C002 switches to an "AC power supply"). ?Does this really need to be AC? ?Can I power it off if a wall-wart?

TIA

Glad you are doing family activities.
This is fairly simple to answer, but first,? which one of the Noch framed layouts?
Attaching track: Please, do not use caulking. The Rokuhan (which means:6.5 in Japanese) track has small holes to use for attaching. Frank at Z.Scale.Hobo has tiny 1.4x10mm screws just for this:?https://zscalehobo.com/rokuhan/screws. You don't need every hole screwed down, one per track is fine. This is important as it allows repairing or other changes rather than inaccessible after glued!
Do not solder track. The power required (in electrical terms: current) is so low, you easily run a lot of track with one feeder. However, oxidation can be a problem over time. So use a R001 110mm Straight Track (or 1/2 length R024 or longer R009 220mm piece) with the A029 Y Power cable to distribute power equally. Example: Front and Back or, if double Ovals, 2 in front and 2 in back will be?more than enough.
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Jeff
NorCal Z (Sacramento)
’San Francisco Bay Area Z’
a.k.a. 'The BAZ BoyZ'

开云体育

Michael welcome!

New to z-scale.
I'm building a suitcase layout for my son (I was able to procure a Noch aluminum case), and am planning on using Rokuhan track. ?Two questions:

1) What's the best way to attach the track to the layout (keeping in mind it's a suitcase/portable layout). ?In n-scale I've used latex caulk.
2) What do folks use for track power feeders??
3) Do people solder z-scale track with roadbeds (the idea scares me)

I see that Rokuhan has a feeder cable that fits into their 55mm straight track. ?Are these any good? ?Better options?
For a suitcase layout with Rokuhan track, how often would you place a feeder?

thanks in advance

Aluminum framed or clad instrument cases made of MDF are about 18x13x5 inches. Prices vary but range from $30-50, sometimes less. Harbor freight used to carry them. I have used them for model trains and found them durable and managable.

Ken

There are a lot of ‘brief case’ dimensions but for the larger, longer running, multi track, lesser ‘loop-on-loop; I have only found musical instrument cases, like keyboards and Mixers to match up. Briefcase sized can be found as ‘Poker Chip’ holder/carrier, under ‘Gaming’

Otherwise, you need to work up a wood framed case.
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Jeff
SF Bay Area Z
a.k.a. 'The BAZ BoyZ'

North Country Trains just built a Z scale loop in a suitcase. Maybe look him up on YouTube and ask him which suitcase he used.

Heath

New here.

I want to build-up a z-scale portable layout similar to the ones Noch offers, but without spending their crazy price for my son as he moves on to his next life chapter.

Where can one get cases like the ones Noch uses? I can still find the Rokuhan versions, but their are smaller, and I’d like to both maximize the layout size and curve radius.

Appreciate any pointers to appropriate cases.

Thanks

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Anthony,
Since converting my first Marklin Mini Club steam locomotive to Nn3 in 1972, I have disassembled and re-assembled dozens (if not hundreds) of Z steam locomotives. Removing the driver assembly and gears is not something to be taken lightly, so my first choice for widening the back-to-back would be to press a tapered shim between the back of the wheel and the chassis to lever the driver out a bit while the driver assembly and all gears are still within the chassis.
Tom K.

Such one was the first Z-loco I dismounted... (... yes I know, but I was young... ;-) )

The point is: The four cog-wheels between the coupled axles looks same but are not! Have a look at the exploded-draw () No. 20 on the draw has one cog more (or less, I don't remember exactly) as the other three (No. 19). So if you mixed theat four cog-wheels, you have to count the cogs of this pieces.

This principle is true for other steamers too.

Have fun (and "acrobatic" fingers)
Arnim

Am 01.04.22 um 21:01 schrieb Kian Holstead via groups.io:

I'd stay away from this "fix". Not all loco's need this adjustment.

Recently I took a 2-10-0 apart to clean. I broke both sides of the power pickups...bent too many times. I also couldn't re-assemble the 10 wheels. I couldn't figure out the 1/4 turn offset. Broke 3 cogs (pin that connects the wheels). In the end, I paid top doller for an expert repair person to obtain the part and reassemble. Not opening another loco again! I met my match. It's my favorite steam loco.